THE / J 



TRAVELLER'S GUIDE 



THROUGH THE 



MIDDLE AND NORTHERN STATES, 



AND THE 



PROVINCES OF CANADA. 



BY G. M. DAVISON. 



>ebentl) 25tJftfon. 



Saratoga Springs: 

PUBLISHED BY G. M. DAVISON ; AND BY S. S. & 
W. WOOD, NEW-YORK. 



MDCCCXXXVH. 



\n 



\0b 



Entered according to the act of Congress, in the 
year 1837, by G. M. Davison, in the Clerk's office of 
the District Court of the Northern District of New- 
York. 



7 



/ 



f:: 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Introduction, • 15 

From Augusta, Geo. to Charleston, S. C. 

Augusta— Hamburgh, 19 

From Savannah to Charleston. 

Savannah, 20 

Steam-boat route — table of distances, 21 

Land route — table of distances, id 

Charleston, 22 

Sullivan's Island, 23 

From Charleston to Kew-Yorlc. 

Route b}' water — table of distances, 25 

From Charleston to J^orfolk. 

Table of distances — Santee river, 26 

Georgetown— Wilmington, id 

Newbern — Washington — Plymouth, 27 

Roanoke river — Albemarle Sound, id 

Elizabeth City — Dismal Swamp, 28 

Dismal Swamp canal, id 

Portsmouth— Norfolk, 29 

From J^orfolk to Washington. 

Table of distances, 30 

From J^Torfolk to Baltimore. 

Table of distances — Chesapeake Bay, 31 



" INDEX. 

From JsTorfolk to Richmond. 

Table of distances, 31 

Jamestown, 32 

Williamsburgh— Richmond, . . . „ !!!!*.!.' 34 

Manchester, , ['/ 35 

From Richmond to Monticello. 

Monticello— Grave of Jefferson, 35 

From Monticello to the Warm Sprin ts. 

Warm Springs— iN'atural Bridge, 37 

From Richmond to Washington City. 

Route and table of distances— Fredericksburgh, . . 38 

Mount Vernon, , 39 

Alexandria, , 40 

Washington City, 41 

Georgetown, , , ^ 50 

Chesapeake and Ohio canal, 50 

From Washington to Ballimore. 

Rail road 51 

Baltimore, 52 

Baltimore and Ohio rail road, , , , , 56 

Baltimore and Susquehannah rail road, 58 

From Baltimore to Philadelphia. 

Rail road route by Wilmington, 60 

Steam-boat and rail road route — North Point,. ... 61 

Chesapeake and Delaware canal, 62 

French Town and Newcastle rail road, id 

Newcastle — Philadelphia, , , , 64 

Internal improvements — Union canal, 74 

Pennsylvania canal. 75 

Other canals, 77 



INDEX. lU 

From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh. 

Table of distances— Columbia rail road,. . ....... 79 

Paoli—Dovvningt.own— Lancaster — Columbia, ... 82 

Pennsylvania canal— Marietta— Harrisburgh,. .. . 83 

Alleirhany mountains — Portage rail road, 85 

Pittsburgh, 86 

Coal mines, 87 

From Philadelphia to the Schuylkill Coal Mines. 

Table of distances — Germantown, 92 

Norristovvn — Fotl&town— Reading, id 

Hamburgh— Mount Carbon, 93 

Rail roads in the vicinity of the mines, 24 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. 

Mauch Chunk, 96 

Mauch Chunk rail road, 97 

Lehigh river, 98 

The Landing — Lehighton, 99 

Lehigh Water Gap, id 

Bethlehem, 100 

Easton — Morris canal, 1 Ol 

Delaware Wind Gap — Delaware Water Gap, .... 102 

From Easton to Schoobfs JMovntain and thence to 

J{eio-York. 

Table of distances— Schooly's Mountain, 1 03 

Newark, N. J.. i^ 

From Philadelphia to A'cjo- York. 

Route by the Camden and Amboy rail road, 104 

Burlington — Bristol — Bordentown, id 

Camden and Amboy rail road, 105 

Route by the way of Trenton, 107 

Philadelphia and Trenton rail road— Trenton,. ... id 

Princeton, • 1 08 

N. Brunswick — New Jersey rail road, 109 

a2 



^^ INDEX. 

Rahway—Elizabethtown— Newark, id 

New-York, " ijq 

Principal Hotels, *.'.*.*.*!.*.'.*.'.*.*.'."" 118 

Excursions— Governor's and Bedlow's* Isiands,'.*.* 122 

Patterson— Passaic Falls, j^ 

Hoboken— Weehawk, !.*.*.*.'.*!".!*." 123 

Lons Branch— harlaem rail road*.*.*.'.'.'.'.*.'.' *.'.'* id 

Hurl Gate — Brooklyn, [] '*' ]04 

Brooklyn, Jamaica and L. Island rai*rr*o*ad* ! *. '.'.'.'. 125 

Kockaway, j26 



Fi 



'rom Xsio- York to Albany. 

Table of distances, -,07 

Passage of the Hudson— Weha*vvken,* ! *.*.*.* ih 

Falhsadoes, ' ^ ^ ' * 129 

Fort Lee— Fort Washington,.'.'.*. i^ 

Tappan Bay— Tarry town, 13O 

Haverstraw Bay— Hiahlands, 131 

Caldwell's Landing—Horse Race,. .'.'. .' .'.'. no 

WestPoint, ' Iti 

Mihtary Academy, \i. 

Pollopel Island-New Windsor-Newburah*';;* 135 

Mdton- Poughkeepsie, '=",...• job 

Hyde Park Landincr, ;;;.* Jog 

Delaware and Hudson canal-Catski'll','. '.'.*. %^ 

Pme Orchard, ' , ;'' 

Athens, .;;;•/; ]f 

Hudson— Coxsackie Landing*.*.'.* Jf? 

Albany, ^' ^^^ 

"' 144 

Excursio7i to Saratoga Springs. 

Pvoute by the way of Schenectady, . 140 

Mohawk and Hudson rail road "' Z 

Buel's Farm— Schenectady, ..'.'.'.'.* jJq 

Saratoga and Schenectady rail road* '. 1 (;i 

Ballston Lake, ' J^i 

Ballston Spa, *. J^* 

Route by the way of Tro^'to'Sa'ratoga Sprin-'s' ' 156 

Gen Van Rensselaer's mansion, ....... f. f. '. '. j^ 



INDEX. V 

M'Adamized road— U. S. Arsenal, 157 

Watcrvliet— Troy, 158 

Rensselaer and Saratoga rail road, ,161 

Van Schaielv's Island— Lansingburgli—VVaterford, 162 
Cohoes Falls— The Junction— Mcchanicville,. . .. 163 
Saratoga Springs, 164 

From Saratoga Springs to the Battle Ground. 

Saratoga Lake, 1^6 

Bemns' Heights, - 1 ^ ' 

Freeman's Farm 1'^ 

Smith House— Schuylerville, 179 

Fort Edward, 180 

From Saratoga Springs to Lake George. 

Sandy Ilill, 181 

Glen's Falls, 182 

Jessup's Falls — Hadley Falls, 183 

Bloody Pond— Caldwell— Lake George, 184 

Fort William Henry, 186 

Passage of Lake G eorge, 188 

Ticondcroga, 191 

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA FALLS. 
BY RAIL ROAD AND STAGE. 

From Saratoga Springs to Buffalo. 

Remarks, 1 93 

Table of distances, 195 

Utica and Schenectady rail road, 196 

Amsterdam — Fonda, 199 

Palatine Bridge — Fort Plain — Johnstown, 200 

Sharon Springs — Little Falls, 201 

Herkimer,. 204 

Utica, 205 

Trenton Falls, 206 

New-Hartford — Manchester — Vernon, 211 

Oneida Castle— Lenox— (Quality Hill— Chittenincfo, 2 1 2 
Manlms, 213 



VI 



INDEX. 



Jamesville— Onondaga Hollow, 914 

Onondao-a Hill— Marcellus,. .'.';*/ ^^ 

Skaneateles, .'.*.'.*.* 91 r- 

Aiiburn— State Prison, *.*.' .*.*"* 9 j g 

J ay u g a , ....'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. hs 

beneca Falls— Waterloo, ojg 

Geneva— Geneva Lake, V. '.*.'.' .' .*.*.* .* .' .' ' O'^o 

CanandaiL^ua, not, 

BurninjT Sprinfis, *.'.*.'.*.'.'.*.*.*,*.'.**" 2^'>5 

E. & W. Bloomtield— Lima— East Avon* .... " ^h 

Avon Spnng— Caledonia— Lerov, * '>2S 

^atavia, " 099 

Batavia to Buffalo, 230 



ERIS CANAL. 

Description of, goQ 

Table of distances, *..*.".'!.*!!,'.']" 234 

Whitesboroufj:]], ^07 

Oriskany— Rome, '. ' oqc 

New London, .v.*;;;: i;;;;* * * 539 

ChUteningo— Syracuse, * 940 

Sahna, * ^^ 

Oswego canal— Geddcs— Nine Mile 'cVe'e'k* ! '..*** 243 

Canton— Jordan— Weed's Port, "244 

Centre Port— Port Bvron-Lake Port, ....\\\\" ,77 

Clyde-Palmvra-Fiir Port, , ' 94^ 

FuUom's Easin— Pittsford, ^Jr 

Rochester, .......*.' •; 

Toneu'anda rail road, * * * o -n 

Ridcre road, ^oO 

Carthage, '.:::: i*. '.:: i! ! i! :*•• ^s-i 

Brockport—Holley— Albion— Medina,... *** 9;^^ 
Gasport— Lockport, o?? 

Buffalo, ...;;;!...*.*.*.*.*.* --- 

Seneca Village, ' 

Western Lakes— Lake Superior,'. '.*.'.*.*.!"" 

Lake Huron— Lake Michigan, ..'...'.*.* 

Lake Erie, 



00 



2 

259 

id 

260 

261 



INDEX. 

From Buffalo to Detroit. 



vii 



Table of distances— Dunkirk, 262 

Van Buren— Erie, Ji't 

Ashtabula— Cleveland, -^/ 

Ohio and Erie Canal, ^'J 

o J 1 ... 264 

feandusKy,. ■ • ^r^r 

Amherstburgh, "i 

Detroit, • „p« 

St. Joseph, ^^ ' 

From Detroit to Chicago. 

Table of distances— Toledo, 268 

Adrien— Tecumseh, ^^ 

Niles— Michigan City— Chicago,, ^oy 

From Chicago to Milwaukee, -^'.1 

Do. to Galena, J'^ 

Do. to the mouth of the Ohio river,. . . . ^/ <5 

From Buffalo to Magara Falls. 

American side — Black Rock, -'.* 

Canada side, ^^ 

Waterloo, • " ' Z7I 

Chippewa Battle Ground, ^^/^ 

Chippewa ViUage-Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, 275 

Burning Spring, ^l 

iN'iagara Falls, ^1° 

Canada side, ^ ^'^ 

American side, 

Biddle stair way, f^t 

Wclland canal, ^^^ 

Uueenston, battle of, j^^' 

Brock's Monument, -°^ 

Fort George or Nevv-ark, '^^.'J 

Youngstown — Lcwiston, ^'^ 

E-idge'lload or Alluvial Way, f-^ 

Tusx^arora Village— Devil's Hole, 2 Jl 

Whirlpool— Sulphur Spring— American Fall, ^^^ 



INDEX. 

LAKE ONTARIO. 
Description of, ^^^ 

Route from Xiagara to Montreal. 

cSue "'^-'^'^^ °' ''^^^"^^^' 294 



Cape \ incenl-Morristovvn-Ogdensburah 

iiap.ds of the St. LuNvrence,. ..... ° ' * * oqq 

Gal op islands~St. Regis, til 

Lachine-J^Jontrca!, . . . f . . . . ^^n 

Kx-cursions-Lachine-VarenneV, '. ! ! 1 30-? 

Rideau canal, ' ^^f 

' 304 

From Montreal to (luebec. 

Description of the route, ,>nQ 

William Henry, ,, ^J^ 

Lake St. Peter-Three Rivers,'.*.* *.'.*.'.'.' tu 

Pi?m Levi^^'^.'?!"""^^^^''^ river-Wolfe's 6;;;,'.: 312 
Cluebec, ^^'^ 

Plains of Abraham,*.*.'. '.*.*.*.'.'. oi? 

Martello Towers,.. ^^^ 

Falls of iMontmorenci, *. * ., 

Lorette, ^" 

Chaudiere Falls, .*.*.*.* !*..*.*.* '. ^^^ 

St. Lawrence river'belowauebVc! .'.".* S? 

fcaguenav river, ... ' * ' * ^^'^ 

Mouth of the St. Lawrence,* '.'.'. o?J 

From Quebec to Montreal, ... *" . , 

' id 

From Montreal to Whitehall. 
Table of distances, ....... .,, . 

«.aprarie— St. Johns, * *.' ' . 

Lake Champlain— Isle aux No'i'v" '. oq? 

Rouse's Point-.-Plattsbur^h,. oo? 

Downie's Monument, ...... 337 



INDEX. IX 

Port Kcnt—Atlorate's Falls— High Bridge, 339 

Burlington— Split Rock, 340 

Crown Point— Ticonderoga — Mount Independence, 341 
South and East Bays— Whitehall, 342 

CHAMPLAIN CANAL. 
Description of, 342 

Canal route from Whitehall to Mhany. 
Table of distances, 343 

"From Whitehall to Troy and Albany, by Stage and Rail 
Road. 

Table of distances, 344 

Fort Ann — Burgoyne's road, id 

Sandy Hill— Fortville, 345 

Saratoga Springs to Troy and Albany, id 

ROUTES TO BOSTOX. 
Remarks relating to, 346 

From Albany to Boston. 

Table of distances, , , id 

New Lebanon, 347 

Pittsfield— Natural Bridge, 348 

Northampton — Farmington and Hampshire canal, 349 

Mount Holyoke, , id 

Hadley, 350 

Regicides, Whalley and Goffe, , 351 

Belchertown — Ware Factory Village — Brookfield, 353 

Leicester — Worcester, 354 

Boston and Worcester rail road, 355 

Worcester to Boston, id 

From Saratoga Springs to Boston. 

Table of distances — Schuylerville, 356 

Union Village — Cambridge — Arlington, 357 



X INDEX. 

Manchester — Chester — Bellows Falls, id 

Walpole, 359 

Keene — Groton — Concord, id 

Lexington, 360 

Cambridge, 301 

From Whitehall to Boston. 

Fairhaven — Castleton, 362 

Rutland— Chester, 364 

From Burlington to Boston, through Windsor, Vt. 

Table of distances — Montpelier, 365 

Randolph — R-oyalton — Woodstock — Windsor,.. . 366 

Windsor to Boston, id 

From Burlington to Boston, by way of the White Moun- 
tains a7id Condord, JV*. H. 

Table of distances — Hanover, {see note) 367 

White Mountains, 36S 

Conway — Fryeburgh, 375 

From Comvay to Concord. 

Centre Harbor — Red Mountain — Squam Lake,, . 376 

Concord, 377 

From Concord to Boston. 

IS'ashua — Lowell, 378 

Boston and Lowell rail road, 380 

Boston, 3Sl 

East Boston, 389 

Mount Auburn — Gluincy, 390 

Porchester — Brighton, 391 

Watertown — Cambridge, 392 

Charlestown, id 

Breed's Hill, 393 

Bunker Hill Monument — Chelsea 397 

Port Independence — Nahant, 398 

Forts around Boston erected during the revolution 402 



INDEX. ^ 

From Boston to Portland. 

Table of distances — Lynn, 408 

Salcm — Newburyport, 409 

Portsmouth, 410 

Portland, 411 

From Portland to Q,uebec, 

Remarks relative to the route, • • 412 

Table of distances, *^ 

North Yarmouth — Freeport, 413 

Brunswick, \^ 

Bowdointown — Hallowell, *» 

Augusta — Sidney, 414 

Waterville — Bloomfield — Norridgework, id 

Remainder of the route to Gluebec, 415 

From Portland to Eastport. 

Table of distances, 415 

Bath — Wiscasset — New Castle — Waldoboro',. . 416 

Warren — Thomastown, id 

Camden — Belfast — Buckstown — Penobscot, 417 

Castine, id 

Machias — Eastport, 418 

Robinstown, 419 

From Boston to Providence. 

Boston and Providence rail road, 419 

"Dedham, {see note,) id 

Providence, c. 420 

Blackstone Canal, 423 

Stonington and Providence rail road, id 

From Providence to J^ewport. 

Bristol — Nevi^port, 424 

Fort Green— Mount Hope— King Philip, 427 

B 



XU INDEX. 

From Providence to Jfew-London. 

Stonington, 431 

New-London, 432 

Steam-boat and stages, 434 

From J^ew-London to Jforioich, by steam-boat. 

Thames river, 434 

Mohegan — Trading Cove — Norwich, 435- 

From J^orioich to Hartford. 

Table of distances — East Hartford — Hartford, . . . 437 
Steam boats and stages from Hartford, 440 

From Hartford to J^eio-Haven. 

Table of distances — Wethersfield, 441 

Rocky Hill—Middletown, 442 

Natural Ice Houses, 443 

Haddam — Saybrook, (see note,) id 

New-Haven, 444 

Yale College, , 445 

West Rock, 446 

East Rock — Farmington Canal, 447 

Steam boats from New-Haven to New- York,.. . . 448 
Stages from New-Haven, , id 

Route from J^ew-Haven to J^eio-York. 

Table of distances — Sketch of the route, (see note,) 448 

Bridgeport — Fairfield, id 

Norwalk — West Chester county, .*.•• ,449 

Horscneck — Harlem, id 

From Jfew-Haven to Litchfield. 

Stages — Waterbury — West Rock, 449 

Watertown — Litchfield — Mount Tom, 450 

Great Pond— Chalybeate Spring— Mount Profpect, id 



INDEX. Xlll 

From Litchfield to Albany. 
Stages and intervening places, 451 

From Litchfield to Hartford. 

Harwinton — Burlington, 451 

Fannington — Hartford, 452 

Route up the Valley of the Connecticut river. 

Windsor— Enfield, 452 

Suffield—Wcst Springfield— Springfield, 454 

South Hadley Falls, 456 

Nort Hampton — Hadley — Hatfield, id 

Muddy Brook, 457 

Deerfieid, 458 

Greenfield, 460 

Turner's Falls, 46 1 

Bernardstown — Vernon — Guilford, 462 

Brattleborough — Dumnierston — Putney, id 

Westminster — Walpole — Bellows Falls, 463 

Charlestown, ^^ 

Sprmgfield— Weathersfield— Windsor-Hartland, 464 
Hartford — Hanover, 465 



INTRODUCTION. 



The oppressive heat of summer in the southern sec- 
tions of the United States, and the consequent expos- 
ure to illness, have long induced the wealthy part of 
the population to seek, at that season of the year, the 
more salubrious climate of the north. But the recent 
gigantic internal improvements in the northern and 
middle states, and the development of new and highly 
interesting natural scenery, together with the increased 
facilities for travelling, have greatly augmented the 
number of tourists within a short period. The rail 
roads, canals, coal mines, the Springs, the Falls, the 
Lakes, the fortifications of Gtuebec, the sublime moun- 
tain scenery in New- York and New-England, with the 
various attractions presented in the large commercial 
cities, cannot fail of insuring to a traveller a rich com- 
pensation for the toils incident to a journey. 

This work is designed as a pocket manual and guide 
to travellers visiting these places. Our limits forbid 
that we should indulge in elaborate descriptions or mi- 
nute geographical and statistical details. We have 
therefore confined ourselves to subjects of more imme- 
diate interest to the tourist; directing him in his course 
and pointing out, as he passes, objects which most de- 
serve his notice and regard. 

The Guide, it vt^ill be perceived, commences at Au- 
gusta, in Georgia, though a rapid glance of the country 



XVI INTRODUCTION. 

merely is taken until reaching Washington City. The 
traveUing from south to north being more generally by 
water than otherwise, a minute description of the coun- 
try between Augusta and Washington would be unin- 
teresting and unimportant to a great proportion of the 
readers of these pages. We therefore briefly notice 
some of the prominent cities end towns, and pass on 
to those sections embraced within what has been usual- 
ly denominated the Fashionable or Northern Tour. 



THE TRAVELLER'S GUIDE. 



FROM AUGUSTA, GEO., TO CHARLESTON, S. C. 
136 miles. 

Augusta is an incorporated city, and the capital of 
Richmond county, Geo. It is located on the Savannah 
river, 340 miles by water above Savannah, between 
which places it is navigable for boats of only 100 tons 
burthen. The city contains a court house, jail, and 
several churches, banks and other public buildings, 
many of which are creditable to the taste and munifi- 
cence of the inhabitants. The population in 1830 was 
6,696, since which it must have increased to 8 or 9000. 

From Hamburgh, a village of some magnitude on 
the opposite side of the river, the Charleston and Ham- 
burgh rail road commences, connecting the two places 
by a steam communication 135 miles long. It was 
commenced in 1830 and completed in 1833. Instead 
of being graded, it consists principally of trestle work — 
the rails, in many instances, being from 12 to 15 feet 
above the surface of the ground. There being no horse 
path, this elevation is oftentimes unpleasant to passen- 
gers; which, added to the importance of rendering the 
work more durable, has induced the company to un- 
dertake a more solid structure — so that ultimately, the 

B 



20 FROM SAVAXN'ATI TO CHARLESTON', 

entire road will probably be graded, and the iinpleaKant- 
neps, if not unsaCety, of a fragile foundation avoided. 

From the bridge at Hamburgh, the road lises in a 
distance of 16 miles, 360 feet, and from thence to 
Charleston it descends 510 feet. It has one incHned 
plane 3800 feet long, wifh an ascent of 180 feet, which 
is overcome by the means of stationary engines. The 
road consists of a single track, with occasional turnoutSj 
and the only power used is that of locomotive engines. 
The route from Hamburgh to Charleston is performed 
in about 12 hours. 

From Augusta a rail road is also constnicting to 
Athens, a distance of !14 miles. This road will con- 
nect with the one from Hamburg?i, by means of a 
bridge across the river, and when completed, will form 
a continuous line of about 250 mile?, from the northern 
part of Georgia to Charleston. 

FROM SAVANKAH TO CHARLESTOJT, 

110 miles. 
Satawati, the principal city in the state of Georgia.. 
is located on the south-west bank of the Savannah riv- 
er, about 17 miles from the bar at its mouth. The city 
is built on elevated j^round, and exhibits a bcautifn! ap* 
pearance from the water ; its tal! spires and other public 
buildings, wnth the groves of trees planted along its 
streets, giving it an air of peculiar fascination. The 
streets are wide and regularly laid out, and thei'build- 
ings, together with the public squares, of which there 
are ten, exhibit much taste and elegance. Of the public 
buildings, the citv contains a court house, jail, hospital, 
theatre, exchange, a public library, 3 banks, and 10 



FROM SA\ANN'AH TO CllArxl.KSTON. 



21 



churclios. The Presbytenun church is nn elegant and 
spacious edifice of sLoiie. The Exchange is a large 
building, 5 stories high. The academy, partly of brick, 
and partly of stone, is 180 feet front, 60 feet wide, and 
3 stones higii. Savannah is by far the most important 
commercial town in Georgia, and is the great mart of 
the cotton planters for an extensive and well settled 
region of country. Its population in 1S30 was 7,303. 
Steam boats ply regularly between Savannah and 
Charleston, distance 110 miles, as follows : 



Miles. 
Tybee Sound, 12 



Miles. 
North Edisto Sound, . 10 



Portvlepublican,.... 25 Light House, 2j 

Beaufort 10 Charleston i^ar, r. 

South EJioto, 18 Charleston, ' 

By land, the distance between the two cities is llS 
miles, as folio vv's : 



Miles. 
From Savannah to 

Beck's Ferry, on 

the Savannah r. . . . 25 

Fitch's Echan road, . . 19 

Coosa uhatchie, 4 

Pocotaligo, ^ 

Saltketcher Church,. 7 



Miles. 
Thompson's Tavern, . 9 
Pompon P. Office, 
Jackson Borough, 
Hick's Tavern,. . 
Green's Tavern,. 
Ashley River,. . . . 
Charleston, 



11 

3 

10 

10 

8 

6 



On this route, the tourist crosses the Savannah river, 
which is navigable for steam boats to Augusta, 123 
miles, by land, above Savannah, having its rise 1 50 miles 
northwest of the former place ; 

The Coosauhalchie river, which rises 47 miles north- 
west of the village of that name, and falls into the Coo- 
saw river, 6 miles south-east ; 



22 CHARLESTON. 

The Cambahee river, which rises 75 miles north-west 
of Saltketcher, and falls into St. Helena Sound, 18 
miles south-east from that place ; 

The Edisto river, which rises 90 miles north-west of 
Jacksonboro', and falls into the Atlantic ocean 20 miles 
south-cast ; and 

The Ashley river, which rises about 40 miles north- 
west of Charleston. 

This route is interspersed with rice and cotton plan- 
tations, and several handsome country seats of the op- 
ulent owners of the soil. In the spring, the whole face 
of the country assumes a richness of verdure highly 
picturesque and romantic ; which, however, becomes 
dried and withered during the burning heat of a sum- 
mer's sun. 

CHARLESTON, 

The metropohs of South Carolina, is alike distin- 
guished for the opulence and hospitality of its inhabi- 
tants. On entering the city from the bay, an interest- 
ing prospect is presented. The glittering spires of its 
public edifices are well calculated to give animation to 
the scene. Some of its streets arc extremely beautiful, 
and many of the houses are truly elegant. Orange 
trees, in the early part of the season, laden with fruit, 
and peach trees clothed with blossoms, meet the eye of 
the traveller, and united with the climate of the coun- 
try at that time, render Charleston one of the most at- 
tractive cities in the union. The society is refined, in- 
telligent, frank and affable. 

The city was founded and made the seat of govern- 
ment of the state in 1680. It stands on a dead level 



5ULLIVAN*'S ISLAND. 23 

with tlie sea, two noble rivers, the Adhle}' and tlie 
Cooper, enclosing it on a wide peninsula, called the 
Neck. Most of the houses contain a piazza, extending 
from the ground to the top, giving- to the rooms in each 
story a shady open walk. Except in the commercial 
parts of the town, the houses, which are mostly paint- 
ed white, are generally surrounded with gardens, trees 
and shrubbery, giving to them a peculiarly romantic 
and rich appearance. 

The most celebrated edifices of this city, are the Or- 
phan Asylum and the Circular Church. The for- 
mer is one of the best institutions of the kind in the 
United States. It maintains and educates 130 orphan 
children, and is highly honorable to the characteristic 
humanity and benevolence of the place, and a happy 
illustration of the tone of public feeling. The other 
public buildings are iO or 12 in number, exclusive of 
about 20 churches. The city library is one of the best 
in the union, and contains neanly 14,000 volumes. 

Though this city has been occasionally visited with 
yellow fever and the cholera, it is considered more 
healthy for acclimated inhabitants than the surround* 
ing country. The planters from the low country, and 
many opulent strangers from the West Indies, come 
here to spend the sickly months, and to enjoy the ele- 
gant and enlightened society with which the city 
abounds. 

The rail road from tliis place to Hamburgh haa 
already been noticed at p. 19. 

Sullivan's Island, which lays at the distance of 7 
miles from the city, at the entrance of the harbor, is a 
b2 



24 Sullivan's island. 

spot consecrated as the theatre of important events 
during the revohition. On this island is Fort Moul- 
trie, rendered glorious by the unyielding desperation 
with which it sustained the attack of the British fleet 
in the war of our independence. The fleet consisted 
of about fifty sail ; and on the first annunciation of its 
approach, lay within six leagues of the island. It was 
a time of awful and anxious suspense to the garrison in 
the fort, and to the inhabitants of the city. The public 
mind had become deeply impressed with ideas of Eng- 
lish valor ; and diffident of its own power, looked with 
painful anxiety towards the issue of the coming contest. 

About this period a proclamation reached the shore, 
under the sanction of a flag, in which the British com- 
mander, Sir Henry Clinton, held out the promise of 
pardon to all who would resign their arms and co-ope- 
rate in the re-cstablishment of loyalty. But the royal 
proposition met with the rejection which it deserved. 
The militia of the adjacent country crowded the streets 
of Charleston ; the citizens threw down their imple- 
ments of industry and grasped their arms in defence of 
their native city. On the 28th of June, 1776, Fort 
Moultrie was attacked by about ten ships, frigates and 
sloops, and was defended in a manner that would have 
honored the heroic veterans of Greece or Rome. 

During this engagement, the inhabitants stood at 
their respective posts, prepared to meet the advancing 
foe. They had determined to grapple with the enemy 
as he landed, and surrender their liberty only with their 
lives. But so manfully did the garrison withstand the 
conflict, that the fleet was compelled to withdraw, leav- 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 25 

ing the inhabitants in the unmolested enjoyment of 
their rights. 

The influence of this expedition was most auspicious 
to the cause of American liberty. It strengthened the 
trembling hopes and dispersed the fears of the inhabi- 
tants. They had seen the result of this attempt, and 
now felt the triumphant assurance that the sacred 
cause in which they had enlisted would eventually suc- 
ceed. 

The communication between Charleston and New- 
York is rendered frequent by convenient and commo- 
dious steam and other packets that ply from one place 
to the other. A journey by land, until reaching Nor- 
folk, is tedious and uninteresting ; the public inns, ex- 
cept in the large towns, are generally poor, and a 
voyage by water is the uniform choice of the fashionable 
and genteel portion of the community. 

The distance by water from Charleston to New- 
York is 670 miles, and the intermediate distances are 
as follows : 



Miles. 

OffCapeFear, 120 

Cape Look Out, .. 75 
Cape Hatteras, . .. 78 
Capes of Virginia, 140 
Cape May, 120 



Miles. 
OlTBarnegat Inlet,.. 70 

The Bar,. t 45 

Sandy Hook, 3 

The Narrows U 

New. York, 8 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK, 

by the coast, 
Is 419 miles, and the intermediate distances are as 
follows : 



26 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 



Joules. 
By land. 

Greenwich, 

VVapetan Church, . . . 

Tvveeden Cottons,. . . 

San tee R., S. Branch, 

N. Branch, 

Georgetown, 14 

On the Sands, 20 

Varenes, N. C, 13 

Smithville, 26 

Brunswick, 12 

Wihnington, 18 

Hermitage, 6 

S. Washington, 24 

Rhode's, 24 



JSIiles. 

Trenton, 11 

Newbern, 20 

Washington, 35 

Plymouth,. 35 

Mouth of Roanoke R. 8 

By steam boat. 
Wade's Point, Albe- 
marle Sound, 45 

Elizabeth City,. 17 

Btj land. 

Pasquotank River,.. 12 

N. Carohn a state line, 10 

Portsmouth, 20 

Norfolk, 1 



The Santee, passed on this route, is the'principal river 
in South Carolina. It is formed by a union of the 
Congaree and Wateree about 25 miles south-east of 
Columbia, and falls into the ocean by two mouths 
about 12 miles south-east from where it is crossed. A 
canal 22 miles long, connects the Santee with Cooper 
river, through which large quantities of produce are 
annually conveyed to Charleston. 

Georgetown, the capital of the district of that name, 
is located on Winyaw bay, near the mouth of the Pedee 
river, and 13 miles from the ocean. It contains a pop- 
ulation of between 2 and 3000 inhabitants, and is a 
place of very considerable trade. 



Wilmington', N. C. is the capital of New-Hanover 
county. It is situated on the north-east side of Cape 
Fear river, just below a union of its branches, to which 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 27 

place the river is navigable for vessels. The town con- 
tains a court house, jail, academy, 2 banks, 2 churches, 
and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants ; and is the great- 
est shipping port in the state. It was visited by a con- 
flagration in 1819, by which 200 buildings, valued at 
$1,00,000, were destroyed ; and by another in 1828, in 
which 50 buildings were burned, valued at $130,000. 

Newbern is situated on the south side of Neuse riv- 
er, 30 miles from Pamlico Sound. It is the largest 
town in North Carolina, containing a population of 
nearly 4000 inhabitants. There are in this place a 
court house, jail, theatre, 2 banks and 3 churches. 

Washington is located on the north side of the 
PamHco river, and contains a population of about 1200 
inhabitants. 

Plymouth, the capital of Washington county, is 
situate on the north side of the Roanoke river, and 5 
miles from Albemarle Sound. 

The Roanoke river rises in the state of Virginia, pur- 
suing a crooked course to Albemarle Sound, into which 
it empties by several channels, 230 miles from its 
source. It is navigable about 30 miles for vessels of 
considerable burthen, and for boats, 70 miles. The 
banks are fertile and well settled. 

Albemarle Sound is in the north-east part of North 
Carolina, on the coast. It extends from east to west 
62 miles, and is from 4 to 15 miles wide. It is con- 



28 FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 

nected with Pamlico Sound by several narrow inlets, 
and with the Chesapeake Bay by a canal througti the 
Dismal Swamp. 

A steam boat is taken at the mouth of the Roanoke 
across the Albemarle Sound to 

Elizabeth City, the capital of Pasquotank county, 
N. C. The town is located on the bank of the Pas- 
quotank river, which has its source in the Dismal 
Swamp. It contains a courthouse, jail and 4 churches. 
From Elizabeth City the road to Nortbik lies on the 
bank of the canal, 23 miles long, cut through the 

Dismal Swamp. This swamp is a tract of marshy 
land, generally covered with pine, juniper and cypress 
trees. It is 30 miles long from north to south, and 10 
broad. In the centre is Drummond's Pond, 15 miles in 
circumference. 

The Canal, through this swamp, proves of immense 
advantage to the eastern section of North Carolina. 
Formerly their coasting trade was through the Ockra- 
cock inlet, by the tedious, hazardous and expensive sea 
route ; but the canal forms an easy, safe and cheap 
means of conveyance, and affords more extensive 
markets. Near the centre of its extreme points is the 
junction of what is called the North West Canal, which 
is 6 miles long, and connects North West River (which 
empties into Currituck Sound in North Carolina) with 
the main canal, opening an avenue to market for the 
vast stores of timber in that section suitable for naval 
purposes, besides the various other products of the 
country. On the main c;inal, the basin at Deep Creek 



NORFOLK. 29 

is a bcautifursheot. of water, half a mile lonn', and 15 
fept above tide water. The lockage is 40 feet ; and the 
locks, which are stone, are of the best workmanship, 

Portsmouth is pleasantly located on the south west 
side of Elizabeth river, opposite Norfolk. It contains a 
court house, jail, 4 churches, and between 2 and 3000 
inhabitants. 

The Portsmouth and Roanoke rail road commences 
at this place, and passes through Suffolk in a westerly 
direction until it crosses the Petersburgh rail road. 
From thence it is to extend to the Roanoke river, oppo- 
site Weldon in North Carolina, 77 miles from Ports- 
mouth. 

Norfolk, the commercial capital of Virffinia, is situ- 
ated on the east side of Elizabeth river, immediately 
below the junction of its two main branches, and eight 
miles above Hampton roads, and had a population, in 
1830, of 9,800. The town lies low, and is in some pla- 
ces marshy, though the principal streets are well paved. 
Among the public buildings are a theatre, 3 banks, an 
academy, marine hospital, atheneum, and 6 churches. 
The harbor, which is capacious and safe, is defended by 
several forts. One is on Craney Island, near the mouth 
of Elizabeth river. There are also fortifications at 
Hampton roads ; the principal of which. Fort Calhoun, 
is not yet completed. 

The J^avy Yard at Gosport, on the bank of the Eliza- 
beth river, nearly opposite Norfolk, is deserving the 
attention of strangers. A superb dock has been con- 
structed at this place, similar to that at Charlestown, 



30 FROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON. 

near Boston. The length of the bottom, from the inner 
or foremost block, to that 'which is nearest the gates, is 
20G feet, besides 50 feet of spare room — sufficient to 
hold a small vessel. The width of the dock, at the top, 
is 8G feet. As the tide rises and falls but 3 or 4 feet, 
the water is pumped out, when necessary, by steam 
engines. 

From Norfolk to Washington city or Baltimore, the 
routes are usually performed by steam boats. The in- 
termediate distances are as follows : 

FROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON, 

195 miles,* 

Miles. 
Off Outlet St. Mary's 

river, 42 

Off Port Tobacco,... 38 
Mouth of Potomac 

river, 15 

Mount Vernon, 25 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, ....... 6 

* The route is down the Elizabeth river till it enters 
the Chesapeake Bay — thence up the bay to the mouth 
of the Potomac, which is entered, the boat proceeding 
up the river, and passing Mount Vernon and Alexan- 
dria, noticed at pages 39, 40. 



Miles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth 

river. 9 

Mouthof James river, 6 
Mouth of York river, 

Old Point Comfort, 20 

New Point Comfort, 10 

Rappahannock river, 15 



FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND. 31 



FROM NORFOLK TO BALTIMORE. 

191 miles. 



Miles. 
To the mouth of the 
Rappahannock, as 
in the preceding ta- 
ble, 60 

Smith's Point 25 

Outlet of Potomac,. . 10 
Outlet of Pautuxent 
river, 18 



Miles. 

Cone Point, 5 

Sharp's Island, 15 

Three Sisters, 16 

Annapolis, 10 

Sandy Point, 6 

Mouih of the Pataps- 

co river, 11 

Baltimore,* 15 



The Chesapeake Bat, the principal water commu- 
nication on the foregoing routes, stretches in a direc- 
tion nearly north from the mouth of James river, or 
Lynhaven Bay, to the mouth of the Susquehannah riv- 
er, near the north line of Maryland. It is 180 miles 
long, and varies from 10 to 25 miles in breadth, divid- 
ing the states of Virginia and Maryland into two parts, 
called the eastern and western shores. It has numer- 
ous commodious harbors, and affords a safe naviga- 
tion. Among the waters which flow into it, (com- 
mencing north,) are the Susquehannah, Potomac, Rap- 
pahannock, York and James rivers. It has been esti- 
mated that the Chesapeake Bay, including its minor 
bays and inlets, contains an aggregate of 3600 square 
miles. 

FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND, 

The usual route is by water up the James river ; on 
which steam-boats are constantly plying between the 

* See page 52. 



32 



JAMCSTO'.VK. 



two places. V/o, however, give tlie routes by land and 
water, with the intermediate distances : 



By toater — 122 niilp?;. 

JSIiles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 

Day's Point, 10 

Hog Island, IB 

Swan's Point, 9 

Chickahonnanv r 4 

Fort Powhatan, 21 

Eppcs' inland, 17 

Che=terfie!d, 23 

Pvichmond 13 



By land — 110 miles. 

Miles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 
Cross Hampton Roads 

to Hampton, 8 

Half-v,'ay House, .... 11 

Yori<, 10 

Williamsbnrgh, 12 

Chiswell,....' 14 

Cumberland, -[Q 

Chickahomany river,. 15 
Richmond, 14 



Jamestown, 24 miles from Norfolk, on the James riv- 
er, was founded in 1608, and was the first English settle- 
ment in the U. States. The site is a very beautiful one, 
and the settlement itself must have been but a few steps 
from the river. On each side there is a delightful and 
variegated succession of woodlands, meadows, pas- 
tures, and green fields ; in front appears the broad ex- 
panse of James river, with its multitude of white, glid- 
ing sails. The opposite hills are picturesque : some 
are entirely covered with woods ; others, partly clear- 
ed, presenting, in the proper season, patches of white 
wavy corn. To increase the richness of this scenery, 
here and there are distinguished the old and elegant 
mansions of the Virginia planters, like points of beauty 
in a fine picture. 

No vestige of Jamestow^n is now to be seen, except 
the ruins of a church steeple, about 30 feet high, and 
fringed to its summit with running ivy. Near by is a 



JAMESTOWN. 3S 

burving fjroun<1 with its vcnenibie tombstones, and 
spotted with cl^rk green shrubbery and melancholy 
(lowers. It looks like a lonely, unfrequented ])]acc, 
and there is something deeply interesting in contem- 
plating these vestiges of an age gone by. 

In this scene of silence and solitude, the rude forefa- 
thers of the hamlet have, for ages, rested. Nothing at 
this day remains but the land they cultivated, and the 
graves in which they repose ; but the places are well 
known, and with increasing years vviil grow more ven- 
erable and illustrious. 

The celebrated Pocahontas (daughter of the Indian 
chief Powhatan) was the tutelary guardian of this set- 
tlement ; and some of her descendants are now living" 
in Virginia. Among the most distinguished was the 
late John Randolph. His descent is thus given in a 
Virginia paper : 

"Pocahontas was afterwards in London, in compa- 
ny with her husband, whose name was Rolf, an Eng- 
lishman by birth. She was presented to the King and 
Clueen, by Lady Delaware and her husband. She was 
present at several masquerades and assemblies, all 
which sights gave her great gratification. Soon after- 
M'ards, having embarked on board the ship George, 
from London, for Virginia, she fell sick and died at 
Gravesend. 

"Her young child, Thomas Rolf, was left at Plym- 
outh, under the care of Sir Thomas Stukely, who de- 
sired to keep it. Pocahontas died in 1617, aged 23. 
Tliomas Rolf, her son, afterwards became a citizen of 
Virginia. Re left at his death a daughter ; this daugh- 
ter married Col. Robert Eollin"', bv whom she left au 



34 RICHMOND. 

only son and five daughters, who were married respec- 
tively to Col. Richard Johnson, Col. John Fleming, 
Doct. William Gray, Mr. Thomas Eldridge, and Mr. 
James Murray. 

" The noble blood of Pocahontas flows in many 
veins ; and the late Orator of Roanoke, John Randolph, 
used to claim a descent from the daughter of Pow- 
hatan." 

WiLLiAMSBURGH,8 miles from Jamestown, is situated 
between York and James rivers, and was formerly the 
metropolis of the state. Its streets are regularly laid 
out, and many of the buildings are handsome. Wil- 
liam and Mary's College, located in this place, was 
founded in 1691, and was liberally endowed at that 
time by the reigning king and queen of England. It 
has a library of between 3 and 4000 volumes, and a 
valuable philosophical apparatus. 

Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is siuated on the 
north bank of James river, directly at its lower falls, at 
the head of tide water, and 150 miles from its mouth. 
The town rises in an acclivity from the water, and pre* 
sents a beautiful and higly picturesque appearance. 
A part of the town, on what is called Shockoe hill, 
overlooks the lower part ; and from the capitol, which 
is on the greatest eminence, a most deliohtful prospect 
is had of the river and adjacent country. Besides the 
capitol, which is a handsome edifice, the city contains 
an elegant court house, a penitentiary, (which cost 
$135,000,) an alms house, 2 markets, a museum, an 
academy of fine arts, a female orphan asylum, 3 banks, 
and S churches ; one of which, built on the luins of the 



MONTICELLO. 35 

tiicatre in tlie conflagration ofwliich 00 citizens perisii- 
ed, is very beautiful. At the Vir^ginia armory, which is 
erected here, are manufactured between 4 and 5000 
nuiskcts and rifles annually. The population of the 
city in 1830, was 16,085. 

Manchester, directly opposite, is connected with 
Richmond by two substantial bridges, and is a flour- 
ishing place. 

Among the many objects of attraction in Virginia, 
are Monticello, the former residence of ex-president 
Jefferson, the Warm and Hot Springs, the Natural 
Bridge, and the Berkley Springs. 

From Richmond to Monticello, the distance is 80 miles, 
in a north-westerly direction ; the road passing Gooch- 
land county line, distant 20 miles ; Fluvanna county 
line, 33 ; Gordonvilie, 12 ; Milton, on the Rivanna 
river, 12 ; Monticello, 3. 

Monticello was much resorted to during the life- 
lime of its sage and philosopher ; and since his de- 
cease, the consecrated spot of his interment is a place 
cf frequent visitation. It is thus described by a late 
traveller : 

" I ascended the winding road which leads from 
Charlottesville to Monticello. The path leads a circuit- 
ous ascent of about two miles up the miniature moun- 
tain, on which stand the mansion, the farm, and the 
grave of Jefferson. On entering the gate which opens 
into the enclosure, numerous paths diverge in various 
directions, winding through beautiful groves to the 
c2 



36 MONTICELLO. 

summit of the hill. From the peak on which the 
house stands, a grand and nearly illuminated view 
opens, of the thickly wooded hills and fertile vaUies, 
which stretch out on eitlier side. The University, with 
its dome, porticoes and colonnades, looks like a fairy city 
in the plain; Charlottesville seems to be directly beneath. 
No spot can be imagined as combining greater advan- 
tages of grandeur, healthfulness and seclusion. The 
house is noble in its appearance ; two large columns 
support a portico, wliich extends from the wings, and 
into it the front door opens. The apartments are neat- 
ly furnished and embellished with statues, busts, por- 
traits and natural curiosities. The grounds and out- 
houses have been neglected ; Mr. Jefferson's attention 
being absorbed from such personal concerns, by the 
cares attendant on the superintendence of the Universi- 
ty, which, when in health, he visited daily since its 
erection commenced. 

" At a short distance behind the mansion, in a quiet, 
shaded spot, the visitor sees a square enclosure, sur- 
rounded by a low unmortared stone wall, which he en- 
ters by a neat wooden gate. This is the family burial 
ground, containing 10 or 15 graves, none of them 
marked by epitaphs, and only a few distinguished by 
any memorial. On one side of this simple cemetery, is 
the resting place of the Patriot and Philosopher. When 
I saw it, the vault was just arched, and in readiness for 
the plain stone which is to cover it. May it ever con- 
tinue like Washington's, without any adventitious at- 
tractions or conspicuousness ; for, when we or our pos- 
terity need any other memento of our debt of honor to 
those names, than their simple inscription on paper, 



NATURAL BRIDGE. 37 

Wood or stone, gorgeous tombs would be a mockery to 
their memories. ^Vllen gratitude shall cease to con- 
secrate their remembrance in the hearts of our citi- 
zens, no cenotaph will inspire the reverence we owe to 
them." 

From JMonticello to the Warm SpriJigs is 91 miles, in 
a westerly direction, passing through Charlottesville 2 
miles, Rockfish Gap 24, Waynesboro' 2, Staunton 12, 
Cloverdalc 28, Green Valley 10 ; from whence to the 
Warm Springs is 13 miles. The temperature of these 
springs is about 96°, and sufficient water issues from 
them to turn a mill. They are used for bathing, and 
are esteemed for rheumatic complaints. 

The Bath or Hot Spring is 5 miles farther. The 
stream is small ; but the temperature is much greater 
than that of the Warm Spring, being 112". 

These springs flow into the Jackson, a source of the 
James river. 

The Natural Bridge is 150 miles west of Rich- 
mond, and by diverging to the left, without visiting 
Monticello, may be taken in the route to the Warm 
Springs. This bridge is over Cedar creek, in Rock- 
bridge county, 12 miles south west of Lexington, and 
is justly considered one of the greatest natural curiosi- 
ties in the world. The river at this place runs through 
a chasm in a hill. The chasm is 50 feet wide at the top, 
200 feet deep, and the sides almost perpendicular. The 
bridge is formed by a huge rock thrown completely 
across this chasm at the top. The rock forming the 



38 FROM KICHMOXU TO WASHINGTON' CITY, 

bridge is 60 feet broad in the middle, and is covered 
with earth and trees. It forms a sublime spectacle 
when examined from the margin of the river beneath.* 

FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON CITY, 

112 miles. 
From Richmond a rail road is taken to Fredericks- 
burgh, 58 miles distant ; and from thence a steam-boat 
to Washington city, 54 miles farther. The interme- 
diate distances are as follows : 



By rail road. 

Miles. 
From Richmond to Pa- 

" munkey river, 25 

*' Mattaponv river, 10 

" Caroline County, 13 

" Fredericksburjih, 10 



By steam-boat. 

Miles. 
iV'outh of Potomac 

creek, 

Mount Vernon, 30 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington city, 6 



Fredericksburgh is situated on the south side of 
the Rappahannock river, 110 miles from its outlet into 
the Chesapeake Bay. It contains a court-house, jail, 

* A student of one of the Virginia coUeofes, a few 
years since, attempted the daring effort of climbing up 
one of the sides of this precipice. He had ascended 50 
or GO feet before he was aware of the extreme hazard 
of the undertaking. It was then too late to retreat, and 
to progress seemed certain destruction. He, however, 
continued ascending from one crevice to another, hold- 
ing on the occasional protuberances of the rock, until 
he reached the lop. But so arduous w^as the labor, 
that his hands and limbs were severely lacerated, and 
such was the efTect on his mind of the perils and dan- 
gers encountered, that he became partially deranged, 
and never fully recovered the possession of his menial 
faculties. 



MOUNT VERNON. 33 

academy, 2 banks, 4 churches, and about 500 dwelling 
houses ; and being near the head of navigation and 
surrounded by a fertile country, it enjoys an extensive 
and advantageous trade. 

The first object of immediate interest, on ascending 
the Potomac, is 

WouNT Vernon, on the south side of the river, 39 
miles from the mouth of the Potomac creek. To this 
sacred spot the mind of every American recurs with the 
most enthusiastic devotion. He looks upon it as con- 
secrated ground. Here the immortal Washington, af- 
ter having conducted the American armies forth to vic- 
tory and independence, retired to enjoy the rich reward 
of his services in the warm hearted gratitude of his 
countrymen, and in the peaceful seclusion of pri- 
vate life. 

This place, till within a few years, was the residence 
of Judge Washington, the nephew of the General ; 
but after his decease in 1829, the estate descended to 
a nephew of the Judge, John Adams Washington, who 
died in 1832 ; since which the estate has remained in 
the possession of the widow and children of the latter. 
The road to it is almost uninhabited, and difficult to 
trace. The house stands on an eminence, embracing 
a delightful view of the Potomac, with a rich and beau- 
tiful lawn extending in front to the river. 

The Tomb of Washington is visited as an interest- 
ing object of contemplation. The Old Tomb, so called, 
in which the remains were originally interred, is fast 
going to decay ; but the new tomb, more remote from 
the river, the construction of which was commenced by 



}0 Al.EXANDUlA. 

the General prcviouc to Ins decoase, and into Avhich 
liis remains were removed in IS30, is of solid and en- 
during materials. Here slumber in peaceful silence 
the ashes of the great and patriotic Father of Liberty. 
No monument has yet been erected to his memory ; 
and the only inscription on the tomb is the following : 
** I am the resurrection and the life." 

Alexanduia, an incorporated city, miles farther, 
on the west hank of the river, is a place of extensive 
business and of fashionable resort during the sittinps 
of congress. It contains a court house, 6 churches and 
a theological seminary. 

The Museum at this place, among other things, con- 
tains an elegant satin robe, scarlet on one side and white 
on the other, in which Gen. Washington was baptized ; 
a penhiife, with a pearl handle, given to him by his 
mother when he was in his twelfth year, ;ind wliich he 
kept fifty-six years ; a pearl hultcn, from the coat ho 
■wore at his first inauguration as President of the Uni- 
ted States in the old City Hall, New-York ; a black 
glcve, worn by him while in mourning for his mother ; 
part of the last stick of sealing icax which he used ; the 
07'iginal of the last letter written by him, being a polite 
apology, in behalf of himself and Mrs. Wasliington, for 
declining an invitation to a ball at Alexandria ; it is 
penned with singular neatness, accuracy and precision, 
and contains this exj)ression : " Alas ! our dancing 
days are over ;" a beautiful masonic apron, with the bolt 
of scarlet satin and the white kid gloves worn by liini 
the last time he shared in the social ceremonies of the 
" mystic tie." 



WASHIXCTON CITY. 41 

The country between this city and the capital is but 
thinly inhabited, and the soil poor and unproductive ; 
but the road is good, and a ride to Alexandria consti- 
tutes one of tlie amusements of a winter at Wash- 
ington. 

WASHINGTON CITY 

Is G miles from Alexandria. As the seat of govern- 
ment of the Union, it is a place of much resort during 
the session of congress in the vvinter ; but is mostly de- 
serted bv strangers in the summer. It is situated on the 
Maryland side of the Potomac, and on a point of land 
formed by the junction of the Eastern Branch. The 
District of Columbia in which the city is located, was 
ceded to the United States by Maryland and Virginia 
in 1790, and in 1800 it became the seat of the general 
government. This District is about 10 miles square, 
lying on both sides of the Potomac, and is under the 
immediate direction of congress. 

The original plan of Washington when completed, 
its public edifices, and the elegance of its situation, will 
render it one of the most splendid cities in the world. 

The Capitol stands on a high and lofty eminence, 
and commands a delightful prospect of the Pennsylva- 
nia Avenue, the President's House, Georgetown and 
the Potomac, the General Post Office, the Navy Yard, 
Greenleaf 's Point, the bridge on the river, and the road 
to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. The capitol is built 
of white free stone, has two wings, and is a very mag- 
nificent edifice. 

The exterior exhibits a rusticated basement, of the 
height of the first story ; the two other stories are com- 



42 WASHINGTON CITT. 

prised in a Corinthian elevation of pilasters and col- 
umns — the columns 30 feet in height, from a noble ad- 
vancing portico on the east, 160 feet in extent — the 
centre of which is crowned with a pediment of 80 feet 
span : a receding loggia of 1 00 feet extent, distinguish- 
es the centre of the west front. 

The building is surrounded by a balustrade of stone, 
and covered with a lofty dome in the centre, and a flat 
dome on each wing. 

The Chamber of the House of Representatives is in the 
2d story of the south wing, and is semicircular, in the 
form of the ancient Grecian theatre ; the chord of the 
longest dimension is 96 feet, and the height to the high- 
est point of the domical ceiling is 60 feet. This room 
is surrounded by 24 columns of variegated native mar- 
ble, or breccia, from the banks of the Potomac, with 
capitals of white Italian marble, carved after a speci- 
men of the Corinthian order, still remaining among the 
ruins of Athens, which stand on a base of free stone, 
and support a magnificent dome painted in a very rich 
and splendid style to represent that of the Pantheon of 
Rome, and executed by an interesting young Italian 
artist, named Bonani, who died a few years ago. In 
the centre of this dome is erected, to admit the light 
from above, a handsome cupola, from which is suspend- 
ed a massy bronze gilt chandeher of immense weight, 
which reaches within ten feet of the floor of the cham- 
ber. The speaker's chair is elevated and canopied, 
and on a level with the loggia or promenade for the 
members, consisting of columns and pilasters of mar- 
ble and stone. Above this, and under a sweeping arch 
near the dome, is placed the model of a colossal figure 



WASHINGTON CITY. 43 

el Liberty, and on the entablature beneath is sculptur- 
ed an American Eagle, In front of the chair and im- 
mediately over the entrance, stands a beautiful statue 
in marble, representing History recording the events of 
the nation. Between the columns is suspended fring- 
ed drapery of crimsoned moreens, festooned near the 
gallery to limit the sound and assist the hearing. A 
magnificent portrait of La Fayette, at full length, paint- 
ed by a French artist, decorates a panel on one side the 
loggia. 

The Senate Chamber in the north wing is of the same 
semicircular form, 75 feet in its greatest length and 45 
high ; a screen of Ionic columns, with capitals after 
those of the temple of Minerva Polias, support a galle- 
ry to the east and form a loggia below, and a new gal- 
lery of iron pillars and railings of light and elegant 
structure projects from the circular walls ,- the dome 
ceiling is enriched with square caissons of stucco. 

The walls are covered with straw colored drapery, 
between small pilasters of marble in the wall. Col- 
vf-Bus of breccia, or Potomac marble, support the east- 
ern craliery. 

T/ic. Rotunda comprehends the spacious area between 
the two winga of the structure, and is of a circular form. 
It is entirely of marble, (and so indeed is every perma- 
nent part of the capitol,) excepting the light doors cov- 
ered with green baize that lead out of it, and the frame 
of the sky hght above. The height of the dome soars 
beyond the roof, and it may well be imagined, is most 
imposing and sublime. The floor is beautifully paved, 
and the sound of a single voice, uttering words in an 
ordinary tone, reverberates aloft like the faint rumbling 

D 



-14 WASHINGTON CITY. 

of distant thunder. When two or more converse, there 
is an incessant roaring, absorbing the entire medium of 
sound. Even the simple touch of a walking stick on 
the pavement directly echoes along the circumference, 
and dies away slowly in the capacious vault ; so ex- 
tremely elastic is the air within. There is nothing that 
equals it in this country ; and, of itself, it well deserves 
a journey to Washington. 

In the niches designedly left about fifteen feet from 
the floor, are four sculptured pieces as large as life, de- 
signed to commemorate the aboriginal character and 
some of the prominent events in the early history of 
the country. The scene of the first device is laid in 
1773, and is designed to represent a fearful contest be- 
tween Daniel Boon, an early settler in one of the west- 
ern states, and an Indian chief. The second represents 
the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth in 16-20. The 
third is a representation of William Penn and two In- 
dian chiefs in a treaty in 1 682, under the memorable 
elm on the right bank of the Delaware, near Philadel- 
phia. And the fourth represents the narrow escape m 
1606 of Capt. John Smith, the first successful acVen- 
turer in Virginia, from the uplifted war-club o»' King 
Powhatan. The figure of Pocahontas, in the attitude 
of supplicating the mercy of her father in behalf of the 
intended victim, is beautifully wrought, and the whole 
exhibits much elegance of desig-n and workmanship. 
In the remaining niches, which are designed to be filled 
with paintings, are already placed the following, exe- 
cuted by the late Col. Trumbull, one of the aids of Gen. 
Washington: The Declaration of Independence ; Sur- 
render of Gen. Borgoyne ; Surrender of Cornwallis at 



WASHINGTON CITY. 15 

Yorktovvn ; and the Resignation of Gen. Washington 
at Annapolis, Dec. 23, 1783. The figures in these 
paintings are full length, and are said to be excellent 
likenesses. The designs and execution are admirable, 
and exhibit the great and almost unrivalled talent of 
the artist. 

The Library. — Passing from the Rotunda, westerly, 
along the gallery of the principal stairs, the Library 
room door presents itself. This room is 92 feet long, 
34 wide, and 36 high. It is divided into twelve arched 
alcoves, ornamented with fluted pilasters, copied from 
the pillars in the celebrated Octagon Tower at Athens. 
At the entrance, in the centre of the room, which is 
approached from the great central Rotunda, are two 
columns of stone, with capitals corresponding with 
those of the pilasters, and immediately opposite and 
fronting the window which leads into the western col- 
onnade, stand two similar columns of stone. These 
pillars, with alcoves, support two galleries, extending 
nearly the whole length of the room on both sides, and 
divided into the same number of shelved recesses as the 
lower apartment. From these recesses springs the arch 
which forms the ceiling, elegantly ornamented with rich 
stucco borders, panels, and wreaths of flowers. On 
the roof, which is about ten feet above the ceiling, are 
three sky lights, the walls of which are beautifully 
decorated with stucco ornaments. The principal apart- 
ments, as well as the committee rooms on the north 
attached to it, are handsomely furnished with sofas, 
mahogany tables, desks, Brussels carpeting, &c. 

This extensive collection of books contains at present 
about fourteen thousand volumes, in various languages* 



46 WASHINGTON CITT. 

The library is well chosen. The classical department,, 
in particular, comprises many rare books. Mr. JefFer- 
soi'j's arrangement of them is still preserved, founded, 
it is presumed, on Bacon's classification of science ; 
and they are divided into chapters, according to the 
subjects to which they relate. 

Besides the principal rooms above mentioned, two 
others deserve notice, from the peculiarity of their 
architecture — the round apartment under the Rotunda, 
enclosing forty columns supporting ground arches, 
which form the floor of the Rotunda. This room is 
similar to the substrxictions of the European Cathe- 
drals, and may take the name of Crypet from them. 
The other room is used by the Supreme Court of the 
United States, and is of the same style of architecture, 
with a bold and curious arched ceiling — the columns of 
these rooms are of massy Dorick, imitated from the 
temples of Postum. Twenty-five other rooms, of 
various sizes, are appropriated to the officers of the 
two houses of congress and of the Supreme Court, and 
45 to the use of committees ; they are all vaulted and 
floored with brick and stone. Three principal stair 
cases are spacious and varied in their form ; these, with 
the vestibules and numerous corridors or passages, it 
would be difficult to describe inteUigibly. We will 
only say, that they are in conformity to the dignity of 
the building and style of the parts already named. 

The East Front presents three marble figures, rep- 
resenting the Genius of America, Hope and Justice. 
They are executed with much taste and judgment, and 
present an imposing appearance. 






WASHINGTON CITY. 47 

i-ioiuing the ciipitol, towards the Pennsylvania Ave- 
nue, and within an oblong marble vase, is a naval mon- 
ument, orio^inally erected at the navy yard, in memory 
of the American officers who fell in the Tripolitan war. 
It is a simple column, wrought in Italy at the expense 
of the survivors. 

The Presidents House, which is also constructed of 
white free stone, two stories high, with four spacious 
buildings* near it for the accommodation of the heads 
of department, make together an interesting spectacle 
for the visitant. 

Perhaps there is no spot in the United States that 
holds out more inducements to a traveller than this city 
during the sessions of congress. It is the theatre on 
which the pride and powder of tlie American nation are 
congregated to control the destinies of a mighty people. 
It is the residence of all the foreign ministers, and era- 
braces a large portion of the gay and fashionable world. 
The levees at the house of the president are fascinat- 
ing ; and the apartments on these occasions are open 
and accessible to every citizen of the republic. 

Among other places of interest at and near Washing- 
ton, and which deserve the attention of visitants, are 
the Navy Yard ; the Columbian College, situate on a 
high range of ground north of the city and about a 
mile from the President's House, and the National 
Burying Ground about a mile south-east of the capitol. 

The ground on which Washington is built is high, 
airy and salubrious ; and the city, from the extent of its 



* One of these buildings, occupied by the department 
of state, v/as burnt in 1833. 



48 GEORGETOWN. 

territory, presents the appearance of several distinct 
villages. It is however raoidly increasing and improv- 
ing, and contained in 1830 a population of" 18,837. 

Its principal i)u])r!c houses are the National Hotel, 
one of the most splendid in the United States ; the In- 
dian Cluecn Hotel ; and the Mansion Hotel. They 
are all located on the Pennsylvania Avenue. 

There is a bridge across the Potomac, opposite 
Washington, which was completed in 1835. It is one 
mile in length, including the abutments ; 2000 feet of 
which are solid embankment of stone and gravel. The 
other portions are founded on oak piles driven into the 
bed of the stream. It has draws for the passage of 
vessels, GO feet in width ; so that its construction does 
not materially interfere with the navigation of the river. 
Its cost was about $130,000. 

Georgetown is on the same side of the Potomac 
with Washington, at the distance of 3 miles west of the 
capitol. It is very pleasantly situated, and is a place of 
considerable trade. The country around it is richly di- 
versified, and the location of the Catholic Monastery 
is very delightful. It stands on the borders of " the 
heights," in the north west part of the town, and over- 
looks the body of the town below. The enclosure em- 
braces about one acre. On the north side is the acade- 
my conducted by the nuns, consisting of a long range 
of buildings three stories high. In the middle of the 
front or eastern side stands the chapel. On the left of 
the chapel is the room of the father confessor, and also 
the private apartment of the nuns, into which no unhal- 
lowed tread of the worldly and profane is ever admitted. 



rrEOIlGETOWX. 4^ 

The Academy, or High School for Ladies, is the 
most interesting appendage of the convent. It contains 
a boarding school of upwards of one hundred pupils, 
and a free or charity school of a much larger number of 
day scholars. What strikes the visitor with most pleas- 
ure is the perfect system and order with which every 
thing is done. The young misses who compose the 
school are regularly and rigidly trained to do every 
thing on plan and method. 

The seminary is divided into four classes. The hall 
of the first class contains an extensive cabinet of min- 
erals, to which many rare and valuable specimens have 
been presented by the officers of our navy, and by cath^ 
olics of the eastern world. It has also many rich 
specimens of art ; the contributions of wealthy and 
powerful patrons of the Church. The sword, sheath 
and belt of Iturbide, once a hero of South America, two 
of whose daughters are 'now in this convent, were 
presented to the cabinet by Commodore Rodgers. 
It also claims to have many sacred relics, such as shreds 
or scraps from the garments of numerous saints — frag- 
ments from the church and tomb of St. Peter, and of 
other saints — pieces of the wood of the cross, &c. &c. 

The number of nuns in this convent, at present, is 
about sixty. Among them are descendants of rich and 
powerful families. Their employment consists in con- 
fessions, vigils, fasts, penances, reading and religious 
exercises, in teaching, in domestic concerns, and in 
making fine needle-work for sale. The charity school 
embraces about 200 day pupils. For their humanity 
and benevolence in collecting and teaching these chil- 
dren, the nuns deserve praise. In these employments 



50 CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO CANAT.. 

they appear happy ; but the happiness of these devo- 
tees, if real, must be of the negative kind. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal was commenced 
on the 4th of July, 1828, but has not been prosecuted 
with the vigor originally contemplated. It is to extend 
from Georgetown, D. C, to near Pittsbnrgh, Penii., 
where it is to unite with the Pennsylvania canal and 
the Ohio river; its length 360 miles, and its lockage 
4004 feet. It was completed in 1835 to Williamsport, 
104 miles from Geor|retown, and is to be iinished the 
present season (1837) to Cumberlund, 81 miles farther. 
Its dimensions are 60 feet in width at the surface and 
42 feet at bottom, with a depth of 6 feet, affbrdinx! 
ample space for canal boats of the largest class. The 
rugged country through which it passes ; the solid and 
beautiful masonry of the locks and aqueducts — all con- 
spire to impress upon the traveller a high sense of the 
skill of the engineers and of the enterprise of the com- 
pany, which has persevered in the work under so manv 
appalling difficulties. The aqueducts over the Seneca 
and MouocacY creeks are perhaps not exceeded by any 
thing in this country, for beauty and lightness of de- 
sign and solidity of construction. The wildness of tfu- 
scenery around sets off to greater advantage these 
triumphs of art over nature. It is, however, from the 
Point of Ilocus to Harper's Ferry, 12 miles, that the 
greatest difficulties have been encountered. For this 
distance tl;e Baltimore and Olno rail road runs parallel 
to, and in contact with the canal — the bank of the latter 
forming ths bed of the fovmor. Both works are carried 
iof Hiiiiea Uiiuer precipito.us crags, many hirad red feet 



FKOM WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE. 51 

h.gh, and Whose very foundations have been cut away 
to fonn a shell for the road, while the canal is made to 
encroach on the bed of the nvev. The scenery itself m 
ffrand and imposing, and when viewed in connection 
with the monuments of human genius and perseverance 
which are seen at the base of the cl.lTs, it assumes the 
character of subhmity. He must indeed have a dal 
spirit, wlio, carried along by boat or car, can view it 
unmoved. For miles the traveller is carried alongside 
and under these tremendous precipices, the walls of the 
everlasting granite being within reach of his hand, and 
the perpendicular view of the sky not unfrequently 
obscured by the overjntting crags. On this part of the 
route the rail road company, by an arrangement with 
the canal company, are prohibited from using steam. 

FROM WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE, 

40 miles. 
The route is by the Washington rail road, which 
commences at the north-east part of the city, and m its 
course to Baltimore, approaches within sight of Bla- 
densburo-h, 4 miles from Washington ; crosses the Pa- 
tuxent rWer 13 miles farther ; crosses the Patapsco riv- 
er, on a noble and lofty viaduct, 15 miles farther, and 
unites with the Baltimore and Ohio rail road at Elk- 
ridge Landino-, which latter road is taken for a distance 
of 8 miles to Baltimore. The road is made in a very 
permanent and enduring manner ; and though over a 
rouffh and undulating country, its acclivities do not av- 
erage more than 20 feet per mile. Its cost was about 
$1,500,000. Locomotive engines are almost exclusive- 



^^ BALTIMORE. 

ly used, and the time employed in passing between the 
two cities is generally about 2^ hours. 

BALTIMORE.* 

The rapid growth and present extent and population 
ofthis city is truly remarkable, and to be ascribed no 
less to the spirit of enterprize which has always char- 
terized its inhabitants, than to the natural advantages 
of its position. Its scite is on the north side, and^'at 
the head of tide water on the Patapsco river, 14 miles 
above its entrance into the Chesapeake. The centen- 
ary of its existence was celebrated in August, 1829 
On the 8th of that month, in 1729, the first act was 
passed for laying out the town on sixty acres of land 
from which the native forests had then but partially o-iy. 
ed place to the axe and the plough. These sixty acres 
were purchased at 40 shillings per acre, to be paid m 
money, or tobacco at one penny per pound. The pro- 
gress of the city at first was sluggish and unpromising. 
Thirty-three years after its location, (1752,) it contain- 
ed but twenty-five houses, and a small brig and sloop 
wej-e the only vessels owned in the town. Even up to 
1773, the merchants were compelled to send their ad- 
vertisements to Annapolis or Philadelphia, there bcina 
no newspaper then published in Baltimore. Now wifh 
a population of nearly 100,000, it may be considered 
the third city in the union ; whilst for its various man- 
ufactories and public buildings, ornamental to the city 

* For a pnncipal part of the following description of 
Baltimore, the Editor is indebted to John S. Skinner 
Ksq. the P. Master of that city. 



BALTIMORE. 



53 



and remarkable for their costliness, taste and commo- 
diousness, it stands undoubtedly in the first rank for 
enterprise and public spirit. For tobacco and flour, 
Baltimore is the leading market ; for flour, the first in 
the world. Within 20 miles around, the water power 
is almost incalculable. It drives at present more than 
70 flour mills, one of which has turned out 32,000 bar- 
rels in one year. There are, too, within that compass, 
twelve cotton manufactories, keeping in motion 30,000 
spindles, besides manufactories of cloth, powder, pa- 
per, iron, glass, steam engines, extensive chemical 
works, and one mill by steam power for manufactur- 
ing flour and copper, that has turned off" 200 barrels a 
day, and works annually about 600,000 pounds of raw 
copper. Many of these may conveniently be visited by 
sojourners in the city, on foot or by short rides in the 
immediate vicinity. 

The city, as rechartered in 1816, contains 10,000 
acres, and embraces within the limits built upon, a 
court hou.^e, jail, penitentiary, lunatic asylum, two the- 
atres, the largest circus in America, an exchange, an 
observatory founded by the father of the gallant Com- 
modore Porter, two museums, five market houses, ten 
banks, gas works, (the first in this country tor fighting 
the streets and houses,) a public library, a medical col- 
lege, and 45 houses of public worship. 

Most of these establishments would be worthy of the 
regard of tourists. It cannot be expected that we 
should describe them minutel}'^, our object being but 
briefly to indicate their existence ; but almost all stran- 
gers make a visit to the cathedral, the exchange, the 
public fountains, of which there are four tastefully or- 



54 BALTIMORK. 

namented and giving a copious supply oi' pure spring 
water ; the museums, the monuments, and the rail 
roads. 

The Cathedral is built after the Grecian Ionic or- 
der, on a plan drawn by that distinguished and lament- 
ed architect, the late H. B. Latrobe. Its outward length 
is 190 feet, its width 177, and its height to the summit 
of the cross that surmounts the dome is 127 feet. A 
minute description of the numerous ornaments and 
specimens of taste in the fine arts that abound in this 
magnificent building, would be incompatible with the 
plan of this work ; but we may advise the tourist that 
amongst others, it contains the largest organ in the 
United States, Avith 6000 pipes and 36 stops, and two 
very splendid paintings — one the descent from the cross, 
by Paulin Guerin, a present from Louis XVI — anoth- 
er, presented by Louis XVII, representing St. Louis, 
attended by his chaplain and armor-bearer, burying one 
of his officers slain before Tunis, as an cnccuragement 
to his officers and soldiers, who, for fear of contagion, 
would have left their comrades to be devoured by beasts 
and birds of prey.* 

The Merchants' Exchange, built by private sub- 
scription, is another monument to the public spirit of 
the citizens. This edifice, from Water to Second, front- 
ing on Gay-street, is 255 by a depth on the two first of 

* It was in this Cathedral that the funeral honors 
were paid to Charles Carroll, of Carroliton, the last sur- 
viving signer of the Declaration of Independence. He 
died in the city on the 13th Nov. 1832, and his remains 
were conveyed for interment to the vault on the premi- 
ses of the family mansion, about IC miles distant. 



feALTSMOHE. 



55 



Hi feet, and is three stories high exclusive of the base- 
ment. In the centre is the great hall, 86 feet by 53, 
lighted from the dome, which is 90 feet from the floor. 
In this hall, to which they have access by three entran- 
ces from the streets, the merchants convene daily from 
1 to 2 o'clock. 

On a scale corresponding with these bmldings m ex- 
tent and convenience, according to their several de= 
sicrns and objects, the traveller may be edified and 
amused by an inspection of the other public edifices, 
which here we could only designate by name. But m 
any thing like a picture cf Baltimore as a guide for the 
tourist, i's monuments and its rail roads, leading to the 
Ohio and the Susquehannah, are decidedly the most 
striking features. The one called the Battle Monu- 
iviENT,'ln elegant marble structure about 55 feet high, 
was commenced on the site of the old court house in 
Washington Square, on the 12th of September, 1815, 
in memol-y of those who, on the 12th and 13th of the 
same month in the preceding year, had fallen gallantly 
in defence of the city. 

Another splendid monument, called the Washing- 
ton Monument, built of white marble, ornamental to 
the city and honorable to its inhabitants, (but vain as 
an effort to extend the fame of him whose glory is as 
wide and imperishable as the empire of letters,) has 
been erected on an elevation a little north of the com- 
pact part of the city, presented for that purpose by the 
late Col. John E. Howard, the hero of Eutaw and of 
the Cowpens. The base is 50 feet square and 23 high, 
on which is placed another square of about half the 
extent and elevation. On this is a column 20 feet la 



^^ BALTIMORE. 

diameter at the base, and 14 at the top. The colossai 
statue of Washington, the largest one in modern agea, 
IS placed on the summit 163 feet from the ground. This 
monument is to be embellished with has reliefs and 
other decorations. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road commences 
a short distance from the Washington turnpike road 
on West Pratt street, where the company have estab- 
hshed a depot. Under the authority given by the City 
Council, a Ime of railway has also been laid from the 
termination of the main stem of the road, at the Depot, 
down Pratt street (o the Basin, whence it is construct- 
ed to the City Block, and runs parallel with the entire 
water front of the city, communicating wiih all the 
wharves, and intersecting all the principal streets which 
extend north-westerly and southerly, as far down as 
the public property south of Jones' Falls, at which place 
there have been conveyed to the company, by the Cor- 
poration of Baltimore, two squares of the ground, fa- 
vorably situated for the convenient and econom'icaJ 
transactions of an extensive commerce. An uninter- 
rupted communication is thus opened along the whole 
extent of the road, between the Port of Baltimore and 
the Potomac river at Harper's Ferry, a distance of 67| 
miles ; which is extended, by means of the Winchester 
and Potomac rail road, 30 miles farther in a S. W\ di- 
rection to Winchester, Virginia. There is also a lat- 
eral road, 2 or 3 miles long, from Harper's Ferry to the 
city of Frederick. 

A double track has been laid most of the way to 
Frederick, and the travelling and transportation have 



BALTIMORE. 



57 



thus far fully equalled the anticipations of the stock- 

holders. 

A ride as far at least as Ellicott's mills, 13 miles from 
Baltimore, is considered almost a matter of course by 
strangers visiting the city. The scenery on the route, 
being" mostly in the vicinity of the Patapsco river, is 
pictm-esque and interesting. Among the works con- 
nected with the road, the Carrollton Viaduct, over 
Gwynn's Falls, about a mile and a half from the city, 
is one of the most magniticent pieces of architecture in 
America— ahke beautiful in proportion, materials and 
workmanship. This bridge is built of a beautiful gran- 
ite, contains one arch of about 80 feet span and 40 feet 
in height, and is 312 feet in length from end to end of 
the parapets. 

The Jackson Bridge, is a single arch 109 feet long, 
of entirely novel structure, the invention of Col. Long, 
of the company's board of engineers. The Deep Cut 
through a high and broad ridge of land, is about three 
fourths of a mile in length, its greatest depth 70 feet, 
and its width, at the summit of the ridge, 184 feet, 
auantities of carbonized wood were found sixty feet 
below the natural surface, and a stump of a tree with 
its roots at forty feet. The entire excavation is 2G3,- 
848 cubic yards. The Great Emhankment at Gadsby's 
Run, five miles from Baltimore, is nearly a mile in 
length, its greatest elevation 56 feet, and its greatest 
width 191 feet. At the top the usual width of 26 feet 
is preserved for a double set of rails. Gadsbfs Run 
Viaduct affords a passage to the waters of the run 
through the embankment. The arch, composed of 
dyessed granite blocks, is of the extraordinary width of 



53 BALTIMORjt;. 

120 feet from opening to opening. The Patterson Via' 
duct is an immense structure of granite, by which the 
road is carried to the opposite bank of the Patapsco. It 
is built of granite blocks, from one to seven tons in 
weight, and its entire length is 375 feet. It has four 
beautiful arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 
feet, with extensive wings and water walls, abutments, 
&c. The heighth from the water to the crown of the 
arches is 30 feet. The corner stone of this structure 
was laid on the 6th May, 1829, and on the 4th of De- 
cember it was crossed on horseback by William Pat- 
terson, Esq. for whom the honor had been reserved, and 
whose name it bears. It embraces nearly 10,000 per- 
ches of masonry. Besides these are the embankments 
at Stillhouse Run, two granite viaducts, the rock-side 
cutting at Buzzard's Kock, &c. 

The Baltimore and Susquehannah Rail Road, 
extending from Baltimore to York Haven, on the Sus- 
quehannah river, a distance of 60 miles, is also a work 
of much utility to Baltimore, and worthy the attention 
of tourists. 

For its houses for the accommodation of travel- 
lers, Baltimore is not remarkable, except for its Citt 
Hotel. This is one of the most splendid edifices of 
its kind in the union. It is centrally and most con- 
veniently situated, presenting a front on Calvert street 
of 117 feet, running back 183 — taking in two spacious 
buildings formerly occupied as private residences, so 
connected with the establishment as to afford two dis- 
tinct private entrances on Fayette street, which lead to 
thirteen parlors arranged expressly for the accommoda- 
tion of private families, with chambers so connecter 



BALTIMORE. 



59 



with them as to make them as convenient for ladies 
and children as any private house. The City Hotel 
contains 172 apartments, and was built expressly for a 
hotel, under the direction of its experienced proprietor, 
Mr. Barnum. In the basement of the building on Cal- 
vert street is situated the Post Office, into which the 
traveller may deposit his letters by a conduit from the 
large Reading Room above, where he can peruse, gra- 
tuitously, the papers from all parts of the union. To 
all other conveniences combined in this estabhshment 
which travellers can desire, is added an observatory on 
the top of it, constructed expressly to afford to its guests 
views of the Harbor and Fort M'Henry, and the town, 
and the country seats that surround it. 

The Indian CIueen, the next largest estabhshment, 
is well and liberally kept by Mr. Beltzhover, its oblig- 
ing and popular tenant. 

And here we may close a sketch of this patriotic 
city by the remark, that it is in nothing more distin- 
guished from our other large cities, than by the beauty 
of its environs. A succession of elevated sites rising 
one above another encircle it from the Philadelphia 
road on the east to the Washington turnpike on the 
west. From these eminences the stranger obtains, at a 
single coup cVml, a view of the town and its numerous 
approaches by land and water, its monuments, its 
domes, its steeples and its towers. 

Some of these heights are crowned with private resi- 
dences, displaying all the taste and magnificence that 
characterize the seats of European opulence and refine- 
ment. Of these, the most expensively embeUished and 
conspicuous is " Green Mount," the elegant summer 
k2 



GO FEOM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

retreat of a gentleman whose taste and hospitality hap- 
pily correspond with his ample possessions. To the 
splendid mansion, with all its incidental accommoda- 
tions, on the most extensive and liberal scale, is con- 
nected a circular promenade of three quarters of a mile 
in length, overshadowed by trees from every clime, 
tempting to healthful exercise, and offering on either 
hand every variety of fruit and flower that cultivated 
nature has prepared to delight the eye and gratify the 
palate. Whilst for the benevolent proprietor a senti- 
ment of universal and profound respect consecrates his 
100 acres that border on this Hne of the city, guarding 
them from the hand of depredation, strangers entitled 
to consideration visit Green Mount witiiout difficulty, 
and admire it without measure. 

FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA, 

115^ miles. 
The route is by steam-boat and rail road,* as follows : 



J\Iiles. 
By Stsam-hoat. 
From Baltimore to 

Fort ?vl'Henry, 3 

Sparrow's Point, 6 

North Point, 4 

Miller's Island, 8 

Pool's Island, S 

Grove Point, 16 

Turkey Point, 6 

French Town, 13 



Miles. 
By rail road 
From French Town, 
Md. to New Cas- 
tle, Del 16i 

By Steam-boat. 
Christiana Creek, Del, 5 
Marcus Hook, Penn . . 8 

Chester, 4 

Lazaretto, 5 

Fort Mifflin, 5 

Philadelphia, 8 

This route is usually travelled in from 9 to 10 hours. 



* An entire route by rail road between the cities, by 
the way of Havre de Grace and Wilmington, is now in 



FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 61 

North Point, 13 miles from Baltimore, is the spot 
where the British troops landed in Sept. 1814, and 
where a battle was fought, simultaneous with a naval 
attack on Fort M'Henry. The engagement resulted 
in the defeat of the British, and the death of their com- 
mander, Gen. Ross. 

From this point until reaching Turkey Pomt, at the 
mouth of Elk river, the Chesapeake presents a broad 
expanse and beautiful sheet of water, interspersed with 
an occasionl island ; of which Pool's is the largest 
and the most picturesque. On approaching the mouth 
of the Elk river, the broad entrance of the Susquehan- 
nah is seen at the left; near which is discerned the 
villao-e of Havre de Grace, which was burnt during the 
last war. Eight miles from Turkey Point, up the Elk 

progress, and will ultimately be effected Tt will not 
Snly shorten the route about 20 miles, but will obviate 
many of the difliculties of a winter passage through the 
Chesapeake Bay and up the Delaware river The citv 
of Wilmington, on this route, is a port of entr>, and 
the largest town in the state of Delaware It is situ- 
ated between Christiana and Brandywine Creeks one 
mile above their confluence, and two miles west of the 
Delaware river. The great facilities afforded here make 
itanimoortant manufacturing toun ; it having sorr,e 
of the finest flouring mills and cotton factories in the 
union. It contains from 10 to 12,000 inhabitants a 
spacious alms house, 3 banks, a U-S arsenal, and 9 
churches. An ancient building, called the oM Swedish 
church, erected in 1698, stands near the Christiana 
creek in this town; opposite to which is an ancien 
church yard, used by the first settlers of the place. U 
contains a few tomb stones, the inscriptions of which 
are nearly defaced by the hand of time. 



62 FnOM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

river, the entrance of Back creek, connected with the 
Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, is seen at the right.* 
At French Town, passengers leave the steam boat 
(their baggage having been previously placed in bag- 
gage waggons,) and take the carriages of the Rail 
Road, which extends to New Castle, on the Delaware, 
a distance of 16^ miles, being but 853 yards more than 
would be a perfectly straight line drawn from one end 
to the other. It is composed of six curves and six 
straight lines, three of the curves deflecting to the north 

* Until the construction of the French Town and 
New Castle rail road, the route of travellers was o-ene- 
rally through this canal, in packets fitted up for the'pur- 
pose. It is now, however, used principallv for sloops 
plying between the Chesapeake Bay and Delaware 
river. Back Creek, a narrow and tortuous stream, is 
pursued for 3 miles to a village called Chesapeake c'ity 
where the canal commences, which is 14 miles lono- 33 
feet wide at the bottom, and 60 feet at the surface?' It 
is calculated for the passage of vessels drawing 8 feet 
of water, though the banks are constructed so as to re- 
tain 10 feet, if necessary. There are two tide and two 
lift locks, and the summit level is a little more than 9 
miles long, and 10 feet above ordinary flood tide. Be- 
tween 2 and 3 miles from Chesapeake village com- 
mences what is called the Dtep Cut. Its length is 
nearly four miles, and the embankments vary from 8 
to 70 feet in heighth. To furnish something of an idea 
of the magnitude of the work, it is stated that the earth 
excavated to form this part of the canal and the neces- 
sary drains was more than 90 millions of cubic feet. 
At the greatest elevation a most imposing work, called 
Summit Bridge, has been extended'across. It is built 
on a hard firm bank where the original surface attains 
an elevation of 65 feet, above which the abutments are 
built 20 feet in thickness. The sides of the canai 



FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. (i> 

and three to the south. At two points the excavation 
was attended with great difficulty and expense, especially 
at the western termination of the road, where the cut- 
ting was 37 feet deep, through a solid mass of tough 
red'^and black clay for a considerable distance. 

The superstructure of the road is formed partly of 
stone blocks, and partly of substantial white oak sleep- 
ers, upon which are laid and secured in the most ap- 
proved manner, the string pieces or rails, of Georgia 
pitch pine, 6 inches square; on the top of these are 

below the abutments are projected by a slope wall laid 
from the bottom of the canal to the top of the bank 
from six to two feet in thickness. The floor ot the 
bridcre is SO feet above the bottom of the canal; ex- 
trcm'e length 2S0 feet. Independently of the interest 
excited by the bridge, the view of the canal from its 
commanding height is grand beyond description. A 
flight of steps has been erected, to facilitate the ascent 
from the tow path up the bank. 

After leavins the Deep Cut, the canal enters what 
is called The ''Old Mill Pond, three miles beyond the 
Cranberry Marshes. Three miles farther are the bt. 
George's Marshes, the formingof the banks of the canal 
through which was an immense labor. The specihc 
o-ravifv of the earth used for the purpose exceeding that 
of the surrounding marshes, it sunk in many places as 
fast as it could be^carted on, and in some 'nstances it is 
calculated to have aone to a depth of nom oO to 80 teet, 
and in one place 100 feet below the original surface, 
raising many acres of the adjacent marshes several feet 
above their original level. 

At the eastern termination of the canal, the City of 
Delaware has sprung up like many of the flourishing 
villages on the banks of the Erie canal m New- York, 
and will probably become a place of considerable un- 
portance. 



64 FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

fastened the iron bars 2| inches wide by fths of an 
inch thick, with iron plates beneath them at the points 
oi their junction. 

The blocks are laid three feet apart /rom centre fo 
centre, and bedded in holes two feet deep and two feet 
square, upon pure sand or gravel well rammed ; and 
where sleepers are used, on the embankments, &c. they 
are laid at the same distance apart, on sills of hemlock, 
four inches thick by eightinches wide, placed longitudi- 
nally, which are, in like manner, bedded in trenches fill- 
ed with sand or gravel well rammed-these substances 
being supposed to furnish the surest safeguard against 
injury from frost. 

The total cost of the Newcastle and French Town 
railroad, mcluding the land for its location, wharves 
land at depots and both ends, locomotive engines, pas-' 
senger and burthen cars sufficient to put it in complete 
operation, with a single truck and the requisite number 
oi turn outs, has been estimated at about four hundred 
t nous and dollars. 

The road was commenced in July, 1830, and com- 
pletedin 1832. 

The ancient town of New Castle, at which the road 
terminates, still retains one of its original buildings, the 
date of which, in figures of iron on the gable end, shows 
thatit was erected in 1687. The town was settled by the 
fewedes, many of whose descendants still continue to 
reside there, and retain the plain frank manner and 
thinking habits of their ancestors. By means of a loco- 
motive engine, passengers are enabled to cross the 
pemnsula in one hour with ease, thereby shortening 
the time between Baltimore and Philadelphia 2| hours. 



PttlLADELPtifA, 65 

At New Castle, a steam boat is again taken, which 
proceeds up the Delaware 35 miles, passing the city ot 
Wilmington, which is seen at a distance on the left, 
and the villages of Chester, Lazaretto, Fort Mi{H!n on 
an island in the Delaware, and Gloucester, to 

PHILADELPHIA, 

The flourishing capital of Pennsylvania. It stands 
on the west bank of the river Delaware, five miles from 
its confluence with the Schuylkill, which forms its wes- 
tern boundary. This city v/as founded in 1682, and 
incorporated in 1701. The charter being abrogated at 
the revolution, it remained under a provincial govern- 
ment till 1789, when it was incorporated a second time. 
Its population in 1830, including its suburbs, was 167,- 
811. The city is built on streets from 50 to 100 feet in 
width, running parallel and at right angles to each other. 
They are handsomely paved and are kept remarkably 
clean. The houses exhibit an appearance of neatness, 
uniformity and commodiousness, and many of them are 
ornamented with white marble. xVgainst the city, 
which is 90 miles distant from the sea, the Delaware is 
about a mile wide, and is navigable for ships of a large 
size. The most conspicuous buildings are the churches, 
the state house, the United States and Pennsylvania 
Banks, the Girard Bank, and the Institution for the 
Deaf and Dumb. The Bank of the U. S. was estab- 
Hshed in the year 1816, with a capital of ^$35,000,000 ; 
but its charter not having been renewed at its expira- 
tion in 1836, it was incorporated by the state of Penn- 
sylvania in the early part of that year. The banking 
house is a splendid structure, built on the plan of the 



6o iPHILADELifMlA. 

Parthenon at Athens, and is situated in a north and 
south direction, fronting on Chestnut and Library 
streets, having 8 fluted cohimns, 4 feet 6 inches in di- 
ameter, embracincr the whole front. From each of the 
fronts are porticos, projecting 10 feet 6 inches. The 
whole length of the edifice, including the portico, is 161 
feet, and its breadth in front 87 feet. The main en- 
trance is from Chestnut street, by a flight of six marble 
steps, extending along the whole front of the portico. 
The banking room occupies the centre of the building, 
being 48 feet wide and 81 feet long. The whole body 
of the building.is arched in a bomb proof manner, from 
the cellar to the roof, which is covered with copper. 

There are in this city 90 houses for public worship ; 
14 banks, 7 insurance companies, a custom house, an 
exchange, and a chamber of commerce. 

The New Bank of Pennsylvania is an extensive 
and elegant edifice of marble, of the Ionic order, and 
constructed after the model of the ancient temple of the 
muses, on the Ilyssus. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital is one of the oldest 
and most respectable institutions of that description in 
the Union. 

The State House, in which the continental congress 
sat, and from whence the Declaration of Independence 
issued, is still standing. It is located in Chestnut street, 
is built of brick, comprising a centre and two wings, 
and has undergone no material alteration since its first 
erection. It has a venerable appearance, and is sur- 
mounted by a cupola, having a clock, the dial of which 
is glass, and is illuminated at night until 10 or 11 
o'clock, showing the hour and minutes until that tirae» 



PHILADELPHIA. 67 

Tiie front is a considerable distance back from the 
street, the walk being paved to the curb-stone with 
brick, and two elegant rows of trees extending its whole 
length. East of the main entrance, in the front room, 
the .sessions of congress were held, and the question of 
independence decided. The declaration was first pub- 
licly read from the balcony fronting the spacious park 
in the rear. 

The Arcade in Philadelphia, like that at N. York, 
has proved a bad speculation — though the former is 
twice the size of the latter, and appears to be more de- 
serted. It contains Peale's Museum, one of the best in 
the United States, comprising the most complete skel- 
eton of the Mammoth perhaps in the world. It is per- 
fect, with the exception of a few bones, which have 
been supplied by imitating the others. This skeleton 
was found in Ulster county, New-York. 

The Academy op Arts, in Chestnut-street, contains 
a large number of paintings, several of which are the 
property of Joseph Bonaparte. Among these is one, 
executed by David, representing Napoleon crossing the 
Alps. Another is a full length portrait of Joseph him- 
self, as king of Spain. 

The U. S. Mint, established here, is in a new and 
handsome edifice recently constructed for that pur- 
pose. 

The City Library was first established through the 
enterprise and influence of Franklin in 1731. It is 
located in a neat and ornamental edifice on the east side 
of Fifth street, opposite the State House Square, and 
contains about 24,000 volumes, besides the Loganian 

9 



^3 



PHILADELPHIA. 



library of ancient classics of about 1 1,000 volumes, uri- 
der the same roof. 

The AxHEXEUMjOn the second floor of the Philosoph- 
ical Hall ill Fifth street, contains 5300 volumes and a 
variety of newspapers from various piarts of the union. 
There are also deposited here a series of rare and valu- 
able pamphlets, forming 140 volumes, which belonged 
to Doct. Franklin; many of which are enriched with 
his MS. notes. Strangers are admitted to this insti- 
tution, on being introduced by a subscriber, and a re- 
gister of their names is kept. 

1 he .hnerican Philosophical Society was founded iri 
1743, principally by the exertions of Doct. Fra,nklin, 
The members have a large and commodious building 
on a part of the State House Square, in which they have 
deposited about 6000 volumes of valuable books, and a 
collection of objects of natural history, consisting prin- 
cipally of minerals and fossil remains. The Presidents 
of the society have been Benjamin Franklin, David 
Rittenhouse, Thomas Jefferson, Caspar Wistar, Rob- 
ert Patterson and William Tilghman. 

The University of Pennsylvania is situated in 
Ninth street, between Chestnut and Market streets. It 
was founded in 1750, and is in a highly prosperous and 
flourishing condition. 

GiRARD College. This splendid edifice is situated 
on the Pcidge Road, on a site owned by the late Stephen 
Girard, and devised by him for that purpose. To his 
munificence, indeed, are the public indebted for the 
structure and for a fund for its maintenance. The 
building is 111 by 1G9 feet, 3 stories high, and is sur- 
rounded by a portico 21 feet wide, giving to the whole a 



PHILADELPHIA. 69 

neatness and elegance highly creditable to the taste of 
those who had the matmgemciit of its construction. 

Wills' Hospital, erected pursuant to the will of the 
late James Wills, for the reception of the lame and 
blind, is located on Race street, between Schuylkill 
fourth and tifth streets, and is a handsome stone edifice, 
80 feet in front. 

The United States' Naval Asylum is situated on 
the river Schuylkill, a short distance below the junction 
of South street with Gray's ferry road. It is 385 
feet in front, including a central building, and is an im- 
posing and chaste edifice. It is designed as a place of 
permanent abode for such of the ofiicers, seamen and 
marines of the navy as may need a home in their retire- 
ment from its service. It is sufficiently capacious to 
accommodate 400. 

The New Alms House consists of four distinct edi- 
fices disposed at right angles with one another, enclos- 
ing an interior space of 700 by 500 feet. The location 
of these buildings is on the west bank of the Schuylkill 
river. The grounds appended to the establishment are 
spacious, and the arrangements such as might be anti- 
cipated from the hospitality and benevolence for which 
the inhabitants of this city have become so proverbial. 

The Philadelphia Exchange is situated on a trian- 
gular piece of ground, bounded by Third, Walnut and 
Dock streets, and is one of themost beautiful specimens 
of Grecian architecture ever executed in America, 
representing in its appearance tlie celebrated Lantern 
of Demosthenes at Athens. The basement contains 
the post office and several insurance and other offices. 
The e^ichange room, which is bold and effective, occu-. 



70 PHILADI?LPH1A. 

pies the eastern end of the principal story, extending 
across the v/hole building, and is approached by flights 
of steps on each side of the semicircular basement, and 
from the hall in the basement story. The eastern por- 
tico forms an interesting promenade for those who visit 
the Exchange. From it may be seen the shippintr at 
Walnut street vvliarf, the custom house, the Girard 
bank, and the Pennsylvania bank. The reading room 
is adjacent to the exchange room, and is supplied with 
a great variety of papers. The foundation of this edifice, 
which was built by the merchants of Philadelphia, was 
laid in 1832. It is a noble structure, and worthy of the 
munificence and enterprise of its pubhc "spirited found- 
ers. From this point omnibuses can be taken at all 
times for various parts of the city. 

Of the public works of Philadelphia, there are none of 
which its inhabitants are more justly proud than those 
at Fair Mount, by which the city is supplied with wa- 
ter of the best quality, in the greatest plenty. Fair 
Mount is in the rear of the city upon the bank of the 
Schuylkill, the neighborhood of which affords a variety 
of romantic scenery. The situation is such as pecu- 
liarly adapts it for the purpose to which it has been de- 
voted. The reservoirs are situated on the top of a hill 
rising from the river, a part of it perpendicular rock, up- 
wards of one hundred feet. The ascent from the river 
to the reservoirs is by a flight of substantial wooden 
steps, with resting places, over one of which is a tem- 
ple. The reservoirs, which are surrounded with a pale 
fence, outside of which is a gravelled walk, contain up- 
wards of twelve miUions of gallons, supplying the city 
through between 15 and 20 miles of pipes. The water 



PHILADELPHIA. 71 

was formerly forced to the reservoirs by steam, which 
is no longer used ; it is now raised by machinery pro- 
pelled by the Schuylkill. The machinery is simple, 
and is turned by lar^e water wheels, of which there are 
five, one of them of iron of 24 tons weight. Their speed 
may be graduated to any required number of revolu- 
tions per minute ; and if all are in motion, they will 
raise seven millions of gallons in 24 hours. To turn 
them, the Schuylkill has been dammed its wholebreadth, 
by which the water is thrown back into a reservoir 
lock, whence it is admitted as required to operate upon 
the wheels, and is discharged into the river below the 
dam. The whole expense of these works, including 
estimated cost of works abandoned, was $!il,783,000. 
That required to keep them in operation is compara- 
tively trifling. The quantity of water thus disseminated 
through the city, is not only sufficient for every family, 
but is used to wash the streets. It is of immense 
service in case of fire, as it is only necessary to screw 
the hose to hydrants, which are placed at convenient 
distances, to secure a constant stream of sufficient force 
to reach an ordinary height. 

The Navy Yard (on the Delaware) receives the vis- 
its of strangers more particularly in consequence of the 
immense vessel, the Pennsylvania, there constructing. 
Her length on deck is 225 feet, and her breadth 53 feet. 
She is large enough to carry 2000 men— a larger 
number than the whole American army that fought and 
gained the battle of Chippewa, and greater than the pop- 
ulation of a considerable sized country town. She is of 
the burthen of 3000 tons, and could, if loaded with flour, 
carry a cargo of thirty thousand barrels, enough to sup- 
f2 



72 PHILADELPHIA. 

ply bread for fifteen thousand people for a whole year. 
She is to carry UO guns, 32 pounders, so that every time 
she discharges a full broadside, she will dispose of pre- 
cisely a ton of bullets. She will draw 28 feet of water, 
and thus find it difficult to navigate in shoal rivers. 
One of her anchors, to be seen in the yard, is said to be 
the largest in the world, weighing 11,669 pounds, which 
is something more than five tons. 

The New Penitentiary, located on elevated ground 
near the city, is designed to carry the principle of soli- 
tary confinement completely into effect. Ten acres of 
land are occupied for the purpose, forming a square of 
650 feet each way, and enclosed by massy walls of 
granite, 3i feet high, with towers and battlements. The 
prison is in the centre of the square, and is admirably 
calculated for the purpose for which it was designed. 
The expense incurred in its erection was upwards of 
$300,000. 

The principal Hotels in the city are, the United States 
Hotel, opposite the TJ. S. Bank in Chestnut street ; 
Congress Hall, Chestnut street, near Third ; Tremont 
House, between Third and Fourth streets ; City Ho- 
tel, Third street, between Market and Arch ; North 
American Hotel, Chestnut street, between Sixth and 
Seventh ; Mansion House Hotel, Third street, between 
Walnut and Spruce ; Red Lion Inn, Market street, 
between Sixth and Seventh ; Commercial Hotel, Chest- 
nut street ; White Swan Hotel, Race street, between 
Third amd Fourth ; Indian dueen Hotel, Fourth st. ; 
Washington Hotel, do.; Philadelphia Hotel, Second 
street ; Second Street House, do, ; Third Street House, 



PHTLADELPHIA. 73 

Third Street ; Broad Street House, Broad street ; Phil- 
adelphia House, Chestnut street. 

Private Boarding Houses.— Mrs. Cv'im, 108 Walnut 
street ; Mrs. Spencer, Library and Fifth street ; Mrs. 
Israel, 91 South Fifth street ; Mrs. Allibone, Fourth 
and Willing's Alley ; Mrs. Newlin, 98 South Third 
street ; Mrs. Wilson, 121 Chestnut street ; Mrs. Hays, 
Third and Willing's Alley. 

The banks of the Schuylkill, near Philadelphia, con- 
tain numerous elegant country seats, and several pub- 
lic buildings. Among the private residences, none arc 
perhaps more justly admired than that of Henry Pratt, 
Esq. on Lemon Hill. The Mansion House is situated 
on the eastern bank of the river, and directly above the 
Fair Mount Water Works, about a mile from the city. 
Connected with the mansion are gardens of the most 
extensive kind, laid out in a style of much elegance and 
taste. To these gardens respectable citizens and stran- 
gers have free access ; and a ride to them is among the 
various pleasant excursions in the vicinity of the city. 

The Shot Tower of Mr. Beck is also an object of 
much curiosity to strangers visiting Philadelphia. It 
stands on the east bank of the Schuylkill, in the rear of 
the city, and is a lofty edifice, from the top of which a 
very extensive view can be had of the surrounding 
country. 

The Penn Monument, commemorative of the spot 
where William Penn, the founder of the colony of 
Pennsylvania, made a treaty with the aborigines, is 
near the intersection of Beach and Hanover streets. 

Steam boats leave Philadelphia every morning at 6 
o'clock, Sundays excepted, for Baliimore and New- 
York. 



74 INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 

The Philadelphia and Liverpool Packets, which 
are handsomely fitted up, sail from Philadelphia on the 
20th and from Liverpool on the 8th of each month. 

In the NEW LINE BY WAY OF Savannaii, thc packets 
sail from Philadelphia the 20lh of each month. 

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 

The first turnpike in America was made in Pennsyl- 
vania ; and the state at this time contains near 3000 
miles of turnpike roads, at a cost of about $8,000,000. 
Among the bridges built across its principal rivers, for- 
ty-five are estimated to have cost $3,000,000 ; and more 
than $20,000,000 have been expended within the state 
on canals and rail roadsx 

The Union Canal was commenced about 43 years 
since, by a private company ; but having to encounter 
the expense of an extensive tunnel at the summit, of 
236 yards in length, and an insufficiency of water for 
the western section, which is drawn up twenty feet by 
a steam engine, it was partially abandoned ; but since 
the completion and successful operation of the Erie and 
Champlain canals, and a stimulus having been produc- 
ed in Pennsylvania, this canal was re-commenced and 
completed, and is in successful operation. It commen- 
ces near Reading on the Schuylkill river, 51 miles 
north-west of Philadelphia, and extends thence in a 
westerly direction to Lebanon, and thence along thc 
Swatara creek to Middletown, on the Susquehannah 
river, nine miles below Harrisburgh, the seat of gov- 
ernment of the state. 

The length of the canal is 79 miles ; the water for 
the principal supply of the eastern section, a distanec of 



PENKSTLVANIA CANAL. 75 

40 miles, is drawn from the Tulpehocken river, a branch 
of the Schuylkill. The lockage on this section is 276 
feet in 53 locks : the locks are of various lifts, and cost 
,$G50 per foot. The western section extends 39 miles, 
having a lockage of 226 feet in 37 locks, besides an 
expensive tunnel.. 

By a law of the Pennsylvania legislature, chartering 
the Union Canal Company, passed in 1826, they were 
prohibited from erecting any works which should pre- 
vent the descent of rafts in the channel of the Sv.^atara 
river. This provision having been repealed in 1829, the 
company subsequently resolved on extending the canal 
to a point at or near the village of Pine Grove, about 
four miles from what is called " The Coal Region," and 
to complete the route to the mines by rail roads. 

By means of the Union Canal and the Schuylkill 
slack water navigation, there is also a communication 
from Philadelphia to the Susquehannah river; and this 
communication is greatly extended by means of the 

Pennsylvania Canal, which commences at Colum- 
bia, 80 miles north-west of Philadelphia, and unites 
with the Union Canal at Middletovvn, 18 miles farther. 
From ihence it proceeds in a westerly direction to the 
Juniata — thence up that river to the foot of the Allegha- 
ny mountains, which are crossed by a railroad, 37 miles 
long ; at the end of which the canal re-commences, 
uniting with the Alleghany and Ohio rivers at Pitts- 
burg. The whole length of this canal, including the 
rail road across the mountains, is 311 miles, and the 
lockage rising of 1 1 00 feet. After reaching the Juniata, 
a singularly romantic and beautiful stream, the canai 
winds along a gentle and practicable acclivity, follow- 



76 PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. 

ing the bed of the river for nearly a hundred miles. 
Two mighty ranges of mountains rise from the limpid 
Juniata, like two green leaves of an immense opening 
volume. These mountains, apparently arranged to the 
course of this stream, seem to lie almost at right angles 
to the great parallel ridges. The Juniata finds a pas- 
sage by a very equable and gentle declivity through all 
the mountains except the last ridge that parts its wa- 
ters from those of the Ohio. More beautiful forms of 
mountains than those which skirt this river, can no 
where be seen. Sometimes, for many miles together, 
they rise, smooth, verdant and mibroken, by equable 
slopes, from the very verge of the stream to the hcighth 
of twelve hundred feet ; and here, apparently, when 
the fountains of the great deep were broken up, the 
rocky summits of the mountains were dismembered at 
the same time. For miles together, and in many pla- 
ces the v.'hole sides of the grand slope, from summit to 
base, are strown with large fragments of smooth build- 
ing stone ; and it is inconceivable how smoothly and 
completely they line the sides of these mighty hills. 
La3'ers of these rocks cover thousands of acres, for a 
depth apparently of forty or fifty feet ; and for a con- 
siderable distance the road is formed by the removal of 
these layers along the sides of the mountains, the 
carriage winding its way many hundred feet above the 
canal, which is perpendicularly below. 

In other places, more recent slides of the earth and 
rocks from the summits of the mountains have cut away 
a visible and uniform path, sweeping trees and every 
obstacle before it, until the spoils are accumulated at 
the foot of the mountains. Indeed every foot of this 



PENNSYLVANIA CANAI.S. ^1 

Voute of a hundred miles is enriched with scenery of" 
unexampled sublimity ; and we can imagine no higher 
treat for the tourist than a passage along its banks, 
connected with the crossing of the Alleghanies, and a 
trip to Pittsburg, 

In addition to the foregoing, the state has completed 
a canal from the mouth of the Juniata up the Susque- 
hannah to the forks at Northumberland ; thence up the 
north branch of the latter, tia Wilkcsbarre, to the 
mouth of the Lackawana — length 110 miles. Also, a 
canal from Northumberland, at the forks of the Susque- 
liannah up the west branch to the mouth of Bald Eagle 
creek — length 6G5 miles. Also, the French Creek 
feeder, designed to supply with water the future com- 
munication between the Ohio river and Lake Eric — 
length (including that part of the creek rendered navi- 
gable to its junction with the Alleghany river) 45 miles. 
Also, a canal from Bristol to Easton on the Delaware — 
length 60 miles. This is the channel by which the 
coal trade of the Lehigh reaches Philadelphia. Also, a 
canal from the confluence of the Beaver with the Ohio 
river, 20 miles below Pittsburg, up the former river to 
Newcastle — distance about 25 miles. This is the com- 
mencement of a communication between the Ohio and 
Lake Erie, which will pursue a northerly direction up 
the valley of the Chenango to the Summit at Con- 
neaut Lake, and from thence to the lake at the town of 
Erie. From Newcastle to Erie the distance will be 
about 78 miles. The whole extent of these canals is 
583 miles. 

The following canals belong to private incorpora- 
tions: The Union canal, already noticed at page 74 ; 



78 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBUUfi. 

Branch canal and feeder, 22 miles long, with a rail road 
of 4 miles, extending to the Pine Grove coal mines, be* 
longing to the same company; the Schuylkill canal, 
from Philadelphia up the Schuylkill river, intersecting 
the Union canal at Reading, to the Schuylkill coal mines 
at Mount Carbon — length, including 46 miles of slack 
water in the river, 108 miles ; the Lehigh canal, from 
Easton on the Delaware, up the Lehigh river to the coal 
mines at Alauch Chunk, and from thence to Stoddarts- 
ville — length 46 m_iles ; a part of the Hudson and Del- 
aware canal, from Honesdale on the Lackawaxen to 
the mouth of that stream — about 20 miles ; Conestoga 
Navigation, an improvement of the Conestoga creek by 
locks and dams, from its mouth to the city of Lancas- 
ter, 14 miles; and the Codorus Navigation, an im- 
provement of the Codorus creek from its mouth to the 
borough of York, 10 miles. Making the total dis- 
tance of canal navigation now in use in the state about 
760 miles. 

The state has also constructed the Columbia, Alle- 
ghany Portage, and Norristown rail roads, which are 
noticed in subsequent pages of this work. 

FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG, PENN. 

393 miles. 
The usual and most interesting route is by the Co- 
lumbia rail road and Pennsylvania canal, as follows : 



JFROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURO. 



79 



Miles. 
By rail road. 
Prom Philadelphia to 
the viaduct across 

the Schuylkill,.... 3 

Buck's tavern, 7 

Paoli, 9 

Downinjrtown, 10 

Coatsville, 10 

Mine Ridge, 10 

Soudersburgh, 10 

Lancaster, H 

Columbia 12 

By canal. 

Marietta, 3 

Bainbridge, 8 

Middleto^vn, 17 

Harrisburgh, 10 

M' Allistefstown, .... 7 

Juniata river, 8 



Miles. 

Millerstown,. 17 

Mifflin,. 17 

Lewistown, 13 

Waynesburfth. 14 

Harriiltonville, 11 

Huntingdon, 7 

Petersburgh, 8 

Alexandria, 23 

Frankstovi-n, 3 

By rail road. 
Hollidaysburgh to 

Johnstown, 37 

By canal. 

Blairsville, 34 

Sdtzburgh, 17 

V/arren. 12 

Alleghany river, 15 

Freeport, 2 

Pittsburg, 28 



The Columbia Rail Road commences at the depot 
at the intersection of Vine and Broad streets, and ex- 
tends up the valley of the Schuylkill through Pratt's 
Garden to the river, which is crossed 3 miles from the 
city, on a handsome viaduct 1045 feet long, 41 feet wide, 
and 30 feet above the surface of the water. It is built 
on six piers, and in addition to a double track of rail- 
way, affords ample convenience for ordinary carriages 
and foot passengers. Immediately succeeding the via- 
duct is an inclined plane 2805 feet long, rising 1 foot in 
15, which is surmounted by means of a stationary steam 
engine, placed at the head. The line of the road passes 
from thence over an undulating surface, requiring heavy 
excavations and embankments, through portions of 

G 



8Q FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG. 

Philadelphia, Montgomery and Delaware counties, till 
it reaches the viaduct of Valley creek, which is a wood- 
en structure about 600 feet long, supported on piers 
from 35 to 55 feet high. Immediately beyond the 
viaduct the traveller catches the first glimpse of the 
Great Chester Valley, long esteemed to be one of the 
most beautiful and fertile sections of the state. At the 
distance of 21 miles from Philadelphia, the line is in- 
tersected by a branch road leading to Westchester, the 
cost of which was about $85,000. At 30 miles, a little 
to the south of Downingtown, the road crosses the 
East Brandy wine by a viaduct 465 feet long and 25 feet 
high. Some distance farther, the line crosses the West 
Brandy wine by a viaduct 835 feet long and 72 feet 
above the surface of the water. Still ascending the 
main valley of Chester, the line reaches the summit, 
which divides it from that of Lancaster. This place is 
known as the Deep Cut through Mine Hill, and it is 
believed that for its size there is not another instance in 
this country of similar difficulties of execution. The 
cut originally proposed at this place was 37 feet deep 
and half a mile long, but owing to the discouraging na- 
ture of the ground, abounding with slips, springs and 
quicksands, it became necessary in order to diminish 
the cutting to raise the grade, which theretofore had 
seldom exceeded 30 feet per mile, to 45 feet ; and even 
then, though at only 8 or 10 feet deep, it required heavy 
piling and substantial platforms before the road could 
be carried through. Thence descending the Lancaster 
valley, the road crosses the Pequa,by a viaduct 150 feet 
long and 24 feet high, and soon after, Mill creek, by a 
similar construction 550 feet long and 40 feet high. 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG. 81 

Thence it follows the general features of the country 
till it reaches the immense viaduct over Conestoga riv- 
er. The piers are 60 feet above the surface of the Waa- 
ler, and the whole length of the platform 1412 feet. 
Not long after, the road enters Lancaster by a high em- 
bankment, the materials of which were obtained from 
the deep rock cutting in the town. From Lancaster 
the line passes through a beautiful section of the coun- 
ty of the same name, presenting no very great irregu- 
larities of profile, or difficulties of construction other 
than the viaduct over the Little Conestoga, 804 feet 
long and 47 feet high; not long after the passage of 
which it arrives at the summit of the Columbia inclined 
plane. The view that here presents itself, of the broad 
and noble Susquehannah, covered with arks and ves- 
sels bearing the varied products of the north and west, 
and spanned with its magnificent bridge of more than 
thirty arches, and a mile and a quarter long, is such as 
amply to repay one for the day's journey over this " iron 
avenue of the west." The Columbia plane is 1800 feet 
long, with a rise of 1 in 20 feet. From the plane the 
line passes through Columbia to the basin of the east- 
ern division of the Pennsylvania canal. Numerous e?:- 
aminations and estimates were made in relation to 
joining the line with the bridge, which resulted in the 
plan of an inclined plane, with horse power, running at 
right angles to the line of the bridge, and com.municat- 
ing with it by means of revolving platforms. The con- 
struction of this road was authorized by the legislature 
in 1828, but owing to a delay in the appropriations, it 
was not finished till 1835. The cost of the whole line, 



S2 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG. 

including engines, was $3,595,809 98, or about $43,851 
per mile. 

After ascending the inclined plane at the Schuylkill, 
the first village passed is 

Paoli, 19 miles from Philadelphia. A neat monu- 
ment is erected here in honor of the brave soldiers who 
fell at this place in an engagement with the British 
during the revolution. 

DowNiNGTowN, 10 miles farther, is a pleasant village 
on the east side of the Brandy wine creek. 

Lancaster, 41 miles farther, is an incorporated city, 
and one of the oldest towns in the state. It is pleas- 
antly situated on the side of a hill 1^ miles west of Con- 
estoga creek, which falls into the Susquehannah 9 miles 
below. The city contains several handsome public 
buildings and numerous manufactories, and is sur- 
rounded by a beautiful and highly cultivated country. 
Its population is between 7 and 8000. 

Columbia, 12 miles farther, is the terminating point 
of the rail road, and is generally reached by steam in 
about 8 hours from Philadelphia. The village, which 
is flourishing and bustling-, is located on the east side 
of the Susquehannah river, and contains several hand- 
some private dwelUngs, three churches and a bank. 
The bridge across the river at this place is a mile and a 
quarter long, resting on 30 stone piers, and is of itself 
an object sufliciently imposing to a stranger to authorize 
a journey from Philadelphia. 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG. 83 

The Pennsylvania Canal, which is here taken, has 
already been noticed at p. 75. It passes along the 
bank of the Susquehannah to its junction with the Ju- 
niata ; and for miles the traveller is floated between 
the river and its lofty shore, separated from the former 
only by the breadth of the tow path, which, on the 
side towards the river, is solid and massive mason- 
ry. On the other side of the canal runs the turn- 
pike, and so scant is the interval between the river and 
the shore, that for the passage of these thoroughfares of 
trade and travel, the foundations of the hills have been 
cut away, and the traveller sails along their bases, with 
the precipitous crags impending many hundred feet 
above him. The whole number of locks on this canal 
are 111 — dams, 18 — aqueducts, 33. 

The first village after leaving Columbia is 

Marietta, 3 miles — a handsome and flourishing 
place. From which to 

Bainbridge is 8 miles, 

JVIiDDLETOWN 17, and from thence to 

Harrisburgh 10 miles. The village, which contains 
the capital of the state, is regularly laid out on the east 
bank of the Susquehannah, over which a bridge is here 
erected, one mile long. The village contains 7 or 8 
public buildings, as many churches, and about 4500 in- 
habitants. The capitol is handsomely situated on an 
eminence, commanding a fine view of the town, river 
and surrounding country. To the north the mountain 
g2 



84 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG. 

scenery is imposing, and the opening or gap through 
which the river passes presents a beautiful appearance. 
The building in which the legislature meets is an ex- 
tensive structure of brick, in the centre of which is a 
semicircular portico or entrance, which is approached 
by a flight of steps. The roof of the portico is support- 
ed by six massive columns, rising to the height of the 
main building. From the portico there is an entrance 
into the rotunda or hall of the building which separates 
the chambers of the two houses. To the right is the 
hall of representatives — to the left that of the senate. 
Immediately in front, as you enter the first hall, is the 
speaker's chair, elevated upon a rostrum above those 
of the clerks, which derives an interest from the fact 
that it is the same chair in which John Hancock first 
sat when he was chosen President of the continental 
congress. 

From Harrisburgh the village of M'Allisterstown 7 
miles, the mouth of the Juniata 8 miles, and the villa- 
ges of JMillerstown 17 miles, Mifflin 17 miles, and Lew- 
iSTOWN 13 miles, are successively passed. The latter 
is the capital of Mifflin county, and contains a pop- 
ulation of about 1500 inhabitants. The villages of 
Waynesburgh 14 miles, Hamiltonville 11 miles, Hunt- 
ingdon 7 miles, Petersburgh 8 miles, and Alexandria 
23 miles, are also passed ; from whence to Hollidays- 
burgh is 3 miles,* the termination of the canal at the 

* From this point a stage coach may be taken for 
Bedford Springs, 34 miles south, a place of very con- 
siderable resort in the summer months. The mineral 
fountains contain sulphate of magnesia, sulphate of 
lime, muriate of soda, do. of hme, carbonate of iron, do. 
of lime, and a very considerable quantity of carbonic 
acid gas. 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG. 85 

foot of the Alleghany mountains — a trip to which from 
Columbia is generally accomplished in about 2i days. 
Here the traveller prepares to cross the mighty division 
of the east and west— not in a lumbering coach drawn 
by wearied horses— but in a rail road carriage drawn 
by steam. The change from the slug-gish motion of 
the boat to the speed of the car is very acceptable, and 
the rail road over the mountains proves an agreeable 
interlude to the monotony of a canal passage. 

The aggregate of ascent and descent at this point is 
2570 feet— 1398 of which is on the eastern and 1172 on 
the western side of the mountain. The ascent is by 
five inclined planes, of nearly a mile each in length. 
On the summit, in a solitude like that of St. Bernard 
upon the Alps, stands a fine mansion, whose spacious 
accommodations and welcome cheer invite an hour's 
delay. Before commencing the descent of the moun- 
tain, the traveller comes to the celebrated tunnel, hewn 
through the solid rock, 870 feet long by 20 feet in 
heishth, the rumbling of the cars through which is like 
the reverberation of distant thunder. The descent is 
then effected like the ascent, by means of five in- 
clined planes of about a mile each. After leaving 
the fourth, the road crosses a stream upon a magnifi- 
cent specimen of pontic architecture, 70 feet above 
the water, which it spans w^ith a single arch of SO 
feet. It is beautifully constructed of hewn stone, and 
curiously contrasts with the wildness of the surround- 
ing scenery. The last plane being descended, the 
tourist soon finds himself at the termination of the rail 
road in the village of Johnstown, 36 miles from its 
commencement. Here a packet is again taken, which 



86 PITTSBURG. 

enters the western division of the Pennsylvania cana] , 
which follows the Conemaugh river for a distance of 
78 miles, until it intersects with the Alleghany, which 
terminates at Pittsburgh. It is 104 miles long, has 64 
locks, 10 dams, 2 tunnels, 16 aqueducts, 94 culverts, 
and 152 bridges. After leaving Johnstown, the canal 
passes through a tunnel more extensive than the one 
on the Portage rail road. The heighth of the hill which 
it perforates is 250, and the length of the tunnel 917 
feet. The traveller, indeed, passes under an improved 
farm, the well attached to which is directly over the 
tunnel ! 

The time employed in reaching Pittsburg from Hol- 
lidaysburgh is about 30 hours ; and from Philadelphia 
about 4 days. Fare for the whole distance, including 
meals, about $15. 

Pittsburg, an incorporated city, is situated on a 
beautiful plain, on a broad point of land, where the 
confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela forms 
the Ohio river. The population of the city proper is 
about 15,000, and, including the suburbs, about 25,000. 
It is compactly, and in some places handsomely built ; 
though the universal use of pit coal for manufacturing 
and culinary purposes, has so far blackened the exte- 
rior of every building, as to give the town a gloomy ap- 
pearance. Its position and advantages, however, will 
continue to render it a place of attraction for builders 
and capitalists ; and it has already been very appro- 
priately termed the Birmingham of America, there be- 
mg not less than 290 manufacturing establishments, 
many of which are very extensive. Independently of the 



THE COAI. MINES. S7 

immense amount of iron wrought at this place, boat 
and steam boat building have been pursued on a great- 
er scale than in any other town in the western country. 
Small boats are continually departing down the river 
at all seasons, when the waters will admit. In moder- 
ate stages, great numbers of steam boats arrive and 
depart. The city has also immense advantages of arti- 
ficial as well as natural water communications. Be- 
sides the Pennsylvania canal, already described, which 
terminates here, another canal is in progress to connect 
it with Lake Erie through Meadville, and another pro- 
posed to the mouth of the Mahoning, where it will con- 
nect with a branch of the Ohio and Erie canal from its 
summit head. 

Among the public buildings in Pittsburg are 13 
churches, a university, high school, exchange, bank and 
museum. 

From Pittsburg, steam boats may be taken for Cin- 
cinnati, Ohio, 465 miles ; to Louisville, Ken. 175 miles 
farther ; or to New-Orleans, 1400 miles farther. The 
time employed in reaching the latter place is about 12 
days, and the usual expenses from ^40 to $60. 

THE COAL MINES. 

Since the discovery and opening of the extensive 
coal mines in Pennsylvania, and the great internal im- 
provements which have been made in the state, pro- 
viding an easy communication to them, it has become 
almost a matter of course to embrace them within the 
tour of the middle and northern states. The Lehigh 
and Schuylkill, the principal mines already explored, 
are located from 100 to 120 miles in a northeasterly 



88 THE COAL MINES. 

direction from Philadelphia, between a chain of moun- 
tains denominated the Blue Ridge and the Susquehan- 
nah river. The anthracite district is principally occu- 
pied by mountains running parallel to the Blue Ridge, 
often broad with table land summits, and rising gen- 
erally about 1500 feet above the ocean. These sum- 
mits, by repeated fires, have been principally divested 
of timber, and are generally too stony for tillage. The 
beds and veins of anthracite range from north-east to 
south-west, and may often be traced for a considerable 
distance by the compass ; but they have been found in 
the greatest quantity in sections most accessible by 
water. Extensive beds and veins range from the Le- 
high to the Susquehannah, crossing the head waters of 
the Schuylkill and Swatara about ten miles north-west 
of the Blue Ridge. They are also found contiguous 
to the Susquehannah and Lackawana. But in no part 
of the district does the anthracite exist in such appa- 
rently inexhaustible beds as in the vicinity of Mauch 
Chunk, a village situated on the Lehigh, 35 miles from 
Easton, and lOS by water from Philadelphia. The coal 
is there excavated on the flat summit of a mountain 
that rises near 1500 feet above the ocean. It is disclos- 
ed for several miles on the summit wherever excava- 
tions have been made, and is indicated in many places 
by coal slate in a pulverulent state, on the surface. 
The mountain rises with steep acclivity, particularly on 
the north-west side, and when penetrated at various al- 
titudes, discloses coal at about the same distance from 
the surface. In the deep excavations made on the sum- 
mit, no termination of the coal has been found, and it is 



T^E COAL MINES. S9 

Wot improbable that anthracite forms the nucleus of the 
"imountain for a considerable distance. 

The coal is rendered accessible by removing from the 
ilat summit gravelly loam, which is from a few inches 
to four feet in depth, and disintegrated slate with im- 
pure coal, from two to four feet. The coal rests in a 
horizontal position, narrow parallel seams of argilla- 
ceous schist intervening. Strong chalybeate springs, 
holding in solution sulphate of iron, issue from the 
mountain's side. The coal excavation on the surface is 
extensive, and from 30 to 40 feet deep, forming a hol- 
low square, bounded by lofty mural precipices of coaU 
Waggons are admitted by avenucb that serve to dis- 
charge water from the mine. 

Next to Mauch Chunk, Mount Carbon, or Pottsville, 
situated at the head of the Schuylkill canal, has been 
the principal source of the supply of anthracite. Many 
large veins are worked within three miles of the land- 
ing ; and some have been opened seven miles to the 
north-east, in the direction of the Lehigh beds. The 
chief veins wrought are, one situated on an eminence 
adjacent to the village ; Bailey's mine, about 2 miles 
from Pottsville and near the turnpike to Lunbury ; and 
on the territory of the New- York Schuylkill company, 
about 3 miles from the village. On almost every emi- 
nence adjacent to Pottsville, indications of coal are dis- 
closed. The veins generally run in a north-east direc- 
tion, with an inclination of about 45 degrees, and are 
from 3 to 9 feet in thickness. Commencing at or near 
the surface, they penetrate to an unknown depth, and 
can often be traced on hills for a considerable distance 
by sounding in a northeast or south-west direction. 



90 THE COAL MINES, 

Some veins have been wrought to a depth of 200 fee? 
without a necessity for draining, theinchned slate roof 
shielding them from water. Where the ground admits, 
it is considered the best mode of working veins to com- 
mence at the back of a coal mine eminence, or as low 
as possible, and work up, filling the excavation with 
slate and fine coal, leaving a horizontal passage for the 
coal barrows. A section of a wide vein near Pottsville 
has been excavated by this mode several hundred feet, 
into the hill. 

On the extensive tract occupied by the New- York 
company, five miles from Pottsville, there are also in- 
exhaustible coal beds, in the excavating of which from 
300 to 400 hands are employed. 

South-west of Pottsville the coal becomes more ea- 
sily ignited, and that at Peter's mountain, a few miles 
east of Dansville, is said to contain bitumen. It is 
probable that the coal in that vicinity embraces, like 
the Wilkesbarre, much more inflammable gas than the 
Lehigh, which may have led to the supposition that it 
was bituminous. 

Anthracite is found on several of the streams that 
discharge into the Susquehannah, on its eastern side. 
A large bed exists a few miles easterly from Berwick, 
and numerous veins occur from an elevated part of the 
Wilkesbarre mountain, to the Kingston and Shawnese 
mountains, that form the western border of the basin of 
Wyoming. Veins of coal in the vale of the latter,* 



* The valley of Wyoming is rendered memorable in 
history froin the bloody massacre of the white settlers 
by the Indians commanded by Col. Butler during the 



ROUTE TO THE SUHUTLKILL COAL MlNESo 



91 



tibout 125 miles north-west of Philadelphia, arc not on- 
ly very numerous, occurring on almost every farm, but 
many are of uncommon thickness.* 

Extensive beds of coal are also found adjoining the 
head waters of Lycoming creek, which lie in horizontal 
veins, elevated considerably above the ordinary level of 
the adjacent country, and are, of course, mined with 
much less difficulty than in many other districts. These 
mines are advantageously located for supplying the city 
of New- York and the south-western part of the state, 
and will doubtless prove of great value to a company 
which has been chartered to explore them. 

ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL COAL MINES. 

From Philadelphia to Port Carbon is 108 miles, and 
the intermediate distances are as follow : 



7 

usquenannan rivt;r, iias u.-.k:,, i^c... wv... ...- pit- 

this massacre. Solomon's creek, a tributary stream, 
and which unites with the Susquehannah m this valley, 
contains two very romantic falls, a short distance from 
"Wilkesbarre. 

* For the precedin2 sketch of the coal region, the 
editor is mostly indebted to the Journal of Science and 
Arts, an invaluable work, pubhshed at New-Haven, 
Conn, by professor Silliman. 



6S MORRISTOWN — -RKAfim*. 



Miles. I Miles 

By rail road. Birdsboro', &' 

From Philadelphia to j Reading, 10" 



Germanic wn, 

Horristown, 9 

Btj stage or canaL 

Phenixville, 13 

Pottstovvn, 14 

Unionsviile 4 



Clamburo;!!, SS 

Port Clinton, , 4 

Schuylkill Haven,... 12 

Pottsvillfi, 5 

Port (Carbon, ,. 2 



The iSorristown rail road is taken at Philadelphia^ 
which passes through Germantown, distant 6 miles, 
distinguished as the spot of a sanguinary contest dur- 
ing the revolution ; and from thence to 

NoRKiSTOWN, 9 miles farther. This village is hand- 
somely located on the north bank of the Schuylkill. It 
is the capital of Montgomery county, and contains a 
number of elegant dvvellings. It was formerly the res- 
idence of the celebrated Doct. Rittenhouse. From this 
place a stage or canal packet is taken, which passes 
through Phenixville to 

Pottstcwn:, or Pottsgrove, 18 mil-^s above ^Norris- 
town, which is a pleasant village on the east bank of 
the river. 

Reaping, 20 miles farther, located on lbs east side 
of the river, is the capital of Berk's county. It is a flour- 
ishing town, regularly laid out, and is inhabited princi- 
pally by Germans. Its population is about 6O0O. Near 
this place the Union Canal, noticed at page 74, com- 
tnences. Six miles from Reading is an excavation of 60 



MOTINT CARBON. 



93 



feel in depth through a solid rock ; the contract for which 
having been taken by a Mr. Duncan, the spot is called 
Dwicmi's Job. From this place to the Blue Ridge, the 
Schuylkill winds through a valley in which there is 
considerable limestone, the fissures and cavities of 
which in some places rendered the formation of a re- 
tentive canal difficult. 

Hamburgh is situated on the east side of the river, 
23 miles above Reading, near the Blue Ridge. It is a 
pleasant and thriving village, near which is what is 
called the Mountain Dam, 27 feet high. The passage 
of the Schuylkill and canal through the Blue Ridge is 
interesting and romantic. The mountains bordering 
the ravine are lofty and precipitous, presenting ledges 
of old and red sand stone, with coarse and fine silicious 
gray wacke. The turnpike winds on the mountain side 
at a great elevation above the stream, giving to the 
traveller a sublime and varied scenery. The naviga- 
tion through the pass, or what is called the Schuylkill 
Water Gap, is effected by stone dams of magnitude 
and permanent construction ; and groups of locks, wa- 
ter falls and broad sheets of water are frequent. 

After passing the Water Gap, the next object of at- 
traction is the Tunnel, which has been bored through a 
hill 375 yards for the canal. The village of Orwisburgh 
is 3 miles farther; from which to 

Mount Carbon or Pottsville is 8 miles. Thia 
place, centrally lacatod in the coal region, has attained 
an astonishing growth within a very short period. In 
i824 it was a wilderness ; in 1829 it contained 223 ten* 



94 RAIL ROADS. 

ements, and a population of 2700 inhabitants ; in 1832, 
492 dwellings, and aboiit 5000 inhabitants: in 1836, 
about 600 dweHinors and 7000 inhabitants ; several 
churches, a bank, 3 printing offices, and a large num- 
ber of stores, shops and pnbhc houses, some of which 
nre very elegant. The town is laid out in regular 
squares, and the main street, about a mile in length, 
presents on each side a compact row of large and sub- 
stantial buildings. The principal streets are M'Adam- 
ized in the centre, with brick side walks, giving a neat 
and durable appearance to the promenades. 

The coal in this region has been described in the pre- 
ceding pages of this work. Besides the numerous fa- 
cilities afforded for its transportation by water, several 
rail roads have been constructed in t?ie vicinity of 
Mount Carbon. Among these are the Schuylkill 
Valley Rail Road, 10 miles; the Mount Carbon, 8 
miles ; the Mill Creek, 3 miles ; the West Branch, 17 
miles ; the Little Schuylkill, 22 miles ; and the Dan- 
ville and Pottsville, 45 miles— making an aggregate of 
106 miles. 

The Mount Carbon rail road commences at the land- 
ing on the Schuylkill and passes through Pottsville up 
to the heads of the Norwegian creek. From its com- 
mencement to its terminution, there is not a quarter of 
a mile in which it does not cross one or more veins of 
coal, at right angles. The whole valley, indeed, wa- 
tered by this creek, is redolent with coal of the finest 
quality. 

The West Branch rail road commences at vSchuylkill 
Haven, and extends up to the confluence of the West 
and west West Branches of the Schuylkill, from whence 



RAIL R0AD3. 95 

branches follow the direction of the two streams to the 
foot of the Broad Mountain, making a distance, alto- 
gether, of about 17 miles, 

TheLittle Schuylkill rail road commences at Port Clin- 
ton, at the mouth of the Little Schuylkill, and extends 
to the village of Tamaqua, on that stream, a distance 
of 2U miles — with several branches to the coal mines. 

The Danville and-Pottsville railroad extends to Lun- 
bury, opposite the forks of the Susquehannah, and is 
designed to connect that river with the Schuylkill canal. 

Of the numerous villages which have sprung up in 
the vicinity of these mines is Port Carbon, a short dis- 
tance from Pottsville, containing 150 to 200 buildings. 

Pursuing up the route of the Valley Rail Road, the 
traveller next comes to Tuscarora, Middleport, Patter- 
son, New Philadelphia, and Tuscarora again. The 
three former places are at the intersection of the large 
lateral road which leads up the creek tributary to the 
river — the latter is at the head of the main rail road, 
built by Messrs. Lyons and Lawton. 

Up the Mill Creek Rail Road, about 2 miles, is St. 
Clairsville, and at its head New-Castle, where the road 
from Port Carbon intersects the Centre Turnpike. 
Both these places have extensive water powers, and are 
admirably located for mills, &c. 

At the junction of the West Branch of the Schuyl- 
kill with the main river, Schuylkill Haven is a beauti- 
fully situated place, which will be a mart for all the im- 
mense coal region of the West and west West Branch* 
es ; this location is destined to be the focus of an ex- 
tensive business. Minersville is another site on the 
same branch, nearly west of Pottsville. This, from its 
h2 



93 MAHCH CHUNK. 

situation among extensive collieries, has already becoms 
a populous place, as the residence of those engaged in 
the coal business. Further up, on the Broad Moun- 
tain, is Garbondale, which also promises to be a place 
of some importance. 

ROUTE TO THE LEHIGH COAL MIJ^'ES. 

From Pottsville, a stage can be taken to Mauch 
Chunk, at the Lehigh coal mines, a distance of 32 miles 
in a north-eastvvardly direction. This route is recom- 
mended to travellers from the south, designing a gene- 
ral visit to the coal regions. From the north, the most 
direct route is, to pursue the line of the Morris canal 
from Newark, N. Jersey, to Easton, or the route from 
New- York to Schooley's Mountain, and from thence 
to Easton, proceeding up the Lehigh to Mauch Chunk. 
A very common route from Philadelphia to the Lehigh 
is by steam boat to Bristol, 20 miles up the Delaware, 
and from thence by stage through Newton and New- 
Hope to Easton, 50 miles farther. This route is mostly 
on the bank of the Delaware, and passes through a 
pleasant section of the country, affording a rich and di- 
versified scenery. 

MAUCH CHUNK. 

The village of Mauch Chunk is situated on the west- 
ern bank of the Lehigh, in a deep romantic ravine, be- 
tween rocky mountains that rise in some parts precipi- 
tously to 800 or 1000 feet above the stream. Space was 
procured for dwellings b}- breaking down the adjacent 
rocks, and by filling a part of the ravine of the Mauch 
Chunk creek. A portion of this stream has been trans- 



MAtTCH CHUNK. 9T 

ferred to an elevated rail way, and is used to propel a 
grist mill. The village contains about 200 dwellings, 
belonging principally to the Lehigh Company, who 
have between 800 and 1000 men in their employ. 
Mauch Chunk seems by nature designed for a place of 
business, but as there is not sufficient room, owing to 
the approach of the mountains to the Lehigh, for a 
town of much size, the business of the place will most 
likely be confined principally to the shipment of coal. 

The Mauch Chunk Rail Road leads from near the 
coal mines on the mountain down an inclined plane to 
the Lehigh river. It is eight miles long, and has been 
in operation 7 or 8 years. The sleepers on which the 
rails rest, as v»'cll as the rails, are of wood ; the latter 
plated with iron. Experiments have been made as to 
the velocity that might be obtained for the cars loaded 
ivith coal, and the horses and mules to draw them back 
to the summit when the coal had been discharged ; and 
it has been found, that though the speed of the cars 
might be increased to thirty or forty miles an hour with 
safety, yet the beasts, as well as the men who guided 
the cars, became in a few days sickly, on account of 
the rapid and confused appearance of objects as they 
were passed on the way. The directors of the compa- 
ny have therefore been compelled to limit the velocity 
of the cars to 14 miles an hour in their descent, to ob- 
viate the disagreeable consequencc-s of the more rapid 
motion. Pleasure carriages sometimes go up this rail 
way with strangers ; but the more common practice is 
to go up in the returning cars. The road generally 
passes along a narrow shelf, with precipices on its side 



98 iLEHlGn RIVER- 

not unfrequently of from 300 to 600 feet. At the end 
of the rail road, the cars are let down to the river on an 
inclined plane of 700 feet, equal to a perpendicular de- 
scent of 200. 

The same company have also constructed a rail road 
51 miles in extent from Mauch Chunk up the Lehigh 
to a coal mine. 

The Lehigh Canal was noticed at page 7S. The 
Lehigh Kiver is a copious rapid stream, and rises by 
various mountain branches forty miles north-west of 
Mauch Chunk, which unite below Stoddartsville, 25 
miles above Mauch Chunk. The fall of the river be- 
tween these two places is 845 feet. Eleven miles be- 
low Mauch Chunk, it passes through the Kittatinny 
range of mountains, and in the intermediate space falls 
245 feet. From the Lehigh Water Gap, or passage 
through the Kittatinny, to its junction with the Dela- 
ware at Easton, 35 miles, it falls 205 feet ; making the 
entire fall from Stoddartsville 1210 feet. To overcome 
the descent from Mauch Chunk to Easton, 21 dams 
and 52 locks have been found necessary. They are lo- 
cated at the head of rapids, enabling the navigator to 
command an artificial freshet, when the stream from its 
dispersion would not otherwise admit of the passage of 
boats. Water from the dam is copiously admitted in- 
to a rail way that extends to the foot of the rapid. The 
gates are attached by hinges to the bottom of the lock, 
and rise by the force of water admitted from a floom, 
constructed parallel with the lock, and remain suspend- 
ed, forming a section of the dam. If the gate of the 
doom is closed, the water between the gates passes off, 



LEHICH WATER GAP. 9^ 

and they fall by their own weight and the pressure of 
the water from the dam. 

The Landing, or Lausanne, above Mauch Chunk, 
from its location at the head of the navigation, and at 
the commencement of the turnpike road leading to the 
Susquehannah, is a place of deposit for merchandize and 
produce destined to and from the upper country. The 
Nesquehoning creek here empties into the Lehigh, 
and from the extensive water power which it affords, 
manufactories can be established at comparatively a 
very small expense. Eight miles below Mauch Chunk 
is the pleasant village of 

Lehighton. The ground plot of the town is laid out 
upon an elevated piece of table land, and the lots are 
sufficiently large to afford an extensive garden and 
yard to each dwelling. The village commands a pros- 
pect of the river and canal ; the valley in which the 
town of Weiss Port is located ; the Blue Mountain in 
the distance, and a nearer viev/ of the iNlahoning moun- 
tain and the Lehigh hills. The Mahoning creek flows 
at the foot of the Mahoning mountain, and empties in- 
to the Lehigh within half a mile of the village, where 
has been discovered a mineral spring, the waters of 
which have proved highly beneficial in many cases of 
disease and debility. 

The Lehigh Water Gap is 3 miles farther. The 
river is here confined within very narrow' limits, being 
bounded on either side with the bold and precipitous 
Kittatinny mountains. The scenery is in a high de- 



100 BETHLEHEM. 

gree wild, picturesque, and frequently sublime. Below 
the mountains, the features of nature are less magnifi- 
cent, but still follow in a romantic succession of strong- 
ly contrasted and elegant landscapes. 

Bethlehem is 11 miles from the Water Grap. It is 
a settlement of the Moravians, or United Brethren. 
The situation is healthful and pleasant, and it is a place 
much resorted to in the summer months. The church 
belonging to the society is one of the largest in the 
state, though exhibiting in is structure much plainness. 
From its steeple a very beautiful, picturesque and ex- 
tended view can be obtained. In one direction the 
scene stretches for upwards of twenty miles along the 
course of the Lehigh and the Water Gap, the wander- 
ing explorations of the eye terminating at the Blue 
Mountain range. 

When a death occurs, a part of the choir ascend the 
steeple, where a requium or funeral hymn is sung for 
their departed brother or sister. The body is subse- 
quently placed in what is termed the " corpse house," a 
building detached from all others, where it remains 
three days, typical of the death and burial of the Sav- 
iour, and then is interred in the church yard. This is 
divided into various departments and methodically ar- 
ranged, though with much plainness and simplicity. 

The society take charge of their own poor, of which, 
however, there are very few — a strong argument in fa- 
vor of their regulations. 

The town is supplied with water from the Monocks- 
sy creek. The works are said to be the oldest in the 
state, having been in operation more than eighty yeara. 



RlOKRIS CAKA?.. 



101 



^Those at Fairmount, Philadelphia, are constnicJed up- 
on similar principles. The house where Gen. La Fay- 
ette lay during his recovery from the wound he receiv- 
ed at the battle of Brandywine, is pointed out here. 
His nurse on that occasion, who had continued to re- 
side in the place, received a visit from him when he 
was last in this country. 

Easton is 12 miles from Bethlehem, and is the capi- 
ital of Northampton county, Penn. It is located on the 
Delaware river, immediately above the entrance of the 
Lehigh, in a valley between the Musconetcunk moun- 
tains. Several rude and isolated" hills stand in the val- 
ley, commanding extensive views and giving to the 
place a picturesque appearance. The town is tasteful- 
ly laid out, with an open square in the centre, and con- 
tains several handsome dwellings. Its public buildings 
are a college, court house, jail, 3 churches, a bank and 
an academy, A bridge extending across the Delaware 
at this place cost §60,000. There is also a chain bridge 
across the Lehigh. 

The location of Easton is highly favorable for trade. 
Besides the great advantages here possessed for man- 
ufacturing purposes, and the contiguity of the place to 
the Delaware and Lehigh river, it is the point at which 
three important canals, the Delaware, the Lehigh and 
the Morris, concentrate. (See p. 78.) 

The Morris Canal extends from Easton to New- 
ark, N. Jersev, a distance of S6 miles, and from thence 
to Powles' Hook, opposite New-York, 8 miles further, 
hock age 1600 feet, which is surmounted by inclined 
planes. From Newark to Patterson, the country thro' 



102 DELAWARE tVATEK GAP, 

tvliich the canal passes is beautiful. At the latter place 
a view of the extensive manufactories is had, located 
on the north. On the south, the canal for some dis- 
tance is bounded by mountainous rugged cliffs, the 
rocky excavations through which were attended with 
^reat labor and expense. Four miles above Pater- 
son is what is called the Grand Aqueduct across the 
Passaic river at the Little Falls. This aqueduct may 
justly be ranked, for its admirable construction, work- 
manship, space of the arch and elevation, with the 
greatest objects of curiosity in artificial navigation, and 
altogether may be considered superior to any thing of 
the kind in this countr3% Half a mile further is an 
aqueduct across the Pompton river, a work of consider- 
able magnitude. The whole route, indeed, from New- 
ark to Easton is interesting, and worthy the attention 
of the tourist. 

Fi'om Eastou to the Delaware Wind Gap, an important 
passage through the Blue Mountains, is 12 miles, in a 
northwardly direction. 

From Easton to the Delaicare Water Gap, the distance 
is 23 miles. The route proceeds up the river to Rich- 
mond, 14 miles ; from thence to Wiiliamsburgh, 4 
miles ; and from the latter place to the Water Gap, 5 
miles. The current of the stream is here contracted at 
the base of two lofty mountains in opposite directions, 
between which the passage is extremely narrow. It is 
supposed that here was formerly a barrier over which 
the river flowed in the form of a cataract, which was 
subsequently worn away, leaving a smooth unruffled 
current. The scene is wild and highly interesting. 



Newark:. 103 

Prom Easton to Schooleifs Mountain and thence to JVewv 
Tork, the whole distance is 71 miles as follows : 



Miles. 
From Easton to Phil- 

ipsburgh, 1 

Top of Schooley's 

Mountain, 24 

Mendham,,. 12 



Miles. 

Morristown,,.. 6 

Passaic river, , 7 

Newark, .• II 

New- York, 10 



Schooley's Mountain, in New- Jersey, is a place of 
fashionable resort from New- York, in the summer 
months, owing to its cool, airy and healthful situation, 
and to the extensive prospect afibrded from its top ; on 
which there is an excellent public house. Within a 
mile of its summit there are mineral springs, which are 
Usually resorted to by visitants at the mountain hr^vie, 

Newark, N. J., which is located on the route, and 
whicii is within 10 miles of N. York, is one of the most 
elegant cities in the union. It is situated near the 
west bank of the Passaic river, 3 miles from its mouth, 
and is laid out in regular streets, the principal being 
200 feet wide. The public square, near the centre, is 
Very handsome, and is surrounded by a number of ele- 
gant private dwellings. The public buildings in the 
place are a court house, jail, two banks, an academy, 
and eight churches. The population in 1830 was 10,705, 
and cannot, at the present time, (1837,) be less than 
15,000. A rail road extends from this place to Jersey 
City, opposite New-York, so that the intercourse be- 
tween the two places is rapid and frequent. 

Having thus far diverged from the usual route to the 
north, for the purpose of describing the coal region, and 
I 



104 FROM PHlI.ADrtPHIA TO N'EW-YORK. 

the most interesting natural and artificial objects con- 
nected therewith, we return tc Philadelphia, to resume 
the regular excursion. 

FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

There being two prominent routes, we ffive a sketch 
of each for the convenience and choice of travellers. 

Route by the Camden and Amboy Rail Road — 
85 miles. 
The intermediate distances are as follow : 

By steam boat. 

Miles. 
From Philadelphia to 
Burlington, N". J. . . 18 

Bristol, Penn 1 

Bordentown, N. J... . 9 



By rail road. 

Miles, 

Hightstown, , 14 

Amboy, 20 

By steam boat. 
New- York, 23 



Burlington, th.e capital of the county of the same 
name, is 12 miles below Trenton and 18 above Phila- 
delphia. It is delightfully situated, and contains some 
handsome public and private houses. 

Bristol is one mile farther, on the opposite side of 
the Delaware, in Bucks county, Pennsylvania. This 
place contains several fine residences, and is an attrac- 
tive and interesting country village. Some of its flow- 
er gardens, which are unusually elegant, and located 
on the margin of the river, add much to the beauty of 
its appearance. 

Borden TOWN, 9 miles farther, and six below Tren- 
ton, is noted as the residence of the Count de Sur- 



FROM PHII.ADEirHrA TO NEW-YORK. 105 

villicrs, the ox-king ot" Spain, whose elecaiit mansion 
was within a few years burnt by accident, but is now- 
rebuilt with additional embellishment and magnifi- 
cence. His villa commands a fine view of the river. 
The soil around it is unproductive ; but by the aid of 
culture and art, his residence now exhibits an appear- 
ance of taste and munificence worthy the princely for- 
tune and dignity of its proprietor. 

At Bordentown the Camden and Ambot Rail Road 
is taken, wiiich extends to South Amboy ; from 
whence a steam boat is again taken, which lands pas- 
sengers at New-Xork. The charter of this road was 
granted by the legislature of New- Jersey in 1830, and 
the travel between Bordentown and Amboy commenced 
in 1832. Camden, the south-western point at which 
the road terminates, is a small village on the Delaware, 
opposite Philadelphia, 27 miles below Bordentown, 
where the river is about one mile in breadth. In the 
winter, passengers are generally received and landed 
at that point ; but in summer, a steam boat passage 
between Philadelphia and Bordentown is generally pre- 
ferred. South Amboy is seated at the head of the Rar- 
itan Bay, 61 miles and ten chains from Camden, as 
measured by the course of the rail road ; and is about 
23 miles from the city of New- York, (by water,) mak- 
ing the whole distance from Camden to New- York 
rather less than 85 miles. 

South Amboy, where the road terminates at the eas- 
tern end, is one of the finest harbors in the United 
States, accessible at all seasons for the largest vessels 
from the sea and from New-York ; so that the commu- 



106 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-TORK. 

nication with Philadelphia and foreign countries by this 
route will be uninterrupted. Possessing-, too, great ad- 
vantages for a port of entry and departure, during the 
winter months, and having added to it the facilities for 
transportation of the cargoes of merchant traders by the 
rail road, it must become an important point for the 
mercantile operations of Philadelphia, independently of 
the advantages of its nearer connection with N. York, 

A single track, with occasional turnouts, has thus 
far only been made ; but the workmanship and mate- 
rials are of the best and most durable kind. Entire iron 
rails are used, which rest on stone blocks and sleepers. 

The carriages are among the best which have been 
constructed ; and a trip across the road will be ranked 
among the novelties and pleasures of a northern tour. 

From South Amboy a steam boat is taken for New- 
York, 23 miles distant. In proceeding up the bay, 
Staten,Bediow and Governor's Islands are successively 
passed — the former containing several beautiful country 
seats, and the latter being used exclusively as a milita- 
ry post. 

The price of fare from Philadelphia to New- York is 
from ^3 to ^3,50, and the route is usually performed in 
from 9 to 10 hours. 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEXV-TORK. 107 

Route by the xoay of Trenton, 
S5| miles. 
The intermediate distances are as follow : 
Miles. 
By rail road. 
From Philadelphia to 

Bristol, 19 

Trenton, 8^ 

By stage. 

Princeton, 10 

Kingston, 3 

New-Brunswick,. ... 13 



Miles 
By rail road 

Railway, 12 

Eiizabethtown, 5 

Newark, 6 

Jersey City, 8 

By Steam-boat. 

New- York, 1 



The Philadelphia and Trenton Rail Road is 
taken at the depot in the city. This road, which is re- 
markably level, extends along the verdant banks of the 
Delaware, and passes through the village of Bristol to 
Trenton ; from which point it would extend to New- 
Brunswick, 26 miles farther, and then unite with the 
New-Jersey rail road to Jersey City opposite New- 
York, were it not for the charter of the Camden and 
Amboy Rail Road Company, which secures to them 
the exclusive privilege of a rail road across New- Jer- 
sey. Passengers, therefore, in taking this route, trav- 
el a distance of 26 miles by stage ; but the interesting 
villages through which it passes will, in a measure, 
compensate for the change and the extra time employ- 
ed in performing the journey. 

Bristol, 19 miles from Philadelphia, is the first vil- 
lage of importance on this route, and has already been 
noticed at p. 104. 

Trenton, 8^ miles farther, is the termination of the 
rail road. It is the capital of New-Jersey, and con- 
i2 



108 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

tains about 7000 inhabitants, a state house, two banks, 
and six houses of public worship. At this place the 
steam boat navigation on the Delaware terminates. 
The river here forms a considerable rapid or fall, near 
which is an elevated bridge, about a quarter of a mile 
long, neatly roofed, and the sides enclosed to secure it 
from the weather. 

It was in this section of New-Jersey, and at the 
gloomiest period of the contest, that some of the most 
important scenes of the revolution, and those which 
gave point and character to the American war, trans- 
pired. It was for a length of time in the possession 
of the English, and M'as the theatre of much carnage 
and bloodshed. The capture of a detachment of Eng- 
lish and German troops in December, 1776, at Tren- 
ton, was the first signal victory that crowned our arms 
in the revolutionary contest. It cheered the drooping 
and depressed spirits of our little army, and imparted 
new vigor to the cause of liberty. The retreat of 
Washington with his troops from Trenton, considering 
the circumstances which surrounded him, and the se- 
crecy with which it was accomplished, may be justly 
considered as one of the most successful movements of 
that eventful period. 

On the arrival of the rail road carriages at Trenton, 
stages are taken for N. Brunswick, which pass through 

Princeton, 10 miles from the former place. The 
village, which is handsome, is located on elevated 
ground, and overlooks an extensive prospect. It con- 
tains a college, theological seminary, a presbyterian 
church, and about 100 dwelling houses. The college 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-TCRK. 109 

of New- Jersey was founded in 1733. It has a presi- 
dent, 3 professors, and 2 tutors. 

The theological seminary was established in 1812, 
by the general assembly of the presbyterian church. 
It has 3 professors, a respectable Ubrary, and upwards 
of lOO students. 

In the college yard are the remains of the presidents 
of the institution. Burr, Edwards, Davis, Finley, With- 
erspoon and Smith. 

New-Brunswick is 13 miles farther. In this village 
is the theological seminary under the direction of the 
synod of the Dutch reformed church. The village also 
contains a court house, jail, a college edifice, and five 
churches.* 

The New-Jersey Rail Road is here taken, which 
passes through Rahway and Ehzabethtown to New- 
ark ; from whence the Newark rail road is taken to 
Jersey City. 

Rahway is a small village, 12 miles from New- 
Brunswick. 

Elizabethtown, 5 miles farther, is pleasantly situ- 
ated on a creek emptying into Staten Island Sound. A 
steam boat plies between the Point and New-York. 

Newark, 6 miles farther, has been already noticed 
at page 103. 

* A steam boat or rail road can be taken at this place 
for New-York ; but the latter is generally preferred. 



110 NE'.V-yORK. 

Between five and six miles from rsewark, the rail 
road unites with one leading to Patterson, noticed in a 
subsequent page. The two, passing through Bergen 
Hill, a deep and rocky excavation, are used in common 
for about 2| miles to the terminating point at 

Jersey City ; from whence a steam boat crosses 
the bay, about one mile, to 

NEW-YORK. 

This city is situated on the point of Manhattan Island, 
at the confluence of the Hudson and East rivers, in lati- 
tude 40. It was founded by the Dutch in 1612, under 
the name of New- Amsterdam, and was incorporated 
by the British in 1 696. The island on Mhich it stands 
is 15 miles long, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. The 
city is situated on the south part of the island, and ex- 
tends along the Hudson about 2^ miles, and from the 
Battery along East river nearly 4 miles. The early 
settlements were commenced at and near the Battery, 
from which streets were extended without reference to 
order or regularity ; and this accounts for the seeming 
want of taste, in laying out the streets towards the 
docks and harbor. 

The Battery is situated at the south-west point of 
the city, opposite to Governor's Island. It is hand- 
somely laid out into gravel walks, and tastefully deco- 
rated with shrubbery and trees. It is much frequent- 
ed by the citizens in the warm season, as well for the 
purpose of partaking of the refreshing sea breeze, as 
for enjoying the prospect, which, from this place, in- 
cludes the harbor with its various shipping, Governor's 



NKWYORK- 



111 



island, Cedlow's island, and Ellis' island, on each of 
which'are military stations, the shores of New-Jersey 
and Long Island, with the flourishing city of Brooklyn, 
and the numerous country seats in its vicinity. 

Castle Garden, connected with the Battery hy a 
bridge, is much frequented during the summer eve- 
nings. It has a fine promenade, and is often rendered 
attractive by a display of fire works from its enclosure, 
and other amusements. 

Broadway, the most splendid street in the city, runs 
through the centre and extends 3 miles in length and 
about^SO feet in width. It is the great and fashionable 
resort for citizens and strangers, and is much crowded 
during pleasant weather. In this avenue are Grace, 
Trinity and St, Paul's churches, the Astor House, City 
Hotel, Congress Hall, American Hotel, Mansion 
House, Atlantic Hotel, Franklin House, Washington 
Hotel, and a variety of shops with elegant and exten- 
sive assortments of merchandize of every description. 

Opposite Trinity church, Wall street opens, which 
contains m.ost of the banks, together with the principal 
part of the brokers' and insurance offices. 

On passing up Broadway still farther, is Courtlandt 
street, which leads to the Hudson river, where the 
steam boats start for Albany. At the foot of Court- 
landt street, also, is the ferry to Jersey city. A little 
further up is Fulton street, on the corner of which and 
Broadway stands St. Paul's church. Fulton street leads 
to the East river ; along the docks of which are the 
steam boats for Bridgeport, Saybrook, Hartford, New- 
London, Norwich and New-Haven. At the foot of 
Barclay street, extending to the Hudson river west of 



112 NEAV-YORK. 

the Park, are a part of the Albany boats, and also the 
Hoboken ferry. 

Above St. Paul's church is the Park and City Ilall, 
situated in the centre of the city, the former containing 
about 1 1 acres, which are ornamented with much taste, 
and enclosed by a substantial iron railing. It furnish- 
es a cool and fashionable resort for men of business 
and pleasure, after the fatigue and heat of a summer's 
day. On the right is the Park Theatre, and on the left 
Park Place, on the west side of which is Columbia Col- 
lege. The next street above Park Place is Murray, 
which leads to the Hoboken ferry, and also to the Prov- 
idence steam boats. 

Of the public buildings, (besides 23 banks, mostly 
located in Wall street,) the most prominent and im- 
portant is the 

City Hall, the front of which is built of white mar- 
ble. It is 216 feet long, 105 feet broad, and, including 
the attic story, 65 feet high. The rooms for holding 
the different courts of law are fitted up in a rich and ex- 
pensive style. The room for holding the mayor's court 
contains portaits of Washington, of the different gov- 
ernors of the state, and many of the most celebrated 
commanders of the army and navy of the United States. 
The foundation stone of this building was laid in 1803, 
and the whole finished in 1812, at an expense of $500,- 
000. It is one of the most elegant edifices in America, 
and reflects great credit on the inhabitants for their 
munificence and taste. 

The New City Hall, in the rear of the City Hall, is 
an extensive brick building, formerly the Alms House, 
which, with the buildings lately composing the Ro" 



XEW-TORK. J 13 

luriua and Debtors' Prison, arc now occupied tor the 
Post Office and other pubhc offices. 

The Merchants' Exchange, in Wall street, which 
was burnt on the night of the IGth of December, 1835,+ 
was an elegant structure, 114 feet long by 150 feet 
deep, and w^as erected at a cost of $230,000. On its 
ruins, however, a much more splendid and extensive 
edifice is soon to be erected. 

In the same street, on the corner of Nassau and ex- 
tending through to Pine street, a site has been selected 
for a new custom house, which, Avhen finished, will be 
one of the most substantial and elegant buildings in 
the city. It is to be 177 feet long and 89 feet wide, and 
is to be built after the model of the Parthenon at Ath- 
ens. The fronts will present splendid colonnades, with 
massive columns of the Doric order. The centre of the 
building will be surmounted by a dome about 60 feet in 
diameter. The entire structure is to be incombustible, 
and the cost is estimated at $500,000. 



* This was the most calamitous and by far the most 
extensive fire which ever took place in this country. 
A space of between 30 and 40 acres, covered with 
valuable stores, filled with merchandize, extending 
on the east river from Old-slip to Coenties'-slip, and 
back to Wall and nearly to Broad street, was rendered 
a mass of smoky ruins. The number of buildings de- 
stroyed was 648, and the amonnt of property lost esti- 
mated at between seventeen and eir;^hteen millions of 
dollars. Of the twenty-six insurance companies then 
in existence, ten were rendered insolvent. Yet, not- 
withstanding this severe conflagration and loss, the 
whole space was nearly covered with new and more 
costly buildings in less than one year thereafter ! 



\\A kew-tork. 

TrinItt Church, in Broadway, at the head of Wall 
street, from iis antique appearance, generally attracts 
the notice of strangers. The first church on this spot 
was erected in 1696. Originally small, it was enlarged 
in 1737 ; but during the fire which destroyed the west 
part of the city in 1776, while the British troops were in 
possession, it was destroyed, and not rebuilt till 1788. 
The present building is of stone, in Gothic style, and 
much like the old one, except a diminution in size, and 
has a steeple 198 feet high. It contains a chime of 
bells, the only set in the city, and an excellant organ. 

The cemetery surrounding it is ancient, and is encloS'^ 
ed by a substantial and costly iron railing. No inter- 
ments have taken place in this cemetery for some years, 
owing to a law prohibiting sepulture within the popu- 
lous parts of the city ; but it has been ascertained by 
authentic records kept, that more than one hundred and 
sixty thousand bodies have been here deposited, exclu- 
sive of the 7 years of the revolutionary war, when no 
records were kept. Among the illustrious dead who 
repose in this hallowed spot, are the remains of Gen» 
Hamilton and Capt. Lawrence. The monument over 
the grave of the former contains the following inscrip- 
tion : 

" To the memory of Alexander Hamilton, the 
corporation of Trinity Church has erected this monu- 
ment in testimony of their respect for the patriot of in- 
corruptible integrity, the soldier of approved valor, the 
statesman of consummate wisdom, whose talents and 
whose virtues will be admired by grateful posterity long 
after this marble shall have mouldeied into dust. He 
died July 2, 1804, aged 47." 



Kv^w-torvit. 115 

The monument to the memory of Capt. Lawrence, 
who was killed during the last war, in an engagement 
between the U. S. frigate Chesapeake, which he com» 
manded, and the Brilish frigate Shannon, represents a 
broken column, as emblematical of his premature death. 
It was erected at the expense of the corporation. 

Within the church, in rear of the altar, and directly 
facing the entrance of the aisle, is a beautit''ul and costly 
monument, erected to the memory of the distinguished 
and lamented Bishop Hobart. The design is allegori- 
cal, and highly expressive of the poetry of the art, and 
the inscription chaste and appropriate. 

St. Paul's Chapel is a superb structure further up 
Broadway, near the Park. It contains a portico of the 
Ionic order, consisting of four fluted pillars of brown 
stone, supporting a pediment, with a niche in thecen- 
tre containing a statue of St. Paul. Under the portico 
is a handsome monum.ent erected by order of Conc'-ess 
to the memory of Gen. Montgomery, who fell at the 
storming of Gluebec in 1775, and whose remains were 
brought to New- York and interred beneath the monu- 
ment in 1819. The spire of the church is 234 feet high ; 
and the whole building is esteemed one of the best 
specimens of architecture in the city. In the church 
yard adjoining is an elegant monument recently erected 
the memory of Thomas Addis Emmet, an eminent 
counsellor at law, and brother of the unfortunate Irish 
orator, Robert Emmet. The plinth of the monument is 
one entire block, 7 feet square and 12 inches thick. 
The Egyptian obelisk, standing on its base, is also in a 
single piece, and is rising of thirty -two feet high. The 
face towards Broadway is embellished with the Ameri- 

E 



116 NEW-YORR. 

can eagle, sheltering a harp unstrung, with a mcdalHon 
likeness of Emmet, and with two clasped hands, having 
stars around one wrist and shamrocks around the other. 
On the hce fronting Broadway is an English ; on that 
towards St. Paul's church, a Latin ; and on that to- 
wards Fulton street, an Irish inscription. 

St. Joiix's Chapel, in Varick street, opposite Hud- 
son Square, is an elegant edifice, ?.nd the most expen- 
sive churc'i in the city, having cost more than $5^200,000, 
Its spire is 240 feet in hei<:ht. 

St. Patrick's Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church, 
in Mott street, is one of the largest religious edifices 
in New-York. It is built of stone, 120 feet long, 80 
feet wide, and is a conspicuous object in approaching 
the city fi-om the east. 

There are about 150 other churches in the city, many 
cf which were erected at a very considerable expense, 
and are ornaments to those sections of the city in which 
they stand. 

Columbia College, above the City Hall, was char- 
tered m 1750, under the name of King's College. The 
edifice and adjoining grounds are extensive, and are ad- 
vantageously and handsomely located. 'I'hc cull?go 
contains a chapel, lecture rooms, hall, library, museum, 
and an extensive philosopliical and astronomical appa- 
ratus. The Hon. Wili.ia.m A. Duer, a gentleman of 
distinguished talents and learning, presides over the in- 
stitution. 

The Nev/-York University is situated between 
Wasliington-place and Wavcrly-place, and fronts 
Washington square towards the west. The building is 
of marble, 100 feet wide and 180 feet long, exhibiting a 



NEW- YORE. 1 1 7 

specimen of the English collegiate style of architecture, 
and forms a noble ornament to the square and to the 
part of the city in which it stands. 

The American Academy of the Fine Arts, is sit- 
uated in Barclay street, near Broadway. It exhibits an« 
nually in May a fine collection of paintings, sculpture, 
&c. A part of these were received from Napoleon, 
while First Consul of France. 

The New- York Historical Society in Chambers 
street, corner of Broadway, has a library of 10,0(J0 vol- 
umes, and a, valuable collection of coins and minerals. 

The New- York Society Library, in Nassau street, 
was commenced in 1740. and at the commencement of 
the revolution contained 3000 volumes, which were 
destroyed or taken away by the British troops. It 
was re established in 1780, and now consists of about 
20,000 volumes, many of which are very rare and val- 
uable. 

The Mercantile Library Assosiatio.v, in Clinton 
Hall, has a library of about 10,000 volumes. 

The College of Physician's and Surgeons is at 
pres?nt in Barclay street, near Broadway, but is soon 
to bo removed to a commodious building in Crosby 
street. 

The Park Theatre is a spacious edifice, adjoining 
the Park. It was originally built in 1798, at an expense 
of 6179,000, was destroyed by lire in 1S20, and re-built 
the folfowing year. It is 80 feet long, 165 deep, and 55 
high, and has generally been more liberally patronized 
than any other theatre in the city. 

There is also an Italian Opera house at the corner of 
Church and Leonard streets, a theatre in Chatham 



118 NEW-YORK. 

Street, and a circus at the corner of Varick and Charl- 
ton streets. 

The American Museum is opposite St. Paul's church 
in Broadway, and contains an immense collection of 
natural and artificial curiosities. 

Peale'5 Museum and Gallery of the Fine Arts 
is opposite the Park, and contains specimens of natural 
history, paintings, a superior cosmorama and lecture 
room. 

NiBLo's Garden, corner of Broadway and Prince 
street, is one of the most fashionable places of resort in 
the city. Tt has been laid out with great taste, and is 
decorated with shrubbery, flowers, &c. In the saloon, 
which is airy and elegant, theatrical and musical enter- 
tainments are frequently given. 

Of the public squares and parks, besides those already 
noticed, are the Bowling Green, located at the south- 
ern termination of Broadway ; Hudson Square, or St. 
John's Park, in the north-west part of the city, be- 
longing to Trinity Church; Vv'ashington Square, a 
mile and a half north of the City Hall ; Union Place, 
at the junction of Broadway and the Bowery; and 
Gramency Park, two miles north of the City Hall. 

HOTELS. 

AsTOR, House, Broadway, near St. Paul's church. 
This building, erected by John Jacob Astor, is compos- 
ed almost entirely of eastern granite, and presents a 
most noble and imposing appearance. It contains 390 
rooms, and can accommodate about 300 guests. 

The City Hotel, a few doors north of Trinity 
church, Broadway, is an old and highly respectable 



KEW-YOR«. 119 

tgstablishment, containing more than 100 parlors and 
lod^zinff roomSj (many ofthem designed for private fam- 
ilies) besides an asseml)ly room, principally used for 
concerts. The rooms are furnished in nood style, and 
the house, from its central location and iiood accommo- 
dations, has always enjoyed an extensive patronaae. 

'The Amcrjcan Hof el is delightfully siluatcd, front- 
ing the Park in Broadway, and is amonor tlie most fa- 
vored cstahlishm?nts in the cily. It is five stories high, 
and extends on Barclay street to the college of Physi- 
cians and Surgeons. Its public and private parlors and 
lodging rooms, which are numerous, are furnished in 
the best style, and it is extensively patronized by a 
fashionable and respectable company. 

The Mansion House, (Bunker's) 39 Broadwny, is a 
house of fashionable resort, with extensive and neat 
accommodations. 

The Atlantic Hotel, 5 Broadway, near the Batte- 
ry, is a charming location for such as are fond of partial 
retirement from the bustle incident to a crowded street. 

The Franklin House, 197 Broadway, has an ex- 
cellent reputation, and is well patronized. 

Holt's Hotel, forming an allincment on ihree 
streets, the one part in Water, another in Pearl, and its 
eastern limit facing on Fulton street, and occupying the 
entire block, is one of the most extensive establish- 
ments in the city. It is built of white marble, and is 
six stories high, exclusive of the basement, having an 
attic of ample dimensions, and surmounted by a lofty 
quadrangular tower, around which there is an extensive 
and pleasant promenade. Above this there is a spa- 
cious rotunda, from whose exalted summit a view is 
k2 



120 NEW-TORK. 

obtained of nearly the whole city, the East river, Brook- 
lyn, part of Long Island, the entire upper bay and har- 
bor, Staten Island, a very considerable extent of the 
Budson river and the Jersey shore. 

Besides the above, the following are among the prin- 
cipal public houses in the city : 

Washington Hotel, 282 Broadway; Clinton Ho- 
tel, Beekman, corner of Nassau street; Congress 
Hall, 142 Broadway; Exchange Hotel, 10 and 12 
Broad street; Lovejoy's Hotel, Park Row ; Nation- 
al Hotel, 112 Broadway ; North American Hotel, 
30 Bowery ; Tammany Hall, 166 Nassau street. 

There are also a number of private boarding houses, 
kept with much taste and on an extensive scale. They 
are mostly between the Battery and Grace church, in 
Broadway. 

The prices at these houses vary from $1 to $2,50 per 
day, and from $8 to $12 per week. 

In point of population, this city is the first in the 
United States, it having contained in 1835, 269,873 in- 
habitants, and in respect of trade it is now and will 
probably continue the first commercial metropolis in 
America. Though it cannot vie with Philadelphia, in 
point of beauty and regularity. New- York exhibits an 
air of novelty and grandeur very imposing to a stran- 
ger. Its ever bustling streets and crowded wharves, 
indicate an uncommon spirit of commercial enterprise. 
Its local situation embraces every advantage for com- 
merce ; and the canals, by opening an easy communi- 
cation between the fertile regions of the west and north 
and the city of New- York, have produced an astonish- 
ing change in its growth and prosperity. At no very 



NEW-YORK. 121^ 

distant period, New- York, with all its natural and ar- 
tificial advantages, will probably become the greatest 
commercial metropolis in the world. 

Packets. — The Liverpool line of packets consists of 
sixteen ships of the first class, one of which sails 
weekly from each city. 

The London line of packets consists of eight large 
ships, one of which sails from each city once in two 
weeks. 

The New- York and Havre line consists of sixteen 
ships, one of which sails weekly from each city. 

New-Orleans packets sail from New- York on the 
5th, 8th, 1 3th, 20th, 22d and 28th, and from New-Or- 
leans on the 1st, 5th, 13th, 15th, 20th and 28th of each 
month. 

There are also lines of packets to Kingston, (Ja- 
maica,) Carthagena, Mexico, and to all the principal 
southern ports. 

The Steam Boats, for Philadelphia start from the 
north side of the Battery; for Charleston, S. C. near, 
the foot of Morris street ; for Providence and Boston; 
near the foot of Morris street, and from the foot of Mur- 
ray street on the North river side of the city ; for New- 
Haven and Hartford, near the foot of Beekman street, 
on the East river ; for Albany and Troy and the inter- 
mediate landings, at the foot of Courtlandt and Barclay 
streets. 

Public Coaches. — Strangers visiting New- York are 
liable to suffer from exorbitant exactions for coach hire. 
To guard against this, the corporation have licenced an 
adequate number of hackmen, who may be found at 
several convenient stands in the city, each coach being 



122 ESCtTRSION'S. 

nnmbGred. The rules and regulations to which they 
are subjected, can be found in the "Picture of New- 
York and Stranraer's Guide," published by Mr. Good- 
rich, 124 Broadway. 

An excursion to the upper parts of the city, and to 
Greenwich, can be effected at almost any time during 
the day, i.i an omnibus, of which there are very great 
numbers constantly passing through Broadway and 
Wall street. The usual charge in these carriages, 
which have their regular routes, is MA cents. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Among the numerous places of fashionable resort in 
the vicinity of New- York, are Governor's, Bedlow's 
and S'taten Islands, within the harbor; Orange Springs, 
near Newark, Paterson, the Passaic Falls, Hobokcn 
and \VechawU,SchooIey's Mountain, and Long Branch, 
in New-Jers3y, on the west ; Manhattan Island, on the 
north ; and the tour of Long Island on the cast. 

Governor's and Bedloio'^s Islands are usually approach- 
ed only in row boats, and arc less frequented on that 
account. 

Staten Island, south of the city, was noticed at page 
108. 

In an excursion to Paler son aad to the Passaic Fa Is 
the Paterson rail road, which commences at Jersey 
City, and which was noticed at p. 110, is taken. The 
whole length of the road is about 15 miles, in a north- 
westerly direction from New- York, and affords an easy 
conveyance to the Passaic Falls and the thriving man- 
ufacturing village in their vicinity. The perpendicular 
pitch is 70 feet into a narrow and rocky chasm, though 



HARI.AF..M RAIL P.OaD- 123, 

most of the water has been diverted into a canal in anoth 
er direction, for hydraulic purposes ; still the scenery is 
wild and imposing, and the falls are among the great- 
est natural curiosities of this country. The Morris ca- 
nal, noticed at p. 101, passes near them. 

Hoboken and Weehaiok are on the west side of the 
Hudson river, opposite the northern parts of New- York, 
near which is the Hohoken duelling ground, which can- 
not be easily approached, except in a boat. A monu- 
ment was here erected some years since to the memory 
of Gen. Hamilton : but it has since been removed. 

Schooley''s Mountain, 50 miles west of New- York, was 
noticed at p. 103. 

Long Branch, is 30 miles south of New- York, on the 
eastern shore of New-Jersey, and on the immediate 
bank of the Atlantic Ocean, an extensive view of which 
is here obtained. A bathing establishment is erected, 
and the bank, which is elevated to a height of 30 or 
40 feet for several miles, affords a beautiful promenade. 
Sandy Hook and Neversink can be visited on this route, 
the heights of the latter affording an extensive view of 
the marine coast. 

The Harlaem Rail Road commences at Spring 
street in the Bowery, and extends to Harlaem, 7^ miles 
distant. The tunnel at Yorkville, about 5 miles from 
Spring street, through a sohd rock of some extent, is 
an object of curiosity, and will of itself amply compen- 
sate a traveller for a trip over the road. In approach- 
ing Harlaem, the Assylum for the insane, on very ele- 
vated ground and the heights of Fort Washington ara 
readily distinguished. 



124 HTTRL GATE — BROOKLYN', 

In returning, by taking a private carriage and pass- 
ing down the East river side, Hurl Gate, the Ahns- 
House and House of Refuge maybe visited. 

Hurl Gate is a narrovi' and apparently a dangerous 
strait in the river, 8 miles from the city, between the 
islands of Manhattan and Parsell on the N. W. and 
Long Island on the S, E, in which, at low v>'ater, there 
are numerous whirlpools or currents, occasioned by 
huge masses of rock projecting in various places, giv- 
ing to the river only a very contracted passage. At 
high water, these masses are more or less concealed, 
and the current is in a degree unruffled. Losses of 
vessels were formerly experienced here ; but none have 
been known in some years. 

Brooklyn, (on Long Island,) directly opposite New- 
York, from which it is separated by the East river, is 
reached by steam boats, which are constantly plying at 
the ferry between Fulton street in New- York and Ful- 
ton street in Brooklyn ; at the ferry from Catharine 
street in N. York to Main street in Brooklyn ; at the 
Jackson street or Navy Y'ard ''erry; and at the south 
ferry betu'ecn Whitehall in New- York and Atlantic 
street in Brooklyn, The growth of Brooklyn (which 
was chartered as a city in 1S34) has been almost 
unexampled. In 1S20, it had a population of only 
7000 ; in 1830, of l.''),394 ; and in 1835, of about 25,000. 
Besides several public buildings, including a City Hall, 
which is now erecting, the city contains 17 churches, 3 
banks, 2 insurance companies, and several literary in- 
stitutions ; among which, the Collegiate Institute for 
Young Ladies stands pre-eminent. Its contiguity to 



BROOKLYN. 125 

the metropolis, and the facilities afforded for communi- 
cating between the two places, have induced many 
merchants and men of business to select Brooklyn as 
a residence in preference to liie upper parts of New- 
York. The former also contains several elegnnt coun- 
try seats and public jrardens. Those en the bank 
contijiuous to the East river, fi-om their elevated sit- 
uaiion, ovcrlookins; the. bay of New York, and com- 
manding a view of a great part of that city, are pecu- 
liarly attractive and romantic. North easuvardiy, on 
a tract of land called the Wallabout, is a U. S. navy 
yard, where r.rc erected a house for the commandant, 
several spacious ware houses, and an immense wooden 
edifice, under which the largest ships of war are built. 
The steam frigate Fulton, v.'hich lay near 'tho navy 
yard, and which was an object of attraction, was blown 
up at this place in 1829, occasioning the loss of several 
lives. 

Brooklyn is intimately connected with important 
events of the revolution, and in its vicinity are pointed 
out some remaining vestiges of fortificaiions and mili- 
tary works erected during that eventful period. 'J he 
road to Flatbush (4 miles east) c.osscs thj ground on 
which the battle of the 27th July, 1776, was fought, 
■which resulted in a severe less to the Americans and 
the capture of Generals Sullivan and Sterling. The 
marshes in which so many lives were lest in retreating 
from the Briiish army are south of this. 

The Brookltx, Jamaica and Long Island Bail 
Road commences at the Atlantic street or south ferry, 
and is already completed to Jamaica, a pleasant village 
12 miles distant. From thence it is to bo extended to 



126 FROM VEU'-TORK To ALCAKt- 

Sag Harbor on the east end of Long Island, about 3? 
miles from Jamaica, and is intended as a substitute for 
steam boat navigation on the Sound. 

From Jamaica to Rockaway, bordering on the At- 
lantic, is 9 miles. Since the erection of the Marine 
Pavilion, one of the most elegant public establishments 
in the union, this has become a place of much resort in 
the summer months. The building is placed upon the 
margin of the ocean, and as near to it as the nature of 
the ground would allow. Its front is 230 feet, with a 
piazza the whole length of twenty feet wide, support^ 
ed by columns, and with one in the rear, of nearly 
the same dimensions. The depth of the main body 
of the building is forty feet, with wings at each end. 
The dining room is 110 feet in length, and as it is the 
whole width of the building, two rows of large win- 

. dows obviate that greatest of all evils in a pubhc house, 
a hot atmosphere arising from a hot dinner on a hot 
day. The ladies' drawing room is spacious, and is 

. lightly and most appropriately furnished, and the house 
can conveniently accommodate about 300 guests. 

A fine view of the ocean is obtained from the balco- 
ny of the Pavilion, which, from its unceasing roar and 
turbulence, is rendered unusually sublime. 

FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBAKY, 

A distance, by water, of 144 miles, and by land, 
measuring between the respective post offices, of 160 
miles, a communication is alternately kept up by a line 
of stages in the winter season, and by steam boats dur- 
ing the absence of ice in the Hudson. The following 
is a table of distances I>'»^"'"?en the two places : 



FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. l27 

Distance by water from 









9. ^ ^ 



C3 

New- York, 144 

Weehawken, 6 6 1 38 

Palisadoes, southern termination, 2 8 136 

Fo.t Washington, 4 12 132 

Tappan Bay, southern extremity, 12 24 120 

Sing Sing, 8 32 112 

Haverstraw Bay, 2 34 110 

Stoney Point, 5 39 105 

Verpknck's Point, 1 40 104 

Horse Race, (Highlands,) x.... 2 42 102 

Anthony's Nose, 3 45 99 

West Point, 5 50 94 

Pollopellsland, 6 56 88 

Newburgh, 4 60 84 

Milton, IT 71 73 

Poughkeepsie, 4 75 63 

HydePark, 5 80 63 

Rhinebeck, 10 90 53 

Redhook, lower landing, 7 97 46 

Redhook, upper do 3 100 43 

Catskill, 11 111 32 

Hudson, 5 116 27 

Coxsackie, 8 124 19 

Kinderhook, 2 126 18 

New-Baltimore, 4 130 13 

Schodack, 4 134 9 

Albany, 10 144 

L 



128 PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. 

Boats leave New- York for Albany at 7 o'clock A. 
M. and at 5 P. M., and the trip is usually performed in 
from 12 to 14 hours— fare $3, exclusive of meals. A 
morning boat will prove the most interesting to those 
who have never performed the route by day-light ; as 
it will afford an opportunity of witnessing the rich 
scenery and numerous villages and country seats be- 
tween the two cities. 

THE PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. 

Besides the pleasure of a steam boat passagej the 
Hudson river presents to the tourist a variety of natu- 
ral scenery which it will be difficult to find elsewhere 
in a journey of the same extent. To the gratification 
derived from a prospect of the beautiful and sublime 
objects of nature, the effect of the most striking contrast 
is added, to render the scene truly picturesque and en- 
chanting. On the one hand are seen summits, crown- 
ed with forests, apparently impenetrable to the foot- 
steps of cultivation ; and on the other, beautiful and 
extensive lawns, checkered with the abodes of hus- 
bandry, and glowing in all the rich verdure of summer ; 
while, in the same circumstances of vision, may be seen 
the fading view of some town or city, and in perspec- 
tive a perpetual opening scenery of forests and cultiva- 
tion, plains and mountains, towns and villages, impart- 
ing to the beholder all the charms of novelty, with the 
highest emotions of the sublime. 

Weehawken, about 6 miles from the city, on the 
west side of the river, is pointed out to the traveller as 
the ground on which Geu. Hamilton fell in a duel with 



FALISADOES — FORT LEE. 129 

Col. Burr. It is a small spot on the margin of the riv- 
er, with huge rocks on three sides, effectually screen- 
iiiCT it from the observation of man, except from the riv- 
er ; and probably has, for that cause, been selected as 
a suitable place for settling affairs of honor. Till with- 
in a {"ew years, it contiiined a monument erected to the 
memory of Gen. Hamilton by the St, Andrews society 5 
but it has been removed. His body was deposited in 
the ground attached to Trinity Church in the city, 
where there is a handsome monument, enclosed in aa 
iron railing. (See page 1 14.) 

The Palisadoes, v/hich first make their appearancs 
on the Hudson, about 8 miles from New- York, are a 
range of rocks from 20 to 550 feet in height, and ex- 
tend from thence to Tappan, a distance'' of about 20 
miles. In some places they rise almost perpendicular- 
ly from the shore, and form, for several miles in extent, 
a sohd wall of rock, diversified only by an occasional 
fishing hut on the beach at their base, or wood slides 
down their sides, and sometimes by an interval of a 
few acres of arable land, affording an opening for a 
landing place, and a steep road leading to their top. 
On the opposite side of the river, the land is varied by 
hill and dale, cultivated fields and woods, with cottages 
and country seats. The land in this place, however, 
back from the river, rises in rocky hills, and becomes 
more precipitous as you advance into Westchester 
county. 

Twelve miles from New- York, the boat passes the 
site of Fort Lee, on the brow of the Palisadoes, at the 
height of 300 feet above the river ; nearly opposite to 



130 TAPPAN BAT — TARRTTOWN. 

which, on a high hill on the east side of the river, stood 
Fort Washington. In October, 1776, after the evac- 
uation of New-York by the American troops, followed 
the battle of White Plains, by which name is known 
the high ground on the east, between the Hudson river 
and the Sound above Kingsbridge, whence Washington 
retreated to Peekskill. Fort Washington was then 
taken by the Hessians and British, and the garrison, 
composed of 2600 militia and regulartroops, surrender- 
ed prisoners of war. The surrender of Fort Lee fol- 
lowed soon after Washington crossed the Hudson. 
There was also on the east side another fort, called In- 
dependence. 

Twenty-four miles above New- York the river ex- 
pands and forms what is called Tappan Bay. The 
little village of Tappan,* a place of much note during 
Andre and Arnold's conspiracy, is situated on its wes- 
tern shore. The spot of Andre's grave is still pointed 
out near this village, though his remains were conveyed 
to England a few years since, by order of the British 
government. This bay is from 2 to 5 miles wide, and 
8 miles long, terminating at Teller's Point. 

About a mile above Tappan village, on the eastern 
shore, is the village of Tarrttown, where Andre was 
captured by Paulding, Van Wart and Williams, the 
American militia-mcn. Paulding died some years ago, 
and a monument was erected over his grave by the cor- 
poration of New- York. Van Wart died more recent- 

* This is the point at which the New- York and Erie 
rail road commences, and which it is contemplated to 
extend to Lake Erie, a distance of about 470 miles. 



HATERSTRAW BAT— THE HIGHLANDS. 13i 

iv and a monument to his memory has been erected by 
the citizens of Westchester county. It is a neat struc 
ture of white marble, consisting of a base of three as- 
cending steps, and a pedestal upon which stands an 
obelisl^; in all, being from fifteen to eighteen feet lugh. 
It stands by the road side, in a retired valley m the 
town of Greenbush, about three miles east ot Tarry^ 

town. _ .1 „ 

Near the northern extremity of Tappan Bay, on the 
eastern shore, is the Sing Sing state prison. It com- 
prises 800 dormitories or solitary cells, is 4 stories high, 
and occupies about 50 by 500 feet of ground. From 
each end of the main building, which stands parallel 
with the river, in a westerly direction, are earned out 
win-s, 300 feet in extent, forming a spacious inner 
yard', open only to the river. The wings, composed ot 
marble, are constructed for workshops, a chapel, kitch- 
en, hospital, &c. The chapel is of sufficient dimen- 
sions to hold 900 persons. The keeper's house, on the 
south-eastern end of the main building, is also con- 
structed of marble. The number of convicts in the 
prison is usually from 800 to tOOO. Its erection was 
commenced in 1825, and its cost is estimated at rismg 
of ^200,000. 

Haverstraw Bay commences 34 miles from New- 
York, and terminates at Stoney and Verplanck's 
Points ; being about 6 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 
in width. Haverstraw village is on the west side ot 
this bay. 

The Highlands, or FishkiU Mountains, which first 
appear about 40 miles from New- York, will attract no. 
l2 



^32 Caldwell's landing, 

tice, not only from their grandeur and sublimity, but al- 
so from their association with some of the most impor- 
tant events of the revolution. This chain of mountains 
is about 16 miles in width, and extends along both sides 
of the Hudson, to the distance of 20 miles. The height 
ofthe principal has been estimated at 1565 feet. Ac- 
cording to the theory of the late Doctor Mitchell, this 
thick and solid barrier seems in ancient days to have 
impeded the course of the water, and to have raised a 
lake high enough to cover all the country to duaker 
Hill and the Laconick Mountains on the east, and to 
Shau-ai^gunk and the Catskill Mountains on the west; 
extending to the Little Falls of the Mohawk, and to 
Hadley Falls on the lludson— but by some convulsion 
of nature, the mountain chain has been broken, and the 
rushing waters found their way to the now New- York 
bay. At the entrance of the Highlands, on the south, 
IS the site of an old fort on Verplanck's Point, opposite 
to which stood the fort of Stoney Point, which was tak- 
en from Gen. Wayne in 1778, and re-taken by him the 
same year. 

Caldwell's Landing, 45 miles north of New- York, 
is the first landing made hy the boats in ascending the 
river; directly opposite to which is Peekskill, pleas- 
antly situated about half a mile from the river. 

A short distance north of Caldwell's, commences 
what is termed the Horse Race. This consists of an 
angle in the river, which, for a little more than a mile, 
takes an eastwardly direction, contracted to a very 
narrow space within bold and rocky mountains ; one 
ofwhich, Anthony's Nose, is 1228 feet high, and is 



WEST POINT. 



135 



opposite the mouth of Montgomery creek, overlooking 
Forts Montgomery and Clinton. These forts, under 
the comman°d of Gen. Putnam, were captured by the 
British troops under Sir Henry Clinton, in 1777, when 
on his way to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ; the 
news of whose surrender, however, reached Sir Henry 
when he had proceeded as far as Kingston, 50 miles 
higher up, and changed his advance into a retreat. 
Bloody Pond, so called from its being the place in 
which the bodies of the slain were thrown after the 
defences of these forts, is in the rear of Fort Clinton. 

West Point, 50 miles from New- York, one of the 
most impregnable posts during the revolutionary war, 
is situated on the west side of the Hudson, near the 
entrance of the Highlands on the north. It formed an 
important fastness of the American army during the 
eight years contest with the British nation ; and the 
consequence attached to it, in a military point of view, 
was evinced by the repeated but unsuccessful efforts of 
the enemy to obtain it. It was here that Arnold con- 
ceived the horrid purpose of bartering his country for 
gold.* This conspiracy, however, which aimed a death 
blow to liberty in the western hemisphere, resulted only 
in the universal contempt and ignominy of Arnold, 
and in the lamented death of the unfortunate Andre. 



* The residence of Gen. Arnold was at the house 
and farm of Col. Beverly Robinson, opposite West 
Point, on the east bank of the Hudson. The house is 
slill a conspicuous object, as well as the one in which 
Arnold fixed his head quarters. 



134 WEST POINT. 

There are here at present a number of dwelHng-houses, 
and a miUtary academy, built on the plain which forms 
the bank, of the river, 188 feet in height, to which a road 
ascends on the north side of the point. In the back 
ground, and elevated on a mass of rocks 598 feet in 
height, is the site of Fort Putnam. Silence and decay 
now mark the spot of this once formidable fortress. Its 
mouldering ruins, however, convey a pretty correctidea 
of the impregnable barrier its ramparts once presented 
to the enemies of freedom. 

The Military Academy here established by con- 
gress, was first organized under the direction of the late 
Gen. Williams, in 1802. Of the number of applicants 
for admission to this institution, a preference is usually 
given, first, to the sons of officers of the revolution ; 
and secondly, to the sons of deceased officers of the late 
war. None are admitted under the age of 14 years, 
nor above the age of 22. The number of cadets is lim- 
ited to 250, each of whom costs the government $336 
annually ; and the whole establishment is maintained 
at an annual expense of S? 11 5,000. In addition to the 
various sciences which arc taught here, the cadets are 
instructed in all the practical minutiae of tactics ; com- 
prehending the lowest duties of the private soldier, as 
well as the highest duties of the officer. They are also 
required to encamp for 6 or 8 weeks in a year ; during 
which time they are instructed in the manner of pitching 
and striking tents, in the various infantry evolutions, 
and in all the details of the camp. 

Several of the buildings at West Point aie elegant, 
and among the number may be ranked a spacious and 



WEST POINT. 135 

costly hotel. It has been erected in a style nnd on a 
scale which render it a great ornament to the grounds. 
It is substantially built, and the lower story is surround- 
ed on its sides with extensive piazzas, forming a de- 
lightful promenade. Its rear is upon the Hudson, and 
presents a delightful view up the river through the 
Highlands. The front faces the parade ground and 
the ground used for the encampment. 

In the morning, the cadets drill as artillery ; in the 
afternoon as infantry. But the principal attraction to 
the visitor is the morning and evening parade, in which 
the whole battalion, with the exception of the guard, is 
drawn out and carried through the manual, by the offi- 
cer commanding. 

Near the north eastern extremity of tlie grounds, at 
the projecting point forming the abrupt bend of the 
river, stands a monument of white marble, consisting 
of a base and short column, on the former of which is 
simply inscribed on one side, " Kosciusko," it having 
been erected to the memory of that distinguished patriot 
who resided here. Another monument stands on the 
north west corner of the grounds near the road from the 
landing to the hotel, upon a small hillock. It is a plain 
obelisk, about 20 feet high, erected by the late Gen. 
Brown, to the memory of Col. E. D. Wood, a pupil of 
the institution, who fell leading a charge at the sortie 
from Fort Erie, on the 17th September, 1814. 

On the bank of the Hudson at the south-eastern ex- 
tremity of the parade ground, and several yards beneath, 
is a spot called Kosciusko's garden, or Kosciusko's 
retreat. It is the place to which the Polish patriot was 
accustomed to retire to study, and which was cultivated 



136 NEWBURCH. 

by his own hands. Though now neglected, the marks 
of cuhivation are perceptible in the regularity of the 
walks and the arrangement of the trees. A more de- 
lightful spot for recreation or repose cannot be imagin- 
ed, nor one more suitable as a retreat from the cares of 
the great world, or a sanctuary for unfortunate patriot- 
ism or persecuted virtue. 

PoLLOPEL Island is situated at the northern entrance 
of the Highlands, 6 miles above West Point. It consists 
of amass of rock, and rises near the centre of the river 
between Breakneck Hill on the east and Butter Hill on 
the west. The altitude of the latter is 1529 feet — the 
former is 1187 feet in height, and contains the rock 
called the Upper Anthony's Nose. 

New- Windsor. Passing the Highlands, the pros- 
pect changes into a very agreeable contrast. The bay 
of Newburgh with the village of the same name, and 
New- Windsor, and on the opposite shore the village of 
Fishkill, with its numerous adjacent manufactories and 
country seats, together with a view of the Hudson for 
many miles above, form a prospect which cannot fail 
to impart much interest. The village of New- Windsor 
stands on the margin of the river, 7 miles from West 
Point. It is calculated for a pleasant place of residence, 
but in business it must yield to the rival village of 

Newburgh. This is an incorporated village, situa- 
ted on the declivity of a hill on the west side of the 
Hudson, 10 miles north from West Point, and 84 south 
from Albany. It contains a population of about 7800 



NEWBURGH. 137 

inhabitants. From its situation it commands an exten- 
sive intercourse and trade with the country on the 
west, and by means of the Hudson river, with New- 
York. 

The principal pubhc houses in the village are the 
United States Hotel at the steam boat wharf; Orange 
County House, Golden street; Nicholson's Hotel, and 
Tuttle's Hotel. 

The Hudson and Delaware rail road, winch is to ex- 
tend from this village to a junction with the New- York 
and Erie rail road at the Delav/are river, has been com- 
menced. 

Newburgh was for some time the head quarters of 
the American array during the revolutionary war ; and 
the" stone house" in which Gen. Washington quartered 
is still standing. On the opposite side of the river from 
Newburgh is Beacon Hill, one of the highest summits 
of the Fishkill mountains, where parties of pleasure 
fiTquently resort in the summer season, to witness an 
extent of prospect including a part of the territories of 
five different states. This hill is 1471 feet in height. 
Haifa mile south is the New Beacon, or Grand Sachem, 
1GS5 feet above the level of the Hudson. They are 
called Beacon Hills, from the circum.stance that bea- 
cons were erected on then- summits during the revolu- 
tionary war. The continuation of this chain of moun- 
tains is lost in the Appalachian Range on the north east, 
and extends south as far as the eye can reach. Dimin- 
ished in distance, is seen West Point, environed by 
mountains, apparently reposing on the surface of the 
Hudson, and bathing their rocky summits in the 
clouds. 



138 POUGHKEEPSIE. 

Milton is a small hamlet, situated on the west side 
of the Hudson river, in the town of Marlborough, 11 
miles from Psewburgh. This place is called the half- 
%%^ay place between New- York and Albany, being 72i 
miles distant from each. Two and a half miles south 
of Milton, on the east side of the Hudson, is the mansion 
house of the late Gov. George Clinton. 

PouGHKEEPsiE, 15 miles north of Newburgh, is 
beautifully situated on elevated ground, and is seen for 
a considerable distance on the river both above and be- 
low the town. It contains a population of between 8 
and 9000, and is one of the most flourishing villages in 
the state. It contains a number of beautiful private 
residences, and several public buildings highly creditable 
to the taste of the inhabitants. The streets, which are 
numerous, are well paved, and the side walks ample 
and neat. The prospect from Mansion Square and the 
neighboring hill, whose brow is to be crowned with a 
temple of learning, affords a landscape of great extent 
and beauty. On the south it overlooks the village and 
the beautiful district of country extending to the Fish- 
kill range of mountains and the Highlands. On the 
west and north are seen in the distance the Shawan- 
guuk and Cattskill mountains, the Hudson river inter- 
vening ; while on the east the prospect is bounded 
only by the mountainous regions of western Connecti- 
cut and Massachusetts. 

Among the manufacturing establishments in the vi- 
cinity, of which there are many, is one for the manufac- 
ture of silk, the capital of the company being $200,000. 



CATSKILL. 139 

Real estate has nearly trebled in value within a short 
time — streets and buildings have been greatly extend- 
ed — and the prospect of a rapidly increasing and very 
extensive growth is highly flattering. 

About 5 miles north of Poughkeepsie is 

Hyde Park Landing, on the east side of the Hud- 
son river, near which are a number of country seats. 
From thence 4 miles up the river is a landing place, 
leading to Staatsburg, one mile distant, in the town of 
Hyde Park. From thence to Rhinebeck Landing is 5 
miles,* — thence to Redhook Lower Landing is 7 miles 
• — thence to Redhook Upper Landing, 3] miles — thence 
2 miles to the seat of the late Chancellor Livingston — 
thence 7 miles to the manor house of the late Lord 
Livingston — thence one mile to Oakhill — thence one 
mile to 

Catskill. This village takes its name from a large 
creek which flows through it, and empties into the 
Hudson at that place. It is situated on the west bank 
of the river, 32 miles from Albany, and contains about 



* Near this place, on the west side of the river, is 
Kingston Landing, and the commencement of the 
Delaware and Hudson canal. It extends in a south- 
■westwardly direction to the forks of the Dyberry on the 
Lackawaxen river, Pennsylvania, distant 103 miles, 
lockage 1438 feet. It was originally intended by the 
company to have made this canal to Keen's pond, 13 
miles from its present termination, but it has been 
abandoned and a rail road substituted, which extends 3 
miles west of Keen's pond to the anthracite coal mines 
of Pennsylvania. 



140 PINE ORCHARD. 

350 dwellings, and a population of about 5000 inhabi- 
tants. On Catskill creek are a number of mills and 
manufactories, and the general appearance of the vil- 
lage is highly flattering, as it respects its future growth 
and prosperity. The Catskill and Canajoharie rail road, 
under contract, commences at this place, and is to ex- 
tend to Canajoharie, on the Mohawk river, distant 
about 70 miles. 

Catskill is in the immediate neighborhood of the 
Katsbergs or Catskill mountains, which are seen for 
many miles along the Hudson, and here assume a truly 
majestic aud sublime appearance. The highest eleva- 
tion of this range of mountains is ia the county of 
Greene, from 8 to 12 miles distant from the river, in- 
cluding ihe Round Top, 3S04 feet, and High Peul<, 3718 
feet in height. The village of Catskill, which was for- 
merly visited principally by men of business, has more 
recently become the resort of people of fashion and 
pleasure, who design a tour to the 

Pine Orchard, a place which, for several years past, 
has attracted the attention of all classes of men, and 
still continues to draw to it numbers of those who are 
fond of novelty, and especially of the sublime and ro- 
mantic scenery in which it abounds. Regular stages 
leave Catskill for the Pine Orchard twice a day. The 
fare is the moderate price of one dollar. The whole 
distance is 12 miles, computed as follows: From the 
village to Lawrence's tavern, 7 miles- -from thence to 
the foot of the mountain, 2 miles — from thence to Pine 
Orchard, 3 miles. This distance is passed, in going, in 
about 4 hours — in returning, in about 2 hours. The 



PTNE ORCHARD. 141 

country through which the road passes has nothing 
interesting in its appearance until it reaches the moun- 
tain, being generally uneven and barren, and diversified 
with but one or two comparatively small spots of cul- 
tivation, upon which the eye can rest with satisfaction. 
A short time is usually taken up at Lawrence's, for the 
purpose of refreshment, before encountering the rugged 
ascent of the mountains. This part of the road is gen- 
erally good, but circuitous, and often passes on the 
brink of some deep ravine, or at the foot of some 
frowning precipice, inspiring at times an unwelcome 
degree of terror. The rock upon which stands the hotel 
forms a circular platform, is of an uneven surface, and 
includes about six acres. It is elevated above the Hud- 
son upwards of 2200 feet.* The Hotel is 140 feet in 
length, 24 feet in width, and 4 stories high, and has 
piazzas in front the whole length, and a wing extending 
in the rear for lodging rooms. It is well furnished, and 
possesses every convenience and accommodation requi- 
site to the comfort and good cheer of its numerous 
guests. The prospect from Pine Orchard embraces a 
greater extent and more diversity of scenery than is to 



* Capt. Partridge, who visited the Catskill mountains 
in 1828, made the following barometrical observations: 

Altitude of the Mountain House, at the Pine Or- 
chard, ai)ove the surface of the Hudson river at Catskill 
village, 2212 feet. 

Do. of the same above the site of Lawrence's tavern, 
7 miles from Catskill, 1882 feet. 

Do. of the same above the turnpike gate at the foot 
of the mountain, 1574 feet. 

Do. of the same above Green's bridge, 947 feet. 



142 ATHENS. 

be found in any other part of the state, or perhaps of 
the United States. The vast variety of ticlds, farms, 
villages, towns and cities between the Green mountains 
of Vermont on the north, the Highlands on the south, 
and the Taiilikanick mountains on the east, together 
with the Hudson river, studded with islands and vessels, 
some of which may be seen at even the distance of 60 
miles, are apparent in a clear atmosphere to the naked 
eye ; and when the scene is gradually unfolded, at the 
opening of the day, it assumes rather the appearance of 
enchantment than a reality. It is not uncommon, at 
this place, to witness storms of snow and rain in their 
seasons, midway the mountain, while all is clear and 
serene on its summit. About two miles from the Hotel 
are the Kaaterskill Falls, which take their name 
from the stream on which they are situated. This 
stream takes its rise from two small lakes, half a mile 
in the rear of the Hotel ; and after a westerly course of 
a mile and a half, the waters fall perpendicularly 175 
feet, and after pausing a moment on a projection of the 
rock, plunge again down a precipice of 85 feet more, 
making the whole descent of the falls 260 feet. The 
road to the falls is extremely rough ; but this objection 
will hardly deter the traveller from a visit to a spot so 
novel and romantic. 

Athens, five miles above Catskill, is an incorporated 
village, and contains abuut 1500 inhabitants. Its situ- 
ation on a gentle slope of land rising gradually from 
the river, gives it a very favorable appearance. The 
vicinity of Athens to Hudson, immediately opposite, 
seems to forbid that importance in point of trade which 



HUDSON — COXSACKIE. 143 

lis location might otherwise warrant. Athens furnishes 
a number of beautiful sites on the bank of the river • 
some of which are already occupied by the elegant 
mansions of private gentlemen. 

The City of Hudson stands on the east side of the 
river, 27 miles south from Albany. The plain on which 
Hudson is situated rises abruptly from the river, by 
banks from 50 to 60 feet in height ; and terminates on 
the east, at the foot of high lands, which overlook the 
city at an elevation of some hundred feet, and furnish 
a prospect of the Hudson river and scenery for many 
miles in extent. The city contains about 5500 inhabi- 
tants, and is daily increasing in wealth, population and 
commerce. Claverack creek on the east, and Kinder- 
hook creek on the north, afford every facility for mills 
and manufactories, in which Hudson abounds. On the 
opposite side of the Hudson appear a number of country 
seats, with the farm houses and cultivation in the neigh- 
borhood of Athens and Catskill, bounded by the lofty 
Katsberghs, rising in the back ground and mingling 
their rugged summits with the clouds. 

The Hudson and Berkshire rail road, extending 
from Hudson to the Massachusetts state line, will be 
completed the present season (1837.) It is designed 
ultimately to connect with a line through Massachu- 
setts to Worcester, from whence there is already a rail 
road to Boston, noticed in the " Route from Albany to 
Boston," post. 

CoxsACKiE Landing, where arc several houses and 
stores, is eight miles north of Hudson, From thence 
m2 



144 ALBANY, 

to Kmderhook landing is 2 miles. Here are about 50 
dwellings and a post office. The village of Kinder- 
hook is situated 5 miles east. Four miles further north 
is the village of New-Baltimore ; thence to Coeymans 
2 miles — thence to Schodack village 2 miles — thence to 
Castleton landing 2 miles — thence to Albany 8 miles. 

ALBANY 

Is the capital of the state of New- York, and in point 
of wealth, population, trade and resources, is the sec- 
ond city in the state, and the sixth or seventh in the 
Union. It is situated on the west side of the Hudson 
river, and near the head of tide water. It was settled 
in 1612; and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the 
oldest settlement in the U. S. In 1614, a small fort 
and trading house were built by the Dutch on an isl- 
and half a mile below the site of the present city ; and 
soon afterwards fort Orange, where the city now stands. 
The place was first called Aurania ; then Beverwyck, 
till 1625 ; then Fort Orange till 1647, and Williamstadt 
till 1664. For a long time after its foundation, it was 
enclosed with palisadoes or pickets, as a defence against 
the Indians, who were then numerous and powerful in 
its vicinity. Its charter was granted in the year 16S6, 
and embraced an area of 7160 acres. A great propor- 
tion of its soil is sandy and unproductive, and under no 
system of useful cultivation. 

Though the first appearance of this city is not pre- 
possessing to a stranger, still the taste which has been 
displayed in the construction of its public and private 
buildings — the constant din of conmiercial business 
which assails the ear of the traveller — the termination 



ALBANY. 145 

i»f the Erie canal and the Mohawk and Hudson rail 
road at this place, and many other attendant circum- 
stances, render Albany a)i important and interesting 
spot. 

The town is divided into five wards, and contains 
many superb and elegant buildings. The principal 
streets arc Market, Pearl, and State streets. The two 
former run parallel with the river, and the latter is a 
spacious one, extending from the Capitol to the Hud- 
son, nearly east and west. Besides these, there are 
many other streets, less considerable in extent, but pop- 
ulous and crowded with shops and stores. 

The Capitol, which contains the legislative halls, 
the supreme and chancery court rooms of the state, the 
state library, and other apartments for public business, 
stands at the head of State street, on an elevation of 
130 feet above the level of the river. It is a substan- 
tial stone edifice, erected at an expense of $120,000. It 
is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 feet high, 
consisting of two stories, and a basement of 10 feet. 
The east front is adorned with a portico of the Ionic 
order, having 4 magnificent columns, 33 feet in height. 
In the senate and assembly chambers and in the rooms 
used by the governor and for holding the court of chan- 
cery are full length portraits of Washington, of the va- 
rious executives who have administered the government 
of the state, of the chancellors who have presided in the 
court of chancery, and of Abraham Van Vechten, Esq. 
an eminent counsellor at law residing in Albany. 
There is also in the senate chamber a good bust of 
Doct. Franklin. 



146 ALBANT. 

The Public Square, on the S. W. of which stands 
the Capitol, arranged in the style of a park, is sur- 
rounded by a costly iron railing, having several delight* 
fill walks and avenues. 

North of the Capitol stands the AcADEJiT,one of the 
most elegantly constructed buildings in the city. It 
cost about $92,000 exclusive of the lot on which it is 
erected, and some donations. It is built of free stone, 
3 stories high, and 90 feet in front. It has 5 teach- 
ers and about HO students, and is one of the most 
flourishing institutions in the state. 

The City Hall, fronting the foot of Washington 
street, and near the capitol square, is a costly edifice of 
white marble, displaying much taste in its structure, 
and is ornamental to the part of the city in which it 
stands. The dome is gilded, and is a conspicuous ob- 
ject at some distance from the city. 

The new State Hall, located north of the City 
Hall, is constructing of white marble, and, when finish- 
ed, will not be surpassed by any edifice in the city. It 
■will contain the offices of the secretary of state, comp- 
troller, treasurer, surveyor general, attorney general, 
register in chancery, and clerk of the supreme court. 

The Female Academy, in North Pearl street, a 
beautiful and classical edifice, commanding a view of 
the eastern part of the city and opposite shore of the 
Hudson, under its popular principal, Mr. Cruttenden, 
receives an extensive patronage. 

The Baptist church on the same side of the street, 
and but a few doors from the Academy, is also a very 
elegant structure. The pediments of both buildings 
projecting at suitable distances from each other, give a 



ALBANY. 147 

fine appearance to the street, by relievinfj the monoto- 
ny of the long Hne of dwelhng houses hi the neighbor- 
hood, without materially obstructing the view of the 
whole. 

Tliere are also 19 other houses of pubUc worship, 
several of which exhibit much taste in their architec- 
ture, six banks, and one of the best museums in the 
country. 

The Merchant's Exchange, in a state of forward- 
ness, is located on the corner of State and North Mark- 
et streets. When completed, it will be highly orna- 
mental to that part of the city. 

Hotels. — The principal hotels in Albany, are the 
Eagle Tavern, South Market street; American Hotel, 
State street ; Congress Hall, Capitol Square ; Man- 
sion House, City Hotel, and Temperance House, jNorth 
Market street. These are all first rate estabUshments, 
elegantly furnished and well kept. 

On a less expensive scale, are the Fort Orange Ho- 
tel, Columbian Hotel, Exchange Coffee House, and 
Montgomery Hall, South Market street ; and the 
Franklin House and Western Hotel, State street. 

During the sessions of the New-York Legislature, 
Albany is crowded with strangers, and contains much 
of the legal talent and learning of the state. The city 
is eligibly situated for trade, being a great thorough- 
fare for the northern and western sections of the coun- 
try. 

The Albany Basin, where the waters of the Erie 
canal unite with the Hudson, consists of a part of the 
river uicluded between the shore and an artificial pier 
erected 80 feet in width and 4300 feet in length. The 



14S EXCURSION TO THE SPRINGS. 

pier contains about S acres, and is connected with ths 
city by draw bridges. It is a grand and stupendous 
work, on which spacious and extensive stores have 
been erected, and where an immense quantity of lum- 
ber and other articles of trade are deposited. Its ori- 
ginal cost was 5130,000, and the different lots were 
sold at public auction at a considerable advance. The 
basin covers a surface of 32 acres. 

EXCURSION TO THE SPRINGS. 

There are two distinct routes — one by the way of 
Schenectady, the other by the v.ay of Troy. We give 
a sketch of each. 

Route by the loay of Schenectady. 
36| miles. 
The intermediate distances are as follow : 

Miles. Miles. 

From Albany to Bu- Ballston La];e, 10 

el's Farm, 3 Ballston Spa, 5 

Schenectady, 12 Saratoga Springs, . .. G^ 

The route is by the way of the Mohawk and Hudson 
and the Saratoga and Schenectady rail roads, the line 
being continuous to Saratoga Springs, and a passage is 
effected in about 3^ hours. The carriages of the Mo- 
hawk and Hudson company start several times a day 
from the depot on the north side of State Street, a lit- 
tle below the Capitol Square in Albany, and the trains 
on the Saratoga and Schenectady road are made to cor- 
respond therewith. 

The Mohawk and Hudson Rail Road was com- 
menced in the summer of 1830, and a single track so 



MOHA^VK AND HUDSON RAIL ROAD. 149 

far completed that passengers were conveyed over 12 
miles thereof in one year thereafter. Since then a sec- 
ond track has been made, and a branch constmcted 
from State street in Albany, which unites with the main 
road about 2h miles from the city. The main line, 
which commences on the Hudson river about a mile 
south of State street, and on which there is an inclined 
plane, is used exclusively for freight, until uniting 
with the branch ; from whence it proceeds in a per- 
fectly straight line (with the exception of a small curve, 
which, with most people, passes unnoticed,) for 12 
miles, crossing the heavy embankment called the BucI 
viaduct, and ascending a plane of about three miles, of 
one foot in 225. Afterwards ascending by two or three 
other planes of different grades, and crossing several 
water-ways upon embankments, it proceeds to the 
Schenectady summit. The ascent to this summit from 
the level of the Hudson is 335 feet. At this point, to 
which we have in imagination conducted our readers, 
a beautiful view is obtained of the Erie canal, the Mo- 
hawk river, and the city of Schenectady. A double sta- 
tionary engine is placed here, which is used in letting 
carriages down a declivity of 115 feet, half a mile in ex- 
tent. From thence the road extends to the city, unit- 
ing with the Saratoga and with the Utica rail roads, the 
latter of which is noticed in the route to Buffalo, post. 
The soil over which the Mohawk road passes is gene- 
rally sandy, and there arc several heavy excavations 
and embankments. The rails, which are wood, plated 
with iron, generally rest on stone blocks, which give 
to the road a very firm and solid basis. Its entire cost 
was about $1,000,000. 



150 SCHENECTADY. 

The Farm of Jesse Buel, Esq. is crossed by the 
rail road, about three miles from Albany. It consists 
of 80 acres, has been wholly reclaimed from commons 
since 1818, and is now under profitable cultivation. 
His kitchen and flower gardens, abounding in the fin- 
est native and foreign fruits, ornamental trees, shrubs 
and flowers, will be visited with interest. Upon the 
same farm is the 

Albany Nursery, which is under the management 
of Messrs. Buel & Wilson. It already covers 12 or 14 
acres, and is extended annually, embracing not only the 
most choice American fruits and ornamental plants, but 
also the finer varieties of France, Germany, England, 
&c. many of which have been received from the Lon- 
don Horticultural Society, of which Mr. B. is' a corres- 
ponding member. Attached to ihis establishment is a 
green house, containing an extensive collection of beau- 
tiful exotics and rare Asiatic plants. There are few es- 
tablishment of the kind, indeed, in the country, pos- 
sessing more interest, or entitling their proprietors to 
greater commendation. 

SCHENECTADY, 

Fifteen miles from Albany, and 21^ from Saratoga 
Springs, is situated on the Mohawk, a broad and beau- 
tiful river, which forms its northern boundary. It was 
burnt by the Indians in 1690, and suffered a considera- 
ble conflagration in 1819, since which event the antique 
appearance of the city has been much improved by the 
introduction of modern archcitecture. The principal 
Hotel is kept by Mr. Davis, in the south-east part of 
the city, adjoining the Utica rail road. The main build- 



SCHENECTADY. 151 

ing contains an attic story, from whicli a view may be 
had of the city and its environs, of the Mohawk and of 
the canal for some distance, and of the rich and varie- 
gated landscape which spreads on the south and west 
of the city. The Hotel can accommodate about 130 
guests. 

Union College is built on an eminence, which over- 
looks the city and the Mokawk for a number of miles. 
The college consists at present of two brick edifices, 
but the plan includes a chapel and other buildings here- 
after to be erected, in the rear, and between those al- 
ready constructed. At this institution about 100 stu- 
dents are annually graduated. The expense per annum 
is about $150. In numbers and respectability Union 
College may be ranked among the most favored sem- 
inaries in our country. 

The city contains two banks, two printing offices, six 
churches, a spacious and handsome ciiy hall, and a 
population of about GOOO inhabitants. 

The Saratoga and Schenectady Rail Road pass- 
ing through the city, crosses the Mohawk river on a 
substantial bridge between 8 and 900 feet long, and ex- 
tends in a northerly direction over a heavy embank- 
ment for three-fourths of a mile to a deep cut, where 
the Uticaroad diverges to the west, and the Saratoga 
to the north-east. This course is pursued until it en- 
ters the valley of the Eelplace creek, when it curves 
and maintains a northerly course, passing along the 
elegant and verdant banks of the Ballston Lake, and 
enters the eastern part of the village of Ballston Spa, 
on a curvature of considerable extent. From this point 
the road passes in a northerly direction over the main 

N 



152 BALLSTON LAKE. 

street, on a bridge about 15 feet high, and by means of 
a heavy embankment, reaches the high grounds north 
of the village. From thence a north-easterly course is 
taken across the Ivayaderosseras creek, over a sub- 
stantial bridge, and continues in a straight Une, with 
the exception of two slight curves, to Saratoga Springs. 
The road is about twenty-one and a half miles long, 
and is over a remarkably level country, not requiring 
the use of stationary power, and not having on any part 
an inclination of more than 16 feet per mile. With the 
exception of about three miles of stone blocks, near 
Saratoga Springs, the road is made of wooden materi- 
als, save the iron plates. Its cost, including fixtures, 
carriages and engines, was $300,000. 

Ballston Lake, or Long Lake, as it is sometimes 
called, is 10 miles from Schenectady. A farm house 
between the lake and road, owned by Mr. Elisha Cur- 
tis, was formerly the residence of a Mr. M'Donald, the 
guide of Sir William Johnson, on his first visit to the 
mineral springs at Saratoga, in 1767. Mr. M'D. was a 
native of Ireland, and en his first arrival in America, 
settled with his brother, in 1763, on this spot, where he 
continued to reside until his decease, in 1823. Sir 
William passed some days at this house at the time of 
the visit above mentioned. The lake is a beautiful 
sheet of water 5 miles long and 1 broad. The scenery 
around affords a pleasing landscape of cultivation and 
wood lands, no less inviting to the sportsman than the 
soft bosom of the lake and its finny inhabitants to the 
amateurs of the rod. 



BALLSTON SPA. 133 

BALLSTON SPA, 

Is 5 miles farther. The village Hes in the town of 
Milton, in the county of Saratoga; and is situated in a 
low valley, through the centre of which flows a branch 
of the Kayaderosseras, with whose waters it mingles 
at the east end of the village. The natural boundaries 
of Ballston Spa are well defined by steep and lofty hills 
of sand on the north and west, and by a ridge of land 
which gradually slopes inward, and encircles the vil- 
lage on the south and east. The broad and ample 
Kayaderosseras flows on the northeast boundary of the 
village, and furnishes a favorite resort for the sports- 
man on the bosom of its waters, or for the loiterer along 
its verdant banks. The village is incorporated, and 
under the direction of a board of trustees, who are cho- 
sen annually. It contains 150 houses, and about 1200 
inhabitants. Besides the court house for the county, 
located here, there are 3 churches, 2 printing oflicesand 
a book-store, with which a reading room is connected, 
for the accommodation of visitants. 

Ballston Spa principally derives its celebrity from 
the mineral springs which flow here and at Saratoga 
in equal abundance. The spring first discovered in the 
vicinity stands on the flat in the west part of the village. 
It formerly flowed out of a common barrel, sunk around 
it, without any other protection from the invasion of 
cattle, who often slacked their thirst in its fountain. 
Afterwards the liberality of the citizens was displayed 
in a marble curb and flagging, and a handsome iron 
railing. The curb and flagging were finally removed, 
leaving the railing, which still serves the purposes of 



154 BALLSTON SPA. 

ornament and protection. The spring flows now, prob- 
ably, from the place where it originally issued, some 
feet below the surrounding surface, which has been 
elevated by additions of earth, for the purpose of im- 
proving the rocid in which it stands. 

Near this spring, in boring eight or nine years since, 
a mineral fountain called the New Washington 
Spring, was discovered at a considerable depth beneath 
the surface. Its qualities are somewhat similar to those 
of the spring last mentioned. 

The Sans Souci Spuing is situated in the rear of the 
Sans Souci, and is considered the most prominent foun- 
tain in the village. According to an analysis of Doct. 
Steel, one gallon of the water contained the following 
ingredients: chloride of sodium, 143f grs. ; bicarbonate 
of soda 12§ grs. ; bicarbonate of magnesia, 39 grs. ; 
carbonate of lime, nearly 6 grs. ; hydriodate of soda, 1^ 
grs. ; silex, 1 gr. Near this fountain a large and com- 
modious bathing house has been erected ; to which, 
not only the waters of this, but of a number of other 
adjacent springs, are tributary, for the purpose of bath- 
ing. Between the springs already mentioned, there was 
discovered in the summer of 1817, a mineral spring, 
called the Washington Fountain. This latter spring 
rose on the margin of the creek in front of the factory 
building ; it flowed through a curb 28 feet in length 
sunk to the depth of 23 feet, and was liberated at the 
top in the form of a beautiful jet d''eau ; but the spring 
disappeared in 1821, Numerous attempts have since 
been made to recover it, but they have proved fruitless. 
Low's Spring is near the Sans Souci, and is very 
similar in its qualities and properties. 



I 
I 



BALLSTON SPA.' 155 

The Park Spring is in the rear of the Village Hotel, 
and was obtained by boring to a depth of 270 feet. A 
copious stream flows therefrom, tastefully displayed in 
a small basin, secured at the top of the tube which con- 
ducts the water to the surface. The water, however, 
affords much less of the saline substances than either 
of the other springs. 

The principal ingredients of these waters consist of 
muriate of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, 
carbonate of magnesia, and carbonate of iron ; all of 
which, in a greater or less degree, enter into the com- 
position of the waters, both here and at Saratoga. 

The principal boarding houses are the Sans Souci and 
tlie Village Hotel. 

The Sans Souci, with its yards and out-houses, occu- 
pies an area of some acres in the east part of the village. 
The plan of the building, with the extensive improve- 
ments around it, do much credit to the taste and libe- 
rality of its proprietors. The establishment is kept by 
Mr. Andrew Watrous, under whose management the 
most entire satisfaction is given to its annual visitants. 
The edifice is constructed of wood, three stories high, 
160 feet in length, with two wings extending back 153 
feet, and is calculated for the accommodation of 130 
boarders. It is surrounded by a beautiful yard, orna- 
mented with a variety of trees and shrubbery, which, 
with its extensive piazzas and spacious halls, render it a 
delightful retreat during the oppressive heat of summer. 
The Village Hotel is in a convenient situation, a 
few rods west of the Sans Souci. It is kept by the pro- 
prietor, Mr. Clark, and is in every respect an agreeable 
and pleasant boarding place. 
N 2 



156 FROM ALBANY, VIA TROY, TO SARATOGA. 

Mails arrive at and depart from Ballston Spa, every- 
day in the week. Besides a post office at the village, 
there is one in the town of Ballston, about three miles 
distant, to w^hich letters are frequently missent, owing 
to the neglect of correspondents in making the proper 
direction. 

The reading room and library may be resorted to at 
all times, and for a moderate compensation. Papers 
are there furnished from all parts of the Union. 

Route from Alhamj by the way of Troy to Saratoga 
Springs — 36| miles. 

The intermediate distances are as follow : 



Miles. 

Mechanicsville, 8 

Ballston Spa, 12 

Saratoga Springs, ... 6^ 



By stage or steam boat. 
Miles. 
From Albany to Troy,.. 6 

By rail road. 
Waterford, 4 

A stage or steam boat can be taken hourlyjat Albany 
for Troy. By the former mode of conveyance, the first 
object which usually attracts the attention of the tourist 
is the mansion of Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer, the 
patroon of the manor of Rensselaerwick,* which stands 
at the northern extremity of Albany, and which is one 
of the most elegant situations in the United States. 
The munificence and liberality of its opulent and dis- 
tinguished proprietor are proverbial. There are few 
charitable or scientific institutions in the state of which 
he is not a benefactor ; and he has probably contributed 



* This manor comprises 'a great portion of the coun- 
ties of Albany and Rensselaer — the city and several 
patents excepted. 



U. S. ARSENAL. 



157 



more than any other citizen towards the fostering of 
agricultural and literary improvements. 
\he McAdamized Uoad between Albany and Wa- 
tervUet, opposite Troy, commences at this place. It 
runs parallel with the Erie canal, near its western bank, 
is between 5 and 6 miles long, of a width sufficient for 
three carriages to run abreast, and is one of the most 
elegant roads on the continent. The vales and hills 
through which it passes have been sufficiently elevated 
or depressed to aftbrd either a level or a very moderate 
inclination ; so that the speed of a carriage over the 
whole is uninterrupted. It is the property of an incor- 
porated company, who have expended between $90,000 
and $100,000 in its construction. 

Five miles from Albany is the U. S. Arsenal, con- 
sisting of handsome brick and stone buildings, beau- 
tifully located on the western bank of the Hudson. 
There are here a large quantity of arms and munitions 
ofwar, with workshops for repairing them, manufac- 
turing'locks, &c. The muskets, bayonets, swords and 
pistofs are arranged with great taste and kept in fine 
order. Among the cannon in the yard are four 12 
pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, taken at Sarato- 
ga ; four 12's and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; 
two long antique pieces and one eight inch mortar, 
taken at Stoney Point ; two old French 4 pounders 
and 14 guns, sent by Louis XVI. to the continental 
congress in the revolution— all of brass, and most of 
them hishly ornamented, with each an individual name 
and thelnscription " ultima ratio regium." There are 
also three or four howitzers cast in New- York and 
Philadelphia in the revolution, some of the oldest spe- 



15S 



UATERVLIET TROT. 



cimens of this manufacture in the country, and bearrng 
the initials U. C. for United Colonies. 

Haifa mile further is the village of Watervliet, or 
rather from the Arsenal to and including West Troy or 
Port Schuyler, is a continuous village, which has rap- 
idly increased within a short period. It aheady con- 
tains a bank and several manufacturing establishments, 
and bids fair to become an important town. The river 
is here crossed either by a ferry boat, or on two very 
permanent and beautiful bridges, one of which is used 
by the Saratoga and Rensselaer rail road, to 

TROY. 

The city is bounded on the east by a range of hills 
rising abruptly from the alluvial plane on which the 
city is situated, extending to the Hudson river. In 
point of location and beautiful natural scenery, Troy is 
exceeded by few, if any, of the towns and villages on 
the Hudson. The streets, running north and south, 
converge together at the north end of the city, and are 
crossed at right angles by those running east and west. 
The buildings are principally built of brick, and are 
shaded by rows of trees on each side of the streets, 
which are preserved remarkably clean b}- additions of 
slate and gravel instead of pavements. The city con- 
tains four banks, twelve churches, a court house, jail 
and market. The Episcopal Church is a superb speci- 
men of Gothic architecture, probably not exceeded in 
the United States, Tt has a venerable and imposing 
appearance, and needs nothing but a <piantity of moss 
and ivy to make it the picture of one of those ancient 
abbeys so often to be met with in the writings of Sir 



TIIOY. 



159 



"Walter Scott. The ^kw Presbyterian Church also 
displays great taste and liberality in its construction and 
is highly ornamental to that part of the city in which 
it stands. 

The Court HousK, built of Sing Sing marble, is a 
splendid ediiice after the Grecian model, perfectly chaste 
and classic in all its parts. 

The Female Seminary, incorporated by an act of the 
legislature, is a large three stoiy brick building erect- 
ed by the city corporation. The institution is under 
the government of a female principal, (Mrs. Willard,) 
assisted by two vice principals and twenty-two teach- 
ers, whose exertions have given it a deserved celebrity 
over similar institutions in the state. The number of 
pupils generally varies from 250 to 280 ; and of those 
who are thus educated, not less than thirty teachers are 
annually furnished for various parts of the union. 

PUBLIC HOUSES. 

The Troy House, near the termination of the rail road 
in River street, is a spacious and elegant establishment, 
with a court yard in the centre, and kept in a style cor- 
responding with that of the most favored estabhsh- 
ments in the union. 

The Mansion House, a httle farther north, is on a 
scale equally chaste and spacious, in front of which is 
a handsome square and a beautiful marble fountain or 
jet (Veau, which diffuses a delightful coolness through 
the atmosphere, and attracts the observation of every 
stranger. 

The Washington Hall, National Hotel and 
American Hotel also very neat establishments, and 
well patronized. 



IGO TROT. 

The city is abundnntly supplied with excellent water 
from the ncigliboiing hills, on the Philadelphia plan,, 
except, that in that city it is raiocd by aillficial means, 
and in this by its natural head, being- 75 leet above the 
level of the city. On the corner of each street is a hy- 
drant, and a hose placed on this sends the water up 
higher and with much greater force th:tn a fire engine. 
From this source is obtained the supply for several ar- 
tificial fountains on the public squares and in several 
private gardens. 

Troy is proverbial for its enterprise. This, with its 
local advantages, have given it a growth and prosperi- 
ty equalled by few and excelled by none of the cities at 
the north. Its population in 1830 was 11,605 ; in 1835, 
16,959 ; and at the present period ( 1837) cannot belesa 
than 18,500. 

North east of the plain upon which Troy is built, and 
about a quarter of a mile from the river, Mount Ida ris- 
es abruptly to the height of three or four hundred feet ; 
from whose summit there is a very extensive prospect 
of the Hudson river and the adjacent country, embrac- 
ing Waterford, Lansingburgh, the locks at the junc- 
tion of the Erie andChamplain canals, nearly the whole 
of Troy, and a part of Albany. 

About a mile above the city, a dam has been thrown 
across the river, and a lock constructed, affording a 
sloop navigation to the village of Waterford. 

One mile and a half from Troy is the Rensselaer 
school, which was established by and is under the pat- 
ronage of Gen. Stephen 'S'an Rensselaer. It is a valu-* 
able and flourishing institution. 



RENSSELAER AND SARATOGA RAIL ROAD. IGl 

The Rensselaer and Saratoga Rail Road was 
commenced in 1834, and completed in 1835. It commen- 
ces in River street, near the Troy House, and passes 
up that street to the northern part of the city, where it 
crosses the main channel of the Hudson river on a su- 
perb covered bridge, 1512 feet long, to Green Island. 
From thence it proceeds in a northerly direction to Van 
Schaick's Island, which is connected with Green Isl- 
and by a bridge 482 feet long over one of the sprouts of 
the Mohawk river. Another bridge over another sprout 
is then passed in reaching Hawver Island ; and from 
thence to the village of Waterford a third bridge is 
crossed in passing over the third or minor sprout. At 
Waterford the road passes through one of the principal 
streets, and from thence continues a northerly course 
through the rich valley of the Hudson, between the riv- 
er and Champlain canal, for a distance of 8 miles, to 
Mechanicsville ; when the road, after crossing the ca- 
nal, curves to the north-west, and pursuing the valley 
of" the creek," so called, passes the Round lake, about 
4 miles from Mechanicsville. The Mourning creek is 
reached in going 6 miles farther; from whence the road 
runs nearly parallel with and in sight of the Saratoga 
and Schenectady rail road for a distance of two miles, 
to the village of Ballston Spa ; where the two roads 
unite, and the carriages of both roads, by an arrange- 
ment between the two companies, are taken in the 
same train to Saratoga Sprmgs. 

From Green Island, a bridge extends across the west 
channel of the Hudson to West Troy, us noticed at 
page 158, 



162 LANSINGBUEGH — WATERFORD. 

Van Schaick's Island is formed by the sprouts of 
the Mohawk river joining with the Hudson river, 3 
miles north of Tro}'. This spot is noted for being the 
head quarters of the American army in 1777; from 
whence they marched, in September of the same year, 
to the decisive victory over Burgoyne, at Bcmus' 
Heights. 

Laxsinc-burgi!, on the eastern bank of the Hudson, 
directly opposite Van Schaick's Island, is principally 
built on a single street, running parallel with the river, 
A high hill rises abruptly behind the village, on which 
is seen the celebrated diamond rock, which at times 
emits a brilliant lustre from the reflected rays of the 
sun. The appearance of Lansingburgh by no means 
indicates a high state of prosperit}', though it contains 
several very handsome private residences. The village 
has a bank, three places of public worship, and an 
academy, its population is about 3000. 

Watf.rfopvD is one mile farther. This village is sit- 
uated at the junction of the Mohawk with the Hudson, 
and derives considerable importance from the naviga- 
tion of small vessels, which, by means of the lock and 
dam below, at most seasons of the year arrive and de- 
part to and from its docks. The village contains a pop- 
ulation of about IGOO inhabitants It enjoys many ad- 
vantages for trade, and its importance is much increas- 
ed by the northern canal, which here communicates with 
the Hudson river. 

A very permanent bridge crosses the Hudson at this 
place, connecting with a road leading to Lansingburgh. 



C0H0E3 FALLS — MECHANICSVILLE. 163 

At Waterford, if leisure will permit, the tourist will 
find it interesting to stop a day, for the purpose of visit- 
ing the CoHOEs Falls, on the Mohawk river, about a 
mile from the village. The perpendicular fall is about 
40, and including the descent above, about 70 feet. The 
lofty barrier of rocks which confine the course of the 
Mohawk— the distant roar of the cataract— the dashing 
of the waters as they descend in rapids beneath you — 
and the striking contrast of the torrent with the solitude 
of the scenery above, contribute to render the whole an 
imusual scene of sublimity and grandeur. It was in 
taking a view of these falls, several years since, that 
the poet Moore composed one of his best fugitive pie- 
ces. Indeed, the scenery and every thing connected 
with this interesting spot, are calculated to afford am- 
ple subjects for the poet and painter. 

Between this place 'and Schenectady (noticed in a 
subsequent page) the canal is carried twice across the 
Mohawk. The lower aqueduct, as it is called, two and 
a half miles from the falls, is 1 188 feet long, and rests 
on 26 stone piers and abutments — the other aqueduct, 
12 miles further, is 750 feet long, and rests on 16 piers. 

The Junction of the Erie and Northern canals, about 
a mile from the falls, should also be visited in the ex- 
cursion. Here, within the space of three quarters of a 
mile, are 17 locks ; and the number of boats constant- 
ly passing through, present a spectacle of activity and 
business of a highly novel character. The locks are of 
the best workmanship, and are jusly ranked among the 
most important works on the canal. 

Mechanicsville, 8 miles from Waterford, (pursu- 
ing the route of the rail road,) is a small manufacturing 
o 



164 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

village on tho bank of the Hudson. The hydraulic 
power, however, here derived, is from " the creek," the 
out-let of the Round lake, mentioned at page 161. 

Ballston Spa, 12 miles farther, has been already 
noticed at p. 153. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS 

Is situated six and a half miles north-easterly from 
Ballston Spa. The village is located on an elevated 
spot of ground, surrounded by a productive level coun- 
try, and enjoys, if not the advantage of prospect, at 
least a salubrious air and climate, contributing much to 
the health and benefit of its numerous visitants. The 
springs, so justly celebrated for their medicinal virtues, 
are situated on the margin of a vale, bordering the vil- 
lage on the east, and are the continuation of a chain of 
springs discovering themselves about 12 miles to the 
south, in the town of Ballston, and extending easterly 
in the form of a crescent, to the Cluaker village. In the 
immediate vicinity are 10 or 12 springs, the principal of 
which are the Congress, Putnam's Congress, the Ham- 
ilton, the Bligh Rock, the Columbian, the Flat Rock, 
the Washington and the Walton. About a mile east 
are found a cluster of mineral springs which go by the 
name of the Ten Springs. 

THE CONGRESS SPRING 

Is situated at tho south end of the village, and is 
owned by Doct. John Clarke ; to whose liberality the 
public are much indebted for the improvements that 
have been made in the grounds adjoining the fountain, 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 165 

for the purity in which its waters are preserved, and for 
an elegant colonnade erected over the spring, affording 
a convenient promenade to visitants. 

The spring was first discovered in the summer of 
1792, issuing from a crevice in the rock, a few feet from 
its present location. Here it flowed for a number of 
years, until an attempt to improve the surface around it 
produced an accidental obstruction of its waters, which 
afterwards made their appearance at the place whero 
they now flow. It is enclosed by a tube sunk into the 
earth to the distance of 12 or 14 feet, which secures it 
from the water of a stream, adjoining which it is sit- 
uated. 

From an analysis made by Doct. Steel, it appears 
that a gallon of the water contains the following sub- 
stances : chloride of sodium, 385 grs. ; hydriodate of 
soda, 3i grs. ; bicarbonate of soda, nearly 9 grs. ; bi- 
carbonate of magnesia, nearly 96 grs. ; carbonate of 
lime, a little more than 9S grs. ; carbonate of iron, up- 
wards of 5 grs. ; silex, l|grs. ; carbonic acid gas, 311 
cubic inches ; atmospheric air, 7 do. 

To this spring perhaps more than any other spot on 
the globe, are seen repairing, in the summer mornings 
before breakfast, persons of almost every grade and 
condition, from the most exalted to the most abject : 
the beautiful and the deformed— the rich and the poor— 
the devotee of pleasure and the invalid — all congre- 
gate here, for purposes as various as are their situa- 
tions in life. To one fond of witnessing the great di- 
versity in the human character, this place affords an 
ample field for observation. So well, indeed, has it been 
improved by the httle urchins who dip water at the 



166 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

fountain, that an imposing exterior is sure to procure 
for its possessor their services, while individuals less 
richly attired, or whose physiognomy indicates a less 
liberal disposition, are often compelled to wait till it is 
more convenient to attend to their wants. 

Most persons soon become fond of the water ; but 
the effect on those who taste it for the first time is fre- 
quently unpleasant. To such the other fountains are 
generally more palatable, having a less saline taste 
than the Congress. 

Putnam's Congress (deriving its name from the dis- 
coverer and owner) is a few rods north of the Hamilton 
Spring. A mineral fountain flowed from the same lo- 
cality for several years, without any particular notice, 
and the present spring has been obtained by sinking a 
tube to a considerable depth. It is a valuable fountain, 
and probably is second only to the old Congress in its 
medical qualities. 

The High Rock is situated on the west side of the 
valley, skirting the east side of the village, about half a 
mile north of the Congress. The rock enclosing this 
spring is in the shape of a cone, 9 feet in diameter at its 
base, and five feet in height. It seems to have been 
formed by a concretion of particles thrown up by the 
water, which formerly flowed over its summit through 
an apperture of about 12 inches diameter, regularly di- 
verging from the top of the cone to its base. This spring 
was visited in the year 1767 by Sir William Johnson, 
but was known long before by the Indians, who were 
first led to it either by accident or by the frequent 
haunts of beasts, attracted thither by the saline proper- 
ties of the water. A building was erected near the spot 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 167 

previous to the revolutionary war ; afterwards aban- 
doned, and agBin resumed ; since which the usefulness 
of the water has, from time to time, occasioned frequent 
settlements within its vicinity. 

The water now rises within 2 feet of the summit, and 
a common notion prevails that it has found a passage 
through a fissure of the rock, occasioned by the fall of 
a tree ; since which event it has ceased to flow over its 
brink. This opinion, however, may be doubted. It is 
probable that the decay of the rock, which commenced 
its formation on the natural surface of the earth, may 
have yielded to the constant motion of the water, and 
at length opened a passage between its decayed base 
and the loose earth on which it was formed. This idea 
is strengthened from the external appearance of the 
rock at its eastern base, which has already been pen- 
etrated by the implements of curiosity a number ot 
inches. 

Between the Pv.ed spring in the upper village, and tho 
Washington in the south part of the lower village, are 
situated most of the other mineral springs in which this 
place abounds. At four of the principal fountains, the 
Putnam's Congress, Hamilton, Monroe and Washing- 
ton, large and convenient bathing houses have been 
erected, which are constantly resorted to for pleasure 
as well as health, during the warm season. 

The mineral waters both at Ballston and Saratoga 
are supposed to be the product of the same great laba- 
ratory, and they all possess nearly the same properties, 
varying only as to the quantity of the different articles 
held in solution. They are denominated acidulous sa- 
line and acidulous chalybeate. Of the former are the 
o2 



168 SARATOGA SPRFNGS. 

Congress, Putnam's Congress, the Hamilton, High 
Rock and Walton at Saratoga ; and of the latter are 
the Columbian, Flat Rock and Washington, at Sarato- 
ga, and the Old Spring and Sans Souci, at Ballston. The 
waters contain muriate of soda,hydriodatc of soda, car- 
bonate of soda, carbonate of lime, carbonate of magne- 
sia, oxide of iron, and some of them a minute quanti- 
ty of silica and alumina. Large quantities of carbonic 
acid gas are also contained in the waters, giving to 
them a sparkling and lively appearance. The Con- 
gress, in particular, the moment it is dipped, contains 
nearly one half more than its bulk of gas— a quantity 
unprecedented in any natural waters elsewhere discov- 
ered. 

Doct. Steel, in his geological report of the county of 
Saratoga, published a few years since, remarks, that 
" the temperature of the water in all these wells is 
about the same, ranging from 48 to 52 deg-rees on Far- 
enheWs scale; and they suffer no sensible alteration 
from any variation in the temperature of the atmos- 
phere ; neither do the variations of the seasons appear 
to have much effect on the quantity of water produced. 

" The waters are remarkably limpid, and when first 
dipped sparkle with all the life of good champaign. 
The saline waters bear botthng very well, particularly 
the Congress, immense quantities of which are put up 
in this way, and transported to various parts of the 
world ; not, however, without a considerable loss of its 
gaseous property, which renders its taste much more 
insipid than when drank at the well. The chalybeate 
water is likewise put up in bottles for transportation, 
but a very trifling loss of its gas produces an immediate 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 169 

precipitation of its iron ; and hence this water, when it 
has been bottled for some time, frequently becomes 
turbid, and finally loses every trace of iron ; this sub- 
stance fixing itself to the walls of the bottle. 

"The most prominent and perceptible effects of 
these waters, when taken into the stomach, are cathar- 
tic, diuretic and tonic. They are much used in a great 
variety of complaints ; but the diseases in which they 
are most efficacious are jaundice and billions affections 
generally, dyspepsia, habitual costiveness, hypochon- 
drical complaints, depraved appetite, calculous and en- 
phritic complaints, phagedenic or ill-conditioned ulcers, 
cutaneous eruptions, chronic rheumatism, some species 
or states of gout, some species of dropsy, scrofula, par- 
alysis, scorbutic affections and old scorbutic ulcers, 
amenorrhea, dysmenorrhea and clorosis. In phthisis, 
and indeed all other pulmonary affections arising from 
primary diseases of the lungs, the waters are manifest- 
ly injurious, and evidently tend to increase the violence 
of the disease. 

" Much interest has been excited on the subject of 
the source of these singular waters ; but no researches 
have as yet unfolded the mystery. The large propor- 
tion of common salt found among their constituent 
properties may be accounted for without much difficul- 
ty — all the salt springs of Europe, as well as those of 
America, being found in geological situations exactly 
corresponding to these ; but the production of the un- 
exampled quantity of carbonic acid gas, the medium 
through which the other articles are held in solution, is 
yet, and probably will remain a subject of mere specu- 
lation. The low and regular temperature of the water 



170 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

seems to forbid the idea that it is the effect of subterra- 
nean heat, as many have supposed, and the total ab- 
sence of any mineral acid, excepting the muriatic, which 
is combined with soda, does away the possibility of its 
being the effect of any combination of that kind. Its 
production is therefore truly unaccountable."* 

In addition to the springs already enumerated, a val- 
uable SULPHUR SPRING was discovcrcd a few years since 
in the vicinity of the Hamilton Spring, in the rear of the 
Congress Hall. It rises from a depth of about twenty 
feet, in a tube of about 4 feet in diameter, and affords an 

♦ An analysis of the waters of this place and at Balls- 
ton Spa was made and published by Doct. Steel some 
years since, and has received the sanction of the most 
scientific men in this country and in Europe : since 
which he has prepared and published an entire new 
work, embracing not only an analysis of the various 
springs and directions for their use in the numerous dis- 
eases in which they have proved beneficial, but also a 
full and interesting histoiy of their discovery, and of the 
rise and progress of the villages in which they are loca- 
ted. The literary attainments of Doct. S. and his great 
experience from a long residence at this place, have en- 
abled him to render this work far superior to any thing 
of the kind which has appeared. It ought also to be 
remarked, that no invalid should attempt the use of 
these waters without the direction of a physician well 
acquainted with their properties. A contrary course, 
under the too prevalent and erroneous impres=^ion that 
they may be drank in all complaints, in any quantity, 
and at all hours of the day, has been attended in many 
instances with deleterious and sometimes with fatal 
consequences. There can be no doubt of their great 
efficacy in most complaints, when properly used ; yet 
ill-timed and too copious draughts not only fail of re- 
moving complaints, but frequently engender them. 



SARATOGA SPRIKGS. 171 

ample supply of water for the bathing establishment 
with which it is connected. It has already proved high- 
ly efficacious in many cases of salt rheum, scrofula 
and other cutaneous eruptions ; and were it generally 
known, would undoubtedly be resorted to more fre- 
quently by persons afflicted with these complaints. 

The boarding establishments of the first class at Sar- 
atoga Springs are the Congress Hall and Union Hall 
at the south end of the village, the Pavilion at the north, 
and the United States Hotel in a central situation be- 
tween them. Besides these, there are a number of oth- 
er boarding houses on a less extensive scale, the most 
noted of which are Montgomery Hall, the York House 
and the Adelphi in the south part, the Columbian Ho- 
tel and Washington Hall in the north part of the vil- 
lage, and the Rail Road House centrally located. Pros- 
pect Hall, kept by Mr. Benjamin R. Putnam, is on a 
beautiful site about one mile north-west of the village, 
and is a very respectable establishment. Highland 
Hall, half a mile south of the Congress Spring, is also 
a pleasant house, well patronized. 

The Congress Hall, kept by Mr. C. Munger, is sit- 
uated within a few rods of the Congress Spring, to 
which a handsome walk shaded with trees has been 
constructed for the convenience of guests. The space 
in front of the building is occupied by three apartments, 
each of which is enclosed by a railing, terminating at 
the front entrance of the piazza, and each used as a 
flower garden. The edifice is 200 feet in length, 3 
stories high, besides an attic, and has two wings ex- 
tending back, one 60, and the other about 100 feet. In 
front of the hall is a spacious piazza, extending the 



172 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

whole length of the building, 20 feet in width, with a 
canopy from the roof, supported by 17 massy columns, 
each of which is gracefully entwined with woodbine. 
There is also a back piazza, which opens upon a beau- 
tiful garden annexed to the establishment, and a small 
grove of pines, affording both fragrance and shade to 
their loitering guests. The Congress Hall can accom- 
modate from 250 to 300 visitants, and is justly ranked 
among the most elegant establishments in the union. 

The United States Hotel, kept by Messrs. Sea- 
man & Marvin, with its gardens and out buildings, oc- 
cupies a space in the centre of the village of about five 
acres. The main building is composed of brick, about 
200 feet long and 36 wide. It is four stories high, and 
has a wing on the north extending west 60 feet, three 
stones high. A building on the south, 100 by 50 feet, 
also extends from the main building westwardly, hav- 
ing a number of parlors and lodging rooms, and is ap- 
propriated exclusively to the use of families. The main 
building has a broad piazza, running the full length in 
front and across the south end, connecting with one in 
the rear and with one fronting the apartments for pri- 
vate families. The interior arrangements are on a pro- 
portionate scale — the dining and drawing rooms being 
equalled by few if any in extent and elegance. The 
ground in the rear of the hotel is handsomely laid out 
into walks, terminating on the west in a garden belong- 
ing to the establishment, and the whole is tastefully or- 
namented with trees and shrubbery. The front is also 
shaded by a row of forest trees extending the whole 
length of the building. The hotel is situated equally 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 173 

distant between the Congress and Flat Rock springs, 
and commands a view of the whole village, and from 
its fourth story a distinct prospect is had of the sur- 
rounding country for a number of miles. This estab- 
lishment can accommodate about 300 visitants, and is 
one of the largest and most splendid edifices in the 
United States. 

The Pavilion is situated in a pleasant partof the vil- 
lage, immediately in front of the Flat Rock spring. The 
building is constructed of wood, 136 feet in length, with 
a wing extending back from the centre of the main 
building SO feet, and another extending along Church 
street, of 200 feet, affording numerous private parlors, 
communicating with lodging rooms, for the conven- 
ience of families. The main building is two and a half 
stories high, with the addition of an attic, which, with 
the handsome portico in front, sustained by delicate 
colonnades, renders it, in beauty and proportion, one of 
the first models of architecture this country can pro- 
duce. The large rooms of the Pavilion are so construct- 
ed, that by means of folding doors the whole of the low- 
er apartments may be thrown into one — an advantage 
which gives much additional interest to the promenade 
and cotillion parlies, which frequently assemble on this 
extensive area. A large garden, to which is added a 
fish pond, is connected with the establishment. The 
Pavilion is calculated for the accommodation of about 
250 visitants. 

The Union Hall is one of the earliest and most re- 
spectable establishments in the vicinity, and is situated 
directly opposite the Congress Hall. It presents an el- 
egant front, 120 feet in length, 3 stories high, with two 



174 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

wings extending west 60 feet, and also an adjoining 
building, nearly 100 feet long, fitted up with parlors, &c. 
for private families. The Hall is ornamented in front 
by 10 columns, which rise to nearly the height of the 
building, and support the roof of a spacious piazza. A 
garden in the rear also contributes to the pleasantness 
of the establishment. It is kept by Messrs. Putnam 
&, Taylor, and ranks in point of elegance and respect- 
ability with the most favored public houses in the vi- 
cinity. 

The Adelphi Hotel, a short distance south of the 
TJ. States Hotel, is composed of brick, 3 stories high, 
and is well furnished and well kept by its popular ten- 
ant, Mr. Cross. 

The Columbian Hotel stands a few yards south of 
the Pavilion. Annexed to the establishment is a hand- 
some garden, lying on three sides of the building, which 
adds much to the beauty and advantage it enjoys in 
point of natural location. 

The Washington Hall, kept by Mr. Root, is beau- 
tifully located at the north part of the village, and is 
patronized by strangers who do not wish to mingle in 
the pleasures of the larger estabUshments. 

The price of board per week at the respective houses 
is from 4-to 12 dollars. 

The Reading Rooms. There is in the village a print- 
ing office and bookstore, with which is connected a 
reading room, a mineralogical room and a library, un- 
der the superintendence of the same proprietor. These 
rooms, a few doors north of the U. S. Hotel, are con- 
tained in the same building with the library and book- 
store, but have their separate apartments. That appro- 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 175 

priated for the reading room is furnished by the daily 
mails with about ICO papers, from different parts of the 
United States and from the Canadas, besides several 
periodical publications. The mineralogical apartment, 
on the second story, contains specimens of all the min- 
erals discovered in this vicinity, together with a variety 
from different parts of the union and from Eupope. An 
apartment adjoining the reading room contains a libra- 
ry of about 2500 volumes, which are well selected, and 
receive constant additions from the most fashionable 
productions of the day. There is also kept at the rooms 
a register of the names of visitants at the Springs, their 
residence and places of board. The names thus en- 
tered frequently number from S to 10,000 in the course 
of the season. 

These rooms afford a pleasant retreat from the noise 
and bustle of the boarding establishments, and are 
much frequented by ladies and gentlemen of taste and 
fashion. 

The mail arrives at the Springs every day in 16 or 
18 hours from New- York, and leaves every morning 
at 9 for Albany, intersecting with the Boston mail at 
that place. Strangers should be apprized that a post 
office is established in the town of Saratoga, about 12 
miles distant, to which letters intended for the Springs 
are often mis-sent, in consequence of their mis-di- 
rection. 

At both the villages of Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
there are always sufficient objects of amusement to 
render the transient residence of their summer guests 
pleasant ard agreeable. Those whose taste is not other- 
wise gratified can always enjoy a mental recreation at the 
p 



176 SARATOGA LAKE. 

reading rooms ; a ride on the rail road, carriages for 
which leave both villages several times a day ; or a short 
excursion in the neighborhood, where sufficient beauty 
and novelty of scenery are always presented to render 
it interesting. The amusements of the day are usually 
crowned with a ball or promenade. The respective 
apartments appropriated for these occasions are calcu- 
lated to accommodate from 150 to 200 guests ; but 
they often contain a much greater number. 

The spacious areas of the cotillion rooms are be- 
tween 80 and 120 feet in length, and when enlivened 
by the associated beauty and gaiety resorting to the 
springs, present an unusual degree of novelty and fas- 
cination. 

About two miles east from Saratoga Springs there is 
also a small fish pond, situated on the farm of a Mr. 
Barhyte. Parties often resort thither, as well to enjoy 
the amusements of fishing as to partake of a repast on 
trout, the proprietor reserving to himself the exclusive 
privilege of serving them up. Still farther east, about 
four miles from the Springs, is situated the 

Saratoga Lake. This lake is 9 miles long and 3 
broad. A resort is constantly kept up at Green's and 
at Riley's, on the western margin of the lake, the for- 
mer about four and the latter about six miles distant 
from Saratoga Springs. Sail boats are here fitted up 
for the accommodation of parties of pleasure, and im- 
plements for fishing are always in readiness for those 
who take pleasure in this fashionable diversion. The 
western shores of this lake are accessible but in a few 
places, in consequence of the adjacent marshes; on the 



BEMUS' HEIGHTS. 177 

east side the land is more elevated, and presents a fine 
prospect of farms under good improvement. The lake 
is supplied with water from the Kayaderosseras creek, 
which, taking its rise about 20 miles in a northwest di- 
rection, and receiving in its course a number of trib- 
utary streams, flows into the lake on the v/est side. 
Fish creek forms its outlet, through which the waters 
of the lake are communicated to the Hudson river about 
8 miles distant in an easterly direction. This creek 
empties into he Hudson river at Schuylerville, noticed 
at p. 179. 

Bemus' Heights, rendered memorable as the spot 
on which the British army under Gen. Burgoyne was 
defeated, in the revolutionary contest, are about 8 miles 
in a south-eastward ly direction from Green's on the 
Saratoga Lake. The battle ground is about two miles 
west of the Hudson river; and though without much 
to attract in its location or surrounding scenery, will 
nevertheless at all times prove interesting from its as- 
sociation with events which greatly contributed to the 
estabhshment of American independence. 

The two actions which preceded the surrender of the 
British army were fought on the 13th of September, 
1777, and on the 17th of October following. On the 
morning of the 8th, the American army marched into 
the British camp, which had been deserted the evening 
previous. The enemy continued to retreat till they had 
reached the height beyond the Fish creek, where they 
encamped on the lOlh. Finding his retreat cut offby a 
party of troops, who had taken possession in his rear, 
and his advance impeded by suprior numbers, General 
Burgoyne accepted the terms of capitulation, proposed 



178 BKMCS' HEIGHTS. 

by General Gates, and surrendered his whole army lo 
the American forces on the 17th October, 1777. The 
surrender took place at Fort Hardy, where the British 
stacked their arms, and were permitted to march out 
with the honors of war. This fortunate event was fol- 
lowed by a succession of brilliant achierements, and 
finally led to the surrender of Lord CoiTiwailis, which 
terminated the struggle of the revolution, after a period 
of nearly 8 years from its commencement. 

Freeman's Farm, on which the principal actions 
were fought, is immediately east of the main road run- 
ning north and south, a road passing directly across it 
to the Hudson river in an eastwardly direction. In a 
meadow adjoining the first mentioned road, about ten 
rods south of a blacksmith's shop, and near the fence, 
is the spot where Gen. Frazer fell.* A large bass-y/ood 
tree marked the place for a time ; but having been cut 
down, several sprouts which have sprung ■ap from the 
parent stock, now designate the spot. A few rods di- 
rectly south of this, on a slight eminence, is shown the 
place where Col. Cilley sat a-straddle of a brass twelve 
pounder, exulting in its capture ; and about half a mile 
still farther south is shown the house, still standing, 
which was used by Gen. Gates as his head-quarters. 

In proceeding to the river, the hill on which Gen. 
Frazer is buried is pointed out, about a mOs and a half 
east of the battle ground, and 20 rods north of the road. 
His remains were deposited, at his request, within a 

* Gen. Frazer was second in command to Gen. 
Burgoyne, and died on the Sth of October, 1777, from 
wounds received in battle the day previous.. 



SCHUTLER-VILLE. 179 

redoubt on the top of this hill. The redoubt, which is 
of an oblong form, from 100 to 150 feet in diameter, ia 
still perfectly visible ; and the spot of Gen. Frazer's in- 
terment is near the centre, though no monument of 
any description has ever been erected to mark the place 
where repose the remains of this gallant warrior. 

Smith's House, in which General Frazer died, and 
which, at that time, stood near the foot of this hill, has 
been removed about 80 rods in a north-eastwardly di- 
rection to the turnpike. It is a low old fashioned Dutch 
building, with the gable end to the river, painted yel- 
low — the sides red, and shingle roof. The entrance is 
towards the river, under an old dilapidated portico — 
and the whole bears the marks of antiquity — the only 
addition to it being a small out-house. The room in 
which Gen. Frazer died is directly in front, and has un- 
dergone no material change since that period. 

Eight miles north of this, on the turnpike, is the vil- 
lage of 

Schuyler- ViLLE, noted as the residence of the late 
Gen. Schuyler, and still more so as the place where 
Gen. Burgoyne surrendered to the American army in 
October, 1777. 

The ground on which the surrender took place, was 
in a vale nearly east, and in plain view of the stage 
house on the turnpike in Schuyler- Ville, and still ex- 
hibits the remains of an entrenchment called Fort Har- 
dy. About 40 rods in a south-east direction, at the 
mouth of Fish creek, is the site of Fort Schuyler. The 
arms of the British were stacked in the vale in front of 
p2 



180 FORT EDWARD. 

Fort Hardy, and from thence they were marched to the 
high grounds a little west of the village, and admitted 
to parol as prisoners of war. At the southern extremi- 
ty of the vale is a basin for the northern canal, which 
passes through this place. About half a mile south of 
the basin stands the house of Philip Schuyler, Esq. lo- 
cated near the spot where once stood the mansion of 
his grand-father, the intrepid Gen. Schuyler, which, with 
other buildings, were burnt by the British array on their 
retreat from the battle of the 7th October. 

The village contains SO or 90 houses, and an exten- 
sive cotton factory and machine shop, owned by Mr. 
Schuyler. 

Fort-Edward is 12 miles north of Schuyler- Ville. 
It is not on the usual route of travellers from the 
Springs to Lake George ; but being a short distance 
only from Sandy-Hill, it may be easily visited. The 
fort, once situated where the village now stands, has 
long since been demolished ; though its former loca- 
tion is easily traced in the mounds of earth which are 
still visible. About 100 rods north of the village is a 
dam across the Hudson river, 27 feet high and 900 feet 
long, supplying with water a feeder to the northern ca- 
nal. The cost of this dam was 5530,000. There is also 
a permanent bridge across the river a short distance 
below. 

A little north of this, on the west side of the road, 
the traveller is shown a large pine tree, with a spring 
near its foot, memorable as the spot where Miss M'- 
Crea was murdered by the Indians during the revolu- 
tionary M'ar. She was betrothed to a Mr. Jones, an 



SANDT HILL. 181 

American refugee, who was in Burgoyne's army. Anx- 
ious for a union with his intended bride, he despatched 
a party of Indians to escort her to the British camp. 
Against the remonstrance of her friends, she committed 
herself to the charge of these Indians. She was placed 
on horseback, and accompanied her guides to the spring 
in question, where they were met by another party sent 
on the same errand. An altercation ensued between 
them as to the promised reward, and while thus engag- 
ed they were attacked by the whites. At the close of 
the conflict, the unhappy young woman was found a 
short distance from the spring, tomahawked and scalp- 
ed. There is a tradition that her scalp was divided by 
the respective parties, and carried to her agonized lov- 
er. He is said to have survived the shock but a short 
time, and to have died of a broken heart. The name 
of Miss M'Crea is inscribed on the tree, with the date 
1777. Her remains were disinterred a few years since, 
and deposited in the church-yard at Sandy Hill. 

Sandy Hill is two miles from Fort Edward, on the 
route from Saratoga Springs to Lake George.* It is 
situated on very elevated ground, on the margin of the 
Hudson river, immediately above Baker's Falls, about 
19 miles from the Springs. The streets are laid out in 
the form of a triangle. In the centre is an open area, 
surrounded by handsomely constructed stores and 

♦ A rail road is now constructing from Saratoga 
Springs to Whitehall, on Lake Champlain, 40 miles in 
extent, which will pass through this place. The bridge 
across the river will be 1200 feet long, and of a noble 
and permanent structure. 



182 glen's falls. 

dwellings. The village contains about 100 houses and 
500 inhabitants. The courts of the county are held al- 
ternately here and at Salem. 

Glen's Falls, a village more populous, is 3 miles 
further up the Hudson river, on the direct route to Lake 
George. At this place are the celebrated falls from 
which the village takes its name. These are situa- 
ted about one fourth of a mile south of the village, 
near a bridge, extending partly over the falls, and 
from which the best view of them may be had. The 
falls are formed by the waters of the Hudson, which 
flow in one sheet over the brink of the precipice, but 
are immediately divided by the rocks into three chan- 
nels. The height of the falls is ascertained, by meas- 
urement, to be 63 feet ; though the water flows in an 
angular descent of 4 or 500 feet. Some rods below the 
falls is a long cave in the rocks, extending from one 
channel to the other. On its walls are inscribed a va- 
riety of names of former guests, who have thought 
proper to pay this customary tribute. The rocks, which 
are at some seasons covered with water, but at others 
entirely dry, are chequered with small indentations, 
and in many places considerable chasms are formed, 
probably by pebbles kept in motion by the falling wa- 
ter. It is very evident that these falls, like those of 
^Niagara, were once a considerable distance lower down 
the river — the banks below being composed of shelving 
rocks, from 30 to 70 feet perpendicular height. On the 
north side of the river is a navigable feeder, communi- 
cating with the Champlain canal. It commences near- 
ly two miles above the falls, and, with the exception of 



glen's falls. 183 

about a quarter of a mile, which appears to have been 
cut out of a shelving rock, runs along a ravine east of 
Sandy Hill, and intersects the main canal some dis^ 
tance below.* 

There are extensive quarries of black and variegated 
marble at Glen's Falls, which is here sawed into slabs 
and transported to New- York for manufacture. 

Conveyances from Sandy Hill, ria Glen's Falls, to 
Lake George, may at all times be procured. From 
Glen's Falls to the Lake the distance is 9 miles over an 

* Jessup's Falls, which are about 10 miles above 
Glen's Falls on the Hudson, are worthy the attention 
of travellers. The whole scenery is highly romantic 
and picturesque, and the descent of the falls, which are 
perpendicular and embrace the v/hole river in an entire 
sheet, is nearly 100 feet. Five miles farther north are 
the Hadlet Falls, which are a succession of pitches 
over a rocky and uneven bed. The whole descent, 
commencing at the upper fall, is between 80 and 100 
feet. Over the lower fall a permanent bridge, about 50 
feet from the water, is erected. The river here is con- 
tracted to a very narrow space, v/ithin lofty rocky em- 
bankments, between which the vi'ater rushes with great 
force and wildness into the basin below, uniting with 
the Sacondaga river, a large and rapid stream, which 
rises about GO miles at the north-west. Both of these 
rivers abound with trout and other fish, affording ample 
employment for those who are fond of angling. The 
country here is extremely rugged and mountainous, 
and presents but little appearance of cultivation. 

Travellers designing to visit these places, will find 
it the most convenient to take a carnage at Saratoga 
Springs, from which to Jessup's Falls is 14 miles, and 
to Hadley Falls 5 miles further. The route is over a 
good road, and, including a visit of two or three hours, 
may be easily performed (going and returning) in a day. 



184 fcALDWELL — LAKE GEORGE. 

indifferent road, affording little other variety than 
mountains and forests, with here and there a rustic 
hamlet. Within three and a half miles of Lake George 
on the right hand, and a short distance from the road, 
is pointed out the rock at the foot of which Col. Wil- 
liams was massacred by the Indians, during the French 
war. At the distance of half a mile farther, on the 
same side of the road, is the " Bloody Pond,''^ so called 
from its waters having been crimsoned with the blood 
of the slain who fell in its vicinity, during a severe en- 
gagement in 1755. It is said that skulls are found in 
the neighborhood of this pond, and that numerous oth- 
ers may be taken from the bottom. Three miles far- 
ther is situated the village of 

Caldwell, on the south-western margin of the lake. 
This village contains a number of neat little buildings, 
and about 400 inhabitants. The Lake George Coffee 
House is fitted up in good style, and can accommodate 
from 80 to 100 visitants. There are here, also, a post- 
office, a church, and a court house. The village is bor- 
dered on the east by a range of hills, to the highest of 
which, called Prospect Bill, a road has been made, and 
though difficult of ascent, the toil is richly compensated 
in the diversified and extensive prospect afforded from 
its summit. 

LAKE GEORGE 

Is situated but a short day's ride from the village of 
Saratoga Springs, (27 miles,) from whence an excur- 
sion to the Lake is considered as a matter of course. 
Indeed there are few places where a greater variety of 



LAKE GEORGE. 185 

inducements attract the stranger than at Lake George. 
Besides the interest which is excited from an associa- 
tion of many important historic events, this place is 
rendered pecuharly interesting from the unrivalled ex- 
hibition of the beautiful and romantic scenery present- 
ed by the lake and its environs. At the village of Cald- 
well the lake is about one mile in width, but it general- 
ly varies from three fourths of a mile to four miles. The 
whole length is 36 miles. The waters are discharged 
into Lake Champlain, at Ticonderoga, by an outlet 
which, in the distance of 2 miles, falls 180 feet. 

Lake George is remarkable for the transparency of 
its waters. They are generally very deep, but at an 
ordinary depth the clean gravelly bottom is distinctly 
visible. The great variety of excellent fish which are 
caught here renders it a favorite resort for those who 
are fond of angling. The salmon trout is caught in 
abundance, weighing from 12 to 20 pounds. The lake 
is interspersed with a great number of small islands, 
the principal of which. Diamond Island, once contain- 
ing a military fortification, and Tea Island, on which is 
a summer house erected for the amusement of parties 
cf pleasure, are visible from the head of the lake. The 
whole number of islands is said to equal the number of 
days in a year. 

The scenery on the borders of the lake is generally 
mountainous. With the exception of some intervals, 
chequered with fruitful cultivation, the land recedes 
from the lake with a gentle acclivity, for a few rods, 
and then, with a bolder ascent, to an elevation of from 
500 to 1500 feet. The best view of the lake and its 
environs is had from the southern extremity, near the 



186 LAKE GEORGE. 

remains of old Fort George,* from whence the prospect 
embraces the village of Caldwell and the numerous ht- 
tle islands rising from the calm bosom of the lake, 
whose waters are beautifully contrasted with the par- 
allel ridges of craggy mountains, through an extent of 
nearly 14 miles. Kear the southern shore of the lake 
are the ruins of an old fortification, called 

Fort William Henry. Vestiges of the walls and 
out-works are still to be seen. Previous to its con- 
struction, the site of the fort was occupied by the Eng- 
lish army under the command of Sir William John- 
son, who was making preparations for an attack upon 
Crown Point. Before any movement was made by 
Sir William, the French army, under the command of 
Baron Dieskau, marched from Ticonderoga for Fort 
Edwaid, but afterwards changing his purpose, he was 
proceeding to the head of the lake, when he unexpect- 
edly fell in with a party of the English, who had been 
detached by Sir VViUiam for the relief of Fort Edward. 
A severe battle ensued, in which the English v/ere de- 
feated, and compelled hastily to retire from the field. 
They were pursued into their intrenchments by the 
French army, who commenced a furious assault upon 
ihe English camp, but were repulsed with great slaugh- 
ter. The discomfited Baron, on his retreat from this 
unsuccessful attack, was a third time engaged by a par- 
ty of English, who had been despatched by the garrison 



* A very good prospect is also obtained from the top 
of the Lake George House ; but one far better from 
Prospect Hiii, previously mentioned. 



LAKE GEORGE. 187 

at Fort Edward, to succor Sir William Johnson, and 
totally defeated. These three several engagements 
took place on the same day, the 6th September, 1755, 
in the vicinity of Bloody Pond, into which the bodies of 
the slain were afterwards thrown. In 1757 Fort Wil- 
liam Henry contained a garrison of 3000 mgn, under 
the command of Col. Munroe. The Marquis de Mont- 
calm, after three attempts to besiege the fort in form, 
reinforced his army to about 10,000 men, and summon- 
ed Col. Munroe to surrender. This summons being 
refused, Montcalm, after a furious assault, obliged the 
English to capitulate. The terms of the capitulation, 
though honorable to the English, were shamefully vio- 
lated by the Indians attached to the French army, who 
massacred the whole garrison, except a small remnant 
who made their escape to For6 Edward, The fort was 
razed to the ground by Montcalm, and was never after- 
wards rebuilt. This spot was the scene of embarka- 
tion of Gen. Abercrombie, who, in 175S, descended the 
lake with an army of 15,000 men, for an attack on Ti~ 
conderoga. About 80 rods farther south, on a com- 
manding eminence, are situated the vestiges of old 
Fort George. This fort, though not distinguished by 
any event of importance, yet, in connection v/ith the 
history of Lake George, imparts an interest which a 
stranger will readily embrace in a visit to its moulder- 
ing ruins. A part of the walls, which were originally 
built of stone, are still visible, from 30 to 40 feet in 
height. This fort was the depot for the stores of Gen. 
Burgoyne, for some time during the revolutionary war. 
A steam boat usually performs a daily trip on Lake 
George, so as to intersect the boats running on Lake 
& 



188 LAKE GEORGE. 

Champlain ; leaving Caldsvell in the morning, and re- 
turning at evening. The length of the lake, on which 
the boat runs, is 36 miles — fare $2. From the steam 
boat landing to Ticonderoga is a distance of 3 miles ; 
for which a conveyance is provided, going and return- 
ing, for 50 cents each way. Refreshments are provided 
at a tavern, half a mile from the landing, after which 
parties usually proceed to the fort, and return to the 
tavern the same evening, from whence they may take 
the boat on its return the next day to Caldwell. 

The Passage of Laice George cannot fail to im- 
part a great degree of interest, even to the most indif- 
ferent observer. The Lake is interspersed with a great 
variety of islands, some of which are very small, but 
yet serve the purpose of diversifying the prospect. The 
smooth, green surface of the water is strikingly con- 
trasted with the bold and rugged shores of the Lake, 
which vary their distance from ^ of a mile to 4 miles 
in width, and occasionally rise to 1,500 feet in height. 
These circumstances, added to the numerous historical 
associations which are continually suggested to the 
mind, and to the animation which a fair day and pros- 
peroiis passage are calculated to impart, serve to create 
impressions which must always be remembered with 
peculiar satisfaction. 

Ten miles from Caldwell, down the Lake, are a 
range of mountains possessed by a celebrated hunter 
as a Deer Pasture. In the spring, when the vegeta- 
tion of the previous year is sufficiently dry, he sets fire 
to t'le mountains. Subsequently, green and tender 
herbs spring forth, and induce droves of deer to resort 
thither in quest of food ; by which means the hunter 



LAKE GEORGE. 181$ 

succeeds in killing hundreds annually. On the oppo- 
site side of the lake, at a very considerable elevation, is 
the residence of a wealthy farmer of Bolton. Two 
miles further is Twelve Mile Island, being that dis- 
tance from Caldwell. It is of a circular form, of about 
20 acres, situated in the centre of the lake, and is elevat- 
ed 30 or 40 feet above the water. From thence one 
mile, on the north west side of the lake, is 

Tongue Mountain, with West Bat on its west 
side, one and a half miles wide, and extending in a 
northerly direction 6 miles. What are called the Nar- 
rows commence here, and continue for 6 or 7 miles, be- 
ing three fourths of a mile wide and very deep. A line 
500 feet long has been used in sounding without reach- 
ing bottom. 

Black Mountain, 18 miles from the head of the 
Lake, is situated on the east side, and has been ascer- 
tained, by admeasurement, to be 2200 feet in height. 
Opposite to Black Mountain, near the western shore, is 

Half Wat Island. A short distance north of this 
is some of the finest mountain scenery on the conti- 
nent. The mountains exhibit an undulating appear- 
ance, are thickly studded with pines and firs, and inter- 
spersed with deep and almost impenetrable caverns. 

Sabbath Dat Point, 24 miles from Caldwell, is a 
projection of the main land into the Lake from the west 
side. It is a place on which the Enghsh troops landed 
on the Sabbath during the French war, and is the 
spot on which a sanguinary battle was fought with the 
Indians. The English, with no chance of retreat, were 
all killed. From thence, 3 miles, is a small island call- 



190 LAKE GEORGE. 

cd the Scotch Bokxet. Three miles further on the 
west shore of the lake, is a little hamlet called by the 
inhabitants the city of Hague, containing only two or 
three dwellings, and as many saw mills. The lake is 
here 4 miles wide, being its greatest width. From this 
place to 

Roger's Slide is 3 miles. This is celebrated as 
the spot where Col. Rogers escaped from the Indians 
during the French war. The descent is an angle of 
about 25 degrees, over a tolerably smooth rock, 200 
feet in height. The Col. who had been a great foe to 
the Indians, was nearly surrounded by them on the top 
of the mountain, and found no other means of escape 
than to shde down this precipice. It being winter, and 
having snow shoes on his feet, he landed safely on the 
ice. The Indians afterwards saw him ; but supposing 
that no human being could have made the descent, and 
that he must, of course, be supernatural, they conclud- 
ed it not only useless but dangerous to follow him. 

Anthony's Nose, so called from its singular shape, 
is a high rock, nearly opposite to Roger's slide. The 
shores here are bold and contracted, and exhibit mas- 
sive rocks, which arc from 50 to 100 feet in height. 
From thence to 

Prisoner's Island, is two miles, a spot where pris- 
oners were confined during the French war ; and di- 
rectly west of this is Lord Howe's Point, so called 
from being the place where Lord Homc landed imme- 
diately previous to the battle in which he was killed at 
Ticonderoga. He was a brother of Lord Howe, who 
commanded the British forces at Philadelphia during 
the revolutionary war. The water here, from a deep 



TICONDEROGA. J91 

green, assumes a light color, owing to a clayey bottom. 
From thence to the outlet of the lake, which terminates 
the steam boat passage, is one mile. Three miles fur- 
ther, over a circuitous and uneven road, in an easterly 
direction, is the fort and ruins of 

TicoNDEROGA. The point projects between the lake 
on one side, which here suddenly expands to the west, 
and the creek on the other side, which unites the waters 
of lakes George and Champlain. On the opposite side 
of the latter lake, in a south east direction, stands 
Mount Independence. Mount Defiance, 720 feet in 
height, is situated across the creek directly west of the 
Fort. This height was occupied by the artillery of 
Gen. Burgoyne in 1777, when the Americans were 
compelled to evacuate Ticonderoga. The fortress of 
Ticonderoga was first constructed by the French in 
1 756. The works appear to have been very strong, are 
elevated about 200 feet above the level of lake Cham- 
plain, and 'many of the walls are still standing. The 
magazine is nearly entire. It is 35 feet long, 1 5 feet 
wide, and 8 feet high, constructed under ground, of 
stone, and arched. A subterraneous passage leada 
from the southwest corner of the works to the lake, 20 
or 30 rods in length. Through this passage Col. Ethan 
Allen passed when he took possession of the fort " in 
the name of the Great Jehovah and the Continental Con- 
frressJ'^ The remains of another fortification, built dur- 
ing the revolutionary war, are still to be seen about GO 
rods farther south on the point adjoining the lake. The 
walls next to the lake are nearly 60 feet high. 
r2 



192 TICONDEROGA. 

In 1758 Ticonderoga was attacked by Gcnoral Abcr- 
crombie, who was repulsed with the loss of 2000 men. 
On the approach of Gen. Amherst, in 1759, it was quiet- 
ly abandoned by the French, as was also Crown Point. 
It continued in possession of the British until tiie year 
1775, when it was taken by Col. Allen. On evacuating 
the fort in 1777, Gen. St. Clair ordered a detachment 
to accompany the American stores and baggage to 
Whitehall, where they were pursued by Gen. Bur- 
goyne, and from thence to Fort Ann- At the latter 
place a smart skirmish ensued, between the two parties, 
in which the British sustained a considerable loss. The 
main army retired from Ticonderoga to Hubbardton, 
where a party, consisting of about 1000 under Col. 
Warner, were overtaken by the British advanced guard, 
and after a severe action abandoned the field to superior 
numbers. From thence they joined Gen. Schuyler at 
Fort Edward on the 12th July, 1777. 

From Ticonderoga, travellers may beconveyed across 
the lake to Larrabee's, in Shoreham, Vermont, a dis- 
tance of one mile, where those designing a tour to 
Montreal and Gluebec, may take passage in a Cham- 
plain steam boat, for St. Johns, The boat arrives at 
Larrabee's towards evening, and the passage from 
thence to Plattsburgh, with the exception of about 15 
miles to Crown Point, is generally in the night. At 
present the most usual arrangements of the tourist are, 
after visiting Lake George and Ticonderoga, to return 
to the Springs, and from thence proceed by the rail 
road to Schenectady, where a passag-e can be taken 
twice a day for Niagara, 



EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 



193 



EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 
Travellers who design to visit Niagara and return 
without proceeding down Lake Ontario to Montreal, 
will find an excursion the most pleasant and diversified 
by taking the rail roads wherever they are completed, 
and stages in going and canal hoats in returning, on 
the intermediat^e parts of the route. The stage route 
afl:brds a better prospect of the populous parts of the 
country ; but is generally so far from the canal, that no 
opportunity is given of witnessing many of the thriving 
villages on its banks. It is therefore advisable so to 
arrange a tour that the most interesting parts of both 
routes may be seen in going and returning. To effect 
this, a rail road passage can be taken at Saratoga 
Springs to Utica, 100 miles, which, whenever the Utica 
and Syracuse and Auburn rail roads are finished, can be 
extended to the latter place, 80 miles farther ; but until 
then, the stage route, passing through Skaneateles, 
Auburn, Geneva, Canandaigua and Batavia to Bufllalo, 
200 miles from Utica, will be continuous, unless Ro- 
chester shall be taken in the excursion— in which case, 
the Tonawanta rail road, from that place to Batavia, 32 
miles distant, can be taken, and the stage route pursued 
to Buffalo, 40 miles farther. In returning the tourist 
can take the rail road from BuflTaloto Niagara Falls, 22 
miles; and a stage from thence to Lockport, 20 miles, 
(until the rail road between the two places is finished ;) 
a canal packet from thence, via Rochester, Palmyra, 
Syracuse and Rome to Utica, 223 miles ; and a rail 
road from thence to Saratoga Springs or Albany, 



194 EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 

If the tourist designs to return by the way of Mon- 
treal, the following route to the Falls is recommended 
as the most interesting : Rail road from Saratoga 
Springs to Utica, (as before,) 100 miles ; ?tage or canal 
packet to Syracuse, 61 miles; rail road to Auburn, 22 
miles ; stage, via Seneca Falls, Waterloo, Geneva and 
Canandaigua, to Rochester, 66 miles ; rail road to Ba- 
tavia, 32 miles ; stage (until rail road is completed) to 
Buffalo, 40 miles ; rail road to the Falls, 22 miles ; 
stage to Lewiston, 7 miles ; from whence (and at 
Q,ueenston, on the opposite side of the Niagara river) 
the Lake Ontario steam boats are taken for Montreal. 

That tourists, however, may be the better enabled to 
gratify their taste as to the mode of travelling, we sub- 
join a sketch of the stage and canal routes, disconnect- 
ed, premising that a change irom one to the other may 
be effected at various points. 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BUFFALO. 



195 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BUFFALO — 302 milcS. 

[Rail Road and Stage Route.] 

Distance from 



o 


d, 


t^ 




1 


ri 


m 


'O 
















a. 


ei 








o 


O 


o 






o 
o 
a 




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3 
3 


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p 


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Bij Rail Road. 
Saratoga Springs,., 

Ballston Spa, 

Schenectady, 

Amsterdam, 

Fonda, 

Palatine Bridge, . . . 

Fort Plain, 

St. Johnsville, 

Little Falls, 

Herkimer, 

Utica, 

By Stage. 
New Hartford, .... 

Manchester, 

Vernon, • 

Oneida Castle, ... , 

Lenox, 

auality Hill, , 

Chitteningo, > 

Manlius, 

.Tamesville, 

Onondaga Hollow, 
Onondaga Hill, . . . 

Marcellus, 

Skaneateles,., 

Auburn, ..... •• . . 



M 









2U 


99 


174 


6h 


Gh 


15 


92^ 


167 


15 


2H 





78 


153 


16 


37 


16 


62 


137 


10 


47 


26 


52 


127 


n 


58 


37 


41 


116 


3 


61 


40 


38 


113 


7 


68 


48 


31 


106 


10 


78 


58 


21 


96 


7 


85 


65 


14 


89 


14 


99 


78 





75 


4 


103 


82 


4 


71 


5 


103 


87 


9 


66 


8 


116 


95 


17 


58 


5 


121 


100 


22 


53 


3 


124 


103 


25 


50 


3 


127 


105 


23 


47 


5 


132 


111 


33 


42 


8 


140 


119 


41 


34 


6 


146 


125 


47 


28 


4 


150 


129 


51 


24 


3 


153 


132 


54 


21 


8 


161 


140 


62 


13 


6 


167 


146 


68 


7 


7 


174 


153 


75 


1 



302 
295 
281 
265 
255 
244 
341 
J34 
324 

;i7 

203 

199 
194 
186 
181 
78 
175 
170 
162 
158 
152 
149 
141 
135 
128 



196 



CTICA AND SCHENECTADI RAIL ROAD. 



Distance from 





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P- 1 


rt 


■•-> 




^ 


o 


O 


^ 


d 


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3 


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a 




o 


^ 


rt 


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.^ 




3 


C 


CO 


r/i 


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<: 



Cayu o:a, 

Seneca Falls, 

Waterloo,. 

Geneva, 

Canandaigua, 

East Bloomfield, 

West Bloomfield, 

Lima, 

East Avon, 1 

Avon Post Office, 

Caledonia, 

Leroy, 

Batavia, 

Pembroke, 

Clarence, 

Williamsville, 

Buffalo, 



1182 
186 
190 
197 
213 
222 
227 
231 
236 
238 
246 
252 
262 
276 
284 
292 
302 



161 


83 


165 


87 


169 


91 


176 


98 


192 


114 


201 


123 


206 


123 


210 


132 


215 


137 


217 


139 


225 


147 


231 


153 


241 


163 


255 


177 


263 


185 


271 


193 


281 


203 



8 

12 

16 

23 

39 

48 

53 

57 

G2 

64 

72 

78 

88 

102 

110 

118 

128 



120 

116 

112 

105 

89 

80 

75 

71 

6G 

64 

56 

50 

40 

26 

18 

10 





A passage by rail road between Saratoga Springs 
and Utica can be effected tvvice a day — the time usually 
employed being 7 hours — fare on both roads $4,25, 
The Saratoga and Schenectady rail road was noticed 
at page 151, 

The Utica and Schcnectadt Rail Road com- 
mences in State street in Schenectady, and crossing the 
Mohawk river on a new and permanent bridge 800 feet 
long, continues in a northerly direction parallel with the 
Saratoga road for about a mile, when it curves to the 



UTICA AND SCHENECTADY RAILROAD. 197 

west, and pursues the direction of tlie Mohawk vallej', 
which it reaches in about 8 miles. From thence it con- 
tinues along the northern bank and generally in view 
of the river till within 3 or 4 miles of Utica, when it re- 
crosses the river and the southern bank is taken to 
Utica. The country is remarkably level, and generally 
favorable for a rail road — the acclivities, with a solitary 
exception, not exceeding 15 or 16 feet per mile. At 
Tripe Hill, about 20 miles from Schenectady, there is 
an excavation of some magnitude through solid rock ; 
after passing which, the valley spreads out and affords a 
route of several miles through some of the finest 
meadows in the state. At the Nose, 12 miles farther, 
the passage becomes contracted by bold and lofty 
mountains, affording, for some distance, a scanty width 
for the rail road, turnpike, river and canal, the latter of 
which is on the southern side of the Mohawk. After 
passing Palatine, Canajoharie and Fort Plain, embraced 
within a distance of 12 or 14 miles, the valley again 
widens, affording a charming view of hill and dale, un- 
til reaching the mountain scenery near Little Falls. 
This is by far the most interesting part of the route. 
Within two miles of the village, the passage of the river 
is confined within very narrow limits between two lofty 
and precipitous mountains. To find room for the canal, 
it became necessary to excavate and remove immense 
masses of rock, and even to form an aqueduct for a 
portion of it in the river. Similar labor was requi- 
site on the opposite side in finding a passage for the rail 
road. For a considerable distance t!ie carriages run 
very near a roclcy barrier of great height, not dissiiTiilar 
in appearance to the Palisadocs between the Highlands 



193 DTICA AND SCHENECTADY RAIL ROAD. 

and New- York. Passing this, the carriages soon cross 
what is called " the Gulf," on a bridge composed of one 
arch of 160 feet span, at an elevation of 50 or 60 feet 
above the water. Succeeding this, are alternate rocky 
excavations and embankments of great magnitude, 
until the road passes beyond the precincts of the village. 
Seven miles farther, after crossing the West Canada 
creek, the road enters upon what are called the German 
Flats, which for richness and beauty are not surpassed 
by any lands on the continent. Beyond these, the 
country is less interesting until reaching within 3 or 4 
miles ofXJtica; when the finely cultivated farms indi- 
cate their contiguity to a populous and flourishing town. 
The approach to Utica is pecuharly fine, — a full view 
of the city being had for some distance previous to en- 
tering it, together with the depot of the company, and 
its buildings, which are spacious and handsome. The 
whole route, indeed, possesses much interest, exhibiting 
a scenery unusually rich and diversified, and of itself 
abundantly attractive to compensate a tourist in the 
excursion. 

The road is graded for a double track, and the cen- 
tral part, for a distance of IS or 20 miles, affording an 
ample passing place for the trains, completed. The resi- 
due is a single track, with occasional turnouts. The 
work was commenced in 1834, and so far finished that 
the transportation of passengers was effected over the 
whole line on the 2d of Aug. 1S36. Length 78 miles — 
cost, including fixtures, engines and carriages, about 
SI, 600,000. 

Schenectady. (See p. 150.) 



AMSTERDAM — FONDA. 199 

Amsterdam, 16 miles west of Schenectady, is the 
first villa o^e of any magnitude that is reached on the 
route. It is located on the north side of the Mohawk 
river over which there is a substantial bridge. The 
villao-c contains about 150 houses, and has become a 
place of considerable importance from its proximity to 
the river and the Erie canal, but more especially so 
from the creek which passes thi-ough the village, and 
which, within half a mile, falls over a number of beau- 
tiful cascades, affording admirable facilities for manu- 
facturing operations. 

About one mile from Amsterdam, on the south side 
of the rail road, is a stone building, erected by Col. Guy 
Johnson, son- in-law of Sir William Johnson, which 
was occupied by the former previous to the revolution ; 
and a mile farther, on the opposite side of the road, is a 
stone building which Vv^as occupied by Sir John, the son 
of Sir William. Three miles farther, the road passes 
around the base of Tripe Hill, affording a fine prospect 
of the country on the opposite side of the river, em- 
bracing the broad and beautiful valley of the Mohawk, 
the outlet of the Schoharie creek, the dam and bridge 
across the same, and the Erie canal ; from whence to 
Caughnavvaga, an old and unimportant village, is four 
and a half miles, and to the village of 

Fonda, half a mile farther. This place has been re- 
cently selected as the site for the public buildings and 
courts of the county. A new court house, a first rate 
public house and several other buildings have been 



200 PALATINE BRIDGE — FORT PLAIN. 

lately erected; but the village is yet in its infancy.' 
The Nose, a rocky point originally jutting into the 
river, and which' was deformed to make room for the rail 
road, is six miles farther ; from w'hcncc to 

Palatine Bridge is 5 miles. A bridge here crosses 
the Mohawk river to the village of Canajohahie, from 
whence a rail road to Catskill, noticed at page 140, has 
been commenced. 

Fort Plain, a flourishing little village, is 3 miles 
west of Palatine Bridge, on the opposite side of the 
river. A fort, from which the place derives its name, 
was constructed here during the revolutionary war; 

* Johnstown, celebrated as the former residence of 
Sir William Johnson, is 4 miles north of this place, and 
till recently, was the capital of the county. The court- 
house and jail were built by Sir William. The Episco- 
pal church, also built by him, and beneath which his 
remains were interred, was accidentally destroyed by 
fire in the autumn of 1836. The house, or what is 
called the " Hall," formerly occupied by him, is about 
a mile from the village. Attached to it is a building 
which was used by him as a fort ; into which he had 
occasion, at times, to retreat from the assaults of the 
Indians. The marks of tomahawks are still visible on 
the stair-case in the main building. 

The battle of Johnstown, October, 1781. in which 
the British and Indians were defeated, was fought on 
the " Hall" farm. The American troops, consisting of 
between 4 and 500, were commanded by the venerable 
Col. Vv^illct, who lately died at New- York. After the 
defeat, the enemy were pursued by him to the Canada 
creek, where several were killed, including Maj. Butler. 
Out of 607 of the hostile force sent on this expedition, 
but 220 returned to Canada. 



LITTLE FALLS. 201 

though but little of its remains are now to be seen. 
The place was originally settled by Germans, who suf- 
fered severely from the early Indian wars of this coun- 
try. During the revolution, those who had taken ref- 
uge in the fort, were surprised by Capt. Butler, on his 
return from burning Cherry Valley, and became a prey 
to similar atrocities.* 

The East Canada Creek is passed by a substantial 
bridge, in going 4 miles farther ;t from which to 

Little Falls is 6 miles. This place takes its name 
from a cataract in the vicinity, which, in size, is much 
inferior to the celebrated Cohoes, (noticed at p. 163,) 
and ha?, therefore, been denominated the Little Falls of 
the Mohawk. A continuation of the chain of the Cats- 
bergs crosses the river at this place, and forms a rough 
bed for the waters of the cataract, which pour over the 
rocky fragments in the wildest confusion. Approach- 
ing from the east, a loftly ridge of mountains, frowning 
in grandeur on either side, conceals the course of the 
river and the falls, whose vicinity is announced only 

* The Sharon Springs, a few miles south of Fort 
Plain, are becoming a place of considerable resort. 
The waters are highly impregnated with sulphur, and 
have proved very useful in cutaneous eruptions, rheu- 
matism, &c. ; and an elegant public house for the ac- 
commodation of visitants has been erected, 

t About 3 miles west of the East Canada creek, on 
the south side of the Mohawk river and canal, a brick 
house is seen, standing on elevated ground, which was 
the former residence of Gen. Herkimer. He received 
a wound in a skirmish durina; the revolution, of which 
he died at his residence. His remains repose in an 
adjoining field. 



202 LITTLE FALLS. 

by the distant din and foam of its waters. For a con- 
siderable distance, a narrow pass only is allowed for 
the road, river, and canal, with immense natural battle- 
ments of rock on either side, affording a sublime and 
interesting spectacle. About half a mile from the vil- 
lage the rail road curves to the left, presenting a view 
of the falls tumbling with irresistible violence over a 
gradual rocky descent of about eighty rods. At the 
termination of the ascent is situated the village, con- 
taining about 200 houses and ISOO inhabitants. A 
cluster of buildings, rising between the rushing waters 
of the Mohawk on the one hand, and the rugged cliffs 
and eminences on the other; the smooth current of the 
stream above gently gliding to the tumultuous scene be- 
low, and beyond the distant vale of the Moliawk, diver- 
sified with fields, orchards, meadows, and farm houses, 
all contribute to set off the romantic appearance for 
which this place is so justly celebrated. This village 
derives most of its importance from the facilities for 
trade and commerce afforded by means of the Mohawk 
river and the Erie canal. Boats were formerly trans- 
ported around the falls through a canal on the north 
side of the river. This old canal contained eight locks, 
and is now connected with the Erie canal on the south 
side of the river by means of an aqueduct 184 feet in 
length. The descent of the Erie canal here, in the 
distance of one mile, is 40 feet, which is passed by five 
locks. 

Travellers will always find it interesting to spend 
some time at this place, in viewing its great natural 
and artificial works. The Aqueduct across the river is 
one of the finest specimens of masonry on the whole 



LITTLE FALLS. 203 

line of the canal, though less stupendous than the locks 
at Lockport, and, in extent, falling considerably short 
of the aqueduct at Rochester. The river is passed on 
three beautiful arches of from 40 to 50 feet in height, 
with flagging on either side of the canal, and a strong 
iron railing. After crossing on the flagging, the stran- 
ger should return on the stone bridge west of the 
aqueduct; which being several feet lower, aftbrds a 
fine view of the arches, and of the extensive basin in 
the river immediately beneath the centre arch, formed, 
doubtless, by the action of round stones set in motion 
by the water. 

The Erie canal, which is on the south side of the 
river, winds its w^ay for some distance along the side of 
a bold and lofty mountain, the channel resting on a 
wall nearly 30 feet high, constructed from the bed of 
the river at great expense. The view afforded of moun- 
tain scenery on either side, with a bare passage for the 
dashing waters of the Mohawk between, is highly in- 
teresting and sublime. Whichever way the eye is 
turned, it rests on huge masses of granite and lime- 
stone, piled in heaps. These rocks in some places rise 
to a great height, almost perpendicular, presenting a 
bleak dark surface, unbleached by the thousand storms 
which have beat upon them ; others present a rugged 
and uneven face, crowned and overhung by dark ever- 
greens, dipping their verdure into the foaming torrent 
below ; the fissures between others of these huge piles 
produce hickory, maple and other trees, which hang 
from them, and with their sombre shadow deepen the 
gloomy darkness of the rocks from which they spring ; 
whilst the scanty soil upon others gives life and penu- 



204 HERKIMER. 

rious nourishment to dwarf oaks and vegetation pecu- 
liar to similar inliospitable regions. In this scene,where 
the rude but magnificent works of nature are so pro- 
fusely displayed, the imagination is overpowered, in 
their sublimity, and the proudest works of man, and 
man himself, lose their importance. Even the canal, 
cut upon the mighty and enduring precipice — the road 
entrenched upon the mountain side, and the substantial 
locks and gotes — all sink into comparative insignif- 
icance under the mighty shadows of the everlasting 
hills. 

The road, after leaving Little Falls follows the bank 
of the river, in full view of the rich alluvial vale called 
the Herkimer and German Flats. This region, now 
glowing in all the beauty of successful cultivation, was 
once the theatre of the most sanguinary warfare. Du- 
ring the French and revolutionary wars, it was the 
scene of many barbarous incursions of the whites as 
well as savages. It was invaded by the French after 
the capture of Fort Oswego in 1756, and in 1757 the 
settlements were desolated by fire and sword. In the 
centre of these flats is situated the village of 

Herkimer, 7 miles from Little Falls. West Canada 
creek, on which are the celebrated Trenton Falls, no- 
ticed in subsequent pages, enters the Mohawk river 
about half a mile east of the village, and is passed near 
its mouth by a well constructed bridge. The village is 
principally built on two parallel streets. It contains 
a handsome court house and jail, about 130 dwel- 
ling houses, and 1000 inhabitants. A dam has been 
thrown across the West Canada creek above Herki- 



UTICA. 205 

mer, and a canal cut therefrom to the river, which is 
tiesiffned for hydraulic purposes. Between Herkimer 
and Utica, on the soutli side of the river, is the village 
of Frankfort, about 5 miles from the former and 9 
from the latter place. The country after leaving Her- 
kimer is quite level, and remarkably fertile, though not 
in a high state of cultivation. 

UTICA. 

This flourishing place is on the south bank of the 
Mohawk river, and occupies the site of old Fort Schuy- 
ler, where, a garrison was kept previous to the revolu- 
tion. Some remains of this fort are still to be seen be- 
tween the eastern extremity of Main street and the riv- 
er. A few Germans vvere settled here previous to the 
revolutionary war ; but a part were captured by the In- 
dians and the remnant sought a place of more security. 
The first permanent settler established himself about 4 
miles west of Fort Schuyler in 1784. Five years after- 
wards a fevv'^ families established themselves on the 
site of the present town. In 1798, a village charter 
was granted ; and in 1832, the place was incorporated 
into a city. In 1813, it contained 1700 inhabitants ; in 
1816, 28-28; in 1820,2372; in 1823, 4017; in 1826, 
6040 ; in 1828, 7400 ; in 1830, 8323 ; and in 1835, about 
S500. The city is regularly laid out, the streets of good 
width, and mostly paved. Genesee street, in particular, 
is peculiarly pleasant, and for the most part adorned 
with elegant stores and dwellings. 

There are numei-ous literary, benevolent and religious 
institutions in this place ; among which are 16 church- 
es, a lyccura, an academy, a gymnasium, high school. 



208 TRENTON FALLS. 

Female Institute, museum, and an institution called the 
Younjj Men's Association, in which there is a library 
and reading room, which are gratuitously opened for 
the use of strangers. There are also 3 banks, an in- 
surance company, and from 6 to 8 newspaper estab- 
lishments. 

The principal Hotels, which are in Genesee street, 
are Bagg's, near the termination of the rail road ; the 
National Hotel, and the Canal Coffee House, near the 
canal ; and the City Hotel and Franklin House, farther 
south. 

The lands adjoining Uticaare richly cultivated, pre- 
senting a succession of beautiful farms and country 
seats. There are also various objects of attraction in 
the vicinity, a visit to which may be ranked among the 
pleasures of an excursion to the west. Of these are 
Trenton Falls, at the north ; and Whitesborough, the 
York Mills, Clinton Village containing Hamilton col- 
lege, and Rome, all within a few miles in a westerly 
direction. 

Two rail roads are now constructing from the city 
w^estwardly — one to Syracuse, about 60 miles, and the 
other to Oswego, on Lake Ontario, about 75 miles dis- 
tant. 

Trenton Falls are 15 miles from the city, and a 
visit thither generally occupies a day. They are on 
the West Canada creek, about 22 miles from its con- 
fluence with the Mohawk river at Herkimer. 

The creek in its way from the summit of the high- 
lands of Black river to its lower valley, crosses a ridge 
of limestone 4 or 5 miles in breadth, stretching through 



TRENTON FALLS. 207 

the country from the Mohawk to the St. Lawrence. 
Its course over this ridge by its tortuous bed is 6 or 7 
miles, 2^ of which are above the falls. The waters, 
soon after reaching the hmestone, move witli acceler- 
ated strides over the naked rocks to the head of the up- 
per fall, where they are precipitated 18 or 20 feet down 
an abrupt ledge into a spacious basin. The whole de- 
scent to the head of this fall in the last 2 miles is com- 
puted at 60 feet. Here a deep and winding ravine be- 
gins, which extends down the stream more than 2 
miles. Its average depth is estimated at 100 feet, and 
its average breadth at the top, 200. The sides and 
bottom consist of limestone disposed in horizontal lay- 
ers, which abound with organic remains. The sides 
are shelving, perpendicular and overhanging ; and 
some of the trees that have taken root in the fissures of 
the rocks are pendant over the abyss, where they form 
the most fanciful appearances imaginable. The coun- 
try adjoining is mostly covered with forest trees, so that 
no appearance of the ravine is visible until its verge is 
reached. Of the six falls, that above the high bridge 
on the Black river road is called the Upper ; the second, 
a mile below, the Cascades ; the third, a little loAver 
down, the Mill-dam; the fourth, 40 rods farther, tho 
High Falls ; the fifth, about 70 rods further, Sher- 
man's ; and the sixth, at the termination of the ravine, 
Conrad's Fall. All these arc formed by solid reefs of 
rocks which cross the bed of the stream. 

The water at the Upper Fall descends IS or 20 feet 
perpendicularly. Below, there is a spacious basin, 
out of which the stream issues in a diminished bed in- 
to the ravine, the entrance of which is between lofly 



20S TRENTON FALLS. 

barriers of rocks. This fall, when viewed from the 
bridge, or from the high ground west of the creek, has 
a fine appearance. 

At the Cascades, consisting of 2 pitches, with in- 
tervening rapids, the water falls 18 feet. The bed of 
the stream is here contracted, and the sides serrated, 
the banks of the ravine rising with abruptness almost 
directly in the rear. 

The Mill-dam Fall, which is the second within the 
ravine, has an abrupt descent of 14 feet, the stream be- 
ing about 60 yards broad at the break. 

Of the High Falls, which are three in number, the 
first has a perpendicular descent of 48 feet ; in floods 
the water covers the whole break and descends in one 
sheet ; but at other times, mostly in two grooves at the 
west side of the fall. The second has a descent of 
about 11 feet ; the third 37 feet ; and the three, includ- 
ing the slopes and" pitches, 109 feet. In fi-eshets and 
floods, the entire bed at the High Falls is covered with 
water of a milk white color, and the spray which at 
such times ascends in pillars towards the sky, when 
acted upon by the rays of the sun, exhibits the rainbow 
in all its brilliant colors. 

Sherman's Fall descends about 33 feet when the 
stream is low, and 37 when high. In droughts, the 
water pitches down at the west side. 

The last fall, which is at Conrad's mills, at the foot 
of the ravine, is 6 feet. 

Besides the falls, there are several raceways or 
chutes, from 10 to 20 rods long, through which the 
waters pass with great rapidity. The whole depres- 
sion of the stream from the top of the Upper Fall above 



TRENTON FALLS, 209 

the high bridge to the foot of Conrad's, is 312 feet ; 
and if we add the descent above the Upper Fall, which 
is computed to be 60 feet, and that below Conrad's fall 
in half a mile, which is estimated at 15 feet, we shall 
find that the entire depression in less than 5 miles, is 
387 feet. 

The falls, raceways and rapids, and, indeed, the 
whole bed within the ravine, exhibit very different ap- 
pearances at different times. These are occasioned by 
the elevations and depressions of the stream. In floods, 
the whole is one tremendous rapid, with four cataracts 
and several chutes. 

The best tune to visit these falls is when the stream 
is low, because then there is no inconvenience or diffi- 
culty in ascending the ravine from the foot of Sher- 
man's stairway to the head of the upper raceway. 
Few persons who visit them have resolution to ascend 
the ravine from the stairway to the basin at the upper 
fall. This, however, is not to be wondered at, because 
the lofty rocky barriers which constitute the sides of 
the ravine advance to the water's edge in many places, 
and terminate in frightful projections, which cannot be 
passed without the most imminent danger. Some of 
these difficulties, however, have been obviated by blast- 
ing away portions of the rocks and putting up chains ; 
and persons now go up to the upper raceway without 
hazard. 

A fine hotel is kept near the falls, from whence a 
pathway leads to the stairway, which descends to the 
bottom of the ravine, and another leads up to the High 
Falls. The former is usually preferred. On reaching 
the strand, at the foot of the stairway, you proceed up 



210 TRENTON FALLS. 

the stream at first upon the strand, and then by a nar- 
row winding foot path to Sherman's fall. From thence 
you advance to the High Falls, a part of the way being 
overhung by large jutting rocks which menace you 
with destruction. From the head of the High Falls to 
the uppper end of the raceway above the Cascades, the 
way Is easy when the stream is low, but from thence 
upvrardly it is difficult and dangerous. 

While you are passing along the narrov^' and sinu- 
ous path leading by the projections, and by the brinks 
of headlong precipices, you tremble with reverential 
awe, when you consider that one false step might pre- 
cipitate you into the resistless torrent below, and in an 
instant consign you to a watery grave. You see what 
a feeble creature man is, and are forcibly impressed 
with ideas of the v/isdom and power of that mighty Be- 
ing who commanded the earth to emerge from the deep 
and the waters to flow. 

The organic remains are found enveloped in the 
rocks along the bottom and lower parts of the ravine, 
and are easily divisible. They lie flat in or between 
the laminge, their contours and component parts usual- 
ly being little distorted from their original shape and 
dimensions. Sometimes there is a defect occasioned in 
the transition from the animal to the stony or fossil 
state ; but, in most instances, all the parts are so com- 
pletely defined, that not only the order but the genera 
and species may be recognized. Their exteriors are 
commonly glossy, often very smooth, and ordinarily of 
a dark color, being transformed into stone, and consti- 
tuting integral parts of the rocks which envelope them. 
From a careful examination of certain of these remains. 



STAGE ROUTE — VERNON. 211 

and their positions, we are led to believe that their pro- 
totypes lived and died on the spot, and that the rocks 
in which they are entombed are of posterior formation. 

Ladies visiting the Falls, should be furnished with 
calf skin shoes or bootees. They not only owe it to 
their health to be thus provided, but the best pair of 
cloth shoes will be ruined by a single excursion over 
these rocks. 

Returning to Utica, the traveller, in pursuing a jour- 
ney to the west by stage, first reaches the pleasant 
village of 

New-Hartford, 4 miles from Utica, containing 
about 150 dwellings and stores, and three churches, be- 
sides a number of mills and manufactories, located on 
the Sadaquada creek. The land between Utica and 
New-Hartford is level and of an excellent quality, and 
resembles, with its neat and regular enclosures, an ex- 
tensive and highly cultivated garden. There are in tho 
vicinity many country residences, constructed and im- 
proved with much taste and elegance. 

One mile from New-Hartford, a tolerably good view 
of Hamilton college, 3 or 4 miles distant at the S. W. 
is obtained ; but on ascending a more elevated posi- 
tion one mile farther, the prospect of the college and 
several adjoining buildings, is very distinct and beau- 
itful. 

Manchester is 5 miles from New-Hartford j and 
the country between the two villages exhibits some of 
the most highly cultivated and delightful farms in the 
state. 

Vernon, 8 miles from Manchester, is a flourishing 

T 



212 STAGE ROUTE — CHITTENINGO. 

town of some magnitude. It contains two churches, a 
number of mills and a glass factory. 

Oneida Castle, 5 miles from Vernon, is situated 
on the Oneida creek, within what was formerly the 
Oneida Reservation. Here vv'as a considerable settle- 
ment, possescd by the Oneida and Tuscarora Indi- 
ans ; most of whom have removed to the country west 
of the Michigan lake. This tribe entered the service 
of the state, as volunteers, during the late war. 

The lands in this reservation while possessed by the 
Indians vrere but indifferently cultivated, and assumed 
a miserable aspect in comparison with the rich and 
hi<yhiy impoved farms on either side. But they are 
nov\' yielding to the culture of the whites, and will ulti- 
mately present a succession of beautiful and luxuriant 
farms. In passing over an elevated tract, a chain of 
lofty mountains is seen skirting the horizon, at the 
north, as far as the eye can extend ; between which 
and the tract in question, are seen immense and appa- 
rently impenetrable forests. 

Lenox, a small village, is 3 miles from Oneida Cas- 
tle. One mile farther the flourishing village of Canas- 
TOTA is seen about half a mile north of the turnpike 
on an extensive plain below, with the Erie canal pass- 
ing through it. 

duALiTY Hill, a neat little village on a pleasant 
eminence, is 3 miles from Lenox ; and 5 miles farther 
is the village of 

Chitteningo, situated on a creek of that name, and 
from which a feeder, l| mile long, is constructed to the 



STAGE ROUTE — MANLIUS. 213 

canal. The village is bounded by very lofty hills, and 
cannot be considered a happy location, except for man- 
ufacturing purposes. Gypsum is here found in great 
quantities ; also numerous petrifactions, specimens of 
which are in most of the mineralogical cabinets in the 
Union. These petrifactions are near the village at the 
foot of a hill, and consist of the trunk of a tree and 
scattered fragments, the woody structure of which in 
most cases, is remarkably perfect, and bearing a strong 
resemblance to the original. Various springs of wa- 
ter issue from the sides of the hill, which exhibit nu- 
merous incrustations (calcareous tufa) along its slope 
and in the vale below. To the properties of these wa- 
ters may be attributed the formation of these incrusta- 
tions and petrifactions. 

At Chitteningo, the road diverges, forming two prom- 
inent routes to Auburn ; one passing through the vil- 
lages of Manlius, Onondaga Hollow, Onondaga 
Hill, Marcellus and Skaneateles, and the other 
passing through the village of Syracuse, noticed in the 
canal route. The first mentioned route, though over a 
less even country, is generally preferred, if the tourist 
designs to return by way of the canal, and thus take 
Syracuse in his excursion. Four miles from Chitten- 
ingo, on the road to Manlius, is an eminence from 
vv'hich a beavstiful prospect is obtained of a part of Onei- 
da Lake and a wide extent of hilly country beyond, 
Onondaga Lake, and the village of Onondaga Hill, 15 
miles distant. Four miles further is the ilourishing 
village of 

Manlius, situated on the east side of Limestone 
creek, containing about 150 houses, 3 churches, 2 cot- 



214 STAGE ROUTE — MARCELLUS. 

ton factories, mills, &c. There are in the vicinity two 
considerable falls, the principal of which is 100 feet in 
height. 

Jamesville is 6 miles from Manlius. Green Pond 
in this vicinity is worthy of notice. The water is 200 
feet deep, and of a deep green color, emitting a strong 
smell of sulphur. The surface of the pond is between 
100 and 200 feet below the level of its shores, which 
are precipitous and rocky. Four miles farther is the 
village of 

Onondaga Hollow, extending 1 mile across a deep 
but beautiful valley, through which the Onondaga creek 
passes. The village contains an academy, church, &c.; 
but its business has declined since the opening of the 
canal, and the springing up of the village of Syracuse, 
which is 4 miles distant. Three miles south of Onon- 
daga Hollow is a considerable settlement of Onondaga 
Indians, where once was held the grand councils of the 
Six Kations. 

Onondaga Hill, 2 miles farther, is pleasantly situa- 
ted on very high ground, with a commanding view of 
the country to the north and east for a considerable dis- 
tance, embracing within the prospect the Onondaga 
Lake and the villages of Syracuse, Salina and Liver- 
pooL 

Marcelltjs, 8 miles from Onondaga Hill, is a neat 
village of 70 or 80 houses, situated in the valley of the 
Otisco creek. Two miles north are falls of some 60 or 
70 feet affording facilities for a variety of manufactories ; 
near which, water lime or cement is found in inexhaust- 



STAGE ROUTE — SKANEATELES. 215 

ible quantities. There is also lying on the bank of the 
creek at this place a petrified tree of large dimensions, 
partly covered with limestone. 

Skaneateles, 6 miles from Marcellus, is situated at 
the foot of the Skaneateles Lake, and is a beautiful 
thriving village, containing about 2GG0 inliabitants, 4 
churches and a flourishing academy, a varieJy of man- 
ufactories, mills and many elegant private dwellings. 
It enjoys a commanding view of the lake for 6 or S 
miles above and of the surrounding country, which ri- 
ses in a gentle acclivity from the water 100 feet or more 
in the course of a mile, presenting a range of neat white 
farm houses on the summit, and a slope of highly cul- 
tivated country tov/ards the lake on each side. The 
lake, which is 16 miles long and from half a mile to 
two miles in width, abounds with fine trout and other 
fish. The water is deep and remarkably pure, with a 
gravelly bottom and bold shores. The prospect from 
the lake is higldy interesting, particularly tov/ards its 
head, where the country rises abruptly several hundred 
feet, presenting a miniature picture of mountain scene- 
ry. Under these bluffs on the east side and on a level 
with the Vvater are found large quantities of petrifac- 
tionSjthe cornu ammonite,imbedded in a stratum of slate. 
Three miles north of the village, the Skaneateles creek 
falls ever a bed of rocks, about 70 feet in a short dis- 
tance ; but in low water, the v/hcle is lost or sinks 
among the rocks, and only a part of it again appears at 
a distance of half a mile below, presenting the novel 
spectacle of a river much larger at its fountain than at 
its mouth. A rail road 4^ miles long, is about being 
t2 



216 STAGE ROUTE — AUBURN. 

constructed from the villanre to connect with the Au- 
burn and Syracuse rail road. Seven miles from Slian- 
eateles stands tlie flourishing village of 

Auburn. It is situated on the Owasco creek, tvro 
miles below its outlet from the lake of the same name. 
This village owes much of its importance to the numer- 
ous mills and manufactories for which its location is 
extremely eligible. It contains about 850 houses and 
5500 inhabitants. Among other pubUc buildings there 
are seven churches, an academy, museum, a court house 
and gaol, and a prison erected for convicts at the ex- 
pense of the state. There has also been established 
a theological seminary, which is patronized exclusively 
by the Presbyterian denomination, and is at present 
the only one of the kind in the state. Many circum- 
stances combine to render this place an agreeable resi- 
dence to the man of taste or business. Tiie village is 
handsomely built, and increases annually in population 
and wealth. It is situated 7 miles from Weed's 
Port, on the canal, to which place stages run daily, for 
the accommodation of passengers wishing to take 
packet boats for the west or east. 

The principal public houses are the American Hotel, 
Western Exchange and Bank Coffee House. 

The State Prison, at Auburn, is considered one of 
the best in the Union. It was commenced in 1816, and 
is constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, en- 
closed by a wall 2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet on 
each side. The front of the prison, including the keep- 
er's dwelUng, is about 300 feet, and the two wings ex- 
tending west, are 240 feet each. The north wing con- 



STAGE ROUTE — AUBURK. 217 

tains solitary cells and a hospital, and the south wing 
is divided principally into ceils. Between the two 
wings is a grass plot with gravel walks ; to the west 
of which is the interior yard, covered with gravel, 
containing reservoirs of water, and surrounded with 
workshops. These shops, besides the paint shop, 
form a continued range of 900 feet ; and are well light- 
ed by windows in the sides and from the roof. They 
are built of brick, and are well secured against fire. 
The outer walls, against which the shops are built, are 
35 feet high on the inside, and the other walls about 
20. They are four feet thick, and the walls of the pris- 
on 3 feet. The expense of the whole, without includ- 
ing the labor of the convicts employed, was above $300,- 
000. The prison being erected on the bank of the 
Owasco, water power is applied in many cases, to great 
advantage, in propelling machinery. 

The most interesting period for witnessing the pris- 
oners is early in the morning, from the time they are 
brought forth to labor till after breakfast. The spec- 
tator will then have an opportunity of seeing some of 
the prominent features of the order, regularity and 
system with which every thing is conducted. He will 
admire the precision with which the rules are execu- 
ted, without the least confusion, noise, or even com- 
mand. The convicts silently marching to and from 
their rest, meals and labor, at precise times, moving in 
separate corps, in single file, with a slow lock step, 
erect posture, keeping exact time, with their faces in- 
clined towards their keepers, (that they may detect con- 
versation, of which none is ever permitted,) all give to 
the spectator somewhat similar feelings to those excited 



218 STAGE ROUTE — CaTUGA. 

by a military funeral ; and to the convicts, impressions 
not entirely dissimilar to those of culprits when march- 
ing to the gallows. The same silence, solemnity and 
order, in a good degree, pervades every business and 
department. 

In addition to divine service in the chapel of the pris- 
on every Sabbath, a Sunday school has been establish- 
ed, superintended by the students of the theological 
seminary, which has been attended with very beneficial 
effects. 

So admirable has been the discipline of this prison, 
that a large proportion of the convicts discharged have 
become honest, industrious men, and none are known 
to have become corrupted or made worse. 

The Auburn and Syracuse Rail Road commences 
at this place, and extends to Syracuse, a distance of 22 
miles. It will probably be finished the present season, 
(1837.) 

Cayuga, 7 miles west of Auburn, is a small village; 
but affords a beautiful prospect of the Cayuga lake, 
and the bridge cxLcnoing across, v/hicli is one mile and 
eight rods long, and situate within 2 miles of the outlet. 
This lake is 33 miles in length, and is generally from 
1 to 2 miles in breadth. The water is shallow, but 
of sufScient depth for a good sized sleam-boat, which 
plies daily between the bridge and Ithica, a beautiful 
and thriving village, at the head of the lake, 3G miles 
distant. Travellers designing to take an excursion on 
this lake to Ithica, sliould pay for stage fare no farther 
than the Cayuga Bridge. From this point they can 
take the steam-boat at 1 o'clock P. M. which reaches 



STAGE ROUTE — WATEULOO. 219 

Ilhica in between three and four hours ; where the best 
of accommodations will be found at one of the largest 
public houses in the state. Passing the night at Ithica, 
the daily stage can be taken the next morning, after 
breakfast, for Bath, at the head of the Seneca lake, 
distant about 22 miles, which reaches the latter place 
in time for the steam-boat which leaves at noon for 
Geneva, noticed in a subsequent page; and thus the 
tour of both lakes be performed, and a full view of their 
rich scenery had in the short space of thirty hours. 

Seneca Falls, four miles west of Cayuga, is a flour- 
ishing village, located on the banks of the Seneca river, 
%vhich here falls 46 feet, aifording important manufac- 
turing facilities. The village has attained a very rapid 
growth within the last 5 or 6 years. It contained in 
1836, 450 dwelling houses, 5 churches, a number of 
flouring mills, and about 4000 inhabitants. In addition 
to its manufacturing privileges, a canal extends to the 
Erie canal at Lakeport, 20 miles distant, which, con- 
nected with the river at the village, affords an uninter- 
rupted v/ater communication from Geneva to the west- 
ern lakes and the ocean. Four miles farther, is the 
handsome village of 

Waterloo, a half shire town in Seneca county. It 
contains about 300 houses, a court house, jail, and 2 
printing offices. The village is principally situate on 
the northern bank of the Seneca outlet ; which here 
propels several mills. The commencement of this vil- 
lage was in 1816 ; since which it has become a place of 
very considerable importance ; though it is probably 



220 STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA. 

destined to yield in magnitude and business to its rival 
village at Seneca Falls. From Waterloo to 

Geneva, 7 miles distant, the route is delightful, em- 
bracing (a part of the way) a charming ride around the 
north end of the Seneca lake, which is here about two 
miles wide. The village is one of the most elegant in 
the state ; and, v/itli its beautiful scenery, cannot fail 
of calling forth the admiration of every visitant. It is 
situate on the western margin of the lake, the bank of 
which being lofty, affords an enchanting view of one of 
the purest sheets of water in America. The number of 
private and public buildings in the place is about GOO, 
many of which are very handsome, and the population 
about 3000. Among the public buildings are a col- 
ileg-e, an academy, S churches and a bank. The college 
is located on an eminence south of the village, on the 
margin of the lake, in the vicinity of several country 
seats, enjoying an unusual richness of prospect, with 
an almost constant breeze from the water. The lake 
is about 35 miles long, and from 3 to 4 miles wide. It 
abounds with salmon, trout and other fish, and is never 
closed with ice. A steam-boat runs daily from Geneva 
to Jeffersonville, at the head of the lake, leaving the 
former place at 7 A.M., and returning at evening.* 

* A passage on the lake is peculiarly delightful and 
interesting. Leaving Geneva with itc neat stores, and 
elegant dwellings, its luxuriant hanging gardens, and 
the glittering spires of its churches and college, the eye 
takes in a southern water view not surpassed in any 
part of this world of inland seas. The first village of 
any note on the eastern shore is Ovid, 18 miles from 
Geneva. The lofty eminence on which it stands, and 



STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA. 221 

The Genesee turnpike leads thronrrh Geneva, and the 
Erie canal passes about 12 miles to the north of it ; with 
which there is a water communication, by means of 
the outlet of the Seneca lake and a lateral canal, no- 
ticed at p. 232. 

the rich and highly cultivated farms in its vicinity, ren- 
der it a most conspicuous and interesting object. Di- 
rectly opposite to Ovid is Dresden, one of the most 
thriving villages in Yates county. It is situated on the 
outlet of Crooked Lake, and extends nearly a mile back 
of the shore. Immediately south of Dresden, is the 
fixrm of the late celebrated Jemima Wilkinson, an en- 
thusiast, who pretended that she was the Saviour of 
mankind. Until her death, which took place some 
years since, she had several followers ; and this farm, 
which is very beautiful, has passed by will into the 
hands of one of them. Four miles south of Dresden is 
Long Point, remarkable for a tree at its extremity, 
which, by a little aid from the imagination, puts on the 
semblance of an Elephant. Six miles south of Long 
Point is Rapelyea's ferry, near which is still standing 
the frame which Jemima constructed to try the faith 
of her followers. Having approached within a few 
hundred yards of the lake shore, she alighted from an 
elegant carriage, and the road being strewed by her 
followers with white handkerchiefs, she walked to the 
platform, and having announced her intention of walk- 
ing across ths lake on the water, she stepped ankle deep 
into the clear element, when suddenly pausing, she ad- 
dressed the multitude, inquiring whether or not they 
had faith that she could pass over : for if otherv/ise, she 
could not ; and on receiving an affirmative answer, re- 
turned to her carriage, declaring that as they believed 
in her power, it was unnecessary to display it. Six 
miles and a half south of Rapelyea's ferry, is Starkie's 
Point, where the shore is so bold that the steam-boat 
passes within 10 feet of the extremity of the Point. 
Four miles further on the Avest shore is the Big Stream 



222 STAGE ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 

Canandaigua, 15 miles from Geneva. This vil- 
lage is situated near the outlet of the lake from which 
it takes its name, on a gentle ascent commanding a 
fine view of the lake at the distance of half a mile. 
The principal street extends 2 miles in length, and is 
handsomely decorated with trees, through which ap- 
pear the delicately painted dwellings, ornamented with 
Venetian blinds. In an open square, in the centre of 
the village, is the court house, prison, and clerk's office 
of the county, the town house and Eagle hotel. The 
Episcopal church, situate on the main street, is one of 
the most elegantly constructed buildings in the state. 
There are also three other churches, two of which are 
neatly constructed ; a male and female academy, a 
bank, and about 500 dwellings. In the vicinity are a 
number of delightful villas, surrounded with gardens 
and orchards of various kinds of fruit, which, with the 
view of the lake stretching far to the south, beautifully 
set off the scene of enchantment. In richness and va- 
riety of natural scenery, and the taste and elegance of 
its edifices, few villages can compare with Canandai- 

Point, at which there is a mill seat with a fall of 1 36 
feet. The land puts on a wilder aspect as the tourist 
approaches the head of the lake, and the eminences are 
more beetling and precipitous. The eastern shore also 
partakes more of the mountainous character, though 
cultivated far up the summit lands, and is here and 
there marked by ravines, through one of which " Hec- 
tor Falls" tumble from a height of one hundred and 
fifty feet, and carry several valuable mills. These falls 
are distant three miles from the village of Jeffersonville, 
at the head of the lake, which has recently sprung into 
existence, and which will soon become an important in- 
land town. 



STJiGE ROUTE CAXANDAIGUA. 223 

gua. In point of trade and wealth, too, it is not exceed- 
ed by many villages in the state. A steam mill is here 
in operation, which annually furnishes a very large 
supply of flour. On the lake, which is 14 miles lono-, 
and from one to two in breadth, a steam-boat performs 
a daily trip, which is rendered unusually interesting 
from the varied scenery which is presented. The vil- 
lage is situated 203 miles from Albany ; from Utica, 
114; from Buffalo, 89 ; A-om Niagara Falls, 109. Prin- 
cipal public houses, Blossom's Hotel (one of the best 
in the western district) and Pitt's Eagle Tavern. 

Canandaigua was one of the first towns settled in 
what was formerly called the "Genesee country." The 
entire tract, containing six millions of acres, was pur- 
chased of Massachusetts by Oliver Phelps and Nathan- 
iel Gorham, in 1787, for $1,000,000; and Phelps, then 
living at Gransvill, in that state, made preparations the 
spring following with men and means to explore the 
country thus acquired. With great resolution and in- 
trepidity, he took leave of his family and his neighbors, 
together with the minister of the parish, who assem- 
bled 'on the occasion, and started on his expedition, 
leaving them all in tears, bidding him a final adieu, 
scarcely hoping for his return from a wilderness, in the 
Indian country, hardly yet pacified. 

He persevered, and penetrated the forest from the 
German Flats to Canandaigua, a distance of 128 miles, 
by the present improved road — sent out runners, and 
collected the Sachems, Chiefs, and Warriors of the Six 
Nations, and in July 1788, with the aid of the Rev. 
Samuel Kirtland, as State Commissioner and Indian 
Missionary, concluded a treaty of purchase of a tract 
u 



224 



STAGE ROUTE — CANANDAIGUi. 



containing 2^ millions of acres. The Indians were dis- 
posed to confine Mr. Phelps to the Genesee river as his 
western boundary. He however proposed the erection 
of mills at the falls of the river, (now Rochester,) and 
obtained of them in the purchase what v/as termed a 
■mill yard, embracing a tract of 12 by 24 miles, extend- 
ing 12 miles west of Rochester, and north to Lake On- 
tario, 

The kindness of Mr. Phelps, and the good faith 
always observed by him towards the Indians, induc^ 
cd them to adopt him and his son as honorary mem- 
bers of their national councils. The leading chiefs 
concerned in these negotiations, were Farmer's Broth- 
er and Red Jacket, the latter of whom died near Buffalo 
in 1S29. 

In ] 789, the lands thus purchased, having been divi- 
ded into ranges, Phelps opened a land office at Canan- 
daigua, the first established in America, where he 
continued to make sales until the year following, 
when the balance of the tract to which the Indian title 
had been extinguised, being 1,264,000 acres, was sold 
to Robert Morris, for eight pence, lawful money, per 
acre, who sold the same to Sir William Pultncy, oi 
England. 

Gorham and Phelps not being able to pay the whole 
purchase money, compromised and surrendered to Mas- 
sachusetts tliat part of the land to which the Indian title 
remained unextinguished, being about two-thirds of the 
western part of it; and in 1796, Morris purchased of 
Massachusetts the tract thus surrendered, extinguish- 
ed the Indian title, sold out several tracts to different 
persons, and mortgaged the residue to William Wil- 



BURNING SPRINGS. 225 

link and others, of Amsterdam, called the Holland 
Company — under the foreclosure of which mortgage 
the company acquired the full title to their large tract, 
surveyed it into ranges and townships, after the man- 
ner of Oliver Phelps, and in ISOl opened a land ofiico 
at Batavia, under the agency of Joseph EUicot, for the 
sale thereof. 

Oliver Phelps, Esq. grandson of the original propri- 
etor, is the owner, and resides on the premises of his 
ancestor in Canandaigua. 

Burning Springs. From 8 to 10 miles, in a south- 
westerly direction from Canandaigua, are found several 
springs, charged with inflammable gas. They arc 
found in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua. The 
former are situated in a ravine on the v/est side of 
Bristol Hollow, about half a mile from the North Pres- 
byterian meeting house. The ravine is formed in clay 
slate, and a small brook runs through it. The gas 
rises through fissures of the slate, from both the margin 
and the bed of the brook. Where it rises through the 
water, it is formed into bubbles, and flashes only when 
the flame is applied ; but where it rises directly from 
the rock, it burns with a steady and beautiful flame, 
which continues until extinguished by storms, or by 
design. 

The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to 
two miles south-westerly from the village of Rushville, 
along a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at the bot- 
tom of the valley called Federal Hollo v/, and partly at 
an elevation of 40 or 50 feet on the south side of it. 
The latter have been discovered within a few years, 



S26 



BURNING SPRINGS. 



in a field which had been long cleared, and are very nu- 
merous. Their places are known by litlle hillocks of a 
few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of 
dark bituminous mould, v/hich seems principally to 
have been deposited by the gas, and through which it 
finds its way to the surface, in one or more currents. 
These currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn 
with a steady fiame. In winter they form openings 
through the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the 
novel and interestingphenomenonof a steady and lively 
flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold 
weather, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these 
currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the va- 
por contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height 
of two or three feet, the gas issuing from their tops; 
the whole when hghted in a still evening presenting an 
appearance even more beautiful than the former. 

Experiments made v/ith the gas seem to prove, that 
it consists principally of a mixture of the light and heavy 
carburettcd hydrogen gases, the former having greatly 
the preponderance ; and that it contains a small pro- 
portion of carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a 
little oily or bituminous matter in solution. It burns 
with a lambent, yellowish fiame, scarcely inclining to 
red, with small scintillations of a bright red at its base. 
It has the odour of pit coal. It produces no smoke, 
but deposits, while burning, a small quantity of bitu- 
minous lampblack. It is remarkable that the hillocks, 
through which the gas rises, are totally destitute of 
vegetation. Whether the gas is directly deleterious to 
vegetable life, or indirectly, by interrupting the contact 



STAGE ROUTE — EAST AVON. 227 

of the air of the atmosphere, it is certain that no plant 
can sustain hfe within the circle of its influence. 

From Canandaigua stages may be taken for Roches- 
ter, (see " Canal Route,") distant 27 miles in a north- 
westerly direction, and the route continued from thence 
to the Falls by stage or canal, or to Buffalo, via the 
Tonewanta rail road, noticed at p. 229 ; but if a visit 
to Montreal, by the way of Lake Ontario, is not con- 
templated, it is generally deemed a better course to 
proceed directly to Buffalo and the Falls, and return by 
the way of Rochester. In pursuing the usual route 
from Canandaigua to Buffalo, 

East Bloomfield is reached in travelling 9 miles, 
and West BLooiviFiELoin going 5 miles farther. They 
are considered among the richest agricultural town- 
ships in the state ; presenting a succession of beautiful 
and highly cultivated farms. The fruit raised on these 
lands, particularly apples and peaches, is not excelled 
in any section of the country. 

Lima is 4 miles from West Bloomfield, and is a con- 
tinuation of the same rich and fertile soil, divided into 
higlily improved and productive farms. 

East Avon is 5, and Avon Post Office 7 miles 
from Lima. The Genesee river passes through the 
town of Avon, and is navigable for boats to the Erie 
canal at Rochester, 20 miles distant, with which it is 
connected by a feeder. The alluvial flats are very ex- 
tensive and fertile ; and the uplands are well watered 
by small streams and springs. A remarkable bulbous 
root grows on the Genesee flats in this town. It is 
from 3 to 4 feet in length, from 6 to 8 inches in diame- 
u2 



228 STAGE ROUTE — LE ROT. 

ter, and assumes the external appearance of a log in 
the earth. A small creeping vine like that of the straw- 
berry, proceeds from the root ; and its natural vegeta- 
ble productions are almost infinitely various. 

The Avon Spring is becoming a place of considera- 
ble resort for invalids. Its waters, v/hich are strongly 
impregnated with sulphur and alum, are found benefi- 
cial in various diseases. The tourist will generally find 
himself amply compensated by spending a day at this 
place. 

Caledonia, 8 miles from Avon Post Oftice, is more 
particularly celebrated as the location of a large Springy 
than for any thing else. The stage usually stops at 
the village long enough to enable passengers to visit 
this natural curiosity, which is situate a few rods nortli 
of the principal street. Within a small area, sufficient 
water rises to propel a mill, (of v/hich there are several 
on the stream belov.',) at all seasons of the year. The 
water is pure and appears to rise from a rocky bottom. 
A stage runs daily from this place to Rochester, which 
is 20 miles distant — a part of the route being along the 
bank of the Genesee river. 

Pursuing the direct route from Caledonia to Buffalo, 
the ne?vt place of importance is the pleasant and thriv- 
ing village of 

Lerot, which is 6 miles v/est of Caledonia, and 17 
miles south of the Erie canal. Allen's creek, which 
passes through the village, affords im.portant mill privi- 
leges, and contributes much to the value and business 
of the place. The village contains 4 churches, 250 
dwellings, 2 large flouring mills and several manufac- 



STAGE ROUTE — BATAVIA. 229 

lories. At this place the creek has a fall of 18 feet ; a 
mile farther, one of 27 feet; and about a mile farther, 
one of 80 feet. Before reaching the latter, however, 
the stream is much diminished — supplying, as is sup- 
posed, the Caledonia spring, already noticed, Nume- 
Tous petrifactions have been found in the bed of the 
creek, about 200 yards north of the village bridge ; 
among which are petrified turtles, weighing from 10 to 
300 pounds. They are composed principally of dark 
coloured bituminous limestone, which is easily split, 
and often discovers ciystalline veins, together with yel- 
low clay or ochre. The mineralogist will find much 
here to gi*atify his taste and reward his researches. 
The delightful appearance of the village, also, with its 
charming location on an eminence, will often induce 
the traveller to make it a temporary resting place from 
the fatigues of a journey. 

Batavia is 10 miles from Le Roy. It is the capital 
of Genesee county ; and assumes more the appearance 
of one of the early settled villages in ITevv-England, 
than the more flourishing villages of the west. It is 
situated on the north side of the Tonewanta creek, on 
an extensive plain, and has several handsome private 
mansions. Besides the court house and jail, it contains 
a bank, the Holland Company's land ofEce, and about 
300 dwellings. The Tonewanta rail road, leading from 
Rochester, terminates at this place ; and one extend- 
ing to Buffalo, 40 miles farther, is soon to be con- 
structed. 

This village has become somewhat celebrated as the 
theatre of events connected with the masonic fraternitv. 



230 ERIE CANAL. 

It was the residence of the noted William Morga^i, 
previous to his abduction ; and from one of its printing 
offices was first issued what has been denominated the 
secrets of masonry. The excitement produced for a 
time in the village, and in other sections of the country, 
was of a nature the most rancorous and intolerant, 
and unworthy the character of an enlightened people. 
Illiberal feelings, however, have in a measure given 
place to reason and a prevailing disposition to establish 
peace and good order. 

After leaving Batavia for Buffalo, the country soon 
assumes a less populous appearance ; and the travel- 
ling is rendered unpleasant from the extensive cause- 
ways which intervene, consisting of logs placed trans- 
versely in the road. This, however, will be obviated 
whenever the rail road is finished. 

The intervening places between Batavia and Buffalo 
are Pembroke, 14 miles — Clarence, 8 — Williamsvillc, 
8 — from which to Buffalo is 10 miles. [For a descrip- 
tion of the latter place, see " Canal Route."] 

ERIE CANAL. 

This magnificent structure was commenced under 
the patronage of the state, on the 4th of July, 1817, 
and was completed in 1825, uniting the waters of the 
Erie and Hudson, at an expense, including interest up- 
on loans, of $10,731,594 ; of which sum, however, 
there was of outstanding debt, only $7,737,770. The 
canal, beginning at Albany on the Hudson, passes up 
the west bank of the river nearly to the mouth of the 
Mohawk ; thence along the bank of the Mohawk to 
Schenectady, crossing the river twice by aqueducts. 



EUJE CANAL. 231 

From Schenectady it fallows the soiith bank of thia 
Mohawk until it reaches Rome. In some places it en- 
croaches -so near as to require embankments made up 
from the river to support it. An embankment of this 
description, at Amsternam village, is 5 or 6 miles in 
extent. What is called the long level, being a distance 
of 6S§ miles without an intervening lock, commences 
in the town of Frankfort, about 8 miles east of Utica, 
and terminates three fourths of a mile east of Syra- 
cuse ; from thence the route proceeds 35 miles to Lake 
Port, situated on the east border of the Cayuga marsh- 
es, 3 miles in extent, over which to the great embank- 
ment, 72 feet in height and near 2 miles in length, is a 
distance of 52 miles; thence Sh miles to the commence- 
ment of the Genesee level, extending westward to 
Lockport, nearly parallel v*-ith tlie ridge road, 65 milce. 
vSeven miles from thence to Pendleton village the canal 
enters Tonev/anta creek, which it follows 12 miles, 
and thence following the east side of the Niagara river, 
communicates v,ith Lake Erie at Buffalo. The whole 
line of the canal from Albany to Buffalo is 383 miles 
in lengtk It is 40 feet wide at the top, 28 at the bot- 
tom, and the water flows at the depth of 4 feet in a 
moderate descent of half an inch in a mile.-^ I'he tow 



* By recent acts of the legislature, the canal com- 
missioners have been authorized to increase the dimen- 
sions of the canal to a width of 60 or 70 feet, and to a. 
depth of 6 feet ; and to double the locks ; the cost of 
which will not be less than 12 or $15,000,000. A por- 
tion of the work is already commenced, especially on 
the eastern division, together with a new aqueduct over 
l}^e Genesee river at Rochester. 



232 ERIE CA^^AL. 

}3ath is elevated about 4 feet from the surface of the 
water, and is 10 feet wide. The whole length of the 
canal includes 83 locks and 18 aqueducts of various 
extent. The locks are constructed in the most durable 
manner of stone laid in water lime, and are 90 feet in 
length and 15 feet in width. The whole rise and fall 
of lockage is 688 feet, and the height of Lake Erie 
above the Hudson 563 feet. The principal aqueducts 
are, one crossing the Genesee river at Rochester, 804 
feet in length ; one crossing the Mohawk at Little 
Falls, supported by 3 arches, the centre of 70 feet, and 
those on each side of 50 feet chord ; and two crossing 
the Mohawk river near Alexander's bridge, one of 
which is 748 feet and the other 1188 feet in length. 
The whole workmanship evinces a degree of beauty 
and proportion consistent with the greatest strength. 
In many places the sides of the canal are either paved 
with small stones or covered with thick grass, designed 
to prevent the crumbling of the soil by the motion of 
the water. To the main canal are a number of side 
cuts or lateral canals : one opposite Troy, connecting 
with the Hudson ; one at Utica to Binghampton (the 
Chenango canal) 97 miles long; one at Syracuse, a 
mile and a half in length, to Salina ; one from Syaacuse 
to Oswego, 38 miles in length ; one at Orville ; one at 
Chitteningo ; one at Lake Port, extending to the Cay- 
uga lake, 5 miles, and from thence to the Seneca lake 
at Geneva, a distance of 15 miles ; and one at Ptoches- 
ter of two miles in length, which serves the double 
purpose of a navigable feeder, and a mean of commu- 
nication for boats between the canal and the Genesee 
river. The Chemung canal, extending from the head 



ERIE CANAL. 233 

waters of the Seneca lake to the Chemung river, 18 
miles distant, with a navigable feeder of 13 miles, from 
Painted Post on the Chemung river to the summit level 
of the canal ; and the Crooked lake canal, 7 miles in 
length, extending from the outlet of the Seneca lake to 
the Crooked lake, near Pen Yan, have also been con- 
structed. 

The whole line of navigation Vv'hich is connected 
with the Eric canal by these last improvements, com- 
prehending the Seneca and Cayuga lakes, is 146 miles. 
The construction of a lateral canal from Rome to Black 
river in Jefferson county, — and the Genesee Valley ca- 
nal, from Rochester to Olean on the Alleghany river, 
have been authorized by the state legislature. 

The receipts in 1835 from the different canals, and 
from the sources connected therewith, including auc- 
tion and salt duties, was $1,911,555; and in 183G, 
$1,975,735. 

Though the " canal route," now that a rail road is 
completed to Ulica, properly commences at that place, 
we nevertheless give a table of distances throughout 
the line, commencing at Albany : 



234 



CANAL ROUTE. 



Distance from 



NAMES OF PLACES. 



Albany, 

Port-Schuyler, 

Washinfiton, (Gibbousville,) .... 

West Troy, 

Junction, 

Cabocs, 

Lowei- aqueduct, 

Willow Spring, 

Upper aqueduct, 

Schenectady, 

Rotterdam, 

Phillips' locks, 

Amsterdam, 

Schoharie creek, 

Smithtown, ( Auriesville,) 

Caughnawaga, (Fultonville,) . . . 

Big Nose, 

Spraker's basin, 

Cannjoharie, 

Fort Plain 

Diefendorf 's landing, 

Minden dam, (St. Johnsville,) . . 

East Canada creek,. 

Indian Castle, (Nowandaga cr'k) 

Fink's ferry, 

Little Falls, 

Rankin's lock, (No. 7,) 

Herkimer lower bridge, 

Herkimer upper bridge, 

Fulmer's creek, 

Morgan's landing, 

Steel's creek, 

Frankfort, • 



i «: 








o 








:5 








•^ 






^ 


"*" 






o 


O 


>^ 




m 






» 


CJ 


O 


rt 




o 


^ 




o 


CJ 




-i.^ 




a- 


< 


l::^ 


l-J 




5 
6 
< 

9 
10 
13 
19 
28l 
30| 
39 
44 
47 
52 
64 
57 
64 
6Q 
69 
72 
75 
77 
81 
83 
86 
8S 
91 
95 
96 
97 
93: 
99 
101 



110|269 
105 264 
104 283 



103 
101 
100 
97 
91 
84 
SO 
71 



262 
260 
259 



364 
359 
358 
357 
355 
354 



256 351 
250 345 
243 33S 
239.334 
230 325 
320 



17 



66225 
63 [222 
58l247!312 
56l215l310 
53 212 307 



46 [205 
44 203 
41 200 



29 
27 
24 
22 



300 
298 
295 



197i292 

1941289 
192287 
188283 
186281 
183 278 
181 276 



19 178 273 



174 

173 
172 
171 
170 
168 



269 
268 
267 
266 
265 
263 



CANAL ROUTE. 



235 



Distance from 



NAMES OF PLACES. 



o 


1 






o 








rt 






»^ 


CU 


. 




o 


O 


>> 


. 


en 


0) 






O 
O 


3- 


•<1 


13 


ci 



Ferguson's 

Utica, 

York Mills, (Wetmore's,) 

V/hitcsboro', 

Oriskany, 

Rome, 

Wood creek aqueduct, (Ft. Bull,) 

Ilawley's basin, 

Stony creek, 

New London, 

Higgins', 

Loomis,' 

Oneida creek, (Durhamville,) . . . 

Canastota,. 

'New Boston, (Canasaraga,) . . . . 

Chitteningo, 

Pool's brook, 

Kirkville, 

Little lake, 

Manlius, (Reel's,) 

Limestone feeder, 

Orville feeder, 

Lodi, 

Syracuse, 

Geddes, 

Belisle, 

Nine-mile creek, 

Camiilus, 

Canton, 

Peru, 

Jordan, 

Cold Spring, 

Weedsport, 

V 



107 
110 
113 
114 
117 
125 
127 
129 
130 
132 
13G 
138 
141 
146 
150 
153 
156 
158 
160 
162 
16 
165 
,170 
171 
173 
177 
178 
179 
184 
186 
190 
191 
196 



3 

3 
4 
7 
15 
17 
19 
20 
22 
26 
28 
31 
36 
40 
43 
46 
48 
50 
52 
53 
55 
60 
61 
63 
67 
68 
69 
74 
76 
80 
81 
86 



162 

159 

156 

155 

152 

144 

142 

140 

139 

137 

133 

131 

128 

123 

119 

116 

113 

111 

109 

107 

106 

104 

99 

98 

96 

92 

91 

90 

85 

83 

79 

78 

73 



257 
254 
251 
250 
247 
239 
237 
235 
234 
232 
228 
226 
222 
218 
214 
211 
208 
206 
204 
202 
201 
199 
194 
193 
191 
187 
186 
185 
180 
178 
174 
173 
168 



236 



CAXaL ROUT] 



Distance from 



NAMES OF PLACES. 



o 








o 








C3 
















p- 






o 


O 


>^ 


. 


o 










O 


ts 


cj 




















"n. 


< 


D 


ci 



Centreport, 

Port Byron, 

Montezuma, (Lakeport,) 

Lockpit, 

Clyde, 

Lock Berlin, 

Lyons, 

Lockville, 

Newark. 

Port Gibson, 

Palmyra, 

Macedonville, 

Wayneport, (IBarrager's basin,).. 
Perrinton, (Lindel's bridge,) .... 
Perrinton Centre, (Col. Peter's,) 

Fairport, 

Fullam's basin, 

Bushnel's basin, 

Pittsford, 

Billinghast's basin, 

Lock No. 3, 

Rochester, 

Brock way's, 

Spencer's basin, 

Adam's basin, , 

Coolcy's basin, 

Brockport, 

HoUey, 

Scio, 

Albion, 

Gaines' ba^in, 

Eagle harbor, 

Long bridge, 



197 
199 
205 
211 
21G 



87 

89 

95 

101 

106 



221; HI 

225|115 

2311121 

232 122 

235 125 

240' 130 

2441134 

247 

249 

25 

25? 

25a 

256 

'259 

263 

265 

289 

279 

281 

284 

2S7 

289 

294 

29S 

304 

306 

307 



2 1309 



137 
139 
141 
142 
143 
146 
149 
153 
155 
159 
169 
171 
174 
177 
179 
184 
188 
194 
196 
197 
199 



72 
70 
64 

r.ft 



167 
165 
159 
153 
148 
4S|143 
44|l39 
38 133 
37 132 
34 1 129 
291124 
25 [120 
22 117 
20;115 
181113 
17 112 
16 111 



13 

10 
6 
4 

10 
12 
15 
18 
20 
25 
29 
35 
37 
38 
40 



lOS 
105 
lOl 
99 
95 
85 
83 
80 
77 
75 
70 
66 
60 
5S 
57 
55 



wniTEsr.oRouon. 



237 



NAMES OF PLACS^ 





Distance 


/)-0//l 


o 








o 








ci 








Q- 






L. 


O 






02 


o 


CC 


X 


o 


^ 


o 


o 

o 








u 


<j 


tD 


Di 



Ivnowlesviiie, 

Road culvert, 

Medinti, 

Shelby basin, 

Middleport, 

Reynold's basin,. ... 

Gasport, 

Lock port, ........ 

Pendleton, 

Welch's, 

H. Brock way's, . . . 

Tonnawanta, 

Lower Black Rock, 

Black Rock, 

Buffalo 



2 


•ill 


201 j 


42 


1 


312 


202 


43 


3 


315 


205 


46 


3 


318 


208 


49 


3 


321 


211 


52 


3 


324 


214 


55 


2 


320 


216 


57 


7 


333 


223 


64 


7 


340 


230 


71 




342 


232 


73 


4 


346 


236 


77 


6 


352 


242 


83 


8 


360 


250 


91 


1 


361 


251 


92 


3 


364 


254 


95 



53 
52 
49 
46 
43 
40 
38 
31 
24 
23 
IS 
12 
4 
3 




For a description of Albany, Trot, the Junction, 
Schenectady, Utica, and the intermediate places, see 
pages 144, 150, 158, 153, 196 to 205. 

Whitesborough, 4 miles north-west of Utica, is a 
beautiful and wealthy village, located on a rich and 
fertile plain. The principal street is a short distance 
from, and runs parallel with the canal ; from which 
through branches of trees half enshrouding the vil- 
lage, may be seen several elegant country seats. It 
may be considered, indeed, as better adapted for a 
country residence than a place cf business. At the 
eastern extremity of the village is shown the first 



238 CANAL ROUTE. 

framed house erected in the county of Oneida ; half a 
mile from which the canal passes over the Sauquait 
creek. Within 11 miles of the canal, on this creek, 
there are nearly 100 mills of various descriptions, in- 
cluding several factories, some of which cost rising of 
$120,000. The York mills, or cotton factories, half a 
mile south of the canal, are considered among the best 
in the state, and constitute of themselves, with the 
houses for laborers, a compact village, 

Oriskant, 3 miles from Whitesborough, is a flour- 
ishing village of about 100 houses. It is situated on 
the Oriskany creek, which here enters the canal as a 
feeder. The Oriskany Manufacturing Company have 
a woollen factory here, which is the most extensive of 
the kind in the state. The capital of the company is 
$200,000, one half of which has been paid in ; and the 
amount of wool annually consumed is 160,000 pounds. 

Rome, 8 miles. This is a half shire town of the coun- 
ty of Oneida, contains a court bouse, jail and bank, 
and is pleasantly situated on the north side of the old 
canal connecting Wood creek with the JNlohawk river, 
and about half a mile north of the Erie canal.* It con- 
tains a bank and about 350 dwelling houses, principally 
located on one street, running east and west. The ruins 
of Fort Stmiwix, near the village between Wood creek 
and the Mohawk, are still visible. This fort was erect- 
ed in 1753 by the British, was suffered to decay, and 
was afterwards rebuilt by the Americans during the 

* In the improvement of the canal, it is to pass thro' 
the village. 



NEW-LONL'ON. 239 

revolution. 15 or 1800 men, including Indians, were 
sent from Montreal by Burgoyne, in 1777, to besiege 
the fort. They were commanded by the Baion St. 
Legcr. Gen. Herkimer, commandant of the militia oi' 
Tryon county, (embracing the present counties of 
Pvlontgomery and Herkimer,) was sent against them 
with about SCO men. On meeting a detachment of Le- 
ber's forces, the militia mostly fied on the first fire. A 
few, however, remained and fought by the side of Gen. 
H., who was mortally wounded in the road between 
Whitestown and Ptome. The Americans lost IGO kill- 
ed and 240 wounded. The fort, which was command- 
ed by Col. Gansevoort, was afterwards assaulted by 
Leger's array ; but they were driven off by a sortie, di- 
rected by Col. Willet, and their camp plundered. Sub- 
sequently the fort was summoned to surrender ; but 
through a stratagem of Gen. Arnold, who sent two em« 
issaries from the camp at Stillwater, an Indian and a 
white man, to inform Leger of the approach of a pow- 
erful American army for the relief of the besieged, he 
ordered a precipitate retreat to the Oneida lake, leav- 
ing all his baofgaffe behind. 

An arsenal belonging to the U. S. is situate about 
half a mile west of the village and 300 yards north of 
the canal. 

New-Londont, a small village, is passed 7 miles from 
Rome ; and the village of Loomis, 6 miles farther ,- 3 
miles from which the canal crosses the Oneida Creek. 
From thence to Lenox Basin is 3 miles ; to Canasto- 
TA, a flourishing village of about 150 houses, 2 miles ; 
and to New Boston, 4 miles. 
v2 



240 CANAL ROUTE. 

Chitteninco is 4 miles farther. A navigable feeder 
enters the canal at this place. It is taken from the 
Chitteningo creek at the village of that name, a mile 
and a half distant. {See p. 212.) From Chitteningo to 
IManlius (see p. 213) is 8 miles; from thence to Orv^ille 
3 ;* and from thence 6 miles to 

Syracuse. The appearance of this village as you 
approach it is handsome. It is built on both sides of 
the canal, and the stores and warehouses are substan- 
tial and lofty. On the left, as you come up the canal, 
is one of the most splendid Hotels in the state. It is of 
brick, four stories high, and surrounded v.ith piazzas. 
There are also about 700 dwellings and stores, several 
handsome churches, a bank, court house and jail, and 
everything has the appearance of a commercial bust- 
ling town. This thriving village owes its importance 
principally to the salt produced in its neighborhood, the 
whole adjacent country being- impregnated with it, and 
springs from v/hich immense quantities are manufac- 
tured rising in various directions.' A little v.-est of Sy- 
racuse, a plain of 300 acres is nearly covered with vats 
for the manufacture of salt by solar evaporation. The 
water is brought in logs from the great spring at Sali- 
na, one mile distant, which supplies, with very little at- 
tention, the various ranges of vats. A light roof is con- 
structed to each vat, which can be shoved off or on at 
pleasure, to permit the rays of the sun to act upon the 

* At this place are inexhaustible beds of water lime, 
used for hydraulic cement ; large quantities of which 
are annually exported. 



SALINA. 241 

water, or to prevent the dampness of the atmosphere 
from comminghng therewith. The salt is taken out of 
these vats during the warm season, and removed to 
store houses ; from whence it is conveyed in barrels to 
the canal for transportation. Two companies, with 
each a capital of $150,000, have been incorporated, who 
annually manufacture 160,000 bushels. 

The Onondaga creek, affording valuable water pow- 
er, runs through the village, over which the canal is 
carried in a stone aqueduct of 4 arches. 

Salina is one and a half miles north of Syracuse, 
and though not on the usually travelled route to the 
west, should be visited for the purpose of examining 
the principal spring, and the various salt establishments 
connected therewith. 

The spring at Salina was first discovered by the In- 
dians many years since, by being the resort of deer and 
other animals. The first v.'hite settlers were in the 
habit of boiling the water in small vessels for domestic 
purposes. Since then the spring has been excavated 
to a very considerable depth, and affords the strongest 
saline water yet discovered in the world, 40 gallons 
yielding about a bushel of pure salt. The water is 
forced up to the top of an adjoining hill by a powerful 
hydraulian, driven by the surplus waters of the Os- 
wego canal, which runs through this place. The salt 
water is in this way conveyed 85 feet above the canal 
to a large reservoir, into which it is discharged at the 
rate of 300 gallons per minute. It is hence carried to 
the different factories in Salina and Syracuse. Of these 
there are 77 at Salina and 15 at Syracuse ; there are 



242 CANTAL ROUTE. 

also 25 at Liverpool, about 6 miles north-west of Sali- 
na, and 16 at Gedde?, 2 miles west of Syracuse. The 
works and springs all belong to the state, to which im- 
posts are payable, which, by the constitution of the 
state, are applied towards the extinguishment of the 
canal debt. The water is conveyed from the reservoir 
to the different manufactories and evaporating fields, 
by means of wooden pipes. The salt is manufactured 
generally by boiling and evaporation. There are, how- 
ever, two establishments in which it is made in large 
wooden vats, by means of hot air passing through 
them in large metallic pipes. The manufactories con- 
tain from 15 to 40 potash kettles, under each of which 
a constant fire is kept up, so that the water may not 
cease to boil. The first deposit of the water is thrown 
away. The pure salt soon after makes its appearance, 
and is refined for the table by means of blood, milk, 
rosin, &c. The springs are considered as inexhausti- 
ble ; and the amount of salt manufactured at Salina, 
Liverpool, Syracuse and Geddes, in 1335, was 2,222,- 
6G4 bushels, on which there Vv'as a duty paid of ,$113,- 
364. 

Salina is a flourishing village, but of less magnitude 
than Syracuse ; though, from the rapidly increasing 
growth of both, it is not improbable that they will ere 
long become a continuous town. A fine view of the 
Onondaga Lake, about a mile distant, is had from the 
place. It is six miles long and two broad. At its north- 
western extremity is seen the pleasant village of Liver- 
pool, of more recent origin, but promising to become a 
place of some importance. Gypsum and petrifactions 
are found in great quantities ia the vicinity of the lake. 



OSWEGO CANAL — GEDDES. 243 

The Oswego canal, from Syracuse to Lake Onta- 
rio at Oswego, is 38 miles long, including 20 miles of 
the Oswego river, on which are several locks and dams. 
The whole lockage of the canal and river is 123 feet.* 

Geddes, 2 miles by canal from Syracuse, is becom- 
ing a place of some importance, in consequence of the 
recent discovery of several valuable salt springs. They 
are mostly within a few rods of the canal, as well as 
numerous establishments for the manufacture of salt. 
A short distance west of the village, a fine prospect is 
had of the Onondaga lake and the villages of Liver- 
pool and Salina. 

Nine Mile Creek, 6 miles fi-om Geddes. It is a 
stream of some magnitude, and is crossed by the canal, 
over two arches, 

Camillus, 1 mile. 



* Packets run daily between Syracuse and Oswego, 
and steam-boats every other day from the latter place 
to Lewiston, 7 miles below Niagara Falls. The inter- 
mediate distances on the canal are as follow : 



Miles. 

Phoenix, 2 

Sweet's Lock, 3 

Ox creek, 3 

Fulton, 4 

Braddock's Pv.apid, ... 4 
Tiffany's Landing, . . 4 

High Dam, 1 

Oswego, 2 

The scenery is interesting — surpassing any of the 
same extent, with few exceptions, on the Erie canal. 



Miles. 
From Syracuse to Sa- 
lina, 2 

Liverpool, 3 

Cold Spring, 3 

NewBridcre, 5 

Three Rivers Point, . 2 



244 CANAL HOUTE. 

Caxton, a small village, 5 miles. 
Peru, 2 miles. 

JoRDAX, 4 miles. A short distance east of the vil- 
lage, the canal crosses the Jordan creek. 

Weed's Port, 6 miles. A thriving village of about 
120 houses. A stage can be taken here daily for Au- 
burn, 7 miles south. (See p. 216.) 

Centre Port, 1 mile. 

Port Btron, 2 miles. The canal here crosses the 
Ovvasco creek, a stream issuing from a lake of that 
name, two miles south of Auburn. The state prison is 
erected on the bank of this creek, the waters of which 
are used for propelling the machinery. 

Five miles farther are the Montezuma salt works, 
about i of a mile north of the canal, with a lateral cut 
leading thereto ; one mile from which is the small vil- 
lage of 

Lake Port. The western section of the canal (con- 
tradistinguished from the middle and eastern sections) 
commences at this place. From Utica to Lake Port, 
the mean descent of the canal is 45 feet ; and there are 
9 locks, ascending and descending. From Lake Port 
to Lockport the ascent is 185 feet, and the number of 
mtervening locks 21. The waters of the canal at the 
former place are remarkably pure and chrvstaline in 
their appearance, not unfrequently exhibiting large 
quantities of fish at their bottom. 



CLTIJE — PALMYRA. 245 

One mile from Lake Port, the canal enters the Mon- 
tezuma marshes, 3 miles in extent. These marshes 
are formed by the outlets of the Cayuga and Seneca 
lakes, and exhibit a most dreary, desolate and stagnant 
appearance. The water is generally from 4 to 8 feet 
deep, and the bottom covered with long grass, the usu- 
al growth of swamps, extending ficquently to the sur- 
face. A long bridge is used for a tow-palh over a part 
of these marshes. Shortly after leaving them, the ca- 
nal crosses and unites vvith the outlet of the Canandai- 
gua lake, a sluggish stream, Vvhich, with the outlets of 
Cayuga and Seneca, soon form the Seneca river, which 
enters and constitutes a considerable part of the Osv/c- 
go river. 

Clyde, 11 miles from Lake Port, is a flourishing vil- 
lage, containing glass works. From thence to Lyons, 
a handsome village, containing a court house, jail, bank 
and about 250 dwellings, is 9 miles ; and from thence 
to LocKViLLE 6 miles, to Newark 1 mile, and to Port 
Gibson 3 miles. 

Palmyra, 8 miles farther, is a thriving village in 
AVayne county. It is built chiefly on a wide street, 
along the south bank of the canal, and contains be- 
tween 2 and 300 dwellings. JMud creek runs eastward 
about 40 rods north of the main street, and the canal 
passes between the creek and the street. There are 
several factories and mills on this creek. Palmyra and 
Port Gibson are landing places for goods designed for 
Canandaigua. 

Fair Port. 11 miles. 



246 CANAL ROUTE. 

FtJLLOM'9 Basin, 12 miles, From this place to Ro- 
chester, by canal, is 1 6 miles ; while the distance by 
land is but 7^. Travellers, accordingly, who have seen 
the Great Emhanhnenl over the Irondequoit creek, fre- 
quently take a stage, to shorten the excursion ; but 
those who have never passed over this artificial work, 
should continue on the canal route. The embankment 
is reached in about 4 miles from Fullom's Basin, and is 
continued for nearly two miles, at an average height of 
about 70 feet. The novelty of a passage at so great 
an elevation is much increased in the fine prospect af- 
forded of the surrounding country. Two miles from 
the embankment is the handsome village of 

PiTTSPORD, containing about 100 houses and seve- 
ral stores ; and 10 miles farther is the flourishing and 
important city of 

ROCHESTER.* 

It is situated on the east and west side of the Gene- 
see river, which, at this place, is 50 yards wide, and is 
crossed by two substantial bridges within the limits of 
the city. On the north side of the lower bridge, the 
local distinctions of East and West Rochester have 
been in a measure annihilated, by the erection of the 
Market and Exchange buildings over the Genesee, 
making the twain a continued town. Within its 



* For a description of Rochester and the surround- 
ing country, the editor is principally indebted to Lyman 
B. Langwortht, Esq. of that place. 



ROCHESTER, 247 

limits arc two of the six falls on the river ; the upper a 
small fall of 12 feet at the foot of the rapids, and imme- 
diately above the canal aqueduct ; and the other the 
great fall of 97 feet, about 80 rods below. From a 
point of rock above the centre of these falls, at the foot 
of a small island, the celebrated Sam Patch made his 
last and fatal leap in the autumn of 1S29. From a 
scaffold elevated 25 feet above tlie table rock, makino' 
the entire height 125 feet, he fearlessly and carelessly 
precipitated himself into the abyss beneath. He did 
not rise at that time to the surface ; nor was his body 
found until the following spring, when it was discover- 
ed at the mouth of the Genesee river, 6 miles below. 

From a complete wilderness, Rochester has been re- 
deemed in the comparatively short period of about 25 
years, the first settlement having been made in 1812. 
Its situation in the immediate vicinity of the canal, and 
only 7 miles from Lake Ontario, with a ship navigation 
within two miles of the town, and a rail road connected 
with the Erie canal at the east end of the aqueduct, 
enable its inhabitants to select a market either at New- 
York, Uuebec, or on the borders of the great western 
lakes ; and the many other natural advantages which 
It enjoys for trade and manufactures, destines it to be- 
come one of the most important places in the interior 
of the state. The population of Rochesterin 1825 was 
5278 ; in 1830, 9269 ; and in 1835, 14,404. The Erie 
canal strikes the river in the south part of the city, and 
after following the eastern bank for half a mile, crosses 
the river in the centre of the city, in an aqueduct, which 



248 CANAL ROUTE. 

cost rising of $80,000.* Tiiis aqueduct is constructed 
of red free stone, and from the eastern extremity of its 
parapet walls to the western termination, is 804 feet 
long. It is built on 1 1 arches, one of 26, one of 30, and 
9 of 50 feet chord, under which water passes for 
flouring mills and other hydraulic estabhshments. The 
piers, which are placed on solid rock, in the bed of the 
river, arc 4^, and the arches resting thereon 11 feet 
high. On the north wall, which is of sufficient thick- 
ness for the towing path, is an iron railing ; and at the 
west end, the whole is terminated by a highway and 
towing path bridge, of the most solid and elegant work- 
manship. The canal is supplied by a navigable feeder 
from the Genesee, which it enters within the limits of 
the city, and through which boats may enter and as- 
cend the river from 70 to 90 miles.f It has, indeed, 
been recently ascertained that the river is navigable for 
steam boats of light burthen ; and a boat has been 
built by a company for that purpose. The height of the 
canal at Rochester above the tide waters of the Hudson 
is 501 feet ; above Lake Ontario, 270 feet ; and below 
Lake Erie, 64 feet. 

* The new aqueduct, now constructing, is to be com- 
posed of limestone from the Onondaga quarries, to be 
much increased in its dimensions, and to cost about 
$500,000. 

f The construction of the Genesee Valley canal was 
authorized by the legislature in 1836. It is to extend 
from Rochester to Olean Point on the Alleghany river, 
about 100 miles in a southerly direction ; a considera- 
ble proportion of which will consist of slack water in 
the Genesee river, by means of locks and dams. 



ROCHESTER. 249 

Among the public buildings in the city, are a court 
house, 15 churches, 3 markets, 3 banks, (one of which 
is very splendid,) and a museum, together with two 
valuable institutions, the Franklin Institute and Athe- 
neum. There are also several extensive cotton and 
woollen manufactories, together with various opera- 
tions in iron and wood, suited to the wants of a great 
and growing country. The Globe buildings, a majes- 
tic pile, rising from the water's edge, 5 stories, exclu- 
sive of attics, with between 130 and 140 apartments 
suitable for workshops, and several stores, were de- 
stroyed by fire in the winter of 1834, and rebuilt the 
following year. The principal public houses are the 
Rochester House, Clinton House, Eagle Tavern, Man- 
sion House, Arcade House, Monroe House, and City 
Hotel. There are also two daily and several weekly 
newspapers. 

Within the limits of the city are more than 20 flour- 
ing mills, containing nearly 100 run of stones, capable 
of manufacturing more than 5000 barrels of flour and 
consuming more than 20,000 bushels of wheat every 
24 hours. Some of the mills are on a scale of magni- 
tude perhaps not equalled in the world. One of them 
contains more than four acres of flooring, and all are 
considered unrivalled in the perfection of their machine- 
ry. Indeed, so powerful and complete is the whole 
flouring apparatus, that there are several single run of 
stones which grind, and the machinery connected 
therewith, bolt and pack 100 barrels of flour per day. 

The Arcade is 100 feet in front, 135 feet in depth, 
and four stories high, exclusive of the attic and base- 
ment. It has 6 stories in front, with a large opening 



250 TONHWANDA RAIL ROAD. 

for a passage to the Arcade, where the post ofRce,Athe- 
neum, Arcade House, and a variety of offices are located. 
From the centre arises an observatory in the form of a 
Chinese Pagoda, which overlooks the surrounding 
country ; and in clear v/eather the lake can be seen like 
a strip of blue cloud in the horizon. The front of this 
edifice is stuccoed, in imitation of marble, except the 
first story, which is of the Oswego red free stone. 

The geological structure of this region can be easily 
traced, and is beautifully illustrated in the banks of the 
river, which are from 100 to 200 feet in height, with a 
descent of 270 feet to the lake. At Carthage, two 
miles below, are a great variety of petrifactions, which 
have been blasted from the rocks in forming a canal for 
mill privileges. Seven miles from Rochester, a part of 
the way on the ridge road, on the east side of the river, 
is Irondequoit bay, with a high sand ridge running 
across it, except about two rods, where there is a chan- 
nel ; the shore is fine and sandy, and equals any in 
America for bathing. The bay is also celebrated for 
fishing and fowling. 

ThcToNEWANDA Rail RoAD,from Rochester to Ba- 
tavia, in a southwesterly direction, has already been 
noticed at pages 194 and 229. It is over aremarkabl}- 
level country, requiring but slight acclivities, and con- 
sists of a single track only, with occasional turn-outs. 
It is constructed mainly of heavy timbers, taken from 
the adjacent forests, placed longitudinally in the earth 
— the surface levelled, and an oak ribbond, or thin 
piece of scantling, placed thereon, surmounted by an 
iron plate of the usual thickness. It has proved an 
eeonomical mode of structure — the entire cost, includ- 



ROCHESTER. 251 

ing fixtures, carriages, and engines, having been only 
about $10,000 per mile. The time employed in going 
over the road, 32 miles in extent, is about two hours — 
f\ire.$l,50. [From Batavia a railroad is soon to be 
constructed to Buffalo, as noticed at p. 230.] 

A rail road is also to be completed in a short time 
from Rochester to Charlotte, the mouth of the Gene- 
see, on the west side of the river, to avoid the unpleas- 
ant navigation up the river, and the rugged ascent from 
Carthage. Length of the proposed road, 7 miles- 
ascent, about 220 feet. 

Stages leave Rochester daily for Niagara Falls, 81 
miles distant, by way of Lewiston, passing ever the 
ridge road;* and the rail road and stage line can be 
taken twice a day for Buffalo, by way of Batavia, 72 
miles. 

Packet Boats also leave Rochester every morning 
for Buffalo and Utica. 

The Lake Ontario Steam-Boats have heretofore 
touched at Carthage, two miles below Rochester, af- 
fording a passage every other day to Lewiston and 
Glueenston, on the Niagara river, and to Ogdensburgh 
and Prescott, on the St. Lawrence, as well as the inter- 
mediate ports on the lake. So much, however, has the 
travel by this mode of conveyance been augmented 



* The ridge road commences 2J miles from Roches- 
ter, over which the following are the intervening dis- 
tances between that place and Buffalo : Carthage Falls 
2 miles, Parma 9, Clarkson 7, Murray 7, Ridgeway 15, 
Hartland 10, Cambria 12, Lewiston 12, Niagara Falls 
7, Buffalo 22. 

w2 



252 CANAL ROUTE. 

within a year or two, that a daily line will probably be 
run hereafter. [This route is more fully noticed under 
the head of Lake Ontario.] 

Before leaving Rochester, (unless the ridge road or 
steam boat route should be taken,) the traveller will 
find it an object of interest to visit 

Carthage, 2 miles down the Genesee river. This 
village derived its consequence from an elegant bridge, 
which, during its existence, formed the most eligible 
route to the western part of the state. The bridge was 
erected across the river just below the basin of the falls, 
which are 70 feet. It consisted of a single arch, whose 
chord measured 300 feet. The distance from the cen- 
tre to the river was 250 feet. This stupendous fabric 
stood a short time after its construction, but at length 
fell under the pressure of its own weight. One of the 
abutments is still standuig; and from its situation, 
visitants may judge of the former position of the bridge, 
and the almost impious presumption of man in attempt- 
ing to overcome height, space, gravity, and the resist- 
less fury of the elements. Vessels from the lake, 5 
miles distant, ascend up the river to these falls, where 
they are laden and unladen by means of an inclined 
plane — the descending weight being made to raise a 
lighter one by its superior gravity. 

A rail road from Rochester ends here, and is con- 
nected with the navigation of the Lake — the carriages 
both for passengers and for burthen passing up and 
down every half hour. 

The great western level on the canal commences two 
miles east of Rochester ; from whence to Lockport a 
distance of Go miles, there is no lock. Several new 



ALBION — MEDINA. 253 

and flourishing villages have sprung up since the con- 
struction of the canal ; and the period cannot be dis- 
tant when the whole country between the two places 
will contain a dense population. 

Brockway's Basin is 10 miles from Rochester ; from 
whence to Spencer's Basin, a small village, is 2 miles. 
Adam's Basin is 3 miles farther ; from whence to Coo- 
let's Basin is 3 miles, and to 

Brockport 8 miles. This is a fine, thriving vil- 
lage, containing between 3 and 400 houses, about 2500 
inhabitants, 12 or 14 respectable stores, 3 churches, a 
seminary of learning, and all the other concomitants of 
a neat and industrious town. At this place are annu- 
ally purchased from 4 to 500,000 bushels of wheat for 
the Rochester mills. 

HoLLEY, a beautiful and thriving little village, 5 
miles. A short distance east of the village is the Holley 
Embankment and culvert, over Sandy creek, elevating 
the canal 87 feet above the level of the creek. 
Scio, 4 miles. 

AlBioN, 10 miles : a pleasant and improving village, 
with a bank, court house, jail, 230 dwellings, and about 
2000 inhabitants. It has some mill privileges, and is 
surrounded by a fine agricultural country. Eight miles 
farther, in the town of Ridge way, a public road passes 
wider the canal, through a handsome arch 5 one mile 
from which, is the village of 

Medina, on the bank of Oak Orchard creek. It con- 
tains about 250 dv/ellings and 2000 inhabitants, who 
derive much advantage from the water privileges af- 
forded by the creek, and from the rich and fertile coun- 



254 CANAL ROUTE. 

try in the vicinity. The village is in a thriving condi- 
tion, and bids fair to become a place of some importance. 
The canal here crosses the creek over the largest arch 
on the M^hole route. There are circular steps leading 
to the bottom ; from whence is a foot path passing un- 
derneath and leading to the village. As the boat 
"waits for no man," passengers desirous of seeing this 
artificial work, should go ashore before reaching it, and 
gain time by a rapid walk. They can be received on 
board ag-ain at the village, where the boat stops to land 
and receive passengers. 

MiDDLEPORT, 6 miles. 

Gasport, 5 miles. It derives its name from an in- 
flammable spring, which rises in the canal basin at the 
village. 

Lockport, 7 miles. By far the most gigantic works 
on the whole line of the canal are at this place. After 
travelhng between 60 and 70 miles on a perfect level, 
the traveller here strikes the foot of the " Mountain 
Ridge," which is surmounted by 5 magnificent locks of 
12 feet each, connected with 5 more of equal dimen- 
sions for descending — so that while one boat is raised 
to an elevation of BO feet, another is seen sinking into 
the broad basin below. The locks are of the finest im- 
aginable workmanship, with stone steps in the centre 
and on either side, guarded with iron railings, for the 
convenience and safety of passengers. Added to this 
stupendous work, an excavation is continued through 
the mountain ridge, composed of rock, a distance of 
three miles, at an average depth of 20 feet. When 
viewing this part of the canal, we are amazed with the 



BUFFALO. 255 

consideration of what may be accomplished by human 
means. 

The village of Lockport is partly located on the 
mountain ridge, immediately above the locks, and part- 
ly below ; and though " founded on a rock," surround- 
ed with rocl^s, and with little or no soil, it has already 
become a place of much importance. In 1821, there 
were but 2 houses in the place ; now there are 50Q, 
and upwards of 4000 inhabitants. The village also 
contains 7 churches, a bank, court house and jail, and 
several commodious public houses. The canal here 
being on the highest summit level, and supplied with 
water from Lake Erie, (distant 30 miles,) an abundance 
is obtained for hydraulic purposes, affording to the vil- 
lage a lusting and permanent power for mills and man- 
ufactories of various kinds. 

A rail road is now nearly finished from Lockport to 
Niagara Falls ; so that passengers desirous of visiting 
that place will leave the canal at Lockport. 

Seven miles from Lockport, at Pendleton, the canal 
enters the Tonnewanta creek, and continues therein 12 
miles to its mouth, atToNAWAXDA, v/here is a dam 4J 
feet high. From thence it is continued on the bank of 
the Niagara 8 miles to Black Rock, (noticed in a sub- 
sequent page) where it unites with the harbor, and 
from thence on the bank of the rivci 3 miles, to the 
city of 

BUFFALO, 
Which is situated at the outlet of Lake Erie. It is a 
beautiful and thriving town, and with the advantages of 
both a natural and artificial navigation, is destined to 



256 BUFFALO. 

become one of the most important places in the state. 
Its present population is estimated at about IS, 000, and 
the number of buildings at nearly 2500. The Erie ca- 
nal commences in this village, near the outlet of the 
Buffalo creek, and passes through an extensive and per- 
fectly level plot, equidistant from the shore of the lake 
and the high grounds called the Terrace. From ihc 
canal are cut, at very suitable distances, lateral canals 
and basins, rendering the whole of what has heretofore 
been termed the loiver town, contiguous to water com- 
munication. Stores and ware-houses are so construct- 
ed as to receive the boats along side. In its location, 
Buffalo is in the midst of the enterprize and business of 
this new world. All the manufactures and migrating 
population from the north and east here find a resting 
place, and the agricultural products of the loest, coming 
from the long extended lakes, here seek a new avenue 
to the Atlantic. At the Terrace, which was formerly 
the dividing line between the upper and lower towns, 
but which are now rendered continuous, a gentle and 
equal rise of ground commences, continuing nearly and 
perhaps quite two miles, and then falls away to a per- 
fect level as far as the eye can reach, bounded only by 
the horizon. Upon this elevated ground there is a 
charming view of the lake, Niagara river, the canal 
with its branches, the Buffalo creek, the town itself, 
and the Canada shore ; a prospect from which every 
one parts with reluctance. The streets are very broad, 
and passing from the higli grounds over the Terrace to 
the water, are intersctcd with cross streets. There are 
three public squares of some extent, which add much 
to the beauty of the town. The public buildings are a 



BUFFALO. 257 

court-house, situated on the highest part of Main-street, 
well proportioned and handsomely ornamented, with a 
lar"e park in front, enclosed and set round with forest 
trees; 15 churches, a literary and scientific academy, 
a iyceum, a female seminary and 3 banks. The Uni- 
versity of Western New- York, chartered in 1836, is 
now erecting in the city, on grounds furnished by the 
corporation. The Presbyterian meeting house, stand- 
ing near the Episcopal church upon a semi-circular 
common on Main-street, is an edifice of very command- 
ing appearance ; and several of the other churches 
are beautiful specimens of architecture, and would do 
credit to any city in America. 

There are several spacious public houses ; among 
which, the American Hotel is probably not surpass- 
ed by any in the United States, either as to size, furni- 
ture or the style in which it is kept. The Eagle Tav- 
ern, Buffalo House and City Hotel are also exten- 
sive and highly respectable establishments, and share 
liberally in the public patronage. 

The place (then a village) was burnt by the British 
in 1814, when there was but one house left standing. 
This is still pointed out in the upper part of the town. 
It was not until considerable time had elapsed after 
this, that Buffalo began to be rebuilt, nor until the canal 
was located, did it rise with much promise. It is now 
a city, having been incorporated as such in 1832, is 
rapidly rising into importance, and will become inevi- 
tably the Liverpool of Western New- York. Five years 
have made more improvements in that place than in 
any other town of the west. A ship canal 80 feet wide 
and 13 feet deep, extends across from the harbor, near 



253 BUFFALO. 

the outlet of Buffalo creek to the canal, a distance of 
about 700 yards ; and a boat canal from the Big Buffa- 
lo creek to the Little Buffalo creek, a distance of 1,600 
feet. A rail road has also been constructed to Black 
Rock, and from thence to Niagara Falls. Within a 
short period, several blocks of extensive stores and 
warehouses have been erected, and tlie commerce of 
the place has increased at an unexampled rate. Be- 
tween forty and fifty steam-beats ply between the city 
and various places on the lake. A morning and even- 
ing boat leave the harbor daily for Detroit, and addi- 
tional boats are building which will even increase the 
facilities of communication. A large number of square 
rigged schooners whiten the lake with their canvass, 
and bear to and from Buffalo immense quantities of 
merchandize and agricultural products. 

As this place was the theatre of important events 
during the last war, the writer had expected to find in 
the city church yards some monuments to the memory 
of the brave who fell during that period. But he dis- 
covered only one ; it contained the following inscrip- 
tion : " To the memory of Maj. Wm. Howe Cutler, 
who was killed at Black Rock by a shot from the ene- 
my, on the night of the 9th October, 1812, while hu- 
manely administering to the relief of the wounded sol- 
diers, who intrepidly crossed to the British shore, and 
brought over the Adams frigate, that had been surren- 
dered by Gen. Hull, and the Caledonia ship belonging 
to the enemy. He was in the 35th year of his age, and 
son of the late Henry Cuyler, Esq. of Grecnbush, in 
this state." 



THE WESTERN LAKES. 259 

The Seneca Village, settled by about 900 Indians, 
principally Senecas, with some Onondagas and Cayu- 
gas dwelling amongst them, is from 3 to 4 miles south 
cast of Buffalo. They own 49,000 acres, reaching to 
the very bounds of the city, a greater part of which is 
luxuriantly fertile. A mission is established on the re- 
servation, and a school kept for the instruction of In- 
dian children. Near the Seneca Village is a sulphur 
spring, which is much resorted to during the summer 
season. 

THE WESTERN LAKES. 

Before proceeding down the Niagara river to the 
Falls, it may be interesting to tourists to examine a 
brief description of the great chain of lakes whose wa- 
ters flow through this channel. It will give a more 
adequate idea of the vast amount of waters which are 
united in this stupendous river. We will also append 
to this description a notice of the most prominent 
towns on the Lakes, with a sketch of the routes to 
each. 

Lake Superior, the first and westernmost of these 
inland seas, lies between 46° and 49° of north latitude, 
and between 84° and 93° west longitude from London. 
Its length is 459, and its average width 109 miles. 
About 40 small and 3 large rivers enter into this lake, 
on one of which, just before its entrance, are perpen- 
dicular falls of more than 600 feet. The water of the 
lake is remarkably transparent, so much so, that a ca- 
noe over a depth of six fathoms seems rather suspend- 
ed in air than resting on the water. The outlet of the 

X 



260 LAKE MICHIGAN. 

lake is called the river St. Marie, which is 90 miles 
long, its waters flowing into 

Lake Huron. This lake is on the boundary be- 
tween the U. States and Canada, 218 miles long from 
east to west, and 180 broad. Besides the waters of 
Lake Superior, it receives the waters of 

Lake Michigan, which is 300 miles long and about 
50 miles wide. At its northwest corner a large inlet 
opens, called Green Bay, about 100 miles long, and 
from 15 to 20 broad, into which Fox river empties. 
Three miles from the mouth of this river is Green Bay 
village, a very considerable settlement, and a U. States 
military post, called Fort Howard, The fort is built of 
stone, and is on a beautiful rise of ground. Steam-boats 
from Buffalo visit this place occasionally during the 
summer — distance 807 miles. Beside the Fox, the St. 
Joseph and Grand, two very important rivers, and in- 
numerable smaller streams, discharge their waters into 
Lake Michigan. 

Near the mouth of the straits which unite the Michi- 
gan with the Huron Lake, and within the latter, is the 
island of Michilimackinac, commonly called Mackinaw, 
distinguished as a military post during the French war, 
and occupied as such by the government of the U. S, 
at the present time. The island is about 9 miles in cir- 
cumference ; the village of Mackinaw, which is on its 
south east side, is surrounded with a steep cliff 150 feet 
high. On the top of this cliff stands a fort ; half a mile 
from which, on another summit, 300 feet above the lev- 
el of the lake, is Fort Holmes, commanding an extcn- 



FROM BUFFALO TO DETROIT. 261 

sive prospect of both lakes. Mackinaw is 180 miles 
NE. of Fort Howard, 313 N. of Detroit, and 627 NVV. 
of Buffalo. 

The waters of these lakes thus congregated, enter 
the St. Clair river, 40 miles long, to the St. Clair Lake, 
which is about 90 miles in circumference. From this 
lake they enter the Detroit river, on which the city of 
Detroit stands, 9 miles below the lake, and communi- 
cate with Lake Erie, 19 miles from Detroit. 

Lake Erie is on the boundary line between the U. S. 
and Upper Canada. It is 290 miles long from SW. to 
NE.,and in the widest part, 63 broad. Besides the 
waters of the upper lakes, it receives the Cuyahoga 
river and several tributary streams. 

Such are the sources of the Niagara ; a river infe- 
rior in splendor to none, perhaps, in the world. 

Travellers designing a tour through the Lakes or to 
the western states, without returning to Buffalo, will, 
as a matter of course, visit Niagara Falls, 20 miles 
north of the city, before commencing the steam boat 
excursion. We will, however, in imagination, convey 
the tourist to some of the prominent points on the 
Lakes — return to Buffalo — proceed to the Falls, and 
from thence continue the northern tour to its consum- 
mation. 

FROM BUFFALO TO DETROIT — 305 mileS. 

A steam boat, of which there are several, can be tak- 
en daily from Buffalo to Detroit — fare $8. The time 
employed in passing from one city to the other is about 



262 FROM BUFFALO TO PETROIT. 

36 hours. The intermediate places of prominence and 
distances are as follow : 



Miles. 

Fairport, 32 

Cleveland, 30 

Sandusky, 54 

Cunnincrham's Island 12 

North Bass Island, . . 10 

Middle Sister Island, 10 

Amherstburgh, U. C. 20 

Fightin£r Island,... .. 6 

DetroitrMich 12 



Miles. 
From Buffalo to Stur- 
geon Point, N. Y.. 10 

Cattaraugus 10 

Dunkirk, 13 

Van Buren, 2 

Portland, 16 

Eurgett's Town, Pen. 18 

Erie, 17 

Fairvicw, ,, 11 

Ashtabula, Ohio, .... 28 

Dunkirk, N. Y., is at present a small village ; but 
its fine harbor, which is frequently clear of ice much 
earlier in the season than the Buffalo harbor, together 
with the termination of the New- York and Erie rail 
road within its precincts, will soon render it a place of 
much commerce and importance. 

Van Buren, 2 miles farther, is a new and flourish- 
ing village, handsomely laid out, and is destined to be 
a place of considerable trade. 

Portland, 16 miles. 

Burgett's Town, Penn. 18. 

Erie, 17 miles farther, contains a court house, 2 
banks, 5 churches, and about 2500 inhabitants, and in 
its local advantages is equalled by few towns in the in- 
terior. Besides a -water communication with all the 
towns on the western lakes, it is the terminating point 
of the Pennsylvania canal, which connects Philadel- 
phia and Pittsburgh with Lake Erie. It is also to be 
the terminating point of the Philadelphia, Northumber- 



FROM BUFFALO TO DETROIT. 2G3 

land and Erie rail road. The village is distant from 
Pittsburgh 120 miles, and from Philadelphia 380. 

Fairview, 11 miles. 

Ashtabula, Ohio, 23 miles. It has a good harbor 
and is a thriving village. 

Fairport, 32 miles, is located at the junction of 
Grand river with the lake. 

Cleveland, 30 miles. It is the capital of Cuyahoga 
county, and is handsomely situated at the mouth of a 
creek of that name. From a small village, it has with- 
in a few years attained an astonishing growth, and is 
now one of the most prominent towns in the state. 
This may be attributed, in a great measure, to the ter- 
mination of the Ohio and Erie canal at this place — thus 
rendering it not only a point of great commerce with 
the lake, but also with the Ohio river. 

The entire length of this canal is 307 miles. Com- 
mencing at the mouth of the Cuyahoga, 568 feet above 
the Ohio river, it follows the bank of that river 37 
miles ; from whence it crosses Portage summit to the 
Tuscaraw^as river, along the banks of which it descends 
to the Tomoka creek. Ascending this creek for a 
short distance, it crosses over to the Licking river, a 
branch of the Muskingum, which it ascends to a point 
on the South Fork, a few miles soutii of Newark ; 
thence it crosses over to Walnut creek, a small stream 
which falls into the Scioto ; after reaching that river, it 
descends along the eastern bank to Circleville, and 
there crosses over to the west bank, along which it de- 
scends, passing ChilUcothe, to the mouth of the Scioto 

1- o 



2G4 



rnOM BUFFALO TO DETROIT. 



at Portsmouth. The dimensions are similar to those of 
tiie N. York Erie canal. Lockage 1135 feet. Pack- 
ets run daily on the canal, reaching Portsmouth in 
about 3i days ; from whence steam-boats are taken for 
Cincinnati, Louisville, and New-Orleans.* 

From Cleaveland to Sanduskt, by steam-boat, the 
distance is 54 miles. The village is handsomely locat- 



*To travellers who design an excursion to Cincinnati, 
or to Columbus, the seat of government of the state, 
the following table of distances on this canal will be 
useful : 



Miles. 
From Cleveland to the 
CuyahogaAqueduct, 22 

Old 'Portage, 12 

Akron, 4 

New-Portage, 5 

Clinton, 11 

Mazillow, 11 

Bethlehem. 6 

Bolivar, 8 

Zoar, 3 

Dover, 7 

N.Philadelphia, 4 

New-Com.er's town,.. 22 



J\Iiles. 

Irville, 26 

Newark, 13 

Hebron, 10 

Licking Summit, .. .. 5 

LancasterCanaan,. .. 11 

CoLUMBr>, (side cut,) 18 

Bloomfield, 8 

ClRCLEVILLE. 9 

Chillicothe, 23 

Piketon, 25 

Lucasville, 14 

Portsmouth, (Ohio 

river,) 13 



Coshocton, 17 

From Portsmouth, the distance by steam-boat to 
Cincinnati is 113 miles, as follows : Yanceburgh, Ken. 
20— Manchester, Ohio, IG— Maysville, Ken. 11 — 
Charleston, Ken. 4 — Ripley, Ohio, 6 — Augusta, Ken. 
8 — Neville, Ohio, 7 — Moscow, Ohio, 7 — Point Pleas- 
ant, Ohio, 4 — New Richmond, Ohio, 7 — Columbia, 
Ohio, 15 — Fulton, Ohio, 6 — Cincinnati, Ohio, 2. From 
the latter place to Lou.sville, Ken., the distance is 143 
miles ; from thence to the junction of the Ohiowith the 
Mississippi river, 366 ; and from thence to New-Or- 
leans, 1284 miles. 



FROM BUFFALO TO DETROIT. 265 

ed on the south shore of Sandusky Bay, 3 miles from 
its entrance, and is a flourishing town. A rail road is 
constructing from this place to Dayton, on the Miami 
canal. It will be 153 miles long, and when completed, 
M'illform a rail road and water communication between 
Lake Erie and the Ohio river. 

Amherstburgh, U. Canada, (mouth of the Detroit 
river) 52 miles. It was more particularly known dur- 
ing the last war between the U. S. and Great Britain 
as a locality of some importance by the name of Maiden. 
On the opposite side of the river is shown the battle 
ground of Brownstown, where the Americans, under 
disadvantageous circumstances, and with shght a loss, 
routed the British force. The former were on their 
way to relieve the fort at Frenchtow^n, a short distance 
below ; and in a narrow pass, where escape was im- 
possible, the British were posted to receive them. The 
artillery of the latter was stationed directly in front on 
a rise commanding the road ; on the right flank were 
the regulars and on the left the Indians, secreted in the 
woods. The Americans, under Gen. Miller, approach- 
ed and were almost entrapped when the enemy was 
discovered. With the rapidity of thought the regulars 
were charged and soon driven on to the cannon — the 
cannoniers afiaid to apply the match against their own 
friends, threw away their linestocks and fled. The 
Indian opponents were soon dispersed, and confusion 
and total flight ensued. The Americans collected the 
spoil and pursued their way ; but they came too late. 
The massacre at Frenchtown had been perpetrated ; 
and the b'oncs of seven hundred of the noblest sons of 
Kentucky lay bleaching on the earth, the victims of 



266 DETROIT. 

the most wanton perfidy. Their fate, however, was 
soon afterwards avenged at the battle of the Thames. 

Detroit is 18 miles from Amherstburgh. In natu- 
ral beauty and advantages of locality, it is surpassed by 
few cities at the west. The greater part of the town is 
situated on a bluff terminating a few feet from the wa- 
ter, in a very extensive and beautiful plain. As the 
boat approaches the city, the shores display a succes- 
sion of handsome country seats, and the to^vn exhibits 
an imposing appearance. Jefferson Avenue, extend- 
ing along the river about a mile and a half, with 
its neat buildings, shaded with forest trees, its bus- 
tle, hfc and gay equipages, is justly the pride of every 
inhabitant. There are few streets, indeed, in any city 
of equal beauty, or possessing greater interest. For- 
merly, it was principally lined with low French dwell- 
ings ; but these have gi\en place to those of modern 
style and improved architecture. The business and 
population of the city, and the value of real estate, have 
greatly increased within 2 or 3 years — many lots hav- 
ing been sold for more than 1000 per cent, above their 
former prices. So long as the present tide of emigra- 
tion shall continue to Michigan, Illinois and Wiscon- 
sin, and Detroit remain the thoroughfare of this mov- 
ing mass, and also the emporium of trade for all the 
upper lake country, it must of necessity increase in 
wealth and importance. Its present population is from 
10 to 12,000. 

Stages leave Detroit daily for the mouth of the St. 
Joseph's river, emptying into Lake Michigan, distant 
202 miles ; from whence a steam-boat can be taken for 



DETROIT — ST. JOSEPH. 367 

Chicago, Illinois, 92 miles farther. The route, by land, 
is over what is termed the trovernment road, and passes 
through the village of La Fayette, 12 miles ; Ypsalanti, 
20 miles ; Jonesville, 6S miles ; Coklvvater, 20 miles ; 
Sturge's Prairie, 25 miles; Mottville, 17 miles; from 
whence to the mouth of the St. Joseph is 40 miles. 
Most of the villages are new, but flourishing ; and the 
ifcrests are daily giving place to cultivation. 

The town of St. Joseph, located at the mouth of the 
river, (which is navigable for steam-boats for 50 miles) 
is rapidly increasing in population, and will soon be- 
come a place of much importance. Its harbor is good, 
and it has been selected as the terminating point of the 
public improvements which are to extend from Detroit 
across the peninsula. 

Steam-boats also leave Detroit once a fortnight, by 
way of Lake Huron, for Chicago, touching on the 
route at the mouth of St. Clair river, 40 miles. Palmer 
17, Fort Gratiot 14, White Rock 40, Thunder Island 
70, Middle Island 25, Presque Isle 65, Mackinaw 58, 
Isle Brule 75, Fort Howard (Wisconsin Territory) 100, 
and Milwaukee (W. T.) 310 miles; from whence to 
Chicago is 90 miles. 

But the more common route, and especially for those 
who are desirous of visiting Detroit as well as Chicago, 
is to take a steam-boat for Toledo, and from thence 
complete the excursion by rail road, stage and steam^ 
boat, as follows : 



268 TOLEDO — ADRIEN — TECUMSEH. 



FROM DETROIT TO CHICAGO, 

Via Toledo—SOd miles. 



Miles. 
Niles, 100 

Michigan City, (Ind.) 40 

By steam-hoat. 
Chicago, (Illinois,) . . 55 



Miles. 
By steum-boat. 
Detroit to Toledo, .. . 71 
By rail road. * 

Adrien, (Ohio,) 33 

By stage. 
Tecumseh, 10 { 

Toledo. 71 miles from Detroit,is the terminating point 
of the steam boat passage. It is located on the Maumee 
river, nine miles from its junction with Lake Erie, and 
is within what has heretofore been termed the disputed 
territory between Ohio and Michigan. In 1834, the 
space now occupied for the village, with a slight excep- 
tion, was a dense forest. Now it numbers between 
two and three thousand inhabitants. Only one large 
steam boat entered the river that year ; in 1836, there 
were more than 600 arrivals of boats and schooners, 
besides small craft ; and there had then been erected 
G extensive ware houses, 41 stores, 6 hotels, and others 
were in a state of forwardness. From its location, it 
cannot be otherwise than a place of much importance. 

Adrien, 33 miles, is the present termination of the 
rail road. 

Tecumseh, 10 miles farther, is a flourishing village 
of between two and three thousand inhabitants. Be- 
tween Tecumseh and 



* This road is soon to be completed to Michigan 
city. 



MICHIGAN CITT — CHICAGO. 269 

NiLES, which is 100 miles, there are very few villages 
of importance. The country, however, is rapidly im- 
proving, and will ere long be settled with an extensive 
population. The village of Niles is located on the 
St. Joseph's river, and contains a population of about 
1500 inhabitants. 

Michigan City (Indiana) is 40 miles farther, and is 
the termination of the stage route, (unless, indeed, the 
traveller prefers passing around the southern extremity 
of the lake.) The town is situated on the south-east- 
ern corner of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Trail 
creek, in a glen, surrounded by sand hills. It is the 
only point where Indiana sends any stream into the 
Lake, and consequently the only spot where, by any 
possibility, she can build a city. In 1834, the place 
contained only a solitary family ; now it has a popula- 
tion of 1500, and its business operations are very ex- 
tensive. It is the commercial depot for the entire north 
of Indiana — her emporium — and the great mart for 
her produce. A canal from this place, to unite with 
the Wabash and Erie canal at Fort Wayne, on the 
Maumee, is in progress. The stock has also been 
subscribed for a canal from Michigan city to Kenka- 
kee river, uniting with the Illinois and Michigan canal. 
From Michigan city to 

Chicago, (Illinois,) the distance across the lake is 
55 miles. It is located on the Chicago river, at its 
junction with the lake, at that precise point on the 
great chain of northern lakes which is most nearly 
approached by the Mississippi river. The Illinois river, 



270 CHICAGO. 

through one of its branches, approaches within ten 
miles of Chicago. Through its whole course, from 
near the junction of the two streams, by which it is 
formed to its mouth, navigation is unimpeded ; and 
when connected with the waters of the great chain of 
lakes by the Ilhnois and Michigan canal, whose com- 
mencement was celebrated on ihe 4th of July, 1838, a 
line of internal communication between the waters of 
the Atlantic and Mississippi will be completed, which 
must be the vehicle of a vast commerce, bearing the 
mineral and agricultural resources of one of the most 
fertile regions of the Union to an eastern market, and 
recompensing the producer of the west with the com- 
forts and luxuries of other and distant climes, Chica- 
go, it will be seen by reference to the map, will be the 
thoroughfare of this commercial intercourse ; and to 
this calculation, though but recently made, may be 
attributed its unparalleled growth. In 1S33, there 
were but a few scattering tenements in the place, and 
only four or five arrivals from the lower lakes. In 1S3S, 
the number amounted to 456, the buildings to more 
than 1000, and the population to nearly 5000. It al- 
ready contains 6 churches, a bank, and a marine and 
fire insurance company ; and its stores, ware houses 
and public buildings are continually augmenting. 

By far the fairest portion of the site of Chicago is 
now occupied by Fort Dearborn, and is the property ot 
the United States. It is the southern angle formed by 
the river and the lake; the surface high, level and dry, 
extending nearly eighty rods up the river, and one 
hundred and sixty on the lake. The public works, 
with the necessary exercise and laboring grounds com- 



CHICAGO. 271 

prisG eighty acres. It is in contemplation to remove 
the garrison from Dearborn, dismantle the fortifica- 
tions, and to extract this thorn from the side of Chicago. 
When this is thrown into market, if the present ra»e 
for speculation shall have subsided, it will burst forth 
with renewed power and energy; fortunes will then 
be made, and the reaction, if ever, will be subsequent 
to that period. 

Steam-boats leave Chicago daily for various ports on 
the lake ; a visit to none of which, for a short excur- 
sion, will prove more interesting than that of Milwau- 
kee, (Wisconsin Territory,) 80 miles in a northerly 
direction. It is the largest town in the territory, though, 
hke most of the western villages, its origin is very re- 
cent. In 1835, it was scarcely known. During the 
following year, it numbered 1300 inhabitants. It is 
eituated at the mouth of Milwaukee river, and must, in 
time, in consequence of the fertility of the soil by which 
it is surrounded, and the advantages which it possesses 
of a fine natural harbor, be one of the most important 
cities of the west. 

Stages leave Chicago daily for Galena, (the locality 
of the celebrated lead mines,) 100 miles v/est, on the 
Mississippi river, to which a rail road is about being 
constructed. 

Stages also leave daily in a SW. direction, for Peru, 
the head of steam-boat navigation on the Illinois river, 
passing through Juliette, a flourishing village, 30 miles 
distant ; Ottawa, at the junction of the Fox river with 
the Illinois, 53 miles farther ; from whence to Peru is 
17 miles. This is to be the terminating point of a 
canal from Chicago, and also of what is termed the 

Y 



272 FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA PALLS. 

central rail road, commencing near the junction of the 
Ohio with the Mississippi river, and must become an 
important town. From Peru, steam-boats are taker, 
for Peoria, 60 miles distant ; also for Alton, on the Mis- 
sissippi, (3 miles above the mouth of the Missouri,) 149 
miles farther; from whence to St^. ^o.^^'j^''^ 
At Alton, a stage can be taken daily tor Vandaha, the 
present seat of government of lUinois, 50 miles, m an 
easterly direction. From Vandalia, down the Kaskas- 
kia river, to the village of thatname, is 95 miles; ^om 
whence lo the junction of the Kaskaskia with the Mis- 
sissippi is 11 miles; and from thence to the mouth of 
the Ohio river, 100 miles. 

FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, 
On the American side. 
A rail road carriage is taken twice a day, passing 
throuah the village of Black Rock 3 miles, Tonawanda 
9 mlle^ (where the canal enters theTonawanda creek ) 
Niagara Falls U miles. The time employed in reach- 
ing the Falls, by locomotive, is an hour and a half. 
On the Canada side. 
After reaching Black Rock, the river, which is a mile 
wide, is crossed in a horse boat to Waterloo ; from 
whence to the Chippewa battle ground is 15 miles, 
Chippewa village 1 mile, Niagara Falls 2 miles. 

Black Rock, three miles from Buffalo, is a village of 
considerable magnitude on the ^««\^-^^^[f ^.^"f" 
ara river. It was burnt by the British in 1814; kit ha« 
been rebuilt, and is much increased from its forme. 



■WATERLOO. 273 

sae. Among its prominent buildings is tlie mansion 
lately owned by Gen. Peter B. Porter, formerly secre- 
tary of v/ar, which has a very handsome appearance 
from the water. A pier in the river, about 2 miles long^, 
affords a harbor to the village, and is used as a pari of 
the grand canal. The dam, however, has been found 
insufficient to withstand the force of the current. Re- 
peated injuries are sustained, and vessels now seldom 
enter the harbor. Opposite Black Rock, on the Can- 
ada side, is the small village of 

Waterloo ; a little south of which stand the ruins 
of Fort Erie, rendered memorable as the theatre of 
several severe engagements during the last war. The 
last and most decisive battle fought at this place, was 
on the night of the 15th of August, 1814. The fort 
was occupied by the Americans; and its possession 
was considered an object of importance to the British. 
Taking advantage of the darkness of the night, they 
made repeated and furious assaults, and were as often 
repulsed ; until, at length, they succeeded, by superior 
force, in gaining a bastion. After maintaining it for a 
short time, at the expense of many lives, accident placed 
it asrain in the hands of the Americans. Several car- 
tridges which had been placed in a stone building ad- 
joining exploded, producing tremendous slaughter and 
death among the British. They soon retreated, leav- 
ing on the field 221 killed, among whom were Cols, 
Scott and Drummond, 174 wounded, and 186 prisoners. 
The American loss was 17 killed, 56 wounded, and 11 
missing. 

This action was followed by a splendid sortie near 



274 CHIPPEWA BATTLE GROUND. 

the fort on the 17th of the following month, which re- 
sulted in a loss to the British of near 1000, including 
385 prisoners, and to the Americans of 511 killed, 
wounded and missing. 

From Waterloo to Chippewa Battle Ground is 
15 miles, over a tolerably good, though sandy road. 

The Battle of Chippeiva was fought on the 5tli of July, 
1S14, and has been described as one of the most bril- 
liant spectacles that could well be conceived. The 
day (says a writer) was clear and bright; and the plain 
Buch as might have been selected for a parade or a 
tournament; the troops on both sides, though not nu- 
merous, admirably disciplined ; the generals leading on 
their columns in person ; the glitter of the arms in the 
sun, and the precision and distinctness of every move- 
ment, were all calculated to carry the mind back to 
the scenes of ancient story or poetry — to the plains of 
Latium or of Troy, and all those recollections which fill 
the imagination with images of personal heroism and 
romantic valor. 

After some skirmishing, tho British Indians were 
discovered in the rear of the American camp. Gen. 
Porter, with his volunteers and Indians, were directed 
to scour in the adjoining forest. This force had nearly 
debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when 
it was ascertained that the whole British force, under 
Gen. Riall, had crossed the Chippewa bridge. Gen. 
Brown gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance 
with his brigade, and to Gen. Ripley to be in readiness 
to support. In a few minutes, the British line w^as dis- 
covered formed and rapidly advancing, their right on 
tho woods, and their left on the river. Their object 



CHrPPEWA VILLAGE — BRIDGETVATER. 275 

was to gain the bridge across a small creek in front of 
the American encampment, which, if done, would have 
compelled the Americans to retire. The bridge, how- 
ever, was soon g-ained by Gen. Scott and crossed, un- 
der a tremendous fire of the British artillery, and his 
line formed. The British orders were to give one vol- 
ley at a distance, and immediately charge. But such 
was the warmth of our musquetry that they could not 
withstand it, and were obliged to retreat before the ap- 
pearance of Ripley's brigade, which had been directed 
lo make a movement through the woods upon the ene- 
my's right flank. The British recrossed the Chippewa 
bridge, which they broke down on their retreat, having 
suffered a loss in killed, wounded and missing, of 514. 
The American loss was 328. 

Chippewa Village is one mile north of the battle 
ground. It contains a small cluster of buildings and a 
few mills situate on the Chippev/a creek, which runs 
through the village. One mile farther is 

Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, celebrated as the 
ground on which an important battle was fought, 20 
days after the battle of Chippewa. The scene of ac- 
tion was near the mighty cataract of Niagara, within 
the sound of its thunders, and was, in proportion to the 
numbers engaged, the most sanguinary, and decidedly 
the best fought of any action which ever took place on 
the American continent. The following letter, written 
by a surgeon of one of the regiments, the day after the 
engagement, contains many interesting particulars ; 

^Vln the afternoon, the enemy advanced toward* 

¥2 



276 BRIDGEWATER. 

Chippewa with a powerful force. At 6 o'clock, Gen, 
Scott was ordered to advance with his brigade and at- 
tack them. He was soon reinforced by General Rip- 
ley's brigade ; they met the enemy below the Falls. 
They had selected their ground for the night, intend- 
ing to attack our camp before day-light. The action 
began just before 7, and an uninterrupted stream of 
musketry continued till half past 8, when there was 
some cessation, the British falling back. It soon be- 
gan again with some artillery, which, with slight inter- 
ruptions, continued till half past 10, when there was a 
charge, and a tremendous stream of fire closed the con- 
flict. Both armies fought with a desperation bordering 
on madness ; neither would yield the palm, but each 
retired a short distance, wearied out with fatigue. 
Such a constant and destn-ctive fire was never before 
sustained by American troops v/ithout faUing back. 

" The enemy had collected their whole force in the 
peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord 
Wellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For 
two hours the two hostile lines were within 20 yards of 
each other, and so H-equently intermingled, that often 
an officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon 
shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like 
the Glengarian regiment caused the deception. They 
frequently charged, and v;ere as often driven back. 
Our regiment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to 
storm the British battery. We charged, and took eve- 
ry piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept possession 
of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at night, 
when we all fell back more than two miles. This was 
done to secure our camp, which might otherwise have 



BURNING ePRINC. 277 

been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of 
them killed, and there being no ropes to the pieces, wc 
got off but two or three. The m.en were so excessive- 
ly fatigued they could not drag them. We lost one 
howitzer; the horses being on full gallop towards the 
enemy to attack them, the riders were shot off and the 
horses ran through the enemy's line. We lost one 
piece of cannon, which was too much advanced, every 
man being shot that had charge of it but two. Seve- 
ral of our caissons were blown up by their rockets, 
which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of 
ammunition. The lines were so near that cannon could 
not be used with advantage." 

The British loss in killed, wounded and prisoners 
was 87S, and the American loss 860. 

The road to the Falls, passes directly over the hill 
where the British artillery was posted at the time 
Scott's brigade commenced the action ; and the houses 
in the village of Bridgewater — the trees and fences in 
the vicinity, still retain marks of the combat. Many 
graves are seen upon the hill ; among others that of 
Capt. Hull, son of the late Gen. Hull, who distinguish- 
ed himself and fell in this action. Most of the slain 
were collected and burned upon the battle ground ; on 
which spot it is in contempletion to erect a church. 

BURNING SPRING. 

About half a mile north of Lundy's Lane, and within 
a few feet of the rapids in the Niagara river, is a Burn- 
ing Spring. The water is warm and surcharged with 
sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The water rises in a bar- 
rel, which is covered, and the gas escapes through a 



278 NIAGARA FALLS. 

tube. On applying a candle to the tube, the gas takes 
fire, and burns with a brilliant flame until blown out; 
and on closing the building for a short time in which 
the spring is contained, and afterwards entering it with 
a lighted candle, an explosion may be produced. A 
small fee for the exhibition is required by the keeper of 
the spring. 

Half a mile from the Burning Spring are the cele- 
brated 

NIAGARA FALILS. 

They are situated on the Niagara river, which unites 
the waters of Lake Erie and the upper lakes with Lake 
Ontario and the St. Lawrence. The river is 35 miles in 
length, and from half a mile to 5 or 6 miles in width. 
The banks of the river vary in their height above the 
Falls, from four to 100 feet. Immediately below the 
Falls, the precipice is not less than 300 feet, and from 
thence to Lake Ontario it gradually diminishes to the 
height of 25 or 30 feet. The Niagara river contains a 
number of islands, the principal of which is Grand Isl- 
and, which w'as ceded to the state of New- York by 
the Seneca nation of Lidians, in IS 15. For the grant 
the state paid ^1000 down, and secured an annuity of 
$500. This island is 12 miles long, and from 2 to 7 
broad. 

The Falls are situated below Grand Island, about 20 
miles distant from Lake Erie, and 14 from Lake Onta- 
rio. At Ciiippewa creek, 2 miles above the Falls, the 
width of the river is nearly 2 miles, and its current ex- 
tremely rapid. From thence to the Falls it gradually 
narrows to about I mile in width. The descent of the 



NIAGARA FALLS. 279 

rapids has been estimated at 58 feet. The course of the 
river above the Falls is north-westwardly, and below it 
turns abruptly to the northeast, flowing about a mile 
and a half, when it assumes a northern direction to 
Lake Ontario. The cataract pours over a summit in 
the form of a crescent, extending some distance up tho 
stream. The sheet of water is separated by Goat Isl- 
and, leaving the grand fall on the Canada side about 
600 yards wide, and the high fall on the American side 
about 300. The fall on the American side drops al- 
most perpendicularly to the distance of 164 feet. The 
grand or horse-shoe fall, on the Canada side, descends 
to the river below in the form of a curve, 153 feet, pro- 
jecting about 50 feet from the base. The whole height, 
including the descent of the rapids above, is 216 feet. 
On the Canada side. 
The view from the table rock has been generally 
considered preferable ; but this point must be decided 
by the different tastes of visitors. The table rock pro- 
jects about 50 feet, and between it and the Falls an ir- 
regular arch is formed, which extends under the pitch 
almost without interruption, to the island. The de- 
scent from the table rock is by means of a spiral stair- 
way, which is enclosed. Visitants desirous of passing 
in the rear of the great sheet of water, are supplied by 
the keeper of the stairs with dresses for that purpose, 
and with a guide. On reaching the bottom a rough 
path winds along tho foot of the precipice and leads 
under the excavated bank, which, in one place, over- 
hangs about 40 feet. The entrance into the tremen- 
dous cavern behind tho falling sheet, should never be 
attempted by persons of weak nerves. The humidity 



280 NIAGARA FALLS. 

of the atmosphere, which, at times, almost prevents 
respiration ; the deafening roar of the foaming torrent, 
and the sombre appearance of surrounding objects, is 
oftentimes calculated to unnerve the stoutest frame. 
The farthest distance that can be approached, is to 
what is called Termination Rock, 153 feet from the com- 
mencement of the volume of water at Table Rock. 
Few, however, have the courage, to proceed that dis- 
tance, and seldom go farther than 100 feet. 

A large crack in the table rock, which has increased 
annually for some yenrs, renders it very certain that a 
considerable proportion will ere long fall into the abyss 
below. The part thus cracked is nearly 50 feet in 
width, and might be blasted off without difficulty. The 
height of this rock has been ascertained to be 163 feet ; 
while that of the Falls, measuring from the bridge near 
the terrapin rocks, has proved to be 158 feet 4 ijiches. 

The Pavilion, on the Canada side, is on a lofty emi- 
nence above the Falls; affording from its piazzas and 
roof a beautiful prospect of the surrounding scenery. 
It is a handsomely constructed building, and can ac- 
commodate from 100 to 150 guests. Connected with 
the esiabhshment is a platform along what is called the 
upper bank, between the house and river, giving an 
easy descent to the Table Rock. This with the stair 
case from the rock to the bank below, affurds a pleas- 
ant and safe means of obtaining one of the best views 
of the Falls. 

From the Table Rock the traveller passes by the 
museum along the wooded bank of the river, until he 
arrives at the road leading down to the Ferry House, 
half a mile below the Horse Shoe FalU At this point 



niaga:ia falls. 28J 

of the road he obtains a full view of the plot designed 
for the village of "Clifton." When the "Crescent" 
shall be occupied by tasteful cottages, and a little 
shrubbery added to the beautiful trees and plants which 
grow luxuriantly at present along its front, there will 
be few retreats more desirable, more picturesque, or 
healthful, as a summer residence, than this spot. 

From the " Clifton House," a large and handsomely 
furnished public establishment, located at the com- 
mencement of the ferry road, a splendid view of both 
falls, the river, islands, &c. may be had. Row boats 
are continually crossing the river from the termination 
of this road. The rapidity of the current, the numer- 
ous eddies, and the agitated appearance of the water, 
are calculated to impress a stranger with the idea that 
a passage is hazardous ; but we believe few if any 
accidents have ever happened. The boatmen are skil- 
ful, and the crossing is generally effected in about 15 
minutes. 

The Falls on the Jlmerican side, 

Though less gigantic, are nevertheless beautiful j 
and would alone be considered one of the greatest nat- 
ural curiosities in the world. A flight of stairs has been 
constructed from the bank a few rods below the falls to 
the bottom. In consequence of a rocky barrier in front 
of the falling sheet, it can be approached to within a 
few feet ; though not without encountering a plentiful 
shower of the spray. About a quarter of a mile above 
the fall a bridge has been construceed from the shore 
to Bath Island ; which is connected by means of anoth- 
er bridge with Goat Island. The sensation in crossing 



SS2 NIAGARA PALLS. 

these bridges, and particularly the first,* over the fre-' 
mendous rapids beneath, is calculated to alarm the 
traveller for his safety, and hasten him in his excursion 
to the Island. On Bath Island, mills have been erect- 
ed, contiguous to what is termed the race-ivay, v.'hich 
divides Bath from Goat Island. The latter, which is 
330 yards broad, is principally a wilderness. On the 
southern and western banks an extensive view is had 
of the rapids above and of the grand fall on the Canada 
side. But the best view of the latter is obtained from a 
small bridge which has been erected from the island to 
the Terrapin rocks, adjoining the falls, 300 feet from the 
shore. From the end of this bridge, which is placed on 
the very verge of the precipice, the frightful abyss, cov- 
ered with a foam of snowy whiteness, is seen beneath. 

* Gen. Peter B. Porter, to whom the public are in- 
debted for the construction of this bridge, informed me 
that its erection was not effected without considerable 
danger. Two large trees, hewed to correspond with 
their shape, were first constructed into a temporary 
bridge, the huts fastened to the shore, with the lightest 
ends projecting over the rapids. At the extremity of 
the projection, a small pier of stone was first placed in 
the river, and when this became secure, lo^s were sunk 
around it, locked in such a manner as to form a frame, 
which v/as filled with stone. A bridge was then made 
to this pier, the temporary bridge shoved forward, and 
another pier formed, until the whole was completed. 
One man fell into the rapids during the work. At first, 
owing to the velocity with which he was carried for- 
ward, he was unable to hold upon the projecting rocks; 
but through great bodily exertions to lessen the motion, 
by swimming against the current, he was enabled to 
seize upon a rock, from which he was taken by means 
of a rope. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 283 

No one can witness it at first, without involuntarily 
shrinking back. A fear that the frail structure on which 
he stands may possibly give way, induces him to re- 
trace his steps with as little delay as practicable; and 
it is not until after repeated visits, that this alarm 
wholly subsides. S ifi.-J:^.lL}]xx^\i, w-^C-wi.^ 

At the foot of Iris Island (^|oiHi^ ,Goat Island) is 
what is called the Biddle stair-way, erected by N. Bid- 
DLE, Esq. president of the U. S. Bank. This affords 
a safe and easy passage to a position more favorable 
than any other for viewing this stupendous work of 
nature. The elevation of the island above the margin 
of the river or basin below, is 185 feet. The descent of 
the first 40 feet is effected by a flight of steps, commen- 
cing in the interior of the island, and descending in a 
rapid declivity to the brow of the perpendicular work, 
through a dugway walled on both sides ; the second 
flight is by a spiral stair way of 88 steps, down a per- 
pendicular building in the shape of a hexicon, resting 
on a firm foundation — the whole handsomely enclosed. 
From the foot of this building to the river below, (about 
80 feet,) aro three paths formed of stone steps, and 
leading to the water in different directions.* 

The amount of water which passes over the respec- 
tive falls has been estimated by Dr. Dwight at more 
than 100 millions of tons an hour ! No method can be 
devised for ascertaining the depth at the principal fall ; 



* It was from ladders erected at this place that the 
celebrated Sam Patch made a descent of 118 feet into 
the water below, a short time previous to his fatal leap 
at Rochester, in the fall of 1829. 



284 NIAGARA FALLS. 

but it is not improbable that it may be 6 or 800 feet ; as 
the depth of the stream half a mile below is from 250 to 
280 feet. 

To a stranger who shall examine the rapids above 
the falls, it will seem incredible that Goat Island should 
ever have been visited previous to the construction of 
the bridge. Yet as early as 1765,* several French offi- 
cers were conveyed to it by Indians in canoes, care- 
fully dropping down the river; and it is but a few 
years since Gen. Porter, of Black Rock, with some oth- 
er gentlemen, also made a trip to the Island in a boat. 
They found but little trouble in descending ; but their 
return was difficult and hazardous. It was effected by 
shoving the boat with setting poles up the most shallow 
part of the current, for half a mile, before making for 
the shore. 

Falling into the current within a mile of the falls, is 
considered fatal. Several accidents of this kind have 
happened ; and no one (save in the instance mention- 
ed in a preceding page) has ever reached the shore. 
Many bodies have been found below the falls — thoso 
that have fallen in the centre of the stream, without 
any external marks of injury ; and those that have 
fallen near the shore, much lacerated and disfigured. 
The latter has probably been occasioned by coming in 
contact with rocks in shallow water, before reaching 
the cataract. It is but a few years since an Indian, 
partially intoxicated, in attempting to cross the river 
near Chippewa, was forced near the rapids ; when, 



* Trees marked 1765 and 1769, are still to be seen 
on the island. 



WELLAND CANAL. 285 

finding all efforts to regain the shore unavailing, he lay 
down in his canoe, and was soon plunged into the 
tremendous vortex below. He was never seen after- 
wards. 

There are two respectable boarding establishments 
on the American side, in what is called the village of 
Manchester; and a third, on a much larger scale, has 
been commenced, and will soon be completed. The 
village was burnt by the British in 1813; but it has 
been rebuilt, and though small, is larger than it was 
previous to that event. 

In giving a general description of the Falls, we have, 
in crossing to the American side, diverged from our 
proposed route. While on the Canada shore, it is re- 
commended to the tourist to visit the Deep Cut on the 
Welland canal, eight miles west of the Falls ; return ; 
proceed down the Niagara river through Ciueenston to 
Fort George or Newark ; cross over to Fort Niagara or 
Youngstown, and proceed up the river, through Lew- 
iston to Manchester. For a short excursion, there are 
many objects of attraction on this route, which are no- 
ticed hereafter. 

The Welland Canal unites the \vaters of Lakes 
Erie and Ontario, and is constructed for sloops of !25 
tons burthen. The canal commences at Port Mait- 
land, at the mouth of the Grand river on Lake Erie, 40 
miles west of Buffalo, and follows the channel of that 
stream nearly a mile and a lialf, and thence up Broad 
creek nearly a mile, where the artincial channel com- 
mences by a cut of 10 miles through a marsh. It then 
proceeds down mill creek 2^ miles until it intersects 



236 WELLAND CANAL. 

the Welland river, into which it descends by a lock of 
eight feet Hft ; thence a towing path is constructed 
along the banks 10 miles — the marsh excavation from 
10 to 16 feet. From V/elland river the canal runs in a 
northerly direction winding up a ravine 66 chains, hav- 
ing 8 or 10 feet cutting; where commences the deep 
cutting or dividing ridge, an almost abrupt height of 27 
feet above the canal bottom. It thence runs gradually 
to 56 feet 6 inches in a distance of 100 chains ; thence 
descends to 30 feet in 28 chains, which as abruptly 
breaks off in another ravine; v/hole distance through 
the deep cut 1 mile 54 chains ; average depth 44 feet. 
To the depth of from 12 to IS feet from the surface, it 
is a compound of clay, mixed with sand, and below this 
a tenacious blue clay. From the termination of the 
deep cut to that part where the mountain descends, is 
a distance of 4 miles and 23 chains, to lock No. 1, as it 
is called, although it is properly lock No. 2. From 
lock No. 1 the canal continues in a ravine 53 chains, 
gradually descending by 4 locks of 22 feet w idth ; and 
thence for 1 mile and 55 chains it winds around the 
brow of a hill. There are 17 locks in this distance, 
and 60,000 yards of rock excavation. From this place 
the canal enters another ravine to St. Catharine's, a 
distance of 2^ miles, in which there are 12 locks. This 
may be termed the mountain descent, as in a distance 
of 4 miles and 72 J chains from lock No. 1, there are 
32 locks, with a declination of 322 feet, 22 feet wide 
and 100 feet in the pool. From this to Lake Ontario, a 
distance of 5 miles, the canal is mostly in the bed of 
the Twelve Mile creek. 
The whole length of this canal is 43j^ miles, a little 



BATTLE OF QUEENSTOV. 287 

snore than 19 of which are slack water; the total 
amount of lockage 334 feet. 

The Deep Cut is considered the most gigantic artifi- 
cial work in America, if we except the Desague near 
Mexico ; and with the precipice of locks which descend 
the mountain ridge, forms altogether one of the most 
interesting improvements of the age. 

From the Falls on the Canada side to CIueenston, 
the distance is 7 miles, over a good road which passes 
the former residence of the Duke of Richmond, since 
owned by Sir Peregrine Mailland. Q,ueenston lies on 
the bank of the Niagara, and has little in its appear- 
ance indicating a prosperous or thriving village. 

The Battle of Q,iieenston, which was fought at this 
place, occurred on the 13th of Oct. 1812. Gen. Van 
Rensselaer, who had command of the American troops 
atLewiston, on the opposite side of the river, determin- 
ed on crossing over and taking possession of Queens- 
ton heights. The crossing was effected before day 
light; and the ascent, which v;as up a precipitous ra- 
vine, rising near 300 feet above the river, was accom- 
plished amid the fire of the enemy from his breast works 
on the heights. As the Americans approached, the 
British retreated to the village below ; where their com- 
mandant, Gen. Brock, in forming his lines to reascend 
the heights, was mortally wounded by a random shot. 
His aid. Col. M'Donald, then took command and as- 
cended the heights, where he was also wounded moi'- 
tally. The Americans continued in possession but a 
few hours, when they recrossed the river. The pickets 
and breast works, though in a state of decay, are still 
visible. 

«2 



233 brock's monument. 

The spot on wliicb Brock fell is pointed out to stran- 
gers. It was in a small fiekl, since called Brock's lot ; 
and is reserved for the erection of a church at a future 
period. 

brock's monument 

Is on the heights, one fourth of a mile southwest of 
the -village of Glueenston. It is composed of free stone ; 
and, excepting the base, is of a spiral form. It is a fine 
specimen of architecture ; and from its elevation, is 
seen for many miles around. Its height is 126 feet ; and 
the heights on which it is erected are 270 feet above 
the level of the Niagara river. The ascent to the top 
of the monument is by means of winding steps, 170 
in number. It is extremely fatiguing ; but the prospect 
afforded of the surrounding country, for 50 miles in ex- 
tent will richly repay the tourist for the time and trou- 
ble in visiting its pinnacle. The follovv'ing inscription 
appears on the monument : 

"The Legislature of Upper Canada has dedicated 
this monument to the many civil and military services 
of the late Sir Isaac Brock, Knight, Commander of 
the'most honorable Order of the Bath, Provincial Lieut. 
Governor and Major General, commanding his Majes- 
ty's forces therein. He fell in action on the 13th of 
October, 1812, honored and beloved by those whom he 
governed, and deplored by his Sovereign, to whose ser- 
vices his life had been devoted. His remains are depos- 
ited in this vault, as also his aid-de-camp, Lieut. Colo- 
nel John M'Donald, who died of his wounds the l4th 
of October, 1812, received the day before in action." 



LEWISTON. 289 

For-? George, or Newark, is seven miles north of 
Cluecnston, and is located at the entrance of the Niag- 
ara river into Lake Ontario. The village was burnt 
during the last war ; which event was followed by the 
burning of several frontier villages on the American 
shore, as retaliatory. Fort George, near the village, is 
the most prominent, and perhaps the only object of in- 
terest presented. It is in a state of tolerable preserva- 
tion, and has generally since the war been occupied as 
a garrison by a small number of soldiers. The river is 
crossed in a horse boat, to 

YouxGSTOwN, containing from 40 to 50 houses, one 
mile north of which, and directly opposite Newark, is 
Fort Niagara.* It was built by the French in 1725, 
passed into British hands by the conquest of Canada, 
and was surrendered to the U. States in 1796. It was 
taken by the British by surprise during the last war, 
and abandoned on the restoration of peace. The v.'orks 
are now in a state of decay. 

Lewiston is 7 miles south of Youngstown, and is 
directly opposite the villao-e of Glueenston. It is loca- 
ted at the foot and termination of the Mountain Ridge, 
or alluvial way, (noticed hereafter,) and at the head of 
navigation on the Niagara river. With the other fron- 
tier villages, it was laid in ruins during the late war, 
and was deserted by its inhabitants, from Dec. 1813, 
to April, 1815; but is now in a flourishing condition, 



* This is the place where the celebrated JVilliam 
Morgan was confined after his abduction. 



290 LEWISTON. 

and its buildings exhibit much taste and neatness. A 
ferry is estabhshed between this place and Q,ueenston, 
and a suspension bridge is soon to be erected, a com- 
pany having been chartered for that purpose, and the 
stock subscribed. In crossing the ferry, the boat is 
carried down for a considerable distance with much 
rapidity, but without danger. Every appearance con- 
firms the supposition, that at this place the falls once 
poured their immense volumes of water, but by a con- 
stant abrasion of the cataract, have receded to their 
present position, 7 miles distant. 

Stages leave Lewistown every morning for Roches- 
ter, distant SO miles, passing on the Ridge Road, or al- 
luvial way,* and reach Rochester at evening. Stages 

* This ridge extends along the south shore of Lake 
Ontario, tVomthe Genesee river to Niagara river, a dis- 
tance of about SO miles. The road is handsomely arch- 
ed in the centre, and is generally from 4 to 8 rods wide. 
In some places it is elevated 120 or 130 feet above the 
level of the lake, from which it is distant from 6 to 10 
miles. The first 40 miles from Lewiston, of this natu- 
ral highway, is broken for a considerable extent, by log 
roads or causeways, bordered by impervious forests, 
occasionally relieved by the temporary huts ofthe re- 
cent settlers; but the remaining distance is unusually 
level ; and, with some intermistions, bordered by a line 
of cultivation. It is generally believed that this was 
once the southern boundary of the lake, and that the 
ridge was occasioned by the action of the v.ater. The 
gravel and smooth stones, of which the ridge is com- 
posed, intermingled with a groat variety of shells, leave 
little room to doubt the correctness of this opinion. It 
is a great natural curiosity, and should be travelled 
over by the tourist in going to or returning from the 
Falls. 



devil's hole. 291 

also run to Lockport every day, distant 20 miles, (to 
which place a rail road is soon to be constructed,) pass- 
ing through the Tuscarora village, occupied by a tribe 
of Indians of that name.* 

In pursuing this rout from Lewiston to the Falls on 
the American side, the traveller soon begins to climb 
the heig-ht or mountain describing the difference of al- 
titude between Lakes Ontario and Erie. The ascent 
is somewhat precipitous, but is overcome without diffi- 
culty. At the distance of two miles, the top is gained, 
and affords an imposing prospect of the almost inter- 
minable expanse below. The course of the mighty 
Niagara is easily traced to its outlet: where, from their 
prominence, are distinctly seen. Forts Niagara and 
George. The waters of the distant lake and the sur- 
rounding plains are so charmingly picturesque, that the 
traveller M'ithdraws reluctantly, even to participate in 
the enjoyment of scenes more sublime. Three and a 
half miles from Lewistown is what is called the 

Devil's Hole, a most terrific gulf, formed by a 
chasm in the eastern bank of the Niagara, 150 or 200 
feet deep. An angle of this gulf is within a few feet 
of the road ; affording to the passing traveller, without 



* Doct Spafford, in his Gazeteer of New -York, re- 
marks, that this tribe came from North Carolina about 
1712, and joined the confederacy of the Five Nations, 
themselves making the Sixth. They still hold an in- 
terest in a very large and valuable tract of land in N, 
Carolina, which will not be extinct before A. D, 1911. 
They also own a very considerable tract of land in this 
state, deeded to them by the Holland Company. 



292 LAKE ONTARIO. 

alighting, an opportunity of looking into the yawning 
abyss beneath. During the French war, a detachment 
of the British army, whilst retreating from Schlosser in 
the night, before a superior force of French and Indians, 
were destroyed at this place. Officers, soldiers, wo- 
men and children, with their horses, waggons, bag- 
gage, &c. were all precipitated down the gulph. Those 
who were not drowned in the river were dashed in 
pieces on the naked rocks ! 

The Whirlpool is one mile farther south. It is 
formed by a short turn in the river, and can be viewed 
on either side: though the best view, connected with 
the rapids, is on the American shore. One mile far- 
ther, is a 

Sulphur Spring, used principally for bathing. 

The American Fall at Manchester, is a mile and a 
half farther, and has been already noticed in this work. 

LAKE ONTARIO. 

This lake is in length 171 miles, and in circumfer- 
ence 467. In many places its depth has not been as- 
certained. In the middle a line of 350 fathoms has 
been let down without finding bottom. Of the many 
islands which this lake contains, the principle is Grand 
Isle, opposite to Kingston. Al this place the lake is 
about 10 miles in v/idth, and from thence it gradually 
contracts until it reaches Brockville, a distance of about 
50 miles, where its width is not over 2 miles. About 
40 miles of this distance is filled with a continued clus- 



ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 293 

ter of small islands, which, from their number, have 
been distinguished by the name of the Thousand Isl- 
ands. 

Though inferior in extent to the remaining four great 
western lakes, Ontario is far from being the least inter- 
esting. The north-east shore of the lake consists prin- 
cipally of low land, and is in many places marshy. On 
the north and north-west it is more elevated, and grad- 
ually subsides towards the south. The margin of the 
lake is generally bordered by thick forests, through 
which are occasionally seen little settlements surround- 
ed with rich fields of cultivation, terminated by lofty 
ridges of land here and there assuming the character of 
mountains. Some of the highest elevations of land are 
the cliffs of Toronto, the Devil's Nose, and the Fifty 
Mile Hill. The principal rivers which empty into the 
lake on the south, are the Genesee and Oswego. — 
York, Kingston and Sackett's Harbor, all situated on 
the borders of the lake, are well known in connection 
with the history of the late war. 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 

Stages are taken at the Falls for Lewiston orGlueens- 
ton, seven miles distant; from whence a boat leaves 
Niagara three times a week, touching at all the prom- 
inent points on the American and Canada shores of the 
lake, and arriving either at Ogdensburgh or Prescott, 
on the St. Lawrence river, in two days ; from whence 
stages and steam-boats alternate to Montreal, which is 
reached the third day. The increase of travel, how- 
ever, on this route within a few years, renders it highly 
probable that a daily line will soon be established. The 



234 TORONTO — CHARLOTTE. 

distance between dueenston and Prescott (pursuing 
the Canada side and touching at Toronto) is 250 miles; 
from whence a coach, running in connection with the 
boats, is taken to Cornwall, 50 miles ; steam-boat to 
Coteau du Lac, via St. Regis Indian village, 41 miles ; 
coach to Cascades, 16 miles ; steam-boat to Lachine, 
24 miles ; coach to Montreal, 9 miles. Distance from 
the Falls to Montreal, 414 miles — fare $16. 

On the American side, the distance is as follows : 



J\Iiles. 
From the Falls to 

Fort Niagara, 7 

Genesee River, 74 

Great Sodus Bay,. . . . 35 

Oswego River, 28 

Sacket's Harbor, 40 

Cape Vincent, 20 



jyiiles. 

Morristown, 50 

Ogdensburgh, 12 

Galloup Islands, 5 

Hamilton, 19 

St. R-egis, 35 

La Chine, 53 

Montreal, 7 



Total, 385 

The distance, however, as traversed by the steam- 
boats, in touching at several ports on both sides of the 
lake, is very much increased. 

Toronto, the capital of Upper Canada, is 40 miles 
in a north easterly direction from Glueenston. It is 
beautifully situated within an excellent harbor, made 
by a long peninsula, which confines a basin of water 
sufficiently large to contain a formidable fleet. The 
population of the city is about 5000. 

Charlotte, at the mouth of the Genesee river, 74 
miles from Lewiston, is a port of entry where there is 
a light house, and the commencement of extensive piers 
building by the United States, for improving the navi- 



GREAT S0DU3 BAY — 03WEGO. 29-5 

gation. The river ia navigable to the Carthage falls,* 
4 miles ; from thence to Rochester'" is 2 miles • to 
which place passengers can always be conveyed by 
rail road carriages in readiness on the arrival of the 
boat. 

Great Sodus Bay, 35 miles. Thia embraces East- 
Port and Little Sodus Bays, and has three islands of 
considerable size. The whole circumference of the 
bay, with its coves and points, is about 15 miles. Its 
waters are deep and clear, and its shores have several 
elegant sites for buildings. 

Oswego, 28 miles. It is here that the Oswego canal, 
38 miles in length, including 20 miles of the Oswego 
river, unites with' the Erie; thus joining the waters of 
Lake Ontario with the Hudson. There is a daily line 
of packet boats running from Utica to Oswego, passing 
from Syracuse to Oswego by day light, affording the 
traveller an opportunity of viewing a great variety of 
scenery, and an interesting part of the western canal 
navigation. These boats are new, of the largest di- 
mensions, and in the latest style of accommodation. 
On this route, 12 miles south of Oswego, the traveller 
passes the flourishing village of Fulton, at which place 
there are numerous mills, and also a fall of some beau- 
ty. Oswego is beautifully situated on both sides of the 
river — a bridge connecting the two parts of the village, 
and the streets which are wide, laid out at right angles, 



* For a description of these places, see pages 246 to 
252. 

AA 



S96 OSWEGO. 

and extending in a parallel line from one side of the 
river to the other. Although this place has long been 
noted in the historic page of our country, still it may be 
said to have taken its rise since 1826, the year in which 
the state sales of surplus w^atcrs from the canal were 
made. The village owes much of its importance, not 
only to the numerous mills and manufactories for which 
its location is extremely eligible, being unsurpassed by 
any place in the country for hydraulic power, but also 
to the extensive commercial intercourse that it has with 
the Canadas and the western lakes. 

The surplus waters of the canal, by an arrangement 
with the state, belong to the Oswego Canal Company, 
who, by a subsidiary canal, on the east side of the river, 
have conveyed them to the village, where they have 
a fall of 19 feet, and propel a great number of mills. 
Mr. Abraham Varick, the owner of an extensive prop- 
erty at this place, has also constructed, at great ex- 
pense, a canal on the west side of the river, affording 
a similar fall, and equally important facilities for mills 
and manufactories. At the mouth of the river, jutting 
into the lake, the U. S. government have erected a pier 
or mole at the expense of $100,000, rendering the har- 
bor the safest and best on the American shore. To the 
party of pleasure for the Falls, a route from Syracuse 
{see p. 243) to Oswego, and from thence by steam-boat 
direct to'Niagara, will always prove interesting, without 
the fatigues attendant on stage travelling. 

Among the public buildings in the village, are a 
court house, 6 churches, 2 banks, and an academy. 
The population is about 5000. 

The "Welland House is one of the largest and best 



OGDENSBURGII. 297 

public establishments in the state. From its upper sto- 
ry an extensive and uninterrupted view is had of the 
lake, which is here 60 miles broad. The Oswego Ho- 
tel is also a large and respectable establishment. 

There is still pointed out to the tourist, the remains 
of two forts erected during the French war, which 
were besieged by Gen. Montcalm in 1756, and also 
one built during the revolution. 

A steam-boat runs daily from Oswego to Kingston, 
Upper Canada, 60 miles distant. Stages also leave 
daily for Utica, 70 miles, to which a rail road is soon 
to be constructed. 

Sacket's Harbor, 40 miles. This was an import- 
ant military and naval station during the last war. 
The Barracks are situate about 400 yards north-easter- 
ly of the village, on the shore. They are a solid range 
of stone buildings, and add much to the appearance of 
the place. Two forts erected during the war are now 
in ruins. On Navy-Point, which forms the harbor, 
there is a large ship of war on the stocks ; but which, 
probably, will never be finished. 

Cape Vincent, 20 miles. Kingston in Upper Can- 
ada, is on the opposite side of the lake, 11 miles dis- 
tant, with Grand Island intervening. 

MoRRisTOAVN, 50 miles. The river here is but a mile 
and a quarter wide, on the opposite side of which is 
the village of Brock ville. 

Ogdensburgh, which terminates the passage of the 
steam-boat, is 12 miles farther, and is situated on the 



2^ EITEB 6T. LAWRENCE. 

cast side of the Oswegatche river, at its confiaence with 
the St. Lawrence. This is a thriving village, contain- 
ing about 300 houses, and a population of about 3000 
inhabitants. A military fortification, consisting of two 
stone buildings and a number of wooden barracks was 
formerly erected here by the British government, but 
W"as ceded to the United States in 1796. 

A regular stage leaves Ogdensburgh three limes a 
week for Plattsburgh ; from whence a steam-boat can 
be taken on Lake Champlain for St. John's or White- 
hall. 

Stages also arrive and depart twice a week, to and 
from Montreal j and by crossing the river, the coach 
and steam-boat Hne can be taken at Prescott for that 
place daily. Passage boats, also, leave Ogdensburgh 
about every day, and descend the river as far as La 
Chine, 7 miles above Montreal, in 3 days. The boats 
are usually furnished with every necessary implement 
for their good management, and with skilful pilots. 
The latter are more particularly requisite, as the cur- 
rent of the St. Lawrence is generally very rapid, and 
obstructed by numerous shoals and islands, Avhich, by 
an inexperienced navigator, could not without difficulty 
be avoided. The principal rapids are three in number — 
the Longue Sault, the Rapids of the Cedars* and the 

* It was at this place that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 
SOO men, coming to attack Canada, were lost. The 
French at Montreal I'eceived the first intelligence of the 
invasion, by the dead bodies floating past the town. 
The pilot who conducted their first batteaux committed 
an error by running into the wrong channel, and the 
other batteaux following close, all were involved in the 
earae destruction. 



GALLOP ISLANDS — ST. REGIS. 299 

Cascades of St. Louis. The first of these are 9 miles 
in length, and are usually passed in 20 minutes, which 
is at the rate of 27 miles an hour. The Rapids of the 
Cedars terminate about 3 miles from the Cascades, 
which, after a broken course of about 2 miles, pour 
their foaming waters into Lake St. Louis. Lake St. 
Francis, on the St. Lawrence, is 25 miles long, and its 
greatest breadth 15. The borders of the lake are so 
low that they can scarcely be distinguished in passing 
along its centre. At the northern extremity of Lake 
St. Francis is situated the village of St. Regis, through 
which passes the boundary line between the Canadas 
and the United States. 

The banks of the St. Lawrence exhibit a country re- 
markably fertile, and in many places under good culti- 
vation. The perpetual varying scenery along its banks, 
occasionally diversified with smiling fields and flourish- 
ing villages, together with the islands and rapids of the 
St. Lawrence, present a succession of novelties with 
which the traveller cannot fail to be gratified. 

Gallop Islands, 5 miles from Ogdensburgh. The 
river is here divided into two currents, the commence- 
ment of the great rapids below. From these rapids the 
river descends 231 feet in 280 miles. On Stoney Isl- 
and (one of the Gallop cluster) the French had a strong 
fortress, which was taken and demolished by Gen. Am- 
herst, in 1760. 

St. Regis, 54 miles, is a village occupied by a tribe 
of Indians of that name, who have a reservation of land 
here of considerable extent. One of their chiefs, aged 



300 MONTREAL. 

about 90, remarked to a gentleman ofour Qcquaintanec 
not long since, that he visited the High Rock Spring 
at Saratoga nearly 70 years ago, ichen tke water flowed 
over the top of the aperture.* 

Lachine, 53 miles. From thence to Montreal, which 
is 7 miles farther, the river road is generally preferred ; 
from which a charming view of the rapids and of sev- 
eral islands is enjoyed. It also crosses the Lachine 
canal. 

MONTREAL 

Is situated on the south side of the island of the same 
name, 131 miles from Ogdensburgh, and 170 from due- 
bee. The length of the island is 30 miles, its mean 
breadth 7, and its circumference about 70. The city 
extends along the St. Lawrence, about 2 miles in length 
and half a mile in width. The buildings are mostly 
constructed of stone, and arranged on regularly dispos- 
ed but narrow streets. A stone wall formerly encircled 
the city, which, by the sanction of the government, was 
some years ago totally demolished. Montreal is di- 
vided into the upper and lower towns. The latter of 
these contains the Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644, and 
under a superior and thirty nuns, whose occupation is 
to administer relief to the sick, who are received into 
that hospital. The French government formerly con- 
tributed to the support of this institution ; but since the 



* No one living near the Spring remembers to have 
sieen the water rise higher than within 8 or 10 inches of 
the top of the rock. At present it is considerably lower. 



M0NTR2AL. BOl 

itTPolution, which occasioned the loss of its principal 
funds, then vested in Paris, its resources have been 
confined to the avails of some property in land. The 
upper town contains the Cathedral, the English Church, 
the Seminary, the Convent of RecoUets, and that of the 
Sisters of Notre Dame. The general hospital, or Con- 
vent of Grey Sisters, is situated on the banks of the 
St. Lawrence, a little distance from the town, from 
which it is separated by a small rivulet. This institu- 
tion was established in 1753, and is under the manage- 
ment of a superior and 19 nuns. 

Some of the public buildings are beautiful. Amon": 
these, the new Catholic Church, in grandeur, capacious- 
ness, style and decoration, is probably not exceeded by 
any edifice in America. It is 255 feet long and 34 feet 
wide, and is sufficiently capacious to hold 10,000 per- 
sons. 

JVefsoJi's Monument, near the Market place, is an ob- 
ject also meriting an accurate survey. 

The Museum, belonging to the Society ofj^atural His- 
tonj, contains a numerous assemblage of indigenous 
and exotic specimens, an examination of which will 
prove highly interesting to visitors of taste and science. 

A visit to the Nunneries can generally be effected 
without difficulty ; though a trifling purchase of some 
of the manufactures of the nuns is generally expected. 

The College is a large stone edifice, 3 stories high, 
and has a spacious yard on the south, adjoining to 
which is a beautiful garden. It generally contains 
about 300 students, and the terms of tuition are 80 dol- 
lars per annum. Connected with the college there is 
also a preparatory school, under excellent regulations. 



302 MONTtlEAL. 

The Parade is a beautiful public giound, on which 
the troops are usually drilled. 

The prevailing religion here, as well as at Gluebcc, is 
the Roman Catholic. The clergy derive a revenue from 
grants of land made to them under the ancient regime, 
and from contributions ordained by the church. Be- 
sides these, a principal source of revenue is from the 
fines for alienation, which amount to about 8 per cent., 
paid by the purchaser of real estate, every time the 
same is sold, and which extends to sales of all real es- 
tates in the seignory or island of Montreal. 

The city, including its suburbs, contains rising of 
40,000 inhabitants. 

The Mountain of Montreal, from which the city takes 
its name, rises about 2^ miles distant. It is elevated 
700 feet above the level of the river, and extends from 
north to south 2 miles. This spot has already been se- 
lected for the residence of some private gentlemen, 
whose elegant white mansions appear beautiful in con- 
trast with the surrounding foliage. The island of St. 
Helena, immediately opposite the city, is a dehghtful 
little spot, from whence is had a fine view of Montreal, 
with its lofty mountain in the back ground, the settle- 
ment of Longueil, St. Lambert and La Prairie de la 
Madalene, on the east side of the river, and the waters 
of the St. Lawrence dashing over the rocks of Lachine, 
and sweeping their course around a variety of islands. 

The principal public houses in the city are, Masonic 
Hall, in the north part ; Goodenough's, St. Paul street; 
and Mansion House, do. 

The climate of Montreal is salubrious, and the city 
had generally been free of epidemic diseases until the 



LACniNE — VARENNE3, 303 

■sammer of 1832, when it sufFered severely from the rav- 
ages of the Asiatic cholera. It first made its appear- 
ance in the early part of June, and in two months 
swept off 2000 emigrants and inhabitants. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Lachine, 9 miles from Montreal, with which it is 
connected by a canal, is a place of considerable resort. 
By taking the river road, a view is obtained of the Rap- 
ids, Nuns and Heron Islands, and the Indian village of 
Caughnawaga. 

Varennes. a stage and steam-boat leave Montreal 
for Varennes, a beautiful village 15 miles distant, every 
morning and afternoon, returning the ensuing day. 
The lines of steam-boats plying daily between Mon- 
treal and Cluebec, also touch, both ascending and de- 
scending, to receive and land passengers. From the 
Varennes Spring Hotel, located in the village, is one of 
the most interesting vicM's in North America, com- 
manding in front the mountainous land on the north 
shore of the St. Lawrence ; to the west, the city and 
island of Montreal, the island and fortification of St. 
Helens, and the winding course of the river; and on 
the east a most picturesque group of islands, with their 
varied channels ; while the rear presents the most fer- 
tile and highly cultivated district in Lower Canada, 
with the magnificent mountains of Chambly and Beloil 
in the distance. The Hotel, as a building, is capacious 
and furnished in a style of superior neatness and ele^- 
gfince. 



304 RIDEAU CANAL. 

The Springs are one mile from the village, and are 
approached by a road on the bank of the St. Lawrence, 
forming a delightful promenade, where an extensive 
and commodious bath house has been erected. By an 
analysis of the waters, they prove to be possessed of 
valuable medicinal qualities, and are free from substan- 
ces which can be deemed deleterious. Varennes and 
its vicinity, therefore, present to those travelling in 
pursuit of health and pleasure, many attractions. 

The RiDEAU Canal. This work, which has been 
made at the expense of Great Britain, forms a naviga- 
ble communication between Lake Ontario and the Ot- 
towa or Grand River, which empties into the St. Law- 
rence opposite Montreal. The object of its construc- 
tion has been to secure, in time of war, the transporta- 
tion of military stores, &c. by an interior route, less ex- 
posed to the U. States, and practicable in lake vessels 
of 125 tons. The junction of the Rideau river with the 
Ottowa, which is the lower extremity of the canal, is 
120 miles from Montreal; and from Kingston, near 
where the canal enters Lake Ontario, it is 160 miles by 
water, and 130 by land. The discharge of the Rideau 
into the Ottowa, is marked by an extensive cove on the 
right bank of the latter river, in a gulley existing be- 
tween the falls of the Chaudiere and Rideau. This 
point appears to have been reserved by nature for the 
purpose to which it is adapted; and, indeed, bears eve- 
ry characteristic, both as to its banks and valley, of 
having been formerly the bed of the Rideau. The ele- 
vation of the mouth of the canal above the level of the 
sea is estimated at 110 feet, while it is considered to be 



RIDEAU CANAI,, 



305 



283 feet below the summit level on ''Rideau Lake," 
and 129 below the level of Lake Ontario, at Kingston. 
Directly above the mouth of the canal, may be seen 
the beautiful and magnificent cataract of the Chaudiere. 
It consists of a series of falls, more or less extensive, 
and amounting in all to 31 J feet perpendicular. But 
that which stands most prominent to view, and gives an 
appearance of grandeur to the whole, is at the broadest 
channel of the river, and known by the name of the 
Grande Chaudiere, or Big Kettle, from the peculiar for- 
mation of the cauldron into which the waters fall. This 
formation consists of a hard laminated lime-stone, in 
horizontal strata, and worn into its present horse-shoe 
shape by the constant abrasion of the rolling water 
over its surface. The depth of the cauldron is said to 
be over three hundred feet — at least, a sounding line 
of that length could not be made to touch bottom. 

Next in interest to these may be mentioned the cata- 
ract of the R-ideau, situated at the mouth of the river, 
where its dark green waters fall from an eminence of 
37 feet, in a single unbroken sheet. The river finds its 
source in the Rideau Lake, 85 miles from the Ottowa, 
but is not occupied as the bed of the canal till about 6 
miles above its entrance, it having been found more 
expedient to make use of the natural valley and bay 
already alluded to. 

At this point it became necessary, in consequence of 
the rugged and precipitate nature of the banks of the 
Ottowa, to overcome the difference of level between 
the river and canal by the construction of a series of 
locks, eight in number, and each rising ten feet, giving 
an aggregate of eighty feet perpendicular rise ; con- 



306 AlDEAU CANAL. 

structed in a liberal vvorkmanliko manner, and pre- 
senting an elegant and commanding appearance. The 
estimated cost was JE45,7C0. In the vicinity of the 
locks are two spacious basins for the reception of boats; 
over one of which there is a stone arch, connecting 
Upper and Lower Bytown. 

About seventy miles of the route passes through ei- 
ther extensive lakes with bold and rocky shores, or soft 
swampy meadov/s, where good foundations were unat- 
tainable, save at great additional expense. Hence it 
became necessary to do away with the ordinary tow- 
ing path, and enlarge the canal to a surface of 48 feet, 
with a depth of 5 feet throughout, to admitt the passage 
of steam-boats from one extremity to the other. 

The towns of Upper and Lower By, so named after 
\he commandant of engineers, Lieut. Col. John By, 
under whose superintendence the works were con- 
structed, have already assumed a character and import- 
ance which, when their brief existence is taken into 
consideration, is truly marvellous. The towns already 
contain, in addition to their numerous dwelling-houses, 
two large store-houses for the use of the Ordinance 
and Commissariat Departments ; three substantial 
buildings for the accommodation of the troops, erected 
on the highest eminence, so as to command both the 
river and canal ; and at a short distance an excellent 
military hospital. 

In the vicinity may also be seen, in the " Union 
Bridge," the execution of one of the most daring plans 
ever conceived. It connects Upper with Lower Cana- 
da, and is thrown directly over the falls of the Chau- 
diere, taking advantage of the numerous rocky islands 



RIDEAU CANAL. 307 

embraced by the diverging branches of the river at this 
place ; and forming altogether a most magnificent and 
imposing specimen of civil architecture. The bridge 
is composed of six distinct arches, two of stone and four 
of wood, stretching from island to island with various 
spans, as circumstances required ; and forming an ag- 
gregate length of bridge- way of 781 feet. Takincr 
leave of Bytown and its vicinity, and proceeding along 
the line until it strikes the river, little of interest occurs, 
saving a singular break in an interesting ridge of land, 
extending for several miles at an average depth of about 
thirty-five feet. It is known under the name of the 
" Notch in the Mountain," and affords an opportune 
passage for the canal, which would otherwise, in order 
to pass it, have had to encounter a heavy excavation. 

At the point where the canal enters the channel of 
the river, are found strong rapids, confined on one side 
by a high clay bank, and on the other by a rocky shore. 
To overcome the fall existing here, which is about 30 
feet, it was necessary to drown the rapids by the erec- 
tion of a large dam, and surmount the elevation by 
three locks. This dam backs the water as far as the 
" Black Rapids" — to which point, and indeed thence all 
the way to its source in the "Rideau Lake," the chan- 
nel of the river continues to be used. The Rideau, like 
other rivers in Canada, is a combination of rapids and 
long sheets of still water, alternately intervening, and 
to overcome which it is ever necessary to have recourse 
to locks and dams. There are fourteen rapids between 
Bytown and the Rideau Lake, which are destroyed by 
as many dams, and 20 locks of various lifts, amounting 
in all to 283 feet. 

BB 



308 RIDEAU CANAL. 

The " Rideau Lake," which is the proper sammit o^ 
the canal, is a beautiful expanse of clear green water, 
30 miles long and 12 broad, surrounded on all sides by 
bold, rocky and precipitous banks. The only inter- 
ruptions which the navigation encounters across this 
lake are at " Oliver's Ferry" and the " Rideau Nar- 
rows," where considerable extra expense was incurred 
to overcome the currents there created by the contrac- 
tion of the waters. 

Continuing the use of the Rideau waters for the 
space of 45 miles on the summit level of the route, its 
course finally bends towards the " Cataraqui River," 
which has an outlet in Lake Ontario near Kingston. 
An excavation of 10 feet for the distance of a mile and 
a half across the isthmus, existing between the " Ri- 
deau" and " Mud" lakes, was necessary to eWect this 
object. The latter lake is 3^ feet below the level of the 
Rideau, and has a length of 12 miles, with an avei-age 
breadth of 10, studded all over with innumerable small 
islands, which give it quite a picturesque appearance. 
It is intended eventually to raise the waters to the lev- 
el of the summit lake. 

Leaving this lake, the canal enters the " Indian," and 
thence, instead of making the long detour of the river, 
encounters a shallow cut, by which, in a more direct 
hne, the distanse is considerably shortened. Thence 
following the course of the " Cataraqui" to within 55 
miles of Kingston, a dam is met with, backing the wa- 
ters as far as the last mentioned lake. The rapids con- 
necting this with *' Davis' Lake," on the right side of 
the river, are surmounted by dams and locks, so thai. 



FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 309 

•the navigation, which was before hazardous, is now 
perfectly safe. 

Again, following the course of the "Cataraqui river" 
for the further distance of eight miles, and successively 
passing " Davis" and " Opinicon" lakes, together with 
their intervening rapids, surmounted as usual by a dam 
and lock, the tourist arrives at a point called "Jones' 
Falls," 35 miles from Kingston. These falls descend 
61 feet within the mile, and connect " Opinicon Lake" 
with "Cranberry Marsh," where the river holds its 
course through a narrov/ rocky ravine. This fall is 
overcome by a dam and six locks. Thence, passing 
three more smaller rapids, with their customary works, 
the line at length reaches " Kingston Mills," where the 
Cataraqui empties itself into the Kingston Bay, a part 
of Lake Ontario, and five miles distant from Kingston. 
This is the upper extremity of the canal on the Canada 
side, and is terminated at its junction with Lake Onta- 
rio by the erection of four locks of nine feet each. 

The entire cost of this canal, which with the Welland 
canal (heretofore noticed) forms a chain of internal 
communication between Hahfax and the Gulf of Mex- 
ico, was rising of £600,000. 

FROM MONTREAL TO QUEEKC — ^^170 ini!eS. 

The St. Lawrence from Montreal to Cluebec is nav- 
igated by a number of excellent steam-boats, and the 
passage between the two cities is delightful. A large 
majority of the inhabitants of Lower Canada are crowd- 
ed together near the shores of the St. Lawrence, and 
few interruptions of forest land intervene in the whole 
distance between the two principal cities. The dwell- 



310 WILLIAM HENRY. 

ings and cultivated grounds are so frequent and con- 
tinuous that each side of the river, in fact, becomes al- 
most an unbroken street; with groups of houses in the 
vicinity of the several churches, which are erected gen- 
erally in sight of the passing steam-boat, except on 
Lake St. Peter. The churches are from six to nine 
miles distant fi-om each other, and upwards of twenty in 
number, forming, many of them, prominent objects to 
give embellishment and charm to the novel and other- 
wise very attractive scenery. All travellers sleep one 
night at least on board the steam-boat while journeying 
between the two cities ; and it is recommended that 
they should arrange the hour of departure from Clue- 
bee, (which is always at low water,) so that they may 
view by day-light that part of the river which had been 
before passed in the night. A journey to Cluebec and 
back again, which a few years since was the labor of 
some weeks, may now be accomplished, by means of 
steam-boats, in less than three days. The distance 
between the two cities is 170 miles — fare $4. 

From Montreal, the boat first passes near the Fort 
on St. Helen's Island, and soon enters the rapids of St. 
Mary ; in returning up which, steam-boats are often 
drawn by cattle. Proceeding down the river, the vil- 
lages of Longueil, Longue Pointe, Vercheres, Va- 
rennes, Point aux Trembles, Contrecoeur,Repentigny, 
St. Sulpice, La Morage, Berthier and Machiche are 
successively passed, before reaching the town of 

William Henry, which is 40 miles from Montreal. 
It stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1665, on the 
right bank of the river Sorel, at its confluence with the 
St. Lawrence. The present town was commenced in 



LAKE ex. PETER THREE raVERS. 311 

1785. It is regularly laid out with streets, crossing- 
each other at right angles, leaving a space in the cen- 
tre about 500 feet square. The number of dwellings 
does not exceed 200, and its population 2000. Near 
the town is a seat which was formerly the residence of 
the Governor General of Canada, during the summer 
months. Opposite the town, the river Sorel is 250 yards 
broad, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons, for 
twelve or fourteen miles. On the river, which unites 
the waters of Lake Champlaiii with the St. Lawrence, 
are two considerable forts, the one at St. Johns and the 
other at Chambly. Sorel was occupied in May, 1776, 
by a part of the American army, under General Thom- 
as, on their retreat from Cluebec. 

Lake St. Peter, some miles belov; the town of Sor- 
el, is formed by an expansion of the river St. Law- 
rence to 15 or 20 miles in width, and is 21 in length. 
The waters of the lake have but little current, and arc 
from 8 to 11 feet deep. At the upper end of the lake a 
variety of small islands are interspersed, which are the 
only ones that occur in the St. Lawrence till you reach 
the island of Orleans, a distance of 117 miles. On the 
north side of this lake is the town of 

Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. Maurice, 
which is divided by tvvo small islands into three branch- 
es. This town was formerly the seat of the Colonial 
Government, and is now considered the third in impor- 
tance in the Province. It contains about 400 houses, 
including a Roman Catholic and an Episcopal church, 
and a Convent of Ursulines — also the barracks former- 
ly occupied by the governor, during the French regime. 
The number of inhabitants is estimated at 3000. Some 
be2 



312 RICHELIEU RAPIDS. 

miles up the St. Maurice are the celebrated falls of 
Shawinnegame, a beautiful cataract of about 100 feet 
descent. 

Seven miles below Three Rivers, the Richelieu rap- 
ids commence. The river is compressed within less 
than half a mile in width, and the water moves with 
great velocity for three or four miles ; but being deep 
and the current unbroken, except at the shores, the de- 
scent is made by steam-boats without danger, except 
in the night, when a descent is never attempted. 

The scenery of the St. Lawrence is occasionally re- 
lieved by the prospect of the distant mountains, the 
highest of which does not exceed 1000 feet, but rising 
in the back ground of the cultivated vales along the 
borders of the river, give an additional degree of beau- 
ty and novelty to many of its landscapes. The alter- 
nate variety of the waters of the St. Lawrence, now re- 
posing in stillness on the bosom of an expanded lake, 
and now rushing with the rapidity of a cataract, added 
to the pleasing effect of the landscape scenery, afford 
an agreeable repast to the tourist, until he reaches the 
classic scenes of Cluebec. Soon after leaving Cape 
Rouge, and the Uttle village of St. Nicholas, near the 
mouth of the Chaudiere river, the towers and citadel of 
this famous city open to view, situated on a rock of 345 
feet in height, called Cape Diamond, from the gem-like 
quality of the chrystals which are found intermingled 
with the granite beneath its surface. In approaching 
the city, you pass Sillery River and Cove, and Wolfe's 
Cove, where he landed his army to gain the heights of 
Abraham, about one and a half miles from Cluebec. 
Point Levi appears on the right, a rocky precipice, cov- 



QUEBEC. 313 

ered with white dwelUngs, and commanding the cita- 
del of (iuebec from the opposite shore. 

QUEBEC* 

Is situated upon a high peninsular point of land, at 
the confluence of the rivers St. Lawrence and St. 
Charles, the junction of which forms a capacious and 
beautiful bay and harbor. 

From the New Exchange at the extremity of the 
point on the north east, the limits of the city jurisdic- 
tion extend in a direct line about north-west to a bend 
in the St. Charles river, near the General Hospital. 
On the St. Lawrence river the south-west point of the 
Banlieu is about equi-distant from the Exchange, the 
whole plat approximating to a triangle, the longest side 
of which passes a short distance to the west of the 
Martello Towers, measuring one mile and five furlongs 
or 2860 yards from the St. Charles to the St. Lawrence. 

A straight line drawn from one river to the other, at 
the Barrier on the south and west, is rather more than 
a mile in length, and the whole wall is two miles and 
three quarters in circuit ; but including the Citadel, the 
Esplanade, the different large gardens, and other va- 
cant spaces, a considerable proportion of the interior 
area within the fortification remains unoccupied for 
buildings. 

The city and environs are thus subdivided : That 
part which is within the walls is called the Upper 



* For a description of this place, the writer is princi- 
pally indebted to the "Picture of Quebec," recently 
published in that city. 



314 QOEBEC. 

Town, and can be approached solely by five gates. On 
the eastern side of the Cape towards the St. Lawrence, 
there is only one avenue to enter it, by a circuitous 
steep hill, through Prescott Gate, which is the chief 
thoroughfare for all the commercial business of the 
port, especially during the navigable season ; and then 
Mountain street, as this route is named, presents tho 
appearance of a crowded and active population. On 
the north of the city, and where the promontory has 
considerably declined in height, there are two entran- 
ces—Hope Gate, not far from the eastern extremity of 
the rampart, and Palace Gate adjoining the Armory 
and the Artillery Barracks. These gates are on that side 
of the city which is washed by the St. Charles. From 
the land there are two avenues to the interior of the for- 
tifications : that to the east is knovi'n as the St. Louis 
Gate, which conducts by a beautiful road to the Plains 
of Abraham ; the other is at the end of St. John street, 
and thence denominated St. John's Gate. This is the 
route through which the chief part of the countiy trade 
passes. 

The long street from the termination of the Banlicu 
on the south-west, upon the St. Lawrence, skirting the 
Cape round to the Wood Yard belonging to the gov- 
ernment, including Mountain street to the Prescott 
Gate, and all the other shorter streets below the hill 
and the river, are generally denominated the Lower 
Town. The portion between the road outside of the 
Gate of St. Louis and that of St. John street, to the 
line of the Banlieu, is called the suburbs of St. Louis. 
From St. John street northerly to the Cote St. Gene- 
vieve, and returning to tlie end of the Banlieu, all tho 



QUEBEC. 313 

buildings are included in the St. John suburbs ; and 
the large district extending from the Wood Yard along 
by the foot of the hill to the western extremity of the 
Banlieu, and bounded on the north-west by the St. 
Charles river, bears the appellation of the suburbs of 
St. Roch. 

As travellers are generally restricted to time, they 
have often failed to gratify their curiosity for want of a 
directory or guide, by which they might with the great- 
est facility view the most important objects, and also 
from not having previously obtained a letter of intro- 
duction to some respectable citizen who would accom- 
pany them in their explorations. To remove these ob- 
Btables, the following methodical plan of an excursion 
through the city and the accompanying descriptions are 
given. They will be found to be accurate, and M'ill 
save the tourist from innumerable perplexities, to which 
he would otherwise be subjected. 

Taking the Upper Town Market-House as tho 
place of departure, the observer has on the west the 
ancient Monastery of the Jesuits, now used as the Bar- 
racks for the troops of the garrison. It is a capacious 
quadrangular edifice of 75 yards by 67, encircled by a 
wall which measures on the north the whole length 
of Fabrique street, and more than 200 yards on Anne 
Btreet. The area enclosed, and which now is appropri- 
ated for the parades and exercises of the troops, was 
formerly an elegant garden. Fronting on the east side 
of Market-Place is the principal 

Roman Catholic Church, which is open nearly the 
whole hours of day-light. It is a massive unornament- 
ed and spacious stone building. From the vestibule* 



316 QUEBEC. 

the body of the interior is subdivided into equal pro- 
portions. At the termination of the nave is the grand 
altar in the middle of the ellipse constituting the sanc- 
tum, the walls of which are ornamented with represen- 
tations and figures, commingled with various other 
graphical emblems. Among the pictures are the con- 
ception — the Apostle Paul in his extatic vision — the 
Saviour ministered unto by angels — the flight of Jo- 
seph and Mary — the Redeemer and the cross — the na- 
tivity of Christ — the Saviour under the contumelious 
outrages of the soldiers — the day of Pentecost — and the 
Holy Family. During the siege of duebec, in 1759, 
this church was set on fire by shells discharged from a 
battery on Point Levi, and all the paintings and orna- 
ments consumed except the first above mentioned, 
which was afterwards found among the ruins. The 
avenue north of the church conducts the tourist to 

The Seminary, a capacious superstructure of stone, 
in the form of a parallelogram. It is encircled by a 
large garden, walled in, measuring in the whole about 
Beven acres. This institution was estabushed in 1663, 
and was originally designed for the education of eccle- 
siastics ; but this exclusive system was long since 
abandoned, and it is now open for the reception of all 
who comply with its regulations. Attached to the 
Seminary is a museum of natural curiosities ; and on 
the left of the grand entrance from Market-Place is 
the vestibule of the chapel, in which are a great varie- 
ty of sacred paintings. From this the tourist can pro- 
ceed to the church ; and from thence to the 

Place d\^rmes, where, on the cast of the Pentagon, 
stood the Castle of St. Lewis, the former residence of 



QUEBEC. 317 

the Governor, and which was destroyed by fire in the 
winter of 1834. On the west corner of the Place 
d'Armes stood the Episcopal church, which was hurnt 
a few years since. On tlio south side, and nearly ad- 
joining, is the 

Court House, a plain neat building of stone about 
140 feet long, and as many broad. It stands where 
once stood a church belonging to the order of the Rec- 
ollets, which was burnt in 1796. 

On the corner of Fort street, south of the site of the 
castle of St. Lewis, is a large building used for pub- 
lic offices, the front room of which on the first story 
contains the JMuseum of the " Society for promoting 
Literature, Science, Arts and Historical research in 
Canada." A visit to it will prove extremely interest- 
ing. Crossing the Place d'Armes to Dea Carrieres 
street, the visitor will next inspect the 

Monument, erected in memory of Wolfe and Mont- 
calm. This consists of a base and a pillar, surmounted 
by a vignette of graphic delineation. The base is about 
5 by 6 feet, and the whole height of the monument 
is sixty-five feet. It contains two Latin inscriptions. 
After viewing from the promenade at the exterior of the 
Governor's quarters ihe beauteous landscape diverging 
to the north-east, the visitor will return to St. Lewis 
street, where, after passing the office of the Commissa- 
riat, he will turn by Parloir street, to the 

Ursuline Kunnery and Church. This nunnery and 
the land adjoining it occupy a space of about sevea 
acres, which is surrounded by a high barrier of stone. 
The institution was founded in 1639, and the edifice, 
which is of stone, is two stories high, 114 feet long^ 



318 QtJEBEC. 

and about 40 broad. At tho east projection Is the 
chapel, about 100 feet long and 50 in breadth, the inte- 
rior of which is highly decorated. The convent is neat 
and includes a superior, 42 assistants and 7 novices, 
the chief employment of whom is the tuition of a large 
number of girls in common knowledge and other qual- 
ifications. They are more rigid and retired than the 
inmates of any other conventual institution in Canada. 
Persons of distinction only are permitted to examine 
the domestic departments ; but the Chaplain, whose 
apartments are on the right of the entrance, permits 
strangers to examine the church on application to him. 
Among the paintings there exhibited, are the portraits 
of some of the Popes — the birth of Immanuel — the Sa- 
viour exhibiting his heart to the Religieuses — the Sa- 
viour taken down from the cross — a cargo of Christians 
captured by the Algerines — Louis xiii of France — and 
several devices taken from the scriptures. The altars 
are highly ornamented and imposing. 

Leaving the nunnery, the visitor will next proceed by 
Anne street, with the south wing of the barracks on 
his right to the Presbyterian church. Passing its front 
he will leave the jail on the right, where he pursues his 
course to the 

Esplanade. If he has no citizen as a companion, and 
no other mode of visiting the fortification, he should 
turn up St. Ursule to St. Louis street, and at the mili- 
tary ofllices request from the adjutant general a card of 
admission to walk round the interior of the 

Citadel. This stupendous fortress circumscribes the 
w^hole area on the highest part of Cape Diamond, and 
is intended not only to accommodate the garrison as a 



QUEBEC. 319 

residenco, parade, &c. but also to include all the mate- 
rials of war. It perfectly commands the city and river 
St. Lawrence; and when completed, will be not only 
the most powerful specimen of military architecture on 
the western continent, but also a rival of many of the 
renowned works in the Netherlands. All attempts to 
describe the Citadel in its present unfinished state would 
be nugatory. 

Having entered the grand western gate, where the 
visitor leaves his ticket with a soldier on guard, and 
examined the edifice, he will first proceed round the 
course of the citadel to the flag staff* and telegraph ; 
thence southerly by the parapet bordering on the river 
to the machinery at the head of the rail- way, or in- 
clined plane, which is 500 feet long, extending from 
the wharf to the Cape, where its perpendicular eleva- 
tion is 345 feet above the stream. This rail- way is used 
by the government alone, to convey stones and other 
articles of great weight and bulk, for tlie erection of the 
new fortress. 

Having surveyed from the highest point the majestic 
scene in every diversified aspect of hill and dale, land 
and water, the visitor will follow the course of the wall 
on his left hand, until he returns to the same gate, and 
pursue his walk by it, over St. Louis gate along the 
Esplanade, until he arrives opposite the church of the 
Congreganistes, immediately below which is the nation- 
al school-house. 

Proceeding along St. John street, he will turn north 

of St. Stanislaus street, on the east side of which stands 

Trinity chapel, whence crossing Carleton street, he 

arrives at the artillery barracks and the armory — the 

cc 



320 QUEBEC. 

latter of which may be inspected, if a resident of the 
city be in company. 

Opposite the armory is the anatomical room of the 
medical society. Thence walking up Palace street, on 
the right hand is St. Helen street, where is Mr. Chas- 
seur's natural museum. Returning into Palace street, 
the visitor crosses obhquely above to Collins' Lane, in 
which stands on the left, the 

Chapel of the Hotel Dieu. These premises include a 
large proportion of the northern part of the interior of 
the city — commencing from the gate of ihe burial ground 
on Couillard street and extending to Palace street, 
with a wall on the nortli, parallel to the fortifications ; 
the whole space occupying about twelve acres. The 
institution was commenced in 1637, under the auspices 
of the Duchess of Aiguillon, and was consecrated to 
the reception and care of the sick, who are indigent 
and distressed. It is a capacious edifice, the longest 
portion of which extends nearly one hundred and thir- 
ty yards by seventeen in depth, and three stories higli^ 
On the north-west side from the centre, a range is erect- 
ed two stories high, fifty yards in length, and nearly as 
many feet broad, plain and unadorned. This wing is 
appropriated for the patients ; the upper story of which 
is occupied by the females. All proper attendance 
both from the nuns and physicians, with every neces- 
sary comfort, is gratuitously administered. 

In the convent the sisterhood reside, who now include 
the superieure, thirty-three religeuses professes, two no- 
vices and one postulante. The regularity, neatness 
and purity with which the establishment is conducted, 



QUEBEC. 321 

and the solace of the wretched who find refuge in this 
hospitable domain, are highly exemplary. 

The church of the Hotel Dieu externally is perfectly 
plain, and the interior is little adorned. The paintings 
may be examined upon application to the chaplain. 

Having completed an examination of the Hotel Dieu, 
with the surrounding garden, the visitor may next fol- 
low Couillard, St. Joachin and St. George's streets to 
the Grand Battery and the ancient palace of the Catho- 
lic bishop, now used by the provincial parliament ; or 
he can return to Palace street, and continue his pro- 
gress to the gate, where, by passing the guard house 
and pursuing his walk easterly, he may accurately un- 
derstand the nature of the defence which the city can 
make against external assault. 

The first house at which he arrives is distinguished 
as the residence of the renowned Montcalm. There he 
may turn to the right, which willjead him to Couillard 
street, or he can continue his walk passing Hope Gate, 
until he arrives at the Look-cut from the north-east 
platform of the battery. 

In the lower town, the only objects which merit no* 
lice, besides the inclined plane or rail-way to the Cita- 
del, are the Exchange Reading Room, and the Clucbec 
Library, which are always open for the admission of 
strangers, if regularly introduced, and are worthy of 
inspection. 

About one hundred yards from the lower end of the 
rail- way, General Montgomery and his aids with other 
men were killed on the morning of December 31, 1775, 
when proceeding to the assault of Cluebec. The place 
may be easily recognized, notwithstanding the altera- 



322 QUEBEC. 

tions which have occurred. At that period, a narrow 
path only was made between the foot of the hill and 
the river, so that vessels were fastened to the rock by 
large iron bolts, one of which still remains, near the 
very spot where the American General and his ad- 
vanced party were discomfited. The wharves, houses, 
&c, all have been long since constructed. At the top 
of the small ascent on the street immediately below, 
the small battery had been erected, near the plat where 
the southerly forge is now stationed. As Montgomery 
led on the attack, the British retreated before him. In 
passing round Cape Diamond, the ice and projecting 
rocks rendered it necessary for the Americans to press 
forward in a narrow file, imtil they arrived at the block 
house and picket. The General was himself in front, 
and assisted with his own hands to cut down and pull 
up the picket. The roughness of the w^ay had so 
lengthened his line of march, that he was obliged to 
wait for a force to come up before he could proceed. 
Having re-assembled about 200 men, he advanced 
boldly and rapidly at their head to force the barrier. 
One or two of the enemy had by this time ventured to 
return to the battery, and seeing a match standing by 
one of the guns, touched it off", when the American 
force was within forty paces of it. This single and ac- 
cidental fire struck down General Montgomery and his 
aids. Captain M'Pherson and Captain Cheesman. 

The remains of Montgomery were interred by a sol- 
dier of the name of Thompson within a wall that sur- 
rounded a powder magazine near the ramparts bound- 
ing on St. Lewis' gate ; and in 1918 were removed to 



PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 323 

New- York, where they were deposited beneath a mon- 
ument in front of St. Paul's church. 

The Plains of Abraham he south and west of Clue- 
feec. The visitor, on leaving St. Louis gate, should turn 
up the stairs of the Glacis, continue his course under 
the citadel, and pursue a path to the right. At the 
termination of the enclosure, the bank is ascended to 
the Plains of Abraham, near the spot where Wolfe died. 
The large house at a distance in the front is erected on 
the site of a French redoubt, which defended the as- 
cent from Wolfe's Cove, and was the primary object of 
assault and capture, after the top of the hill had been 
gained by the British troops. The precipice at the 
Cove, from 150 to 200 feet in height, and full of projec- 
tions of rocks and trees, seemed to be rendered almost 
impassable. General Wolfe, however, with unparal- 
leled fortitude, led the way in the night (Sept. 12, 1759) 
through a narrow path winding obliquely up the hill, 
which, with the assistance of boughs and stumps, ena- 
bled him and his troops to gain the summit. Here, by 
day-light the next morning, they were formed in line of 
battle, in readiness to meet the enemy. 

General Montcalm, on receiving information that 
the British had possession of the heights, broke up his 
camp at Beaufort, crossed the St. Charles river, and at 
about 10 o'clock in the morning commenced the attack. 
After a desperate struggle of about two hours, in which 
both commanders had been mortally wounded, the 
French gave way, and left the field in possession of the 
victors. 

Wolfe fell at the critical moment that decided the 
victory. He was wounded in the early part of the en- 
cc2 



324 FALLS OP MONTMORENCI. 

gagement by a bullet in his wrist — soon after by a ball 
which passed through his groin — and it was not until a 
third had pierced his breast, that he suffered himself to 
be carried from the field. " I die happy," was his ex- 
clamation, when in the arms of death he heard the joy- 
ful shouts of victory. 

The Martello Towers, consisting of four circular forts, 
are situated at the northern extremity of the Plains of 
Abraham, about half a mile in advance of the exterior 
grand wall of the fortifications. They are numbered 
from the river St. Lawrence to the General Hospital, 
and guard the approaches to the city on the south and 
west. They are nearly 40 feet in height, with a base 
diameter almost equal ; and the exterior wall is of ample 
strength to resist a cannonade. 

duebec, like Montreal, suffered eevcrely from the 
Asiatic cholera in the summer of 1S32. From the 
commencement of the disease in June, until its termi- 
nation about the first of September, it is estimated there 
were not less than 2,500 deaths ; being equal to about 
one tenth of its population. 

The Falls of Montmouenci, are situated about 8 
miles north-east of Ctuebec, on the river of the same 
name, near its junction with the St. Lawrence. These 
falls pour over a perpendicular precipice 240 feet in 
height, and may almost compare in beauty and gran- 
deur with the cataract of Niagara. 

The effect from the summit of the cliff is awfully 
grand and sublime. The prodigious depth of the de- 
scent of the waters of this surprising fall ; the bright- 
ness and volubility of their course ; the swiftness of 
their movement through the air ; and the loud and hoi- 



Falls of montmorenci. 325 

low noise emitted from the basin, swelling with inces- 
eant agitation from the weight of the dashing waters, 
forcibly combine to attract the attention, and to impress 
the mind of the spectator with sentiments of grandeur 
and elevation. The breadth of the fall is 100 feet; and 
the basin, which is bounded by steep cliffs, forms an 
angle of forty-five degrees. When viewed from the 
beach, the cataract is seen, with resplendent beauty, to 
flow down the gloomy precipice, the summit of which 
is crowded with woods. The diffusion of the stream, 
to the breadth of 1,500 feet, and the various small cas- 
cades produced by the inequalities of its rocky bed, on 
its way to the St. Lawrence, display a very singular 
and pleasing combination. 

Remains of entrenchments and fortifications erected 
during the French war are still to be seen near the falls. 
A battery occupied by Gen. Wolfe, in June, 1759, on 
the precipice north-east of the falls is yet visible. The 
French occupied the opposite bank ; and Wolfe at- 
tempted to storm their works by fording the river be- 
low the falls and ascending the heights. Without 
forming in a regular manner, and without waiting for 
additional reinforcements which were on their way from 
Point Levi, Wolfe's men rashly ascended the hill, 
eager for the onset, and were cut down by the French 
artillery and musquetry, and obliged to retreat. The 
English loss was about 500 ; while that of the French 
was trifling. A storm coming on, further attempts to 
dislodge the French were abandoned. The British af- 
terwards ascended the river, and the action on the 
Plains of Abraham, which has already been noticed, 
took place in the month of September following. 



326 NATURAL STEPS. 

There are three points which afford the best views of 
the Falls. 1. From the upper window of the mill, 
whence the projecting leap is safely seen. 2. Having 
crossed the bridge, the visitor proceeds along the brow 
of the hill until he arrives nearly in front of the whole 
cataract ; from this summit, the view, with the concom- 
itant circumstances, inspire commingled emotions of 
awe, terror and astonishment. From the same spot 
there is a lucid and beauteous prospect of Gluebec, 
with its encircling scenery ; and with an ordinar}' mag- 
nifying glass, the observer can discern all the promi- 
nent objects — the steeples, towers, fortifications, prin- 
cipal edifices, the shipping, the course of the St. Law- 
rence, until it is lost among the hills — Point Levi and 
its vicinity — the north side of the island of Orleans — 
the point of Angel Garden — and the shores of the river 
as far as Cape Tourment. 3. Hence the visitor de- 
scends the hill, and pursuing its course to the right, he 
may ordinarily advance to the rock which interrupts 
the turbulence of the stream when discharged into the 
chasm. In the view from below, the most vivid im- 
pressions of this gorgeous cascade are produced ; and 
travellers who do not thus survey the falls, can form 
only a faint and incorrect idea of its apparently chang- 
ing effect. 

At a considerable distance above the Falls, the chan- 
nel of the river is contracted between high vertical 
rocks, and the water rushes with proportionate velocity. 
In one part, at about half a mile from the bridge, cas- 
cades of three or four yards in depth are adjacent to 
two fine geological curiosities, familiarly denominated 
the J^atiiral Steps, which appear to have been formed 



IrORETTB. 327 

by the attrition of the stream, occasioned by the melt- 
ing of the snows and the augmented rapidity of the 
flood. Many of these steps are so regular, that they 
almost develope the process of human art. The per- 
pendicular attitude of the rocks on the east side— the 
tree-crowned summit — the uniformity of appearance, 
resembling an ancient castle wall in ruins — the preci- 
pices on the western bank — and the foaming noisy cur- 
rent, pourtray a romantic wildness, which is highly 
attractive. Observers are amply remunerated for their 
walk, as, conjoined with this interesting object, they 
witness the continuous descent and the accelerating 
force and celerity with which the river is propelled to 
the point, whence it is precipitated into the St. Law- 
rence. 

LoRETTE, an Indian village, about 8 miles from the 
city, can be taken in the route to or from the falls of 
Montmorenci. It is built upon an elevated situation, 
whence there is an extensively varied and agreeable 
landscape, in many points similar to that from Cape 
Diamond, but also including some interesting novelties 
of outline. It exhibits a bold and beautiful view of 
Cluebec and its suburbs, and in its extent it is bounded 
solely by the distant southern mountains. The Indian 
inhabitants of the village retain many of the prominent 
characteristics of the aboriginal reamers of the forest, 
combined with vicious habits contracted by their prox- 
imity to a large sea-port, and their intercourse with its 
migratory population. At this village is a very charm- 
ing view of the river St. Charles, tumbling and foaming 
over the rocks and ledges to a great depth. The rug- 
ged and perpendicularly elevated woody cliffs, in con- 



328 



CHAUDIERE FALLS. 



nection with the impetuous rush of the waters, although 
circumscribed in extent, and therefore affording no ex- 
panded prospect in immediate front, yet, as seen from 
the Saw-Mill, and from the bank and the bridge at the 
head of the dell, in its different positions and aspects, 
constitute an object which, when contrasted with the 
more majestic cataiacts of INTontmorenci and the Chau- 
diere, or recollected in combination with them, furnishes 
in memorial an addition to the varieties which those 
stupendous natural curiosities embody. 

The Chaudiere Falls can be approached by land 
or water. The former is generally preferred, the dis- 
tance to the mouth of the Chaudiere being nine miles 
from duebec. From thence visitors can cross at the 
ferry and take an indirect path to the west bank of the 
river, or diverge from the St. Lawrence some distance 
north of the Chaudiere, and arrive within a short walk 
of the falls on the eastern bank. The river at the cas- 
cade is much compressed, being only about 400 feet 
across ; and the depth into the Pot, as it is usually 
termed, is about 135 feet. Many rocks divide the 
stream, precisely at the fall, into three chief currents, of 
which the westerly is the largest — these partially re- 
unite before their broken and agitated waves are re- 
ceived into the basin ; where each dashing against the 
other maintains a turbulent whirlpool. The form of 
the rock forces a part of tiie waters into an obhque di- 
rection, advancing them beyond the line of the preci- 
pice, while the cavities in the rocks increase the foaming 
fury of the revolving waters in their descent, displaying 
globular figures of brilliant whiteness, which are richly 
contrasted with the encircling, dark and gloomy cliffs, 



ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 329 

while the ascending spray devclopes all the variety of 
the coloured cloudy arch, and enlivens the beauty of 
the landscape : the wild diversity of rocks, the foliage 
of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, efful- 
gent brightness and the deeply solemn sound of the 
cataracts, all combining to present a rich assemblage of 
objects highly attractive, especially when the visitor, 
emerging from the wood, is instantaneously surprised 
by the delightful scene. Below, the view is greatly 
changed, and the falls produce an additional strong and 
vivid impression. If strangers only view the falls from 
one side of the river, the prospect from the eastern 
shore is recommended as preferable. 

The Montmorenci and Chaudiere Falls, the village 
of Lorette and Lake St. Charles, together with the 
scenery of Orleans, a beautiful island six miles down 
the St. Lawrence, Beaufortand Point Levi, will always 
afford interesting excursions to the tourist at Cluebec. 

The St. Lawrence below CIuebec. — Those who 
have not seen this part of this greatest of the navigable 
rivers in the world, can form but a very imperfect idea 
of its grandeur, and the magnificence of its scenery. 
Above the island of Orleans, the St. Lawrence is com- 
paratively confined to a narrow channel passing through 
a level country, offering much sameness on the south 
shore, with the mountains on the north, too distant to 
produce much effect. The views on the great Lakes 
of the St. Lawrence in the Upper Province, stretching 
out of sight of land, differ little from those on any ex- 
tended sea coast studded with islands, and bordered 
with towns and habitations. 



330 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 

The St. Lawrence below the Island of Orleans, from 
many points on its northern banks, lays open to the 
view a hundred miles of a river varying from twenty to 
twenty-five miles in width, the whole course and coast 
of which, in this clear atmosphere, can bo distinctly 
discerned. Beautiful islands covered with neat dwell- 
ings and cultivated fields, contrast with those that are 
of bare rock, or covered with wood ; the crowded set- 
tlements, the villages and distant highlands on the 
south shore, are opposed to the bold and lofty moun- 
tains of the north, crowned with the native forests, and 
impending over the margin of the river, while the val- 
leys formed by the streams and torrents of these moun- 
tain regions, leave openings in which the village spires 
are discernible in front of the bare, rugged and stupen- 
dous ranges in the interior. In other places the set- 
tlements extend nearly to the tops of the mountains, 
presenting to the view neat dwellings, luxuriant har- 
vests, and green fields, etched out on the face of the 
wildest of nature's domains. Along the main channel 
of the river, numbers of the thousands of vessels which 
frequent Gluebec during the season of navigation, are 
continually passing up or down under crowded sails, 
or quietly anchored, waiting the tides or winds, and 
from behind every cape and promontory, among the isl- 
ands, and in every bay and creek, the smaller vessels 
and boats are constantly plying in the industrious pur- 
suits of the inhabitants, or on excursions of social in- 
tercourse. It is a scene which elevates the mind to 
devout contemplation, and a just appreciation of the 
benefits of peaceful industry. 



SAGUENAY RIVER. 331 

The inhabitants of this part of the St. Lawrence are 
estimated at about 100,000. 

The Saguenay, which enters the St. Lawrence on 
its northern shore, about 100 miles below (Quebec, is 
one of the most extraordinary rivers in the Morld. U 
is the grand outlet of the waters from the Saguenay 
country into the St. Lawrence, and although only a 
tributary stream, has the appearance of a long mountain 
lake, in an extent of fifty miles, rather than that of a 
river. The scenery is of the most wild and magnificent 
description. The river varies from about a mile to two 
miles in breadth, and follows its impetuous course in a 
south-east direction, through a deep valley formed by 
mountains of gneiss and sienitic granite, which in some 
places rise vertically from the water side to an elevation 
of two thousand feet. 

There is a feature attending this river, which renders 
it a natural curiosity, and is probably the only instance 
of the kind. The St. Lawrence is about eighteen miles 
wide at their confluence, and has a depth of about two 
hundred and forty feet. A ridge of rocks below the 
surface of the water, through which there is a channel 
about one hundred and twenty feet deep, lies across the 
mouth of the Saguenay, within which the depth in- 
creases to eight hundred and forty feet, so that the bed 
of the Saguenay is absolutely six hundred feet below 
that of the St. Lawrence into which it falls, a depth 
which is preserved many miles up the river. So extra- 
ordinary a feature could only occur in a rocky country, 
such as is found in some parts of Canada, where the 
beauties of nature are displayed in their wildest form. 
The course of the tide, meeting with resistance from 

DD 



332 SAGUENAT RIVER. 

the rocks at the mouth of the Saguenay, occasions a 
violent ripphng or surf, which is much increased and 
exceedingly dangerous to boats during the ebb tide. 
The extraordinary depth of the river, and the total want 
of information concerning it, has given rise to an idea 
among the credulous fishermen, of its being in many 
parts unfathomable. This effect is admissible on unin- 
formed minds, for there is always an appearance of 
mystery about a river when its water is even discol- 
oured so as to prevent the bed from being seen, and the 
delusion is here powerfully assisted by the lofty over- 
shadowing precipices of either shore. 

Following the course of the river upwards, it pre- 
serves a westerly direction to the distance of about 60 
miles, in some parts about half a mile broad, in others 
expanding into small lakes, about two miles across to 
their borders, being interspersed with a few low islands. 
In the narrow parts of the river, the depth at the dis- 
tance of a few yards from the precipice forming the 
bank is six hundred feet, and in the middle of the river 
it increases to nearly nine hundred. Here the navigation 
is suddenly terminated by a succession of falls and 
rapids, near which is situated the trading port of Chi- 
cotimy. At this place there is an old church, built 
about two centuries ago by the Jesuits, who were ac- 
tive in civilizing the native Indians. The church is still 
kept in decent repair by the Indians, and is annually 
visited by a missionary priest. These people are few 
in number and are not to be met with between this tra- 
ding post and the mouth of the river. A fine tract of 
country commences here, intersected by several rivers 
issuing from Lake St. John, distant about sixty- sevcQ 



FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL, 333 

miles farther to the westward. The Httlc communica- 
tion which is carried on with this lake is, by means of 
these rivers, in bark canoes and batteaux and flat- 
bottomed boats of the country ; but it is subject to 
much interruption from the portages or carrying places 
necessary to avoid the numerous falls in them. The 
tide of emigration is directed in this quarter. 

It was in this river that the ships of the French 
squadron found a secure retreat, at the memorable siege 
of (Quebec under Gen. Wolfe. 

At the mouth of the St. Lawrence, 360 miles below 
duebec, the river is 100 miles wide. It here connects 
with the Gulph of St. Lawrence, 350 miles long and 
1 50 wide, which communicates with the Atlantic by 
three different passages. 

FROM q,UEEEC TO MONTREAL. 

In returning to Montreal, the traveller (as before re- 
marked) should, if practicable, take a boat at such an 
hour, as to give him a chance of viewing by day-light 
on the river the scenery which, in descending, was 
passed in the night. 

The approach to Montreal in ascending the river is 
extremely beautiful. The mount behind the city cloth- 
ed in a rich and unbroken foliage, the numerous adja- 
cent country seats, the spires and edifices of the city, 
and the beautiful woody island in front, all conspire in 
presenting a rich and truly diversified landscape, and 
one that will not be easily effaced from the memory, 
[For a description of Montreal, seep. 300.] 



334 FROM MONTREAL TO WHITEHALL. 



FROM MONTREAL* TO WHITEHALL 

Is 178 miles, and the intervening distances are as 
follows ; 



Miles. 
By steam boat. 
From Montreal to La 

Prairie, 7 

By rail road. 

St. Johns,. 17 

By steam boat. 

Isle Aux Noix, 14 

Rouse's Point, 10 

Chazy, 12 



Miles. 

Plattsburgh, 15 

Port Kent, 15 

Burlinsfton, 11 

Split Rock, 12 

Essex, 2 

Basin Harbor,....,,. 12 

Crown Point,. ...... . 12 

Ticonderoga, , 15 

Whitehall, 24 



La Prairie, 7 miles from Montreal, is reached by 
steam boat. It is a village of between two and three 
hundred houses, and is the grand thoroughfare of trade 
between Montreal and St. Johns. 

The La Prairie and St. Johns Rail Road com- 
mences at this place and extends to St. Johns, the termi- 
nating point of steam boat navigation on Lake Cham- 
plain, The road, which is 17 miles long, is very straight, 
and over a remakrably level country ; and the time usu- 
ally employed in passing over it by steam is one hour. 

St. Joiivs, 17 miles. This place was an important 
post during the French and Revolutionary wars. In 



* At Montreal a stage can be taken twice a week for 
Danville, Vt., distance 100 miles ; from thence to the 
INiotch in the White Mountains, 28 miles ; from thence 
to Concord, N. H., 75 miles ; and from thence to Bos- 
ton, 63 miles. The whole route is performed in four 
days. [For a description of the White Mountains^ see 
'^ Route from BurHn^ton lo Boston.^^] 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 335 

the latter it was taken, after a gallant defence, by Gen. 
Montgomery, as was also Chambly, It contains, at 
present, 150 houses and 1000 inhabitants. Though a 
place of considerable business, it possesses nothing in 
its appearance or accommodations inviting to a stran- 
ger. Steam boats leave St. Johns daily for Whitehall, 
and touch at all the intermediate places on the Lake. 
Fare through, $5. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN 

Forms part of the boundary line between the states 
of New-York and Vermont. Its length is 140 miles, 
and the greatest breadth 14. A great proportion of the 
lands on the margin of the lake are still unredeemed 
from a state of nature, and in some places, particularly 
at the north end, are low and marshy. After entering 
the territories of the United States, the country is more 
populous, and under a better state of improvement. 
The villages seen from the lake all exhibit a cheerful 
and thriving appearance. The lake properly terminates 
at Mount Independence ; from whence to Whitehall, a 
distance of 23 miles, it assumes the appearance of a 
river, in which little more than room is left at any point 
to turn the boat. The history of Champlain involves 
many interesting events associated with the French and 
Revolutionary wars. During those periods several for- 
tifications were constructed, which have since under- 
gone some repairs, but are now in a state of decay. 
The ruins of the ancient fortresses at Ticonderoga and 
Crown Point are still visible. 

Isle Aux Noix, 14 miles from St. Johns. This is a 
strong military and naval post possessed by the Eng- 
dd2 



336 plattsbtjrgh. 

lish. The works are generally in good preservation ; 
and are occupied by a small military corps. In the ex- 
pedition against Canada in 1775, the troops under Gen- 
erals Schuyler and Montgomery went down the lake 
ia raits and landed at this island, from whence they 
proceeded to St. Johns. The other detachment, under 
General Arnold, marched by land through the present 
state of Maine (then a wilderness) to Q.uebec. 

Rouse's Poixt, at the outlet of Lake Champlain, 
and 10 miles from the Isle aux. Nois, contains strong 
stone fortifications, erected by the United States, but 
which by the decision of the commissioners appointed 
to settle the boundary line between the American and 
British governments, fell within the territories of the 
latter. 

The Village of Plattsburgh, 27 miles further, is 
handsomely located at the mouth of the Saranac river, 
on the west side of Lake Champlain. It contains about 
350 dwellings, besides the court house and prison for 
the coimty, a bank and several churches. The num- 
ber of inhabitants is about 3000. This place is render- 
ed celebrated by the brilliant victory of M'Donough and 
Macomb, over the Bridsh land and naval forces under 
Sir George Provost and Commodore Downie. The 
naval engagement took place in front of the village, 
which overlooks the extensive Bay of Plattsburgh for 
several miles. Here the American Commodore waited 
at anchor the arrival of the British fleet, which appear- 
ed passing Cumberland Head, about 8 in the momino- 
of the 11th September, IS 14. The first gun from the 
tieet was the signal for commencing the attack on land. 
Sir George Provost, with about 14.000 men, furiously 



PLATTSBURGH. 



337 



assaulted the defences of the town, whilst the battle 
raged with increasing ardor between the fleets, then 
contending in full view, of the respective armies. Gen- 
eral Macomb, with his gallant little army, consisting 
of about 3000 men, mostly undisciplined, foiled the 
repeated assaults of the enemy, until the capture of the 
British fleet, after an action of two hours, obliged him 
to retire, with the loss of 2500 men, together with 
considerable baggage and ammunition. The Ameri- 
can force on the lake consisted of 86 guns, and 820 
men ; and was opposed to a force of 95 guns, and 1050 
men. Thus ended the aflliir at Plattsburgh, no less 
honorable to American valor than derogatory to the 
British arms Commodore Downie v/as killed in the 
engagement. He was repre-sented as a brave and 
skilful officer ; but was opposed to the method of st- 
tack on the American flotilla. Both fleets are now dis- 
mantled, and moored at Whitehall. 

A monument erected to the rnemoiy of Commodore 
Downie, in the church yard at Plattsburgh, contains 
the following inscription : 

" Sacred to the memory of George Downie, Esq. 
a Post-Captain in the Royal British Navy, who glori- 
ously fell on board his B. M. S. the Confiance, while 
leading the vessels under his command to the attack of 
the American flotilla at anchor in Cumberland Bay, off 
Plattsburgh, on the 11th September, 1814. To mark 
the spot where the remains of a gallant officer and sin- 
cere friend wer« honorably interred, this stone has been 
erected by his affectionate sister-in-law Mary Downie," 

The remains of a number of officers of both armies, 
who fell in the engagement, repose near the Commo- 



338 PLATTSBTJRGH. 

dore, with no monument to inform the stranger, and 
with no record but tradition to denote the spot of their 
interment. East of Downie are five graves, occurring 
in the following order : Commencing south — Captain 
Copeland, an American ofncer — Lieut. Stansbury, of 
the American navy — Lieut. Runk, of the American ar- 
my — Lieut. Gamble, of the American navy — and a 
British Sergeant. On the north side of Downie are the 
remains of the British Lt. Col. Wellington— on the 
south, two British Lieutenants — on the west, Captain 
Purchase and four other officers, three of whom were 
British. 

The traveller will find many objects of interest at 
Plattsburgh, which will warrant his continuance there 
for one or two days. A short distance from the village 
are the cantonement and breast works occupied by 
Gen. Macomb and his troops during the last war. A 
mile north is shown the house possessed by Gen. Pre- 
vost as his head quarters during the siege in 1814; be- 
tween which and the village, the marks of cannon-shot 
on trees and other objects, are still visible. Farther 
onward, about 5 miles, on a hill overlooking the village 
of Beekmantown, is shown the spot where a sanguina- 
ry engagement took place between the American and 
British troops, which resulted in the death of the Brit- 
ish Col. Wellington, and several men of both armies. 
Col. W. was killed in the centre of the road, about 
equi-distant from the summit and foot of the hill, 

M^DonougJi's Farm, granted by the legislature of 
Vermont, lies on Cumberland Head, nearly east of 
Plattsburgh ; a ride to which, around the bay, in the 
warm season, is refreshing and delightful. 



PORT KENT — HIGH BRIDGE. 



339 



Port Kent, 15 miles southerly from Plattsburgh by 
water, and 15 by land. It contains a few buildings 
and a wharf, at which passengers are landed from the 
steam boat. From this place may be seen, on the 
north, the Isle La Mott, 26 miles distant, Grand Island, 
the Two Sisters, Point La Roche, Cumberland Head, 
and Belcore and Macomb's Islands ; on the east, Stave, 
Providence and Hog Islands, Colchester Point, and the 
Green Mountains of Vermont; on the south, the vil- 
lage of Burhngton, about 11 miles distant, with the 
high peak called the CamePs rump ; the whole form- 
ing a most delightful and pleasant landscape not ex- 
celled at any other point of the lake passage. Three 
miles w^est from Port Kent, are the celebrated 

Adgate's Falls, They are situated on the river 
A'Sable, and lake their name fi-om a person residing 
there, who is the proprietor of some valuable mills in 
the vicinity. The water pours over a precipice about 
80 feet in height, into a narrow channel of the river, 
the banks of which consist of rock, rising perpendicu- 
larly to the height of from 60 to 100 feet. At what is 
called the 

High Bridge, about half a mile below the falls, the 
channel is narrowed to 27 feet. The height of the rocks 
here, which are perpendicular, is 93 feet, and the water 
35 feet deep. Over this chasm a bridge was once 
erected, by throwing timbers across ; but it has since 
decayed. The sensations produced on looking into 
this gulf are terrific, and the stoutest heart involun- 
tarily shrinks from the contemplation. There is an 
indifferent road from the falls to the High Bridge, but, 
with this exception, the spot is yet a wilderness. 



340 BURLINGTON — CROWN POINT. 

About 4 miles in a westerly direction from this, is the 
thriving village of Keeseville, which contains several 
manufactories, a bank, two newspaper establishments 
and several handsome residences. It is a place of much 
enterprize, and is destined to become a large town. 

Burlington is situated on the east side of Lake 
Champlain, about 24 miles south-east of Plattsburgh. 
This is one of those beautiful villages which so often 
attract the notice of a stranger in the New-England 
states. The ground rises with a moderate ascent from 
the lake, and presents a slope covered with handsome 
houses and trees. On the highest part of the eminence, 
which is 330 feet above the level of the lake, stands the 
University of Vermont. This summit commands a 
noble view of the lake and the adjacent country for 
many miles. There are here about 350 houses and 
stores, a bank, court house, jail, and four churches.* 
About 12 miles from Burlington, in the town of Wills- 
borough, (N. Y.) is what is called the 

Split Rock. This curiosity is a part of a rocky 
promontory projecting into the lake, on the west side, 
about 150 feet, and elevated above the level of the wa- 
ter about 12 feet. The part broken off contains about 
half an acre, covered with trees, and is separated from 
the main rock about 20 feet. The opposite sides ex- 
actly fit each other — the prominences in the one cor- 



* Travellers designing to visit Boston, frequently 
take a stage at this place, on a route which is noticed 
in a subsequent part of this work. 



CROWN POINT — TICONDEROGA. 341 

responding wUh the cavities in the other. Through 
this fissure a Une has been let down to the depth of 500 
feet without finding bottom. 

Crown Point is situated 36 miles from Burlington, 
on the west side of Lake Champlain. It is formed by 
an extensive deep bay on the west, skirted by a steep 
mountain, and on the north and east by the body of 
the lake. The elevated plain was first occupied by the 
French, in 1731, as a military position, and abandoned 
by them in 1759, when General Amherst took posses- 
sion of it, and built Fort Frederick. The ruins of this 
fort may still be traced, being situated directly opposite 
to Chimney Point on the south side of the bay. After 
the peace of 1763, it was occupied by a subaltern and 
a mere safe-guard, until it was burnt by accident some- 
time previous to the American revolution. In 1775 it 
fell into the hands of the Americans, and was after- 
wards evacuated by them, on the advance of Burgoyne, 
in 1776. A few years since a number of British guineas 
were found here, from the accidental crumbling of the 
earth from the banks where they had been deposited. 

TicoNDEROGA, which has already been noticed, (see 
p. 191,) is situated 15 miles south of Crown Point, and 
24 miles north of Whitehall. 

One mile from Ticonderoga is Mount Indepen- 
dence, on the east side of the lake ; near the foot of 
which the remains of a small battery are still to be 
seen. What was called the Horse-Shoe battery w^as 
on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. 

jNine miles farther, the lake is contracted into four 



342 WHITEHALL — CHAMPLAIX CANAL. 

nairovv channels, bounded on the west and east by lof- 
ty mountains. 

South and East Bays are soon reached, each of 
about five miles in extent. The former was taken by 
Gen. Dieskau and his army, in their route towards 
Fort Edward in 1755. From the latter bay to White- 
hall, the passage is extremely narrow and of a serpen- 
tine course, and cannot be pursued in safety during a 
dark night. 

Whitehall, terminates the steam-boat navigation 
of Lake Champlain. It is an incorporated village sit- 
uated on the west bank of Wood creek at its entrance 
into the lake, 73 miles north of Albany, and contains 
about 250 dwellings and stores, and 2000 inhabitants. 
The situation of this place is low and unpleasant. 
It derives its principal consequence from the naviga- 
lion of the lake, which is passable for sloops of SO tons 
burthen, and from the Champlain canal, which here en- 
ters the lake. Burgoyne occupied this place for a short 
time, preparatory to his march to Saratoga; and on the 
heights, over the harbor, are the remains of a battery 
and block house.* 

THE CHAMPLAIN CANAL, 

Commencing at Whitehall, proceeds south five and a 
lialf miles, when it enters Wood creek, a narrow slug- 
gish stream, averaging 15 feet in depth. This creek is 
connected with the canal, and is rendered navigable for 

■^ A route from this place to Boston is noticed in a 
subsequent part of this work. 



FROM WHITEHALL TO TROT AND ALBANY. 343 

boats, for about 6^ miles, to Fort Ann village. From 
thence the canal proceeds through Fort Ann, Kings- 
bury, and Fort Edward, to Fort Miller falls, below 
which the canal enters the river, which is made naviga- 
ble 3 miles to Saratoga falls, where the canal is taken 
out of the river on the west side, and proceeds through 
Saratoga, Stillwater and Halfmoon, to VVaterford, where 
it enters the Hudson, and by a branch canal enters the 
Mohawk, which it crosses by a dam, and continuing 
I of a mile, joins the Erie canal in the town of Water- 
vleit. The whole length of the Champlain canal is 63 
miles. The cost to the state, exclusive of the feeder 
from Glen's Falls, was $875,000. 

The intervening distances on the canal between 
Whitehall and Albany are as follows : 

J\Iiles. I Miles. 

Fort Ann, 12 Stillwater V 3 

Sandy Hill 8 | Mechanics Ville, 3 



Fort Edward, 2 

Fort Miller Falls, 8 

Saratoga Falls, 3 

Schuylerville, 2 

Bemus' Heights, 12 



Waterford, 8 

Watervleit, 2 

Gibbon's Ville, 2 

Albany, 6 



FROM WHITEHALL TO TROY AND ALBANY. 
BY STAGE AND RAIL ROAD. 

Stages leave Whitehall* every morning on the ar- 
rival of the Champlain steam-boats, and reach Saratoga 
Springs in time to dine ; from whence the rail-road is 

* A rail-road is now constructing from this place to 
Saratoga Springs, which will render the traveUing by 
steam continuous from duebec to the southern states. 

EE 



344 FORT ANNE. 

taken for Troy or Albany immediately after dinner. 
The whole distance to the former place is 70 miles — 
ta the latter 76, and the intermediate distances as fol- 
low : 

J[Iile$. Miles. 



Bxj rail road. 

*Ballston Spa, 7 

Ballston Lake, 5 

Schenectady, 10 

Buei'3 Farm, 12 

Albany, S 



Bij stage. 
From "Whitehall to 

Fort Ann, 11 

Sandv Hill, 10 

FortVille, 7 

Wilton,...- 4 

Saratoga Springs,. ... 7 

The route is in a southern direction near the line of 
the canal, until reaching Fort Ann ; half a mile north 
of which place, at an elbow made by Wood creek^ 
leaving barely room between the creek and a precipi- 
tous hill for the road, a severe engagement took place 
in 1777, between a detachment of Burgoyne's troops 
and a party of Americans, under the command of Col. 
Sterry, who were on their retreat from Ticonderoga. 
The Americans were on the plain south of the hill, 
which served as a cover to the British. Their fire on 
Sterry'3 farces below was destructive, and conipelled 
him to abandon his position. 

The village of Fort Anne, 11 miles from Whitehall, 
contains 70 or 80 houses, and is located on the site of 
the old fort erected during the French war. It was at 
the north part of the village on the bank of the creek. 

Burgoyne^s road, commencing about 2 miles south of 



* For the rail road route to Trov, see pages 161 to>. 
164. 



FORT VIIXE. 34s 

the village, and pursuing Eearly the course of the pres- 
.ent road, is still visible. It was a caKseway, formed 
by logs laid transversely, a labor which became neces- 
sary in conveying his cannon and baggage waggons to 
Saratoga. 

Sandy Hill, 10 miles farther. {Seep. 181.) 

Fort Ville, a small village in the town of Morcau, 
is 7 miles farther. About half a mile west of the vil- 
lage, there is a large Spring, which ebbs and flows reg- 
ularly with the tide. It rises through a body of beauti- 
ful fine sand, containing yellow particles of a metalic 
substance, and has been found to answer every purpose 
ef the purest emery. It partakes, also, so much of the 
character of quick sand, that every weighty substance 
placed in the spring, even the longest sticks of timber^ 
are soon drawn beneath the surface. Falling, or even 
stepping into the fountain, therefore, is considered ex- 
tremely dangerons. At low water, the surface is near- 
ly dry ; but at high tide, the water is seen boiling up at 
several points, covering an area of near a quarter of an 
acre. 

About a mile south of Fort Ville, the stage passes 
over an eminence, which affords a beautiful view of the 
Green ^Mountains of Vermont at;the east and the inter- 
mediate country ; three miles from wliich is Wilton 
church ; from whence to Saratoga Springs is 7 miles 
[For a description of the latter place, together with the 
routes by rail road to Troy and Albany, see pa^es 148 to 
3 76. 



346 



FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON. 



ROUTES TO BOSTON. 

These are so various, that the traveller may alwaya 
be governed by his own taste and judgment in a selec- 
tion. The route from Albany has been chosen by ma- 
ny on account of enjoying in the excursion a visit to the 
Lebanon Springs ; while others have preferred a course 
which should embrace the rich mountain scenery of 
Vermont and New-Hampshire ; commencing their ex- 
cursions either at Saratoga Springs, Whitehall or Bur- 
lington. We therefore subjoin a description of the 
different routes. 



FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON. 

From Albany, stages leare daily for Boston, which 
is distant 164 miles, and the route is performed in two 
days. One line passes through Bennington and Brat- 
tleborough, Vt., but the most usual route is through 
New-Lebanon, Pittsfield, Northampton and Brookfield 
to Worcester, from whence a rail road is taken for the 
residue of the excursion. 

The distances on the last mentioned route are as fol- 
low: 



Miles. 
By stage. 

Schodack, 5 

Nassau, 12 

New-Lebanon, 8 

Pittsfield, 9 

Dalston,..,. 6 

Peru, 7 

Worthinojton, 8 

Chesterfield, 9 

Northampton, 13 



MUes. 

Hadley, 2 

Belchertown, 10 

Ware, 9 

Brookfield, 8 

Spencer,,.., 7 

Leicester, , 5 

Worcester, 6 

By rail road. 
Boston, 43 



NEW-LEBANOV. 347 

Albant, {see p. 144.) 

New-Leban'ON, is a pleasant village in 'the tow R of 
Canaan, N. Y. bordering or Pittsfield, Mass. and is 25 
miles from Albany. It contains a mineral spring of 
considerable importance, which is much frequented in 
the summer months by invalids, it is principally used 
for the purpose of bailing ; but is much inferior to the 
Saratoga waters cither as a medicine or beverage. 
The fouEtain issues from the side of a high hill, in great 
abundance, discharging at the rate of 18 barrels per 
minute ; and is used as a feeder for several mills. The 
water is remarkably pure and soft, and is perfectly 
tasteless and inodorous. Gas, in considerable quanti- 
ties, escapes from the pebbles and sand, and keeps the 
water in constant motion. It contains small quantities 
of muriate of lime, muriate of soda, sulphate of lime, 
and carbonate of lime ; and its temperature is 73 de* 
grees of Fahrenheit. 

Convenient bathing houses arc kept in readiness £t 
all times for the accommodation of strangers ; and 
there are a number of boarding establishments which, 
at different rates, afford proportionate fare. Among 
these, the Nayarino Hotel is a spacious and well fur- 
nished establishment, calculated to accommodate from 
100 to 150 guests. 

Near the spring is what is called the Shakers' Village, 
containing a number of neat plain buildings, generally 
painted yellow. The property of this society is held in 
common ; and they are said to possess nearly 3000 
acres of fertile land. Besides agricultural pursuits, they 
carry on several branches of manufactures, which ara 
ee2 



343 PITTSFIELD. 

distinguislied by excellence of workmanship. The sin- 
ocular regulations and ceremonies of these people, con- 
stitute an object of attention to tourists. Nine miles 
from New-Lebanon is the village of 

PiTTSFiELD, rendered elegant from its local situation, 
and from the neatness of its buildings. The village 
contains from 150 to 200 houses, a bank, a medical col- 
lege containing one of the best anatomical museums in 
the U, States, an academy, 2 printing offices and seve- 
ral stores. Here are annually held the cattle show and 
fair of the celebrated Berkshire Agricultural Society, 
which has been incorporated by act of the legislature ; 
and which has done more towards improving the con- 
dition of agriculture than any other institution of the 
kind in the Union. The show and fair, which occupy 
two days, never fail to impart an unusual degree of in- 
terest, and are always attended by immense crowds of 
citizens.* 



* About 24 miles north of Pittsfield, in the town of 
Adams, there is a J\/'atural Bridge, but little inferior to 
the celebrated Natural Bridge in Virginia. The exca- 
vation or gutter is in solid lime rock, 40 rods in length, 
varying from 50 to 60 feet in height, through which 
runs Hudson's Brook or the north branch of the Hoo- 
sic, occupying from 13 to 14 feet, which is the uninter- 
rupted width of the cup. Over this the bridge is 
thrown, being 62 feet from the bed of the brook, 15 
feet long, 10 wide, arched beneath, and what renders it 
a matter of greater curiosity, the arch is perfectly 
smooth, and beautifully white. On the west side of 
the arch is a circular cut room, large enough to contain 
ten persons. The whole place bears the marks of be- 
ing wrought by the irrigation of the waters in a most 



NORTHAMPTON. 349 

Northampton is 43 miles from Pittsfield, and is one 
of the finest towns in New-England. It is situated a 
mile and a half west of Connecticut river, and was set- 
tled as early as the year 1654. It contains two acade- 
mies, several churches, a bank, 2 printing-offices, a court 
house, jail, and 350 dwellings, some of which are very 
eleofant. The Congregational church is considered 
one of the most beautiful structures of the kind in the 
state. There are several manufactories here; and the 
place exhibits an unusual degree of cnterprize and 
wealth. The Farmington and Hampshire canal com- 
mences at this place, and extends to New-Haven, Conn. 
87 miles. Over the Connecticut river, there is a sub- 
stantial bridge, 1080 feet long, resting on six stone piers. 

Mount Holyoke, in the vicinity of Northampton, is 
much frequented by tourists. It is situated on the east 



workmanlike manner. For ages this cause must have 
operated in producing the result. In the neighbor- 
hood of the bridge the rocks are somewhat open ; up- 
on examining which, they are found leading to large 
caverns, worked o\it by the constant friction of the water. 
The roar of water and the sublimity of the scenery, 
produce an indescribable sensation upon the visitor, 
which induces him to retreat, being warned that he 
stands on slippery places. There are many traditions 
respecting the precipice — one is, that a war party of 
Indians, on an expedition to Brookfield, in one of the 
early Indian wars, was dashed to pieces on the rocks 
below. Some fifteen or twenty years ago, a Mr. 
Briggs, then a student in Williams' college, visited the 
place unaccompanied. Curiosity tempted him to ex- 
plore more fully the precipice, and, by the assistance 
of poles, he descended to the base of it. Here his eyes 



550 MOUKT HOLYOKE — HADLEY. 

side of the river opposite to Northampton. The height 
ef this mountain above the level of the river is 1070 
feet. In consequence of the resort to this place, which 
has not heen less than from two to five thousand annu- 
ally, two buildings have been erected on its summit 
for the purpose of accommodatmg visitors with re- 
freshments. The beautiful and extensive prospect af- 
forded from the top of the mountain, will amply com- 
pensate the labor and difficulty of the ascent. The 
view embraces eminences 160 miles apart, with several 
beautiful villages and a rich and fertile country interven- 
ing, and is said to be unrivalled in the eastern states. 

Hadlet, 2 miles from Northampton, is one of the 
oldest towns in the state. It was the head quarters of 
the army employed for the defence of the towns on the 



feasted upon the wonders of nature. His curiosity be- 
ing gratified, he began to think of returning. After re- 
peated trials he gave it up, and inscribed on the rock 
his farev^ell to his friends and the world. His voice 
could not reach the habitation of" man, and the rocks 
were, to all appearance, to be his grave. He, however, 
began to repeat the notching in the side, which was mar- 
ble, and after a painful labor of several hours, he effect- 
ed his escape. But the exertion proved too much ; 
it undermined his health, and in a few months he was 
conveyed to his grave. This place was discovered by 
a. iMr. Hudson, while travelling the wilderness, a few 
years before the French war. He came to it in the 
night, where he remained, and heard the roaring of the 
mighty torrent beneath him. The next morning he per- 
ceived that had he advanced a few steps more he would 
have been plunged into eternity. From this circum-« 
stance, the brook and the falls bear hi? name. 



UADI>ET. 



351 



Connecticut river, in the war with Philip in 1675— G ; 
and was, for a long time, the place of residence of the 
two regicides or judges, Whalley and GoHe,in thetimo 
of Charles the second. On the town being attacked by 
the Indians during this war, a stranger, venerable in 
appearance, and differing in his apparel from the rest 
of the inhabitants, suddenly presented himself at the 
head of the colonial troops, and encouraged them by 
his advice and example to perseverance in defending the 
place. To his experience in military tactics and cour- 
age, in a great measure, was a defeat of the Indians at- 
tributable. When they retreated, the stranger disap- 
peared ; and in those times of superstiiion it was verily 
believed by many that he was the guardian angel of the 
place. But he was no other than Col. Goffe, who see- 
ing the village in danger, left his concealment to unite 
with its inhabitants in a vigorous defence. 

In connection with the history of this place, the fol- 
lowing biographical sketch of Goffe, Whalley and Dix- 
weil will prove interesting: 

On the restoration of the English monarch, Charles 
2d, in 1660, several of the judges who sat on the trial of 
Charles 1st, were seized, condemned and executed. 
Others, foreseeing the result, escaped. Whalley and 
Goffe, two of the number, came to Boston ; where, for 
a time, they received the hospitality due to their rank. 
But on learning that several of the regicides had been 
executed, and that Whalley and Goffe had not been 
included in the act of pardon, the people who had har- 
bored them began to be alarmed; and the two judges 
abruptly departed for Connecticut. Subsequently, the 
King's proclamation was received, requiring their ap- 



352 HADLET. 

prehension. They, however, eluded the vigilance of 
their pursuers, by secreting themselves in a cave and 
■other secret places at New Haven, where they continu- 
ed, between three and four years, until their retreat was 
discovered by the Indians. Finding that they could 
no longer remain at NewHaven in safety, and that a 
vigilant search for them was still continued, they re- 
solved to remove into a more secluded part of the coun- 
try. A friend had succeeded in inducing the Rev. Mr. 
Russell, of Hadley, to receive them ; and after a toil- 
some journey by night, they reached his house in Octo- 
ber, 16G4, In a chamber of this house, (which was sit- 
uate on the east side, and near the centre of the present 
main street,) having a secret passage to the cellar, they 
remained undiscovered for fifteen or sixteen years. 
During this period, Goffe held a correspondence with 
his wife in England, under an assumed name ; and in 
a letter of April, 1679, it is stated that Whalley had di- 
ed some time previous, at Mr. Russell's. His bones 
were discovered not many years since in a sort of tomb 
adjoining the cellar wall of Mr. Russell's house. 

Not long after Goffe and Whalley arrived at Hadley, 
they were joined by Col. John Dixwell, another of the 
judges. After remaining some time, he went to New- 
Haven, assumed the name of Davids, was married, had 
several children, and his real name was not known un- 
til his death in 1639. He was buried in the church- 
yard at that place ; where a coarse stone still marks 
the spot of his interment, with this inscription : " J. D . 
Esq. deceased, March IS, in the 82d year of his age — 
1688-9." 



BROOKFIELD. 353- 

After the death of Whalley, Goffe travelled to the 
south, and no certain information relative to his fate has 
ever been obtained. 

From Hadley to Belchertown, a pleasant village, 
is 10 miles, and from thence to 

Ware Factory Village, is 9 miles farther. This 
place, located on the Ware River, has attained to an 
astonishing growth within five or six years. There are 
few places in the country exhibiting so barren and rug- 
ged a soil as the site and lands adjacent to this flour- 
ishing little city in miniature. As you approach from 
the west or east, it bursts upon the view v/ith its long 
range of manufactories, its neat white houses, and 
glittering spires, producing the same sensation in the 
bosom, as the prospect of a beautiful garden in the 
midst of a desert. It contains several public buildings 
which would be an ornament to our most flourishing: 
inland towns of more ancient date. 

Brookfield, 8 miles from Ware, is a handsome town,, 
though very little improved by any recent additions of 
buildings. This place was burnt by the Indians in 
1675. On the first alarm, the inhabitants, in all about 
70, repaired to a house shghtly fortified externally with 
logs, and internally lined with feather beds, to check 
the force of musketry. This spot was soon surround- 
ed by the enemy, and a constant fire poured upon it in 
all directions. Bat the well directed shots of the be- 
sieged kept the Indians at a considerable distance. 
Various devices were used by the latter for burning the 
building; but their plans were thwarted by the whites, 



354 WORCESTER. 

aided by a plentiful shower of rain. The attack con- 
tinued for three days ; when the appearance of a body 
of troops from Lancaster induced the Indians to seek 
their own safety in a precipitate retreat. All the build- 
ings in the village except the one fortified, were de- 
stroyed. Only one of the inhabitants, however, was 
killed ; while the loss of the Indians was SO. 

Leicester, 12 miles. The village contains an acad- 
emy, 3 churches and about 80 dwellings. The princi- 
pal employment of the inhabitants is the manufacture 
of cotton and woollen cards ; of which a very large 
amount is annually made. 

Worcester, (6 miles,) is one of the oldest and most 
important towns in the state. It contains from four to 
five hundred houses, generally well built, a bank, four 
printing offices, a court house, jail, and several public 
buildings. A newspaper which was commenced by 
Isaiah Thomas some time previous to the revolutionary 
war, is still published here, and is one of the oldest pa- 
pers in the Union. Mr. Thomas was the author of an 
elaborate history of the art of printing, and continued to 
reside here until his decease, a few years since. He 
erected in the village, at a very considerable expense, a 
handsome building, for the reception of the library and 
cabinet of the American Antiquarian Society, of which 
he was president. The library consists of about 6000 
volumes, many of them of great antiquity, and the 
cabinet is also very valuable. 

The BLACKSTO>fE Cakal commences at tliis place, 
and extends to Providence, R. I. Length, 45 miles — 
expense rising of $500,000. 



BOSTON AXD WORCESTER RAIL ROAD. 355 

The Boston and Worcester Rail Road was com- 
menced in 1832, and completed in 1835. Leaving 
Worcester, it crosses the Blackstone river, through the 
valley of which it passes for some distance, until strik- 
ing a ridge of slate rock, the cut through which is 37 
feet deep for a distance of 1500 feet ; tiience descend- 
ing at the rate of 30 feet to the mile over a rough coun- 
try, it enters the valley of Long Pond, v/hich is passed 
on a high embankment, until reaching Cutler's Peak ; 
from whence the valley of Elizabeth river is pursued to 
the town of Westborough ; where, passing the West- 
borough Swamp, the head of the Concord river, the 
valley of the latter stream is taken until reaching the 
direction of Natic Pond, the south end of which is 
doubled by a strong curve. Ascending at the rate of 
30 feet to the mile, the line soon enters Natic, which it 
leaves by a rock excavation of 20 feet, and passes the 
south end of Morse's Pond on an embankment 47 feet 
high and 700 feet long. Following for some distance 
a parallel line with the central turnpike, the road crosses 
the Worcester turnpike and reaches a pond half a mile 
long, the waters of which were originally 7 feet above 
the grade line. From thence there is an excavation 
through granite 31 feet deep and 500 feet long. Passing 
the town of Needham, there is a succession of heavy 
embankments and excavations, until reaching Charles 
river, which is crossed on a bridge 120 feet long, com- 
posed of a single span. Proceeding down the valley of 
the river, the line passes Newton ingoing two miles, and 
reaches Boston in going 8 miles farther — terminating 
not far from the foot of the comraon. 

FF 



356 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BOSTON. 



Worcester is 456 feet above Boston, but the greatest 
descent in any one place is 30 feet to the mile, and the 
average descent about lOg feet. The entire length of 
the road is 43^ miles, and the time employed in passing 
from one place to the other by steam, is from 2^ to 3 
hours. 

Boston. {See subsequent pages.) 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BOSTON. 



161 miles. Intervening distances as follow : 



Miles. 

Schuylerv-ille, 12 

Union Village, 5 

Cambridge, 8 

Arlington, 12 

Manchester, 12 

Landgrove, 15 

Chester, 15 

Bellows Falls, 14 

Walpole Village,.... 4 

Walpole, 4 

Keene, 14 

Marlborough, 5 



Miles. 

Jeffrey, 5 

New Ipswich, 10 

Townsend, 12 

Pepperel, 6 

Groton, 3 

Littleton, 8 

Acton, 3 

Concord, 7 

Lexington, 7 

Cambridge, 7 

Boston, 3 



A stage leaves Saratoga Springs every morning 
(Sundays excepted) at 5 o'clock, reaching Manchester 
the first day, Keene the second, and Boston the third, 
to dine. Fare $7,50. 

ScHUYLERViLLE, 12 milcs. {Seep. 179.) Passing 
across the vale where the surrender of Burgoyne tooli 
place to the river, (on the bank of which in a field ad- 
joining the road on the north, are seen the remains of 
an iiitreachment,) the stage crosses it in a horse- boat. 



MANCHESTER — CHESTER. 357 

Uniom Village, 5 miles. TheBattenkill river passes 
through the village, on the banks of which are several 
mills and factories. There are about 200 houses in the 
place ; and the number is constantly augmenting. 

Cambridge and Arlington are good agricultural 
townships. In the latter place, the route, for a consid- 
erable distance is on the bank of the Battenkill, near 
which are several valuable and extensive quarries of 
white marble. 

Manchester, 12 miles from Arlington, is a neat vil- 
lage, located near the foot ot the Green Mountains, 
which are seen stretching to the south and north as tar 
as the eye can extend. Leaving the village, the stage 
soon commences ascending the great natural barrier 
which separates the eastern and western sections of 
Vermont. No exertions have been spared to improve 
the road ; and it may be considered by far the best of 
anv which crosses the mountain. The ascent, which is 
not precipitous, continues, with occasional descents, for 
]0 or 12 miles before the summit is reached. During 
the first six miles, a most extensive and variegated 
prospect at the west is enjoyed ; and after attaining the 
greatest elevation, this is suddenly exchanged for a 
prospect nearly co-extensive at the east. 

Chester, 30 miles from Manchester, is a pleasant 
village, situated on a handsome plain, and contains two 
churches, an excellent academy, and about 60 dwellings 
and stores. 

Bellows Falls, 14 miles, lies on the western bank 
of the Connecticut river. The village is flourishing. 



358 BELLOWS FALLS. 

contains some very pleasant houses, a number of man- 
ufacturing establishments, and a beautiful church, which 
stands on an eminence, and is seen for some miles 
distant. 

A canal, having 9 locks and affording water for a 
number of mills, has been constructed around the falls. 
It is about half a mile in length. The whole descent of 
the river for this distance is fifty feet, and assumes the 
appearance of rapids rather than a cataract. Over the 
greatest descent, where the water is compressed by 
ledges of rocks to a very narrow space, a handsome 
toll bridge is erected, fifty feet in height, from which 
the water is seen rushing through the pass with great 
rapidity, and dashing upon the rocks in the Avildest dis- 
order — presenting a scene truly sublime and inter- 
esting. 

A short distance below the falls are two rocks con- 
taining {specimens of Indan v.orkmanship. On one of 
the rocks are the indistinct traces of a number of hu- 
man faces, represented by marks in the stone, and 
probably intended as a memorial of their deceased 
friends or chieftains. That this place was once the 
haunt of our savage predecessors, is evident from the 
arrow points and bits of their earthon pots and frag- 
ments of other utensils which may be found in a short 
walk over the adjacent fields. * 

* From Bellows Falls, stages can be taken every day 
for Concord, N. H. and for Hartford, Conn. On the 
latter route, the course is generally near the bank of 
the Connecticut river, and through a most delightful 
country, interspersed with several elegant villages and 
country seats. 



WALPOLE KEENE — GROTON — CONCORD. 359 

On the New-Hampshire side is a chain of lofty 
mountains, which leave but a narrow passage between 
their base and the river. Around one of these impend- 
ing barriers the road winds its course to the pleasant 
village of 

V/alpole, which contains about 100 houses, includ- 
ing some very handsome mansions. This place was 
the scene of many savage incursions during the French 
war. It was once in the entire possession of the Indi- 
ans, and retaken from them by Col. Bellows, who made 
the first settlement in this part of the country. The 
scenery in this vicinity is remarkably striking and ro- 
mantic. Ten miles farther is the flourishing village of 

Keene. This is one of the handsomest villages in 
New-England, and is situated a few miles east of the 
Connecticut river. It contains about 300 dwellings, a 
bank, a court house and jail, 3 churches, and a popula- 
tion of about 3000. For a distance of 40 miles from 
this place, no village of importance intervenes, though 
many handsome dwellings and rich farms are discov- 
ered on the route. 

Groton, 41 miles from Keene, is a pleasant village, 
containing about 100 houses and an academy ; seven 
miles from which is the town of 

Concord, rendered memorable as the place where 
the first efficient opposition was made to the British 
troops, in 1775. It is a large town, and contains many 
ff2 



360 LEXINGTON. 

handsome dwellings. Eight miles from which is the 
town of 

LEXiKGToy, containing a few plain houses ; but cel- 
ebrated in history as the spot where the first American 
blood was shed in the struggle for independence. This 
occurred on the 19th of April, 1775. A quantity of mil- 
itary stores had been collected at Concord, which the 
British General Gage proposed to destroy. Though 
secret in his operations, and though precaution had 
been taken the evening previous to scour the roads and 
secure such citizens as the British officers fell in with, 
yet the plan was discovered by Doctor Warren, of Bos- 
ton, who sent out messengers to alarm the inhabitants 
and prepare them for resistance. On the arrival the 
next morning at Lexington of the British troops, S or 
900 strong, it was found that the mihtia of the town, to 
the number of 70, were in arms. Major Pitcairn, who 
led the British van, ordered the " rebels" to disperse. 
Some scattering guns were fired, which were followed 
by a general discharge, and continued till the militia 
disappeared. Eight men v/ere killed and several 
wounded.* 

The detachment then proceeded to Concord, a part 
of which took possession of two bridges beyond the 
town, while the remainder destroyed the military stores. 
A number of militia, who had collected in the vicinity, 
but with orders not to give the first fire, attempted to 



* A handsome monument now marks the spot where 
this action was fought, beneath v.'hich are interred the 
remains of the Americans who were slain. 



CAMBRIDGE, 361 

pass one of the bridges in the character of travellers. 
They were fired on, and two men killed. The fire was 
returned and a skirmish ensued, which resulted in the 
discomfiture of the regulars, and a precipitate retreat. 
Skirmishing continued during the day, and though the 
British received reinforcements, they were harrassed in 
their retreat to Bunker's Hill, where they remained se- 
cure under the protection of their ships of war. 

The loss of the British, during this day, in killed, 
wounded and prisoners, was 273 ; while that of the 
provincialists did not exceed 80. 

The blow thus struck was the precursor of more im- 
portant events, and was soon followed by the battle of 
Breed's or (as it is generally denominated) Bunker's 
Hill ; which is noticed in subsequent pages. 

Caimbridge is situated 7 miles from Lexington. It 
is a large and handsome town, but derives its impor- 
tance from Harvard Universty, which is located here, 
and is one of the oldest and most celebrated literary in- 
stitutions in the United States. It takes its name from 
the Rev. John Harvard, who died in 163S, leaving to 
the institution a legacy of 779/. 17s. 2d. sterling. The 
edifices belonging to the University are Harvard, Mas- 
sachusetts, Hollis, Stoughton, Holworthy and Univer- 
sity Halls, Holden Chapel, a new stone building re- 
cently erected, and 3 College houses, besides that for 
the President. These buildings are all situated in a 
spacious square, and are handsomely shaded with a 
variety of trees. There are annually educated here 
about 300 students. The amount of property belong- 
ing to the institution, it is said, falls little short of $600,- 



362 FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON. 

000. It contains an extensive philosophical aparatus, 
and a library of about 25,000 volumes. Cambridge 
contains 3 handsome villages, a court house, jail, state 
arsenal, 8 houses of public worship, and about 5000 in- 
habitants. 

Two miles from Cambridge is the city of Boston. 
The two places are connected by a bridge 3846 feet 
long and 40 wide, with a causeway of 3344 feet. The 
cost of the whole was $76,700. [For a description of 
Boston, see subsequent pages.] 

FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON — 17S milcS. 

A stage leaves Whitehall daily, (Sundays excepted) 
passing through the villages of Castleton and Rutland,* 
connecting at Chester with the route from Saratoo^a 
Springs, and reaches Boston the third day. 

Fairhaven, 9 miles from Whitehall, contains sever- 
al mills and manufactories of iron, and about fifty 
houses. 

Castleton, 5 miles farther, is a handsome village of 
about 100 houses, and contains a medical college and 
classical seminary, the latter located on an eminence 
south of the village, and commanding an extensive 
view of a rich and beautiful country. It is 160 feet in 
length and 40 in breadth, with projections in the cen- 
tre and ends of 46 and 55 feet, and is 3 stories high, 



* A rail road is about being constructed from White- 
liall to this place. 



CASTLETON. 363 

exclusive of a basement. To the building is attached 
a play-ground of about six acres, a part of which is to 
be devoted to a garden. The course of instruction in 
this institution, which is liberally patronized, corres- 
ponds with that of the most favored seminaries of learn- 
ing in the country. 

About half a mile north of the village, at the junction 
of the Hubbardton with the main road, are slight re- 
mains of a fort and breast work, which were occupied 
during the revolutionary war ; two miles north of which 
the Hubbarton road passes over the ground where a 
severe action was fought between a detachment of Bur- 
goyne's army and a body of American troops. The 
latter composed the rear guard of the Americans 
which evacuated Ticonderoga in July, 1777, and were 
commanded by Col. Warner. They were about 1000 
strong, and were overtaken by a force of nearly the 
same number under Gen. Frazer. A long, severe and 
obstinate conflict ensued ; when the arrival of General 
Reidsell, with his division of Germans, compelled the 
Americans to give way in all directions. The British 
loss was stated by Gen. Eurgoyne at 35 killed and 144 
wounded; and the American loss was estimated by 
Gen. St. Clair at 50 killed and wounded. It is gener- 
ally supposed that the loss of both armies was much 
greater. 

The Americans retreated to the south, and took part 
in the Bennington battle on the 16th of August, and in 
the capture of Burgoyne at Saratoga in October fol- 
lowing. 



364 FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON. 

Rutland, 10 miles from Castleton, is the capital of 
Rutland county. It is situated 3 miles west of the 
Green Mountains, in view of Killington Peak, and for 
beauty of local situation is not surpassed by any vil- 
lage in the northern states. It contains about 200 hou- 
ses, three churches, a bank, court house and jail. 

Ten miles from Rutland, in the town of Shrewsbu- 
ry, the road reaches the foot of the Green Mountains, 
which are crossed in travelling 12 miles farther. No 
part of the passage is precipitous ; though the road is 
less pleasant than that leading from Manchester. {See 
p. 357.) 

Chester is 40 miles from Rutland, from whence the 
route to Boston is the same as that noticed at page 
357. 

FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, 

(through Windsor, Vt.) 
From Burlington, Vt. where the Champlain steam- 
boats touch in the passage up and down the lake, sta- 
ges depart for Boston daily, passing through Montpe- 
lier and Windsor, Vt., Claremont and Amherst, N. H., 
Billerica and Medford, Mass., and reach Boston on the 
third day. Distance 208 miles— fare $8. The inter- 
vening distances are as follow : 



FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON. 



365 



Miles. 

Williston, 8 

Richmond, 9 

Colton, 2 

Waterbury, 8 

Moretown, 4 

Montpelier, 7 

Williamstown, 10 

Brookfield, 8 

Randolph, 12 

Royaiton, 3 

Barnard, 6 

Woodstock, 8 

Windsor, 14 

Claremont, 9 



Miles. 

Lempster, 12 

Washington, 7 

Hillsborough, 9 

Francistown, 9 

Mount Vernon, 9 

Amherst, 6 

Merrimack, 3 

Dunstable, 7 

Tyngsborough, 6 

Chelmsford, 7 

Billerica, 4 

Woburn, 9 

Boston, , 10 



Burlington. (Seep. 340.) 



Montpelier is situated on the Onion river, a little 
north of the centre of the state, 38 miles from Burling- 
ton. It is at present the seat of government, and has 
a new and elegant state house, a court house, jail and 
3 houses of public worship, besides a number of man- 
ufacturing establishments. It contains about 2000 in- 
habitants. 

With the exception of a narrow vale, through which 
the river passes, the villag-e is surrounded by lofty hills 
and mountains, which give it the appearance of seclu- 
sion from the rest of the world. The road for several 
miles previous to reaching the village, and after leaving 
it, is on the bank of the river, and the mountain scene- 
ry is unusually romantic. 

In passing from Montpelier to Randolph, the route 
is on what is termed the gulph road. This gulph is 6 



366 WOODSTOCK — WINDSOR. 

miles in extent, between lofty mountains, ^vith barely 
a sufficient space for a road and the White river, a 
beautifully transparent stream, exhibiting, in most in- 
stances, a bottom of white gravel. 

Randolph, 30 miles from Montpelier, is on a lofty 
ridge of land affording some of the finest farms in the 
state. The village is small, but much admired for its 
location and neatness. 

Rot ALTON, 3 miles. A pleasant village. 

"Woodstock, 14 miles, the capital of Windsor coun- 
ty, is a place of considerable business. The principal 
village, called Woodstock Green, is on the bank of 'he 
dueechy river, and contains a bank, court house, jui!, 
five churches and a w^oollen factory — also an extensive 
manufactory of scythes. 

Windsor, 14 miles, is a beautiful town on the west 
bank of the Connecticut. The houses exhibit a very 
neat and handsome appearance, and stand in a fertile 
and richly cultivated tract of country. It contains a 
bank, female seminary, a number of churches, and 
the Vermont Penitentiary. The bridge built across the 
Connecticut at this place is one of the handsomest on 
the river. Ascxdney, a mountain in the south-west part 
of the town, is 1732 feet in height, and is well worthy 
the attention of those who take delight in the rich and 
diversified prospects afforded from mountain summits. 

At Windsor the route crosses the Connecticut river 
into New-Hampshire, and proceeds through a fertile 



FROM CUPwLINGTON TO BOSTON. 



36r 



country, occasionally iaterspeised wilh a pleasant vil- 
lage, to Boston. 



FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, 

(By lomj of the JVhite J\Iountains and Concord, JV'eje- 
Hampshire) — 275 miles.* 

The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- 
low : 



Miles. 




Miles. 


From Burlington to 




Union Bridge,. . . . 


7 


Montpelier,-... 38 




Wiiniepiseogee 




Littleton, N. H... 40 




Bridge, 


4 


E. A. Crawford's,. 18 




Concord, 


17-202 


Notch of the White 




Hookset, 


8 


Mountains, 5 




Amoskeao;, 


7 


Notch House,. .. 2 




Piscataqua, 


2 


Crawford's Farm, G 




Merrimack,. ..... 


10 


Bartlett, 7 


128 


Nashua, 


6 


Conway 10- 


Tyngsboro', 


8 


Six Mile Pond, ..11 




Lowell, 


7 


Centre Harbor,. . 24 


Bij rail road. 




Gruildford,. . . • • • • 13 




Boston,. . r. 


25-275 









* Strangers designing to proceed directly to Boston 
from Burlington, via Concord, N. H. without visiting 
the White mountains, continue on the route from Mont- 
pelier to Randolph, as noticed at p. 365, and from thence 
to Hanover, 25 miles, and to Concord 55 miles farther. 
(The route from the latter place to Boston is noticed at 
p. 378.) Hanover is located on a handsome plain, half 
a mile from the Connecticut river, and contains the 
buildings of Dartmouth college and about 80 dwelling 
houses. The college derives its name from William, 
Earl of Dartmouth, one of its principal benefactors. It 
was founded in 1769, by the late Doct. Eleazer Whee- 
lock, and is in a flourishing condition. A medical in- 
ca 



363 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

A stage can be taken at Burlington daily for Mont- 
pelier, Vt. distant 3S miles, where it is recommended lo 
travellers to proceed to Littleton, N. H. 40 miles east 
of Montpelier, from whence a stage passes three times 
a week through the Js'olch of the White Mountains to 
Conway ; and from thence to Portland, (Maine,) three 
times a week. From Littleton to Ethan A. Crawford's 
at the foot of the mountains, 18 miles, about half the 
distance is through a cultivated country ; but the re- 
maining part is through an extensive, and, but for the 
road, an impenetrable forest. 

The first view of the White Mountains, as distin- 
guished from the multitude of peaks and summits 
which meet the eye in every direction, is obtained a 
short distance from Littleton ; but Mount Washington 
is not seen till arriving near to Crawford's. The first 
view of these mountains is magnificent, and as they 
are approached, they become more and more so, until 
the bare bleak summit of Mount Washington, rising 
far above the immense piles which surround it, strikes 
the traveller with awe and astonishment. But the emo- 
tions which one receives from the grand and majestic 
scenery which surrounds him here, are utterly beyond 
the power of description. There is no single object up- 
on which the eye rests and which the mind may grasp, 



stitution is connected with the college, and is accom- 
modated with a brick edifice, containing, besides rooms 
for students, a laboratory, anatomical museum, miner- 
alogical cabinet, library and lecture rooms. The num- 
ber of students educated at this college annually is be- 
tween 2 and 300. 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. S60 

but the vast and multiplied features of the landscape 
actually bewilder while they delight. 

These mountains are the loftiest in the U. States east 
of the Rocky mountains ; and their heights above the 
Connecticut river have been estimated as follows : 
Washington, 5350 ft. ; Jefferson, 5261 ; Adams, 5383; 
Madison, 5039 ; Monroe, 4932 ; auincy, 4470. From 
the summit of Mount Washington, the Atlantic ocean 
is seen at Portland, 65 miles S. E. ; the Katahdin 
Mountains to the N. E. near the sources of the Penob- 
scot river ; the Green Mountains of Vermont on the 
west ; Mount Monadnock, 120 miles to the S. W. ; and 
numerous lakes, rivers, &c. within a less circumference. 
The Match or Gap is on the west side of the mountains, 
and is a deep and narrow defile, in one place only 22 
feet wide. A road passes through, which crosses 
the river Saco ; into which several tributary streams 
enter from the mountain heights, forming many beau- 
tiful cascades. Lafayette Mountain is situated in the 
northeast part of the township of Franconia, nearly 
equidistant from Mount Washington^at the northeast, 
and Moose-Hillock at the southwest, being about 20 
miles from each ; and it is obviously more elevated 
than any other summit in sight except the White 
Mountains. 

At the Franconia Notch, near the road leading from 
Franconia to Plymouth, and about three miles south of 
Mount Lafayette, a foot path has been cleared out from 
the road to the top of the mountain. The point where 
the path commences is six miles from the Franconia 
iron works, and the length of it from the road to the 
summit is three miles : and throughout this distance 



370 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

it is almost uniforraly steep. The ascent for the dis- 
tance of about two miles is through a tiiick forest of 
hemlock, spruce, &c. Higher up, the mountain is en- 
compassed with a zone, about half a mile in width, cov- 
ered with stinted tree?, chiefly hemlock and spruce. 
Above the upper edge of this zone, which is about half 
a mile from the top, trees and shrubs disappear. Tho 
summit is composed chiefly of bare rocks, partly in 
large masses, and partly broken into small pieces. 

The view from tho top is exceedingly picturesque 
and magnificent. Although it is not so extensive as 
that from the summit of Mount Washington, yet ow- 
ing to the more advantageous situation of Lafayette, 
being more central as it respects this mountainous re- 
gion, it is not inferior to either in beauty or grandeur. 
The view to the northca.'-t, east, south and southwest, 
is one grand panorama of mountain scenery, present- 
ing more than fifty summits, which when viewed from 
this elevation do not appear to differ greatly in height. 
Some of these mountains are covered with verdure to 
the top, v/hilo the summits of others arc composed of 
naked rocks ; and down the sides of many of them 
may b3 seen slides or ai'alanckes of earth, rocks and 
trees, more or less extensive, which serve to diversify 
the scene. The only appearance of cultivation in this 
whole compass is confined to a fev/ farms seen in a di- 
rection vv'cst of south, on tlic road to Plymouth, extend- 
ing along the Pemigevv-a??et branch of the Merrimack. 
To lbs west is seen the territory watered by the Con- 
necticut and the Ammoiioosuck. 

At a place in the road through the Franconia Notch 
where the path up the mountain commences, is exhi- 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 371 

bited to the view of the traveller, on the mountain 
opposite to Lafayette, the Profile or the Old Man of the 
J\lountain, a singular limts naturce, and a remarkable 
curiosity. It is situated on the brow of the peak or 
precipice, which rises almost perpendicularly from the 
surface of a small lake, directly in front to the height 
(as estimated) of from 600 to 1000 feet. The front of 
this precipice is formed of solid rock, but as viewed 
from the point where the profile is seen, the whole of it 
appears to be covered with trees and vegetation, ex- 
cept about space enough for a side view of the Old 
Man's bust. All the principal features of the human 
face, as seen in a profile, are formed with surprising 
exactness. The little lake at the bottom of the preci- 
pice, is about half a mile in length, and is one of the 
sources of the Pemigewasset river. Half a mile to the 
north of this there is another lake, surrounded with 
romantic scenery, nearly a mile in length, and more 
than half a mile in breadth. This is one of the sources 
of the southern branch of the Ammonoosuck, which 
flows into the Connecticut. These lakes are both sit- 
uated in the Notch, very near the road, and near to 
the point where the steep ascent of Mount Lafayette 
commences. The northern lake is 900 feet above the 
site of the Franconia iron works, and the highest point 
in the road through the Notch is 1028 feet above the 
same level. Other curiosities in this vicinity are, the 
Basin and the Pulpit. 

A portion of the Gap, including the Notch in the 
White jMountains, which is the most sublime and inter- 
esting, is about 5 or 6 miles in length. It is composed 
of a double barrier of mountains, rising very abruptly 
gg2 



372 WHITE M0UNTAIK3. 

from both Bides of the wild roaring river Saco, which 
frequently v/ashes the feet of both barriers. Sometimes 
there is not room for a single carriage to pass between 
the stream and the mountains, and the road is cut into 
the mountain itself. This double barrier rises on each 
side to the height of nearly half a mile in perpendicular 
altitude, and is capped here and there by proud castel- 
lated turrets, standing high above the continued ridges. 
These are not straight, but are formed into numerous 
zigzag turns, which frequently cut off the view and 
seem to imprison the traveller in the vast, gloomy gulf. 
The sides of the mountains are deeply furrowed and 
scarred by the tremendous effects of the memorable 
deluc^e and avalanches of 1826. No tradition existed 
of any slide in former times, and such as are now ob- 
served to have formerly happened, had been complete- 
ly veiled by forest growth and shrubs. At length, on 
the 28th of June, two months before the fatal avalanche, 
there was one not far from the Willey house, which 
so far alarmed the family, that they erected an encamp- 
ment a little distance from their dwelling, intending it 
as a place of refuge. On the fatal night, it was impen- 
etrably dark, and frightfully tempestuous ; the lonely 
family had retired to rest, in their humble dwelling, six 
miles from the nearest human creature. The avalan- 
ches descended in every part of the gulf, for a distance 
of two miles ; and a very heavy one began on the 
mountain top, immediately above the house, and de- 
scended in a direct line towards it; the sweeping tor- 
rent, a river from the clonds, and a river full of tree?, 
earth, stone and rocks, rushed to the house and mar- 
vellously divided within six feet of it, and just behind 



WUITE MOUNTAINS. 373 

it, and passed on either side, sweeping away the stable 
and horses, and completely encircling the dwelling, but 
leaving it untouched. At this time, probably towards 
midnight, (as the state of the beds and apparel, &c. 
showed that they had retired to rest,) the family issued 
froiii the house, and were swept away by (he torrent. 

Search, for two or three days, was made in vain for 
the bodies, when they were at length found. They 
%vere evidently floated along by the torrent and covered 
by the drift wood. A pole, with a board nailed across 
it, like a guide post, now indicates the spot where the 
bodies v»'ere found. Had the family remained in the 
house they would have been entirely safe. Even the 
little green in front and east of the house was undis- 
turbed, and a flock of sheep, (a part of the possession 
of the family,) remained on this small spot of ground, 
and were found there the next morning in safety — al- 
though the torrent dividing just above the house, and 
forming a curve on both sides, had swept completely 
around them, again united below, and covered the 
meadows and orchard Avith ruins, which remain there 
to this day. Nine persons were destroyed by this ca- 
tastrophe, and t!ie story of their virtues and their fato 
is often told to the traveller by the scattered popula- 
tion of these mountain vallies, in a style of simple 
pathos and minuteness of detail, which has all the in- 
terest of truth and incident of romance in its recital. 
The scene of this disaster was about 7 miles from 
Ethan A. Crawford's, and 2 miles from the commence- 
ment of the Notch, where Thomas Crawford, a 
■brother of Ethan, now resides. 



374 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

The number of visitors to the White Mountains has 
been considerably increased, on account of the interest 
excited by these avalanches. The most subhme views of 
them, (several of which are nearly equal to the memo- 
rable one which swept away the unfortunate Willey 
family,) may be seen all along for several miles, in 
passing through the Notch. They are also observed 
from various points in the country around, extending 
down the sides of many of the elevated mountains ; 
and the astonishing effects of this extraordinary inun- 
dation are also witnessed in the great enlargement of 
the channels of the streams which rise in these clusters 
of mountains. This is the fact especially with regard to 
the channel of the principal branch of the Ammonoo- 
suck, which rises near the summit of Mount Wash- 
ington. 

The camp which was built by Mr. Crawford for the 
accommodation of visitors over night, two miles and a 
quarter from the summit of Mount Washington, was 
situated near this branch, and was carried away by 
the swelling of the stream. A small camp has been 
erected in its place, but it is of little use, and affords no 
accommodations for lodging visitors over night. 

The distance from Crawford's house to the summit 
of Mount Washington, is nine miles. Through a part 
of this distance a carriage road is now made, leaving 
only 4 or 5 miles to be ascended on foot. The time 
usually occupied in ascending the mountain, reckoning 
from the time of leaving Crawford's house to the time 
of returning to it again, is from ten to fourteen hours ; 
and the shortest time in which the enterprise has been 
performed is about eight hours. 



FRTEBURGH. 375 

CGntinuinG: tha route through tho Notch, the first 
.nouse reached la the elder Crav.Tord's, six miles from 
the " Notch house," as that once occupied by the un- 
fortunate "Willey is called. From thence to Bartlett is 
seven miles. From this place to Conway, which is ten 
miles, there are more appearances of cultivation, par- 
ticularly in the little valley through which the road 
passes. The country around, however, is stili wild and 
unimproved, displaying a succession of bold and lofty 
mountain scenery. The prospect at the village of 
Conv<-ay is bounded on the north and west by high 
mountains, and the several summits of the White Moun- 
tains, rising at 30 miles distance, are more easily distin- 
guished than at any point near them. 

Frtebup.gh, in Maine, is 10 miles from Conr»\iy 
and is generally taken in the route to the White 
Mountains from the east. It is a considerable village^ 
built upon a wide plain upon two broad streets, and 
has a respectable academy. It is chiefly interesting 
OS being associated v.-ith the early history of our cour- 
try. About a mile from the village is Lovell's pond, 
the scene of the bloody fight in 1725 between a gallant 
band of Americans under Capt. Lovell, and the rem- 
nant of the Pequawket tribe under the renowned Chief 
Paugus. From Frycburgh to Portland, distant 52 
miles, the road is over a dull and uintercsling country • 
ijut travellers designing to visit that place in connec- 
tion with the White Mountains will find it the most di- 
rect route. [For a description of Portland, see the route 
from Boston to that place in subsequent pcges.l 



376 FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD. 

FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD, N. H. 76 mlleS. 

Returning to Conway, and proceeding on the route 
to Concord, Six Mile Pond is passed in going 11 miles, 
and Centre Harbor is reached in going 24 miles far- 
ther. The road for 20 or 30 miles, is through a valley 
bordered with lofty mountains, exhibiting only an oc- 
casional settlement. 

Centre Harbor is on Lake Winnipiseogee, the lar- 
gest lake in the state. It is 23 miles long and from 6 
to 14 broad, and is remarkable for its beautiful and 
sublime scenery. It discharges its v.aters through the 
Winnipiseogee river into the Merrimack, 232 feet be- 
low the lake. From the top of Red J\Iountain in Cen- 
tre Harbor, 1 500 feet high, and which is accessible for 
about two thirds of the way in a carriage, there is an 
extensive prospect. At the distance of 70 miles to the 
southwest may be seen Mount Monadnock ; at the 
west, the Kyarsage and Simson mountains ; at the 
north-west, the Moose Hillock ; at the north, the Sand- 
wich mountains, with the Squam lake intervening ; at 
the south-east, the Winnipiseogee lake, with its nu- 
merous islands, bays, and the mountains which rise 
from its borders, including Ossippee on the north-east, 
Gun stock on the south, and a semi- circular mountain 
at the termination of the lake at the south-east ; the 
whole forming a vast billowy ocean of lofty mountains, 
with their grand intersecting curves, exhibiting a com- 
plete panorama of the sublimest mountain scenery. 

Squam Lake, which lies west of the mountain, is 10 
miles long and 5 wide, and like the Winnipiseogee, is 



CONCORD. 377 

sprinkled with numerous small and beautiful islands. 
The finest of trout are caught in these lakes, and their 
shores abound with an abundance of game, affording 
to the angler and fowler ample means of employment 
as well as amusement. 

The route from CentreHarbor to Concord,* 41 miles, 
passes through an interesting country, affording a view 
of several flourishing manufacturing villages. 

Concord is the capital of New-Hampshire. The 
village is principally composed of two streets on the 
west bank of the Merrimack river, and contains a state 
house, state prison, town house, bank, several church- 
es, 4 or 5 printing offices, and about 300 dwelling hou- 
ses. The state house, located near the centre of the 
village, is an elegant building of hewn granite, 100 
feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and the 
senate and representatives' chamber on the second. 
The building is surrounded by a spacious yard, which 
is enclosed by a handsome wall. The state prison, a 
strong building, is a short distinco from the state 
house. 



* Another route from Centre Harbor, and which will 
be preferred by those who do not wish to visit Concord, 
is to take the steam boat which crosses tlie lake, (which 
is here 25 miles wide,) 3 times a week to Alton Bay ; 
from whence stages are taken to Dover, N. II. '10 miles 
distant ; and from thence to Boston, through Ports- 
mouth, N. H., Newburyport and Salem, Mass., 60 
miles farther. By this ro\ite, passengers leaving Con- 
way in the morning, reach Dover the same evening, 
and Boston the next day at noon. Fare on the entire 
route, ^9. 



378 FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON. 

The Merrimack river is navigable for large boat? 
from Concord to Chelmsford ; from whence to Boston 
the communication is continued in the Middlesex ca- 
nal, 28 miles long. 

FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON 73 milcS. 

Stages leave Concord every day, passing through 
Hooksct, Amoskeag, Piscataqua, Merrimack, Nashua, 
and Tyngsboro' to Lowell, from whence a rail road 
is taken to Boston. The route is mostly along the 
bank of the Merrimack river; v/hich, owing to its rapid 
descent, afibrds many important manufacturing facil- 
ities. 

Nashua, 35 miles from Concord, is the most impor- 
tant village between that place and Lowell. It is con- 
nected with the Merrimack river by means of a canal 
one and a half mile long, and contains several manu- 
factories and about 3000 inhabitants. 

Lowell, 1 5 miles from Nashua, is an incorporated 
city, and the largest manufacturing town in the United 
States. It is located on the Merrimack river and the 
Middlesex canal leading to Boston. The falls of the 
river at this place are 30 feet, and afford the most am- 
ple means for extensive operations by water power. 
The first dwelling and factory were commenced in 
1813, and the place now assumes the character of a 
large bustling city, laid into streets with much taste 
and elegance, and the whole appearance of the place 
is rendered peculiarly interesting from the magnificent 
and numerous factories and public buildings with which 



LOWELL, 3yg 

it is adorned. Its population at the census in 1830 was 
6474, in 1835, 12,363, and at present (1837) isestimat- 
ed at 17,000. This place has been not inaptly termed 
the "Manchester of America." The whole amount of 
capital invested is about ,$8,000,000, and the number of 
large mills in operation, 24. These mills are each 
about 157 feet long and 45 broad— of brick, five stories 
high, each story averaging from 10 to 13 feet high, 
thus giving opportunity for a free circulation of air! 
The aggregate number of spindles used is 90,000— 
looms 3500. The whole number of operatives employ- 
ed is about 5000, of which 1200 are males and 3800 fe- 
males. The quantity of raw cotton used in these 
mills per annum exceeds 80,000,000 pounds or 20,000 
bales. The number of yards of cotton goods of vari- 
ous qualities manufactured annually is about 27,000,- 
000. Were the different pieces united, they vvoul'd 
reach to the distance of 15,300 miles ! In this esti- 
mate is included about 2,000,000 yards of coarse mixed 
cotton and woollen negro clothing, in the manufacture 
of which about 80,000 pounds of wool are used per an- 
num. 

The quantity of w^ool, manufactured annually into 
cassimeres, is about 150,000 pounds, making about 
150,000 yards. 

The Lowell Carpet Manufactory is in itself a curios- 
ity. Sixty-eight looms are kept in operation by hand 
labor, viz. fifty for ingrained or Kidderminster carpet- 
ing, ten for Brussels, and eight for rugs of various kinds. 
One hundred and forty thousand pounds of wool in the 
course of a year are manufactured into rich and beau- 
tiful earpets, the colors of which will vie with any im- 

HH 



3S0 LOWELL. 

ported. The number of yards of carpeting made p?r 
annum is upwards of 120,000, besides rugs. The op- 
eratives at present employed in all these mills receive 
for their labor about $1,200,000 per annum. 

The edifice in which ail the machinery employed in 
the mills is manufactured, is termed the ' Machine 
Shop,' belonging to the Locks and Canal Company, 
and is probably the largest 'shop' in the country, be- 
ing built of brick, four stories high, two hundred and 
twenty feet in length and forty-five feet in width. 

The great water-power is produced by a canal a 
mile and a half long, sixty feet wide, and eight feet 
deep from its commencement above the head of Paw- 
tucket falls on the Merrimack, to its termination in 
Concord river. The entire fall is thirty-two feet. The 
water is taken from this canal by smaller canals, and 
conveyed to the factories, and thence into the Merri- 
mack. There are room and water power sufficient for 
fifty additional factories. 

The Boston and Lowell Rail Road commences 
at the basin of the canal in Lowell, and after passing 
through a heavy excavation of rock, proceeds over an 
undulating country to the Charles river at Boston, 
which is crossed by a wooden viaduct, on the west 
side of the Warren bridge. The length of the road is 
25 miles, and the inclination on no part of the route 
exceeds 10 feet in a mile. At first a single track 
only was constructed, but a second has since been 
completed. The materials employed are principally 
stone and iron, and the workmanship is highly cred- 
itable to the company and to the individuals engag- 
ed in the construction. The cost of the road, thug 



BOSTON. 381 

Far, has been S§ 1,500,000 ; and the receipts have exceed- 
ed the original estimates. At Wilmington, a branch 
7^ miles long, extends to Andover ; from whence it is 
proposed to continue it to Haverhill. The time em- 
ployed in passing between Lowell and Boston is about 
an hour — fare ^l. 

THE CITY OF BOSTON,* 

ts pleasantly situated at the bottom of Massachusetts 
Bay, on a peninsula of an uneven surface, two miles 
long, and in the widest part about one mile broad. The 
town owes its origin to a spirit of civil and religious 
liberty, which was excited to action by the persecutions 
that prevailed in England during the reigns of Glueen 
Elizabeth, and Kings James and Charles the First. 
Most of those who can properly be considered as fiist 
settlers arrived prior to the year 1643. The place was 
first called Trimountain, in consequence of three hills 
which were on the peninsula. It was afterwards call- 
ed Boston, in honor of the Rev. Mr. Cotton, a minster 
of the first church in the town, whose native place was 
Boston in England. 

The harbor is one of the best in the United States. 
It has a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels 
at all times of tide, and is accessible at all seasons of 
the year. It is safe from every wind, and so capacious 
that it wiU allow 500 vessels to ride at anchor, while 
the entrance is so narrow as scarcely to admit two 
ships abreast. It contains about 75 square miles, with- 

* Bowen's Picture of Boston will prove a valuable 
guide to strangers visiting that city and its environs. 



382 BOSTON. 

in which are upwards of 100 islands or rocks ; and re- 
ceives within its bosom the waters of the Mystic, 
Charles, Neponset and Manatticut rivers, besides sev- 
eral streams of less magnitude. 

Boston is very extensively engaged in commerce, and 
there are probably few cities in the world where there 
is so much wealth in proportion to the population. 
The trade, too, received from an extensive inland coun- 
try, is very great, the facilities for approaching the city 
being rendered easy by means of excellent roads. 

The appearance of Boston is much admired by stran- 
gers, particularly when approaching from the sea. Its 
streets do not exhibit so great a regularity as some oth- 
er cities ; but its beautiful location and elegant public 
and private buildings, together with its richly ornamen- 
tal grounds for promenading, render it altogether a pe- 
culiarly delightful and attractive place. 

The city is divided into five local districts, called 
North Boston, East Boston, West Boston, South End 
and South Boston ; and its population is now over 
80,000. From Copp's Hill, in North Boston, which is 
partly occupied for a church yard, the British cannon- 
aded the town of Charlestown in 1775, during the bat- 
tle of Bunker Hill, when the village was mostly de- 
stroyed by conflagration. 

In the south-western part of the city, and in front of 
the state house, is the celebrated Common, presenting 
an area of about 50 acres, enclosed by an elegant iron 
fence, built in 1836, at an expense of vS35,000, and con- 
taining the Mall, a very beautiful public walk, adorned 
with rows of trees. This is a delightful promenade 
during the summer months, and is a place of general 



BOSTON. 383 

resort. In the centre of the Common is an eminence 
still exhibiting marks of the fortification erected by the 
British here during the revolution ; north of which is 
the Crescent Pond, a beautiful sheet of water, surround- 
ed with trees. Is^ear the Mall, in Mason street, is the 
Medical college, an edifice belonging to the Harvard 
University, surmounted by a dome with a sky-light and 
balustrade. 

The Boston Atheneum is located near the head of 
Pearl street, and is a very spacious building, containing 
appropriate rooms. The number of volumes attached 
to the institution is about 35,000. It also contains near- 
ly 14,000 medals and coins, some of which are very rare 
and interesting. The rooms are open from S A. M. to 
9 P. M. and can be visited by strangers introduced by 
subscribers. 

The Gallery of Fine Arts is a handsome structure in 
the rear of the Atheneum, and is appropriated for sci- 
entific lectures, the Academy of Arts and Sciences, the 
Massachusetts Medical Library, a philosophical appa- 
ratus of the Mechanic Institution, and for paintings ; 
the latter of which are exhibited ia the upper story, and 
are generally very elegant. 

Among the other literary institutions in the city arc 
the JMassuchusetts Historical Society, who have an ex- 
tensive library in a spacious apartment over the arch in 
Franklin street; the Boston Library Society, w'ho have 
a collection of 8000 volumes ; and the Columbian Li- 
brary, which contains about 4500 volumes. There are 
also numerous other libraries of less note. Among the 
benevolent institutions are the House of Industry at 
South Boston, of rough dimension stone, 220 feet long, 
hh2 



384 BOSTON. 

and 43 wide ; the Massachusetts General Hospital, 
founded in 1818, which has been richly endowed by the 
state and individuals ; the Eye and Ear Infirmary ; a 
Hospital for the Insane, the buildings of which are at 
Charlestown ; the New England Institute for the Edu- 
cation of the Blind, situated in Pearl street, and richly 
endowed by Col. Perkins and the munificence of the 
state ; and the Farm School for boys, on Thompson's 
Island. 

The first houses built in the city were plain, and the 
streets narrow and crooked ; but a few years have 
wrought a striking and almost incredible change ; new 
streets have been laid out, old ones straightened and 
improved, and neat brick and granite dwellings have 
been substituted for the ill-shapen and decaying houses 
of wood. The private buildings, and many of the 
stores recently erected, are more splendid than in any 
other city of the United States. In 1817, there M'as 
erected on each side of Cornhill, a block of brick 
stores more than 400 feet in length, and 4 stories high ; 
and on Central Wharf another immense pile of build- 
ings was completed the same year, 1240 feet long, con- 
taining 54 stores 4 stories high, having a spacious hall 
in the centre, over which is erected an elegant obser- 
vatory. Other costly works have been constructed 
which do honor to the town ; but the project which ex- 
ceeded them all in boldness of design, in promise of 
public benefit, and in energy of execution, is that which 
within a few years has been accomplished in the vi- 
cinity of Fanueil Hall Market. The extensive rows 
of granite stores, four stories high, constructed after 
the best model, bound this newly perfected enterprise. 



BOSTON. 385 

Between these two ranges of stores stands the new 
Market House, at the distance of 102 feet from those 
on the south side, and 65 feet from the north. The 
centre part of the building is 74 by 55 feet, having a 
hall in the second story. The wings are each 231 feet 
long by 50 wide, and 2 stories high. They have each 
a portico of four columns, 23 feet high ; the shafts of 
granite in a single piece. The construction of the whole 
is of hammered granite of a uniform color. 

Among the public buildings are the State House, 
which is built on elevated ground, commanding a fine 
view of the surrounding country, and containing an 
elegant statue of Washington, which cost $15,000; the 
County Court House, built of stone at an expense of 
$92,000 ; the municipal Court House ; a stone Jail ; 
Fanueil Hall, where all public meetings of the citizens 
are held ; three Theatres, one of which (the Tremont) 
was erected in 1827, at a cost of about $120,000, being 
135 feet in length and about 80 in breadth, the front 
of Hallowell and Cluincy granite, in imitation of the 
Ionic order, with four pilasters supporting an entabla- 
ture and pediment, and elevated on a basement of 17 
feet ; the Custom House, City Hall, Masonic Temple, 
Boylston Market and Boylston Hall ; Congress, Amory» 
Artist's Gallery, Concert, Corinthian, Pantheon, Wash- 
ington and Chauncey Halls. 

Bridges. — There are seven bridges connecting Boston 
with the adjacent towns. Charles River Bridge, which 
connects it with Charlestown on the North, 1 503 feet 
long ; Warren free bridge, nearly parallel with the for- 
mer, and also running to Charlestown, 1420 feet long, 
on piers and Macadamized ; West Boston Bridge, con- 



386 BOSTON. 

necting it with Cambridge Port on the west, 7810 feet 
long ; Cragie's Canal brid<ire, between the last two, 
connecting it with Lechmere Point, 279G feet long 5 and 
two free bridges uniting it to South Boston. The other 
avenue is a mill dam, near!}' two miles long and fifty 
feet wide, across the bay on the southwest side of the 
city ; which not only furnishes a bridge, but puts in op- 
eration extensive tide-mills and other water works. 
This dam was built in 1823-4, and cost upwards of 
$600,000. There is a branch from Craige's bridge also, 
which runs to Charlestown Point, near the Massachu- 
setts state prison. 

Churches. — There are rising of 50 churches in Boston, 
many of which have been built at great expense, and 
are very elegant. On one of the quoins at the south- 
west corner of the Brattle street church, of which Gov. 
Hancock was a benefactor, his name had been inscrib- 
ed ; but it was effaced by the British soldiery during 
the revolution, and the stone has been permitted to re- 
main as they left it. A shot from the Americans on 
the night previous to the evacuation of Boston by the 
British, still remains in the tower where it originally 
struck. la St. Paul's church, in Tremont street, there 
is an elegant monument to the memory of Gen. War- 
ren, who was slain on Bunker Hill, and whose remains 
are entombed in the cemetry beneath this church. 

Burial Grounds. — In the Chapel burial ground, north 
of the stone chapel, there are several ancient monu- 
ments ; and among others that of Gov. Winthrop, who 
died in 1649. In the Copp''s Hill ground similar me- 
mentoes of antiquity are found. In the Gr«?i«ri/ ground, 
the cenotaph erected to the memory of Docl. Franklin 



BOSTON. 387 

stands over the tomb, in which repose the remains of 
both his parents. The tombs of Governors Bellingiiam, 
Sumner and Sullivan are also in this ground. 

The JsPeiv- England M':seum, in Court street, is prob- 
ably the best in the United States, containing 60,000 
curiosities, and should be visited by every stranger be- 
fore leaving the city. 

Hotels. — Tremont House is the most superb hotel in 
Boston, and not inferior to any in the Union. It is 
three stories high in front and four on the wings, ex- 
clusive of the basement. The front and two circular 
ends facing Beacon street, and the open ground south 
of the building, are of duincy granite, and surmounted 
by an entablature, supported by antes at each extrem- 
ity. The portico, which is of the same material, is 37 
feet long by 7 feet in width, and 25 feet high. Four 
fluted columns support the roof of the portico, the pro- 
portions of which are copied from those of the Doric 
portico at Athens, with the exception that the portico 
of the Tremont House di-triglyph, the inter columnia- 
tions being nearly equal. The whole number of rooms 
is one hundred and eighty ; and the principal entrance 
is nearly opposite the Tremont theatre. From the top 
of this structure, an extensive and beautiful landscape, 
comprising a view of the harbor and the amphitheatre 
of hills to the west, and of the towns of Charlestown 
and Chelsea to the north, presents itself. 

The next hotel in extent is the American House, in 
Hanover street, erected in 1S35, and beautifully fitted 
up in the most modern style. It is kept by A. M, 
Brigham ; is lighted throughout with gas, and in point 
of reputation will compare with any house in the coun- 



3S8 BOSTON. 

try. The Nev/-England Coffee House, by Colman, is 
a popular establishment ; the Pearl street House, built 
in 1836, is a spacious hotel ; then there are the Ex- 
change Coffee House, Bromfield House, Lafayette Ho- 
tel, Marlboro' Hotel, Franklin House, Hanover House, 
Commercial Coffee House, City Tavern, Blackstone 
House, National House, the Maverick House at East 
Boston and the Mount Washington House at South 
Boston. The Shawmut House, in Hanover street, 
opened in 1837, by Gould and R.ice, is conducted on 
the European plan, and is the most elegant estabhsh- 
ment of the kind in the country ; the Albion and How- 
ard street House are conducted in the same way. 

The HuAcock House, the former residence of Gov. 
Hancock, is still in good preservation in Beacon street, 
near the state house. There are also several ancient 
buildings in the vicinity of Ann street and Market 
square ; in one of which, opposite the Golden Key, a 
relative of Doct. Franklin formerly resided, to w'hom he 
■was in the habit of paying frequent visits. 

Notwithstanding the immense travel on the three 
rail roads, the number of stage coaches which regular- 
ly leave Boston is much larger than that of any other 
place in the Union. There are between eighty and 
ninety distinct lines of stages ; which, according to 
their established arrangements, not including extras, 
make about 125 departures and as many arrivals daily, 
or more than 1500 departures and arrivals each week. 
For the benefit of public houses and travellers, a Stage 
Register is published, once in two months, by Messrs* 
Badger and Porter, at the office of the American Trav- 
e!!er. No. 47, Court street, containing an account of 



EAST BOSTON. 339 

the principal lines of stages, steam boats, rail roads and 
canal packets in New- England and New- York. 

The country around Boston is the admiration of eve- 
ry traveller of taste. The view from the dome of the 
state house surpasses any thing of the kind in this coun- 
try, and is not excelled by that from the castle hill of 
Edinburgh, or that of the Bay of Naples from the cas- 
tle of St. Elmo. Here may be seen at one view, the 
shipping, the harbor, variegated with islands and alive 
with business ; Charles river and its beautiful country, 
ornamented with elegant private mansions ; and more 
than twenty flourishing towns. The hills are finely 
cultivated, and rounded by the hand of nature with 
singular felicity. 

East Boston is a new part of the city, recently built 
on what was formerly called Noddle's Island, a tract 
nearly as large as the peninsula of Boston. The isl- 
and, hke " Winnisimmct," in Chelsea, has grown up 
under the management of an incorporated company. 
In 1830 there was but one house on the island ; since 
which it has been laid out into lots and streets ; many 
handsome dwelhngs have been erected, and the place 
now contains several hundred inhabitants. There are 
three steam boats on the ferry connecting it with the 
city, which ply constantly from morning till midnight. 
The Maverick House, located here, kept by Maj. Bar- 
ton, is a large and well conducted hotel. The Eastern 
^•ail road, now in progress, terminates here. The most 
extensive sugar refinery in the country, of brick, seven 
gtories high, is erected near the ferry landing. Here is 



390 MOUNT AUBURN — QNINCY. 

also a large malleable Cast Iron Foundry, and a busy 
ship yard. 

Mount Auburn. Every traveller of taste should 
visit the new cemetry at Mount Auburn, in Cambridge, 
5 miles from Boston. It is the pere la chaise of this 
country, and is situated in one of the most delightful 
spots ever selected for the repose of the dead. The 
grounds are very extensive, comprising every variety of 
hill and dale, covered with trees and shrubbery of al- 
most every kind. There are numerous " avenues" for 
carriages, and " paths" for pedestrians, designated by 
botanical names. The interments as yet have not been 
numerous ; though the lots are all laid out, and many of 
them finished. Miss Hannah Adams, the historian of 
the Jews, was the first tenant of Mount Auburn. She 
died in December, 1831. Nature made this retreat ro- 
mantic — art has rendered it beautiful, — the Creator 
formed it lovely — man has made it sacred 1 

CluiNCT, which is distinguished for having furnished 
two Presidents of the United States, is 10 miles from 
Boston, in a southerly direction. About half a mile 
northwest of the village is the mansion of the late John 
Adams, the second president. His remains and those 
of his wife reposee beneath the new church at Cluincy, 
within which a handsome monument to their memory 
has been erected by his son, John Cluincy Adams, 
with a suitable inscription. 

The south west part of the town is mostly composed 
of inexhaustible beds of granite, for the transportation 
of which a rail road has been constructed from the 



DORCHESTER — BRIGHTON. 391 

beds to tide water, 3 miles long. This was the first 
rail road made in the country. For a great part of 
the distance it is on an inclination of one and a half 
inch to the rod, and the ordinary load drawn by a horse 
is between 8 and 9 tons. It will be found an object 
worthy the attention of strangers. 

DoRCHF,STE?v, is an ancient town, about 4^ miles 
south of Boston, having been settled in 1630, soon after 
Plymouth and Salem. The roads are numerous and 
crooked, but mostly level and kept in good repair. Ma- 
ny fine country seats and substantial farm houses are 
thickly arranged on their sides. They have a town house, 
three congregational churches, and one for methodists. 
The population is about 4000. The peninsula, called 
Dorchester Neck, borders on Boston harbor, and a part 
of it is incorporated with the town of Boston. Savin 
Hill, in this town, is a place of considerable resort, and 
the peninsula of Squantum is famous for its yearly feast 
of shells. On the 4th of March, 1776, 1200 men, sent 
by Gen. Washington, threw up works on Dorchester 
heights in the night, which commanded Boston harbor 
and drove the British army away. Traces of these 
works still remain. 

Brighton, 5 miles west of Boston, was formerly a 
part of Cambridge, and lies between that place and 
Brookline. Here is held the famous Cattle Fair and 
mart, which was commenced during the revolutionary 
war, and has been increasing- in importance ever since. 
Most of the cattle for the supply of the Boston market 
are brought ia droves to this place ; often from 2 to 



392 WATERTOWX — CHARLESTOWN. 

3000 a week ; every Monday is the fair day, when th« 
dealers resort thither to make their purchases. 

Watertown is on Charles river, 7 miles northwest 
from Boston, and is the seat of several extensive manu- 
facturing establishments. The provincial congress sat 
here in 1775, and were in session during the battle of 
Bunker Hill. The United States have an Arsenal es- 
tabUshed in this town. Fresh Pond, one of the most 
enchanting retreats in the vicinity of the metropolis, 
lies partly in this town and partly in Cambridge. 

Cambridge, 2 miles west of Boston. {See p. 361.) 

Charlestown, is a place of singular shape, extend- 
ing in a northwesterly direction from Boston harbor, 
about 9 miles in length, and not averaging a breadth of 
one mile, and in some parts it is not a quarter of a mile 
wide. The compact part of the town is situated on a 
peninsula next to Boston, and is laid out in regular 
streets. Charlestown contains a population of near 
9000. It has five houses for public worship, three 
banks, a spacious alms house, and a handsome town 
hall and market house. Besides Charles River, War- 
ren and Prison Point bridges, which connect this town 
with Boston, there is Chelsea bridge on the Salcra 
turnpike, and Maiden bridge, both over the Mystic riv- 
er. Breed's Hill and Bunker's Hill both lie within 
this peninsula ; the former is 62 feet in height, the lat- 
ter 1 10 feet. The U. S. Navy Yard, in this town, con- 
sists of about 60 acrea of land, on which are built a 
large brick ware house, several arsenals, magazines 
for various kinds of stores, ropewalk, and a large biick 



breed's hill. 393 

mansion house for the superintending officer. The 
Dry Dock in this yard, is the finest in the United States. 
Its cost has been about half a milHon of dollars. The 
State Prison is at the west end of the town and is built 
of granite, 200 feet by 44, of 5 stories. Extensive addi- 
tions to the buildings were made in 1827, on the Auburn 
plan, at an expense of $86,000. The Massachusetts 
Insane Hospital is delightfully situated upon Pleasant 
Hill, on the west side of the town. On Mount Bene- 
dict, about 2^ miles from Boston, commanding one of 
the most rich and variegated prospects in the United 
States, are to be seen the ruins of the Ursuline Con- 
vent, burnt in the night by a mob in 1835. 

Breed's Hill is situated one fourth of a mile north- 
east of the village of Charlestown, and affords a pleas- 
ant prospect of Boston, (2 miles distant,) the harbor, 
Cambridge and its colleges, and of an extensive tract 
of highly cultivated country. 

In the month of May, after the battle of Lexington, 
it was conjectured from the movements of the British 
army that Gen. Gage intended to penetrate into the 
country. It was accordingly decided by the provincial 
congress to attempt a defence of Dorchester Neck, and 
to occupy Bunker's Hill, just within the Peninsula on 
which Charlestown stands. A detachment of 1000 
men, under Col. Prescott, proceeded to execute these 
orders ; but by some mistake. Breed's Hill, situated on 
the farther part of the peninsula, was selected for the 
proposed entrenchments. 

The party under Col. Prescott proceeded in their 
work with so much diligence and secrecy, that by the 
dawn of day, they had thrown up a square redoubt of 



394 breed's niLL. 

about forty yards on each side. Day light discovered 
this new work to the British, and a heavy cannonade 
was commenced upon it from the shipping in the river. 
The fire was borne with firmness by the Americans, 
and did not prevent them from soon constructing a 
breast work, which extended from the redoubt to the 
bottom of the hill. 

" As this eminence overlooked Boston, Gen. Gage 
thought it necessary to drive the provincials from it. 
To effect this object, he detached iNIajor Gen. Howe 
and Brigadier General Pigot, at the head of ten com- 
panies of grenadiers and the same number of light in- 
fantry, with a proper proportion of field artillery. 
These troops landed at Moreton's Point, where they 
immediately formed ; but perceiving the Americans to 
wait for them with firmness, they remained on their 
ground until the success of the enterprise should be 
rendered secure by the arrival of a reinforcement from 
Boston, for which Gen. Howe had apphed. During 
this interval the Americans also were reinforced by a 
body of their countrymen, led by Generals Warren 
and Pomeroy ; and they availed themselves of this de- 
lay to increase their security, by pulling up some ad- 
joining post and rail fences, and arranging them in two 
parallel lines at a small distance from each other ; the 
space between which they filled up with hay, so as to 
form a complete cover from the musketry of the en- 
■emy. 

" On being joined by their second detachment, the 
British troops, who were formed in two lines, advanced 
slowly undercover of a very heavy discharge of cannon 
and howitzers, frequently halting in order to allow their 



breed's hill. 395 

artillery tims to demolish the works. While they were 
advancing, orders were given to set fire to Charlestown, 
a handsome village containing about 500 houses, which 
flanked their line of march. The buildings were chief- 
ly of wood, and the flames were quickly communicated 
so extensively, that almost the whole town was in one 
great blaze. 

"It is not easy to conceive a more grand and a more 
awful spectacle than was now exhibited; nor a mo- 
ment of more anxious expectation than that which was 
now presented. The scene of action was in full view 
of the heights of Boston and of its neighborhood, which 
were covered with spectators taking deep and opposite 
interests in the events passing before them. The sol- 
diers of the two hostile armies not on duty, the citizens 
of Boston and the inhabitants of the adjacent country, 
all feeling emotions which set description at defiance, 
were witnesses of the majestic and tremendous scene. 

" The provincials permitted the enemy to approach 
unmolested within less than one hundred yards of their 
works, when they poured in upon them so deadly afire 
of small arms, that the British line was totally broken, 
and fell back with precipitation towards the landing 
place. By the very great exertions of their officers, 
they were rallied and brought up to the charge, but 
were again driven back in confusion by the heavy and 
incessant fire from the works. General Howe is said 
to have been left at one time almost alone, and it is 
certain that very few officers about his person escaped 
tmhurt. 

" The impression to be made by victory or defeat, in 
this early stage of the war, was deemed of the utmost 
Ii2 



396 breed'3 hill. 

consequence; and therefore very extraordinary exer- 
tions were made once more to rally the English. With 
great difficulty, they were a third time led up to the 
works. The redoubt was now attacked on three sides 
at once, while some pieces of artillery, which had been 
brought to bear on the breast work, raked it from end 
to end. The cross fire too, from the ships and floating 
batteries, not only annoyed the works on Breed's Hill, 
but deterred any considerable reinforcements from pass- 
ing into the peninsula and coming to their assistance. 
The ammunition of the Americans was now so nearly 
exhauated, that they were no longer able to keep up the 
same incessant stream of fire, which had twice repuls- 
ed the enemy ; and on this third attempt, the redoubt, 
the walls of which the English mounted with ease, was 
carried at the point of the bayonet. Yet the Ameri- 
cans, many of whom v/ere without bayonets, are said 
to have maintained the contest with clubbed muskets, 
until the redoubt was half filled with the king's troops. 

"The redoubt being lost, the breastwork which had 
been defended with equal courage and obstinacy, was 
necessarily abandoned ; and the very hazardous ope- 
ration undertaken, of retreating in the face of a victori- 
ous enemy, over Charlestown neck ; where they were 
exposed to the same cross fire from the Glasgow man 
of war and two floating batteries, which had deterred 
the reinforcements ordered to their aid from coming to 
their assistance, and had probably prevented their re- 
ceiving proper supplies of ammunition." 

The number of British troops engaged in this action 
was about 3000, and their loss in killed and wounded 
was 1050, The American force has been variously 



CHELSEA. 397 

Stated from 1500 to 4000; and their loss, in killed, 
%vounded and missing, amounted to 450. General 
Warren was among the number of the slain, and a 
handsome monument now marks the spot where he 
fell. The spot of ground on which this monument 
stands, was recently purchased by Dr. J. C. Warren, of 
Boston, a nephew of the lamented General, for the pur- 
pose, it is said, of preserving uninjured the few remain- 
ing traces of the memorable battle of '75. 

The corner stone of the Bunker Hill Monument, 
on Breed's Hill, was laid on the 15th of June, 1825 : 
on which occasion the Marquis La Fayette was pres- 
ent. The depth, however, proving insufficient, the 
foundation was subsquently re-laid ; and the work has 
since progressed about 80 feet from the foundation. 
The GLuincy granite is used for its structure. Its base 
is 50 feet in diameter, and its height is to be 220 feet. 

Chelsea, is situated about three miles north-cast of 
Boston, at the mouth of the Mystic river. The surface 
of the town is bi-oken into several beautiful eminences, 
the highest of which is Richmond Hill, known in the 
period of the revolution as Powder House Hill ; its 
height is 220 feet above the sea. Mount Bellingham is 
another eminence of gradual slope ; it is laid out into 
streets, and affords delightful building lots over its whole 
surface. Chelsea is one of the most ancient towns in 
the vicinity of Boston ; and is now the only one which 
remains connected with the city to form the county of 
Suffolk. The principal communication with the city is 
by the Chelsea bridge, through Charlestown, and by 
the Winnissimmet ferry, which usually has three steam 



398 NAHANT. 

boats constantly plying. At the ferry landing, Winnis- 
simmet village has grown up within a few years, and 
is now the most thickly settled part of the town. Here 
are situated the U. S. Marine Hospital and the U. S. 
Navy Hospital. The Chelsea Bank was established 
here in 1836 ; but owing to the mismanagement of its 
directors, its doors were closed and its charter repealed 
in 1837. Chelsea Beach is a great attraction to stran- 
gers during the summer season. 

Fort Independence is situated on an island at the 
outlet of Boston harbor, 3 miles distant ; opposite to 
which is Governor's Island, containing a fort erected 
during the late war. These two forts command the 
entrance into the harbor of Boston. Seven or eight 
miles below is the light house, at the north-east extrem- 
ity of the channel, where vessels enter the Atlantic, 

NAHANT, 

Is a peninsula running three or four miles into the 
sea, and is situated fifteen miles north-easterly from 
Boston. It is approached from the town of Lynn over 
a beautiful beach of a mile and a half in length. At 
the extremity of this beach commences the peninsula, 
which is about two miles in length, and in some parts 
half a mile broad, although its shores are extremely 
irregular, and indented with small bays worn into the 
rocks by the unceasing action of the waves. 

The surface is uneven, rising in some places to the 
elevation of sixty or seventy feet above the level of 
the sea. The shore is very bold, and presents, on all 
sides, a grand enbankment of broken massy rocks. 
At several points these rocks are worn into fantastic 



NAHANT. 399 

shapes, and at the time of high tide, or a swell of the 
sea, the roar and foam of the waters among them pre- 
sents a most interesting spectacle, which is contempla- 
ted by the quiet observer, seated on the summit above, 
with awe and admiration. The whole expanse of the 
ocean spreads out towards the east, and after a storm, 
the rolling waves come pouring in their immense bur- 
den upon these rocks, with such a power, sublimity 
and uproar of contending elements, as can hardly be 
conceived by any one who has not witnessed the 
scene. And again when the sea is tranquil, it may 
be seen covered with shipping of all sizes, as far as the 
eye can extend, moving- in difierent directions up and 
down the coast, and exhibiting an animating picture of 
the industry and activity of commerce. In short, for 
picturesque beauty and sublimity of scenery, as well as 
for the many advantages arising from its peculiar local 
situation, this place is not surpassed by any on the 
coast. 

Besides a view of the ocean, Nahant presents a great 
variety of other interesting prospects. On one side is 
seen the village of Lynn, Swanscut, Phillips' Beach, 
Marblehead, Egg Rock, Baker's Island, and the north 
shore as far as the highland of Cape Ann ; on the oth- 
er, Charlestown, Boston, the islands in Boston harbor, 
part of Dorchester, Braintree, Nantucket and Scituate, 
with the light-houses of Boston, Scituate and Baker's 
Island, forming together a panorama hardly to be 
equalled in beauty or variety. 

The peninsula extends farther into the sea than any 
other head land in the bay. It is distant from the 
nearest island in Boston harbor, to the south, seven 



400 NAHANT. 

miles — from the nearest point of the south shore, about 
twelve miles— from the north shore between two and 
three miles. It is on this side connected with the main 
land by a beach a few rods wide. Thus insulated and 
surrounded by water, Nahant enjoys a climate and 
temperature very cool, and, comparatively, very equa- 
ble — a circumstance of much importance to the invalid, 
and which will determine the choice of a great portion 
of those who annually leave the city for the purpose of 
health or amusement. 

Accommodations for visitors have lately been multi- 
plied and greatly improved. A spacious and elegant 
Btone edifice has been erected as a Hotel, near the ex- 
tremity of the peninsula, in a very commanding and 
pleasant situation. This building contains 70 cham- 
bers, constructed on a plan of peculiar convenience, 
both for families and single persons. In 1836, an ex- 
tensive wing Avas added, containing 40 rooms more. 
The dining hall is sufficiently spacious to accommodate 
150 persons at table, besides which there are drawing 
rooms and private parlors. Large and commodious 
stables are appended to the Hotel, and a bathing house 
for warm and cold baths, and floating baths for those 
who may prefer the bracing action of sea-water, make 
a part of the establishment. The Hotel is surrounded 
by piazzas, which aflbrd a most delightful prospect in 
every direction, and receive the cool and refreshing 
breezes every part of the day. In a small village, a 
quarter of a mile from the Hotel, are several private 
boarding houses, where every accommodation can be 
had for invaUds and for those who seek retirement. 



N AH ANT. 401 

Numerous cottages, too, have been erected by several 
individuals for the purpose of affording more extensive 
and elegant accommodations to those who may pass 
the summer in this delightful place of residence. 

Nahant has many amusements. Angling with the 
rod may be enjoyed as a pleasant recreation, standing 
on the rocks ; and those who would try their skill in 
decoying larger prey, may go out in boats, which are 
always in readiness, and furnished with suitable appa- 
ratus. Game, too, is abundant in the vicinity. But 
there are few amusements or pleasures superior to 
that of riding, at suitable hours of the day, on the 
beach. 

A beautiful building, in imitation of a Grecian tem- 
ple, has been erected on an eminence, near the Hotel, 
in which are two elegant billiard rooms. There are 
also convenient covered bowhng alleys, and such other 
means of amusement as are usually connected with 
the most extensive and elegant estabUshments at wa- 
tering places. 

On the whole, the proximity of Nahant to Boston — 
its facility of access — the beauty and grandeur of its 
scenery — and above all, the singular local advantages 
it affords for invigorating the constitution, the salubrity 
and bracing tone of its atmosphere, and the excellent 
accommodations it offers to visitors — will undoubtedly 
make it a place of general resort during the gumraer 
months, from all parts of the United States. 



402 F0RT3 AROUND BOSTON. 

FORTS AROUND BOSTON, 
Erected during the Revolution, 

The fortifications which were thrown up around Bos- 
ton, which held a British army besieged during eleven 
months of the revolution, and which finally compelled 
them to carry their arms and warfare into other lands, 
will always be regarded as objects of interest by every 
stranger visiting that section of country. Many of 
these works are still in fine preservation, while others 
have become defaced by the hand of time, or have been 
removed to give place to modern improvements. The 
following description of those remaining is extracted 
from Silliman's Journal, and will prove a guide to 
strangers in determining their localities. 

At Breed's Hill, that blood-stained field, the redoubt 
thrown up by the Americans is nearly effaced ; scarce- 
ly the slightest trace of its remains ; but the entrench- 
ment, which extended from the redoubt to the marsh, 
is still marked by a slight elevation of the ground. The 
redoubt thrown up by the British on the summit of the 
hill, may be easily distinguished. 

Bunker Hill. The remains of the British fort are vis- 
ible ; the works must have been very strong, and oc- 
cupied a large extent of ground — they are on the sum- 
mit and slope of the hill looking towards the peninsula. 

Plou^'hed Hill. The works upon this hill were com- 
menced by the Americans on the night of August 26th, 
1775, and received more fire from the British than any 
of the other forts ; in a few days, more than three hun- 
dred shells were fired at these fortifications. A small 
part of the rampart remains, but the whole hill is sur- 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 403 

rounded by the mounds and fosse of the ancient fort 
which has been nearly obUterated. 

Cobble or BarreWs Hill was fortified, and occupied as 
a strong post, in the war of the revolution, by General 
Putnam, and, in consequence of its strength was call- 
ed Putnam's impregnable fortress. It was commenced 
on the night of November 22d ; and the activity of its 
fire is well known to those who have studied the de- 
tails of the siege of Boston. This fort has been de- 
stroyed ; but the position is easily identified. 

Lechmere Point Redoubt, one hundred yards from 
West Boston bridge, displays more science in its con- 
struction, and has a wider and deeper fosse than most 
of the other fortifications. It was commenced on Dec. 
1 1th, 1775, and it was several days before it was com- 
pleted, during which time it was much exposed to the 
fire of the English in Boston. Two or three soldiers of 
the revolutionary army were killed at this redoubt, and 
the Prunus virginiana, with its red berries, marks the 
spot where they were probably interred. Upon one 
angle of the fort, where the cannon were pointed with 
most destructive effect, a church is now erected. 

A causeway made across the marsh, the covered 
way which crosses the brow of the hill, and the lines 
which flanked Willis' creek, are still perfect, and may- 
be traced with great facility. 

Winter Hill Fort appears to have been the most ex- 
tensive, and the entrenchments more numerous, than 
any of the other positions of the American army. The 
fort on the hill is almost entirely destroyed ; only a 
small part of the rampart still remains perfect. 

KK 



404 FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 

A redoubt situated upon Ten Hill Farm, which com- 
manded the navigation of the Mystic river, is complete, 
as are also some slight entrenchments near. 

A redoubt, situated between Winter and Prospect 
hills, has been completely carried away, and a quarry 
has been opened on the spot. In the general orders, 
issued at Cambridge, guards were directed to be sta- 
tioned at White House Redoubt, and this it is believed 
was the post intended. General Lee is said to have 
had his head quarters in a farm house immediately in 
the rear of this redoubt. 

Prospect Hill has two eminences, both of which were 
strongly fortified, and connected by a rampart and 
fosse ; about two hundred yards are quite entire ; they 
are ornamented with the aster, solidago, rosa, &c. ; 
and those who feel any curiosity about these lines, will 
be much gratified by the view here afforded. The forts 
on these hills were destroyed only a few years ago, but 
their size can be distinctly seen. On the southern em- 
inence a part of the fort is still entire, and the south- 
west face of the hill is divided into several platforms. 
There are also evident marks of the dwellings of the 
soldiers. The extensive view from this hill, the walk 
on the ancient ramparts, and the sight of the various 
stations occupied for the American army, will render 
this spot, at a future period, a favorite resort. 

The Cambridge Lines, situated upon Butler's Hill, 
appear to have consisted of six regular forts, connected 
by a strong entrenchment. The most northerly of 
these forts is perfect. With the exception of one of its 
angles destroyed by the road, it appears as if just quit- 
ted by the army of America ; its bastions are entire, 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 405 

the outline is perfect, and it seems a chief d'osuvre of 
the military art. 

A square fort may be seen near the southern extrem- 
ity of these hnes, in fine preservation ; it is in a field 
within two hundred yards of the road to Cambridge. 
The eastern rampart is lower than the others, and the 
gateway with its bank of earth still remains. 

The second Line of Defence may be traced on the col- 
lege green at Cambridge, but its proximity to the pub- 
lic halls may have produced some inconvenience, and 
it has been carefully destroyed. 

A semicircular battery, with three embrasures, on the 
Korthern shore of Charles river, near its entrance into 
the bay, is in a perfect state of preservation. It is rath- 
er above the level of the marsh, and those who would: 
wish to see it, should pass on the road to Cambridge 
until they arrive at a cross road which leads to the 
bank of the river ; by following the course of the 
stream, they may arrive at this battery without cross- 
ing the marsh, which is its northern boundary, and dif- 
ficult to pass. 

Brookline Fort, or, as it is called in the annals of the 
revolution, the fort on Sewell's Point, was very exten- 
sive, and would still be perfect, were it not for the road 
which divides it into two nearly equal parts. With 
this exception, the rampart and an irregular bastion, 
which commanded the entrance of Charles river, are 
entire. The fort was nearly quadrangular, and the 
fortifications stronger than many of the other positions 
of the American array. 

Ji battery, on the southern shore of Muddy river^ 
with three embrasures, is only slightly injured. 



406 FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 

Forts at Roxhury. The lower fort at Roxbury ap- 
pears to have been the earUest erected, and by its ele- 
vation commanded the avenue to Boston over the pe- 
ninsula, and prevented the advance of the English 
troops in that direction. It is of the most irregular 
form, the interior occupies about two acres of ground, 
and as the hill is bare of soil, the places may still be 
seen vvlience the earth was taken to form the ramparts. 
This fortification has not been at all injured, and the 
embrasures may still be noticed where the cannon 
were placed which fired upon the advanced hnes of the 
enemy. 

On a higher eminence of the same hill is situated a 
quadrangular fort, built on the summit of a rock, and 
being perhaps their first attempt at regular fortification, 
it was considered by the militia of unparalleled strength, 
and excited great confidence in that wing of the army 
stationed at Roxbury. 

The Roxbury Lines, about three quarters of a mile in 
advance of the forts, and two hundred yards north of 
the town, are still to be seen on the eastern side of the 
peninsula, and may be distinguished by any person go- 
ing the nearest road to Dorchester, over Lamb's dam. 

At this period it may be proper to mention the Brit- 
ish fortifications. The fines situated upon the Neck 
may be seen to great advantage on the western side of 
the isthmus, about a quarter of a mile south of the green 
stores. There appear to have been two lines of en- 
trenchments carried quite across the peninsula, and 
the fosse, which was filled at high water, converted 
Boston into an island. The mounds, ramparts and 
wide ditches which remain, attest the strength of the 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 407 

original works. The small battery on the common, 
erected by the British, may perhaps remain for a long 
period of years, as a memorial of ancient times. 

The Dorchester Lines. Of these some very slight 
traces may be distinguished. 

Forts on Dorchester Heights. We now hasten to the 
last forts, the erection of which term'nated the contest 
in this portion of the eastern states of America. It is 
to be regretted that the entrenchments thrown up by 
the army of the revolution, on the heights of Dorches- 
ter, are almost entirely obliterated by the erection of 
two new forts in the late war. But some traces of the 
ancient works may be seen on both hills ; the old forts 
were constructed with more skill and display more sci- 
ence than the recent works, the ramparts of which are 
even now falling down ; and we would gladly see 
them destroyed, if from their ruins the ancient works 
could re-appear. 

A noble octagonal fort and two batteries, which may 
be seen in perfect preservation upon the promontory, 
were erected after the departure of the English from 
Boston. The fort is situated at the point ; one battery 
is in the rear of the House of Industry, whose inmates 
will probably soon destroy it, and the other upon a ris- 
ing ground immediately below the heights of Dor- 
chester. 

At JsTook Hill) near South Boston bridge, maybe seen 
the last breast-work which was thrown up by the for- 
ces of America during this arduous contest. Its appear- 
ance on the morning of March 17, 1776, induced the 
departure of the British troops from Boston in a few 
hours, and thus placed the seal to the independence of 
kk2 



408 FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 

the New-England states. But those who would wish 
to see this entrenchment must visit it soon. The ene- 
my have attacked it on three sides, and are proceeding 
by sap and by mine ; part of the fosse is already de- 
stroyed, and the rampart nods to its fall. 

FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND, (Maine.) 

A stage leaves Boston daily at 8 A. M. (Sundays 
excepted,) reaching Newburyport at 1 T.M. and Ports- 
mouth, N. H. at 5. Leaves Portsmouth the next morn- 
ing at 's, and reaches Portland at 5 P. M. Distance 
120 miles— fare $6. The intervening distances are as 
follow : 



Niles. 

Lynn,* 9 

Salem,* 5 

Newburyport, 24 

Portsmouth, 24 



Miles. 

York, 9 

Kennebunk, 24 

Saco, 10 

Portland, 15 



Ltnn is a large township, with a population of 
10,000. It contains 8 churches and many large man- 
ufacturing establishments for ladies' shoes, which are 
sent to the southern states and the West Indies. The 
Lynn beach connects the peninsula of Nahant with 
the main land, and is a favorite resort in summer. 

This is one of the oldest towns in New-England, 
and several records of its early history have been re- 
cently collected and published in Boston. The author, 
Alonzo Lewis, Esq. has given a mass of interesting 



* These places are not on the direct route from Bos- 
ton to Newburyport ; but it is, nevertheless, recom- 
mended to travellers to pass through them. 



SALEM — NEWBURYPOHT. 403 

facts and occurrences of "oldnn time," furnishing alto- 
gether a curious compendium, not only to antiquarians 
and the immediate descendants of the first settlers of 
that place, but to readers of every class and section of 
the country. All the quaintness and original simplici- 
ty of the original language has been preserved, and 
such remarks of the compiler introduced as are neces- 
sary to explain the meaning or increase the interest. 

Salem is considered the second town in New-Eng- 
land in commerce, wealth and population. It is locat- 
ed on a peninsula formed by two inlets of the sea, call- 
ed North and South rivers. On the opposite side of 
North river is the town of Beverly, to which a bridge 
leads, 1500 feet in length. Marblehead is on the op- 
posite side of South river, which forms the harbor, de- 
fended by two forts. Salem contains a court house, 3 
banks, an atheneum, a museum, an orphan asylum and 
13 churches. The Square, near the centre of the town, 
is a beautiful tract of ground, and is surrounded by nu- 
merous elegant private dwellings. 

Salem was settled as early as 1626. Its Indian name 
was Naumkeag. In 1092, and for some tim.e after- 
wards, several of its inhabitants became a prey to the 
greatest credulity and bigotry. Its prison was crowd- 
ed with persons accused of witchcraft, many of whom 
paid their life as a forfeit for their supposed crimes. 
The present population of the town is from 12 to 
15,000. 

Newbdrtport is handsomely situated on the south 
bank of the Merrimack river, three miles from its 



410 PORTSMOUTH. 

mouth, rising on a gradual acclivity from the water. 
The streets are wide, and intersect each other at right 
angles ; and many of the houses are elegant. The 
court house, standing at the head of one of the princi- 
pal streets leading from the river, adds much to the 
beauty of the place. The village contains 2 banks, 7 
churches and 7000 inhabitants, and is a place of con- 
siderable trade ; though it suffered much during the re- 
strictive system, previous to the late war. 

Portsmouth is the largest town and only seaport in 
New-Hampshire. It is located on the south side of the 
Piscataqua river, 2 miles from its mouth. The town 
contains 5 banks, an atheneum, an asylum for females, 
an alms house, custom house and 7 churches. A bridge 
2371 feet long crosses the river at this place to Kittery, 
Me., on the opposite side. On an island between the 
two places is a navy yard. The town is handsome in 
its appearance, is a place of considerable trade, and 
contains a population of about 8000. 

In 1695 this place was assaulted by a party of In- 
dians, and 14 of its inhabitants killed, one scalped, who 
recovered, and four taken prisoners. After burning 
several houses, the Indians retreated through what is 
called the great sivamp. They were, however, overtak- 
en the next morning by a company of militia, dispers- 
ed, and the prisoners retaken. 

After leaving Portsmouth, the villages of York, 
Welles, Kennebunk and Saco, are successively passed 
before reaching Portland ; affording very little to inter- 
est, if we except an old fort about three miles and a 
half north-east of Welles, and the falls at Saco, on the 



PORTLAND. 411 

river of that name, which rises in the White Moun- 
tains of New-Hampshire. These falls are about 30 
feet, and afford facilities for extensive manufacturing 
operations. 

Portland, the capital of Maine and a port of entry, 
is a beautiful town, located on a peninsula projecting 
into Casco bay. This peninsula has two prominences, 
on one of which stands several elegant dwelling hou- 
ses, and on the other an observatory. The harbor is 
safe, well defended, and has a light-house at its en- 
trance. Among the public buildings in the town are 
an elegant court house, a jail, custom house, 2 banks, 
an academy, atheneum and 10 churches. Population 
about 1 5,000. From the observatory an extensive pros- 
pect is had of the ocean and of the country at the north- 
west, terminated by the White Mountains. On Bang's 
and House Islands, at the entrance of the harbor, are 
Forts Preble and Scammel. At the east, 32 miles dis- 
tant, is seen the light-house at the mouth of the Ken- 
nebec river, with a great variety of islands intervening. 
West of the observatory is Fort Sumner, on a hill, with 
several intrenchments made during the revolutiona- 
ry war. 

Portland (then called Falmouth) was nearly laid in 
ruins in October, 1775. The inhabitants were required 
by Capt. Mowatt, of the British sloop of war Canceau, 
to surrender their arms ; and on a refusal, he com- 
menced a bombardment of the town, which lasted nine 
hours, resulting in a destruction of 130 houses, three 
fourths of the whole number. 

Stages leave Portland three times a week for the 
White Mountains in New-Hampshire, (see p. 375.) 



412 



FROM PORTLAND TO QUEBEC. 



passing through Westbrook, Gorham, Standish, Bald- 
win, Hiram, Brownsfield and Fryeburgh to Conway, 
which they reach at evening. Distance 62 n^iles — fare 
$3. From Conway a stage leaves on Monday and 
Thursday mornings, passing through Bartlett, Hart's 
Loca'ion, over the Avalanches at the Notch of the 
Wnite Mountains, through Nash and Swain's Loca- 
tion, Britton woods and Bethlehem to Littleton on the 
Connecticut river. Distance 48 miles — fare $3. [Lit- 
tleton is 17 miles below Lancaster, 100 miles north of 
Concord, N. H., and is located at the mouth and falls 
of the Amanoosuc river. See p. 368.] 



FROM PORTLAND TO Q,UEBEC 258 mileS. 

A road is now finished from Portland to Gluebec, 
principally over the route pursued by Gen. Arnold and 
his troops in 1775, previous to the assault of that place 
by Gen. Montgomery. The completion of this road 
will frequently induce strangers to take the state of 
Maine, as well as Montreal, in their route to or from 
duebec. 

The intermediate distances on this route are as 
follow : 



Miles. 
From Portland to 
North Yarmouth,., 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bowdointown, 13 

Hallowell, 15 

Augusta, 3 

Sidney, 12 

Waterville, 5 

Fairfield, 4 



Miles. 

Bloomfield, 7 

Norridgework, 5 

Anson, 11 

Dead River, 20 

Forks of Kennebeck 

River, 15 

Moose River, . 24 

Chaudicre River, 37 

Gluebec, 60 



NORTH YARMOUTH — HALLOWELL. 413 

North Yarmouth, 12 miles north of Portland, is 
located on Casco bay, about 35 miles from the ocean, 
and is a village of some magnitude, containing four 
churches, an academy, and about 4000 inhabitants. 
The bay affords fine anchorag-e for vessels, and the sur- 
rounding country is picturesque and interesting. 

Freeport, 6 miles farther, is at the head of Casco 
bay, and contains a population of about 2500 inhabi- 
tants. 

Brunswick, 9 miles. The village, which is pecul- 
ia'-ly pleasant, is situated on the south-west bank of the 
Androscoggin, river, at the falls, which furnish valua- 
ble seats for mills and manufactories. Botodoin college^ 
at this place, is located on an elevated and beautiful 
plain, enjoying- a rich and diversified view of the river 
and surrounding country. The college originally re- 
ceived a donation of $10,000 from the late James D. 
Bowdoin, Esq. and five townships of land from the 
state. It also receives $3000 annually from the latter. 
From 130 to 150 students are yearly educated at this 
institution. 

Bowdointown, 13 miles. 

Hallowell, 15 miles, is a very flourishing village, 
on the Kennebeck river, at the head of tide water. It 
contains an academy, a bank, three churches, between 
2 and 300 dwelling houses, some of which are very el- 
egant, and about 3000 inhabitants. Granite is here ob- 
tained, which is considered equal to any ever discover- 



414 AUGUSTA — WATERVILLE — NOKRIDGEWORK. 

ed in the Union. Vessels of 150 tons burtheu ascend 
tiie river as far as this place. 

Augusta, 3 miles, is the seat of government of the 
state, and is located on both sides of the Kennebeck 
river, over which is a substantial bridge. A part of the 
village is on a very elevated plain above the river, and 
a part of it on its banks. Many of the dwellings ex- 
hibit much taste and elegance in their structure, and 
the whole appearance of the place is peculiarly inviting 
and pleasant. 

The new State House, lately erected here, is an orna- 
ment to the town, and highly creditable to the munifi- 
cence of the state. 

Sidney, 12 miles farther, is a pleasant village on the 
Kennebeck river. 

Waterville, 5 milcs^ on the same river, is a place 
of considerable magnitude, containing a bank. At Te- 
conick Falls in this town, at the head of boat naviga- 
tion, there are several manufactories, and a flourishing 
village is springing up. Waterville College, under the 
direction of the Baptist denomination, is located in this 
town. It was commenced in 1818, and educates be- 
tween 50 and 60 students annually for the ministry. 

Bloomfield, 11 miles. A pleasant village, contain- 
ing a respectable academy. 

NoRRiDGEWORK, 5 milcs, is situated on both banks 
of the Kennebeck river. It is the capital of Somerset 



FROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT. 



415 



county, and contains a court house and jail. The vil- 
lage is centrally located for the trade of a fertile back 
country, and is a flourishing place, containing a popu- 
lation of about 2000 inhabitants. 

The route to Cluebec continues through a less popu- 
lous country for about 50 miles ; when, for the remain- 
ing distance, it passes through extensive forests, with 
an occasional settlement only. These forests, howev- 
er, are giving way to the arts of husbandry, and in a 
few years will doubtless be succeeded by a succession 
of settlements and cultivated farms. 



FROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT 287 mllcS. 



The following are the in 
JMiles. 
North Yarmouth,... 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bath, 7 

Wiscasset, 15 

Newcastle, It 

Waldoboro' 12 

Warren, 8 

Thomastown, 5 

Camden, 11 

Lincoln ville, ., 7 

Belfast, 11 

Buckstown, 18 

Penobscot, 13 



termediate distances : 

Miles. 

Castine,, .,,. 4 

Blue Hill, 10 

Surry, 8 

Trenton, 12 

Sullivan, 9 

Steuben,.,, 14 

Harrison, 8 

Columbia,..., 12 

Jonesboro', 9 

Machias,. . . . , 9 

E. Falls of Machias,.. 6 

I Dennysville, 23 

I Easport Ferry, 14 

I Eastport, 4 



The route is near the coast, and embraces an extent 
of highly interesting and romantic country. North 
Yarmouth, Freeport and Brunswick have already been 
noticed. 



LL 



416 BA.TU — THOMASTOWN. 

Bath, 34 miles north-east of Portland, is a port of 
entry, on the west side of the Kennebeck river, fifteen 
miles from its mouth. The river is here a mile wide, 
and the town is built on an acclivity for a mile and a 
half in extent, and assumes a very handsome appear- 
ance from the water. It is a place of extensive busi- 
ness, and contains two banks, an academy, five church- 
es, and a population of nearly 5000 inhabitants. 

WiscASSET, 15 miles, is a port of entry, located on 
the west side of Sheepscot river, with an excellent har- 
bor. The place contains a court house, jail, bank, in- 
surance office, and some other public buildings, and a 
population of about 2500. 

Newcastle, 11 miles, is located on the west side of 
Sheepscot river. 

Waldoboro', 12 miles, is a port of entry and a place 
of considerable trade, containing a population of about 
3000 inhabitants. 

Warren, 8 miles, is located on St. George's river, 
■which is navigable to this place for sloops. 

Thomastown, 5 miles, is a place of extensive busi- 
ness, situated on the west side of Penobscot bay and 
on St. George's river, 12 miles from its mouth. The 
state prison of Maine is at this place, and is in a lot of 
10 acres, enclosed by a solid wall, within which is an 
extensive quarry of limestone. There are also in the 
vicinity of the town inexhaustible quarries of lime and 



CAMDEN — CASTINE. 417 

marble, of which large quantities are annually export- 
ed. The village contains a bank and a population of 
about 3000 inhabitants. About a mile from the vil- 
lage is the ancient residence of the late Gen. Knox, 
now in a state of decay. 

Camden, U miles, and Lincolnville, 7 miles far- 
ther, are both situated on the west side of the Penob- 
scot bay. 

Belfast, 11 miles from Lincolnville, is on the same 
side of the bay, and is a flourishing village. 

Buckstown, 18 miles, is on the east side of the Pe- 
nobscot, the largest river in the state. It is navigable 
for large vessels to Bangor, 50 miles from its entrance 
into the bay. 

Penobscot, 13 miles, on the east side of a bay of 
that name. 

Castine, 4 miles, is situated on a promontory, near 
the head of the east side of Penobscot bay, with a beau- 
tiful harbor stretching out before the town. Castine 
can be easily defended from assault ; as the narrow- 
ness of the isthmus which connects it with the main 
land could be insulated with comparatively a small ex- 
pense ; added to which, strong batteries would enable 
it to resist any force which would probably be brought 
against it. This would be the more important in time 
of war, as an enemy in possession of the place would 
have command of the intermediate country from Pe- 



418 MACHIAS — EASTPORT. 

nobscot to St. Croix. The place was taken during the 
last war, and the British entrenchments on a hill above 
the town are still visible. 

Blue Hill, Surry, Trenton, Sullivan, (in which there 
is a bridge across Hog bay 1400 feet long,) Steuben, 
Harrison, Columbia and Jonesborough are successive- 
ly passed in travelling from Castine to 

Machias, a port of entry and capital of "Washington 
county, Me. The town contains two villages — one sit- 
uated at the falls of the east branch of the Machias 
river, and the other at the falls of the west branch of 
the same stream. Between the two villages a bridge 
is erected across middle river, which, with the cause- 
way, is 1900 feet long. Machias contains a court 
house, jail, 4 churches, a very flourishing academy, and 
is a thriving place. 

Eastport is a port of entry on Moose island in Pas- 
samaquoddy bay. The island is 4 miles long, with a 
bold shore, the tide ordinarily rising here 25 feet. The 
town is principally built on the southern part of the isl- 
and, and contains a bank, 4 churches, and about 3000 
inhabitants. There are also fortifications in the vicini- 
ty, which were constructed during the last war. The 
view from the heights on the island is very extensive 
and romantic, taking in the bay with its numerous isl- 
ands and the adjacent coast. Between Eastport and 
the town of Perry on the main land, a bridge has been 
constructed, rising of 1200 feet long. A line of steam 
boats is established between this place and Boston, 



FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE. 419 

touching at Portland, so that travellers can take either 
a water or land route to that city. 

Pv-OBiNSTOWN, 13 niilps north-west of Eastport, loc.Tt- 
ed at the mouth of the St. Croix river at its entrance 
into the PassamaquodeiV bay, is on the boundary line 
between the United States and the British Province of 
New-Brunswick, and is oppo5ite St. Andrews. 

FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. I. — 40 mileS. 

The route is over the Bostox and Providence Rail 
Road, which was begun in 1831, and completed 
in 1S35. The road commences in Boston, near the 
south-west corner of the common, and crossing the 
Boston and Worcester rail road, it proceeds in a south- 
westerly direction through Roxbury, Canton, Sharon, 
Mansfield and Attleborough. The greatest elevation is 
at Sharon, 23 miles from Boston, the ascent in reach- 
ing which, for a distance of five miles, is at the rate of 
37 feet per mile. The descent from this ridge towards 
Providence averages from 10 to 12 feet per mile. Be- 
tween Roxbury and Canton a branch, two miles long, 
has been constructed to the village of Dedham ;* and 
from Mansfield, a branch, eleven miles long, has also 



* This is a large and beautiful town, containing a 
court house, jail, 6 churches, and between 2 and 3000 
inhabitants. Charles and Neponset rivers run through 
the place, and afiord numerous sites for mills and man- 
ufacturing establishments. Silk is reeled and throwst- 
ed here on a small scale — the first experiment of 
throwsting in the U. S. 
ll2 



420 PROVIDENCE. 

been constructed to the village of Taunton, The main 
road and branches arc each laid with a single track, 
but of the most permanent materials* The viaduct at 
Canton is a work of magnitude, and as an object of cu- 
riority, is one of the most interesting on this road. It 
is 450 feet long and from 40 to 50 feet above the natu- 
ral surface, built entirely of granite, in the most per- 
manent manner- 
Two trains of carriages for passengers pass daily 
(Sundays excepted) from and to Boston and Provi- 
dence, and also a train, whose time of arrival and de- 
parture is accommcu'.ated to the time of the boats ply- 
ing between New-Yoik and Providence. The pass- 
age on the rail road is generally effected in two hours 
and a half; and connected, as this road is, with a line 
of splendid steam boats to New- York, it enables the 
traveller to pass between Boston and that city in 14 or 
15 hours. 

PROVIDENCE 

Is situated at the head of tide waters on Narragan- 
set bay, just above the mouth of the Seekonk river, 
and about 33 or 34 miles from the sea. It was founded 
in 1636, by Roger Williams, whose name is so deserv- 
edly celebrated in the history of religious liberty. He 
was a puritan minister at Salem, but differing in some 
points of faith from many of his brethren in the colony, 
he was banished from the limits of Massachusetts, and 
came to a place called by the Indians Mooshausick. 
Here he began a settlement on the principle of entire 
"freedom in religious concernments" — to which, in to- 
ken of his gratitude for the protection and guidance of 



PROVIDENCE. 421 

Heaven, he gave the name of Providence. The town 
is built on both sides of the river which bears its name, 
on the decUvity of a hill that commands an extensive 
view of the surrounding country, and of the beautiful 
bay that lies below. It received a charter of incorpora- 
tion and became a city in 1832. Its situation is not fa- 
vorable to extensive commerce. Its wealth and enter- 
prise are on this accoimt principally devoted to manu- 
factures, for which the numerous streams in its neigh- 
borhood afford abundant facilities. It contains a num- 
ber of attractive public buildings — among which de- 
serve to be mentioned, a court house, market, an ar- 
cade, a new hotel recently erected in the south part 
of the city, near the depot of the Boston and Prov- 
idence rail road, and especially several of the houses for 
public worship, which are built with unusual taste and 
elegance. It is also well supplied with institutions of 
charity and learning. In addition to nearly 20 houses 
of public worship, it has an asylum for the poor, a 
number of academies and a college. For the healthi- 
ness of its situation and the morals of its people. Prov- 
idence stands among the first cities in the Union. Its 
population is about 18,000. 

Brown University, established in this city, was incor- 
porated in 1764, and has always held a respectable 
rank among the colleges of New-England. Since 1827 
the Rev. Francis Wayland, D. D. has been its Presi- 
dent. Under the able and well sustained administra- 
tion of this distinguished gentleman, its character has 
been very much elevated, and its means of instruction 
greatly enlarged. A full and elegant philosophical ap- 
paratus was a few years since presented to the institu- 



4182 PROVIDENCE. 

tion by a lale munificent merchant of Providence, and 
still more recently a fund of 25,000 dollars has been 
raised for the increase of its library. The college edi- 
fices are situated on a commanding eminence, a little 
to the east of the city, in the midst of a spacious inclos- 
ure, adorned with trees and approached through a beau- 
tiful street, lined on either side by over-hanging elms. 
The buildings are three in number — University Hall, 
Hope College and Manning Hall. The latter M-as 
erected in 1S35, and is a beautiful model of chaste and 
simple architecture. It is devoted to the purposes of a 
chapel and library. The catalogue of this seat of learn- 
iiig, for 1836-7, gives as its present faculty G professors 
besides the president, who is also professor of moral 
and intellectual philosophy, 3 tutors, and an instructor 
in modern languages. The number of its students is 
not far from 200. 

About half a mile north-east of the university is a 
large building called the Gluaker College. It was 
built by the society of Friends, and is occupied as a 
boarding school for that denomination. The building, 
which is of plain brick, and the spacious grounds 
around it, are made attractive by the appearance of 
neatness and good order that pervades them. A little 
to the south of this and of corresponding dimensions, 
but richer architecture, stands the Dexter Asylum, a 
noble edifice, erected by the town from the avails of a 
legacy left by a late munificent citizen, whose name it 
bears. 

The city abounds with the most delightful private 
residences. The new town on the west side of the 
river, has more the appearance of a flourishing com- 



STONINGTON AND PROVIDENCE RAIL ROAD. 423 

mercial city than the old. It also contains many spa- 
cious dwellings, which impart to it an air of superiori- 
ty. The Hill, or East Providence, as it is called, is oc- 
cupied by gcr.ilemen's private mansions, or country 
seats, all advantageously located, with fine court yards 
in front, thickly planted with shubbery, while highly 
cultivated and beautiful gardens adorn the rear, and 
add immeasurably to their comfort. The charming res- 
idence of Messrs. Brown, Ives and Governor Fenner 
are entitled to particular notice. It was on the present 
domains of Governor Fenner that Roger Williams first 
planted himself, and it has so happened, that from that 
day to this that situation has belonged to a governor of 
Rhode Island. 

The Blackstone Canal terminates at this place. It 
commences in the Blackstone river at Worcester, 45 
miles distant, and pursues the valley of the river to 
Woonsokett falls, near the Massachusetts fine ; from 
whence there is an excavation to Providence. 

The Stonington and Providence Rail Road 
commences at Providence, and extends to Stonington, 
(Conn.) a distance of 4S| miles, which, being nearly 
completed, will very much shorten the distance and im- 
prove the passage to New- York. To this will soon be 
added the Long Island rail road, 97 miles long, extend- 
ing from the Greenport ferry, 24 miles from Stonning- 
ton, to the Brooklyn ferry, 1 mile from New- York ; 
which will give an uninterrupted communication by 
rail road from the latter place to Boston, excepting 25 
miles of ferriage. 



424 FROM PROTIDENCE TO NEWPORT. 

Steam Boats leave Providence six times a week for 
New- York— fare $6. 

Stages, also, leave Providence three times a week 
for Norwich and Middletown, and daily (except Sun- 
days) for Hartford, Conn., arriving at those places at 
evening. Fare to Norwich, 45 miles, $3 — to Middle- 
town $4 — to Hartford, 74 miles, $4. A stage also 
leaves Providence twice a week for New-London, 
Conn., distant 59 miles, connected with a steam boat 
line for New- York. 

FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. 

Stages leave Providence daily, except Sundays, at 9 
A. M., reaching Bristol at 1 1 and Newport at 4 P. M. 
Fare from Providence to Bristol, 15 miles, $1 — from 
Providence to Newport, 30 miles, $2,33. 

Bristol is a pleasant town, with a population of 
about 1500 inhabitants. The village is located on the 
east shore of the Narraganset bay, affording an excel- 
lent harbor for vessels of the largest dimensions. 
About two miles from the ferry in this town an exten- 
sive mine of anthracite coal was opened a few years 
since, from which very considerable quantities are an- 
nually taken. 

Newport is a large town, with an extensive harbor, 
which is defended by Forts Adams and Dumplings at 
its entrance, and by Fort Wolcott on Goat Island, op- 
posite the town. There is also a small battery about 
a mile above the town, called Fort Green. The vil- 



NEWPORT. 425 

lage is about a mile in length, and rises in a gentle ac- 
clivity from the harbor, giving it a fine appearance when 
approached from the water. It contains a state house, 
theatre, five banks, 12 churches, several manufactories, 
and a population of about 8000. 

Newport was possessed by the British for a conside- 
rable time during the revolutionary war. In 1778, un- 
der an expectation of aid from the French fleet, which 
had sailed into the harbor, an American force, of about 
10,000 strong, commanded by Gen. Sullivan, and aided 
by Gen. Lafayette, made preparations for attacking 
the place. On the approach of the Americans, the 
British abandoned their outposts and retreated to their 
works within the town. These posts were immediate- 
ly possessed by the Americans ; and the most flatter- 
ing prospects existed, that the allied forces would be 
enabled to capture the entire British army. But the 
French admiral, who had been a military officer, and 
who, by a previous arrangement, was to superintend a 
part of the land as well as naval operations, took of- 
fence at some of the movements of Gen. Sullivan, and 
refused a co-operation. While an attempt at reconcil- 
iation was going forward, a British fleet suddenly ap- 
peared off'Newport, which induced the French admiral, 
as a precautionary measure, to sail out of the harbor. 
A severe storm coming on, prevented a naval engage- 
ment ; and both fleets, being left in a shattered condi- 
tion at the close of the tempest, retired — the British to 
New- York, and the French to Newport. During this 
time, Gen. Sullivan had laid siege to the town ; and 
though interrupted by the storm, in which his army 
suffered considerably, he had succeeded in annoying the 



426 NEWPORT. 

enemy, and keeping him within the lines of the village. 
On the return of the French fleet, another effort was 
made to induce the admiral to co-operate with the 
Americans ; but his ships had received so much injury 
in the gale, that he considered it necessary to repair to 
Boston, pursuant to previous instructions from his gov- 
ernment. Under these circumstances, Sullivan de- 
termined on raising the siege. A retreat was effected 
in the night; but on its being discovered the next 
morning, the Americans were pursued by the British 
to Gluaker Hill, where a sharp contest ensued, which 
resulted in the loss of between 2 and 300 of each army. 
Sullivan afterwards retreated to Massachusetts, with 
little or no interruption ; and his retreat was consider- 
ed fortunate, as a British reinforcement, which arrived 
at Newport the day after, would have been enabled ef- 
fectually to cut him off from the main land. 

During the possession of Newport by the British, a 
bold party of men under Colonel Barton, landed from a 
boat in the night, proceeded to the enemy's head quar- 
ters, captured Gen. Prescott, and conveyed him away 
before they could be prevented by the land or naval 
forces then in the harbor. 

From its elegant and healthy situation, its proximity 
to the ocean, and the salubrity of its climate, Newport, 
for several years, has been a place of considerable re- 
sort in the summer months. Were there a direct com- 
munication from this place by stage, or steam-boat, to 
New-London, Hartford or New-Haven, Conn.it would 
add much to the convenience of tourists. But, unfor- 
tunately for this purpose, the steam boats which leave 
Providence and Newport five or six times a week for 



KING FHILIP. 427 

New- York, do not touch at any of the Connecticut 
ports ; and, in order to reach New-London by stage, it 
is necessary to return to Providence. Tliose who have 
travelled down by land, generally return by water. 

Passin": Fort Green, a prospect is soon obtained of 
Mount Hope, a few miles to the northeast of which was 
the former residence of King Philip, of the Narragan- 
set tribe of Indians, and was also the place of his death. 
The well known energy and enterprise of his charac- 
ter made him an object of great jealousy and appre- 
hension, and he was accused of always cherishing a 
secret and implacable hostility towards the EngHsh. 
A renegado Indian subject had heightened this jealousy, 
by revealing to the whites the pretended hostile pro- 
jects of Philip. This informer was shortly afterwards 
found murdered in a pond, having fallen a victim to the 
vengeance of his tribe. Three Indians, one of whom 
was a friend and counsellor of Philip, were seized by 
the whites, tried, and on rather slight grounds execu- 
ted. This outraged the pride and exasperated the pas- 
sions of Phihp, and a long and bloody war was the 
consequence. The whites possessed more military 
skill, were generally victorious, and Philip was driven 
from his paternal domains and compelled to take refuge 
in the depths of forests or the glooms and thickets of 
swamps. At one time he was driven, with a band of 
followers, into the great swamp of Pocasset Neck, 
where the English forces did not dare to pursue him, 
fearing to venture into these dark and frightful recesses. 
They therefore invested the entrance into the neck, and 
began to build a fort, with the intention of starving out 
the foe ; but Phihp and his companions, leaving their 



428 KING PHILIP. 

women and children behind, wafted themselves on a 
raft over an arm of the sea, in the dead of night, and 
escaped away to the westward, kindling the flames of 
war among the tribes of Massachusetts and the Nip- 
muck country, and threatening the colony of Connect- 
icut. 

One of the most faithful friends that Philip had in the 
time of his adversity, was Canonchet, chief sachem of 
all the Narragansets. Though he had forborne to take 
an active part in this hopeless war, yet he received 
Philip and his shattered forces with open arms, and 
gave him the most generous countenance and support. 
This at once drew on Canonchet the hostility of the 
English ; and it was determined to strike a single blow 
that should involve both sachems in a common ruin. 
A great force was therefore gathered together from Mas- 
sachusetts, Plymouth and Connecticut, and sent into 
the Narraganset country, in the depth of winter, when 
the swamps being frozen and leafless, no longer afford- 
ed impenetrable fortresses to the Indians. Apprehen- 
sive of attack, Canonchet had sheltered the greater part 
of his stores, together with the old, the infirm, the wo- 
men andchildren of his tribe,in a strong fortress, where 
he and Philip had likewise drawn up the flower of their 
forces. This fortress, deemed by the Indians impreg- 
nable, was situated upon a rising mound, or kind of 
island, of five or six acres, in the middle of a swamp, 
constructed with a judgment and skill vastly superior 
to the usual fortifications of the Indians ; and indicative 
of the martial genius of these two chieftains. 

Guided by a renegado Indian, the English penetrat- 
ed, through December snows, to this strong hold, and 



KING PHILIP. 429 

c&me upon the garrison by surprise. Tiie fight was 
fierce and tumultuous. The assailants were repulsed 
in their first attack ; and several of their bravest officers 
were shot down in the act of storming the fortress, 
sword in hand. The assault was renewed with greater 
success ; a lodgment was effected ; the Indians were 
driven from one hold to another ; they disputed their 
ground inch by inch, fighting with the fury of despair ; 
most of their veterans were cut to pieces, and after a 
long and bloody battle, Philip and Canonchet, with a 
handful of surviving warriors, retreated from the fort 
and plunged into the depths of the surrounding forest. 
The victors set fire to the wigwams and the fort ; the 
whole was soon in a blaze ; and many of the old men, 
the women and the children perished in the flames. 
This last inhuman outrage overcame the stoicism of the 
savage. The neighboring woods resounded with the 
yells of rage and despair, uttered by the fugitive war- 
riors, as they beheld, with anguish of heart, the desola- 
tion of their dwellings, and heard the agonizing cries of 
their wives and offspring. " The burning of the wig- 
wams," says a contemporary writer, " tlie shrieks and 
cries of the M'omcn and children, and the yelling of the 
warriors, exhibited a most horrible and affecting scene, 
so that it greatly moved some of the soldiers." 

The defeat of the Narraganset fortress, and the death 
of Canonchet, were fatal blows to the fortunes of King 
Philip. He made an ineffectual attempt to raise a head 
of war, by stirring up the Mohawks to take up arms ; 
but though possessed of the native talents of a states- 
man, his arts were counteracted by the superior arts of 
his enlightened enemies, and the terror of their warlike 



430 KING PHILIP. 

skill began to subdue the resolution of the neighboring 
tribes. 

With a scanty band of followers, who still remained 
true to his desperate fortunes, the unhappy Philip wan- 
dered back to the vicinity of Mount Hope, the ancient 
dwelling of his fathers. Here he lurked about like a 
spectre, among the desolated scenes of former power 
and prosperity, now bereft of home and friends. Even 
in this last refuge of desperation and despair, a sullen 
grandeur seems to gather round his memory. Defeat- 
ed, but not dismayed — crushed to the earth, but not hu- 
miliated, he seemed to grow more haughty beneath dis- 
aster, and to receive a fierce satisfaction in draining the 
last dregs of bitterness. The very idea of submission 
awakened the fury of Philip, and he even smote to death 
one of his followers who proposed an expedient of peace. 
The brother of the victim made his escape, and, in re- 
venge, betrayed the retreat of his chieftain. A body of 
white men and Indians was immediately dispatched to 
the swamp where Philip lay crouched, glaring with fury 
and despair. Before he was aware of their approach, 
they had begun to surround him. In a little while he 
saw five of his trustiest followers laid dead at his feet; 
a resistance was vain ; he rushed forth from his covert, 
and made a headlong attempt at escape, but was shot 
through the heart by a renegado Indian of his own na- 
tion. 

After leaving Fort Green, the steam boat successively 
passes Prudence, Patience, Hope and Despair islands, 
and Providence is reached in going 20 miles from tlie 
northern extremity of the latter. 



FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON, 431 

FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON, 65J milcS. 

The rail road mentioned at p. 423, is taken to 

Stonington, 48^ miles. The village is incorpora- 
ted ; contains a U. S. arsenal, several factories, a bank, 
an academy, 4 churches, and a population of about. 4000. 
It has a good harbor, and is a place of considerable 
trade. 

The settlement of the place commenced as early as 
1649. It had previously been a part of the territory of 
the Pequots, a powerful and warlike tribe of Indians. 
The early English settlers, in different parts of Connec- 
ticut, had been frequently annoyed by this tribe ; and, 
in 1637, it became necessary to take efficient steps for 
their expulsion. An expedition vias entrusted to Capt. 
Mason ; who, with about 300 colonists raised in Con- 
necticut and Massachusetts, and 200 Mohegan and 
Narraganset Indians, encamped on the night of the 
26th of May at a place called Porter's rocks, a short 
distance from the present village of Stonington, and 
about three miles from one of the principal forts of the 
Pequots, which was situated on the summit of a hill. 
Two iiours before dav the little army was in motion • 
and on approaching the fort, it was found that the ene- 
my, about 700 strong, were in a profound sleep, with- 
out their usual watch, having spent the previous night 
in revelry and drunkenness. On a close approxima- 
tion of Mason's men, a dog v.'ithin the fort commenced 
barking, which awakened one of the Pequots ; who, 
perceiving the approach of the assailants, aroused his 
comrades from their slumbers. Mason immediately 
mm2 



43lS NEW-LONDON. 

advanced, and through the apertures of the paHsades 
poured in a fire, and then rushed in through a part of 
the fort slightly barricaded. Notwithstanding their con- 
fusion, the Pequots defended themselves with braver}*; 
but having but few other weapons than bows and ar- 
rows, they were unable to withstand the assailants, 
who cut them down without mercy with their swords 
and bayonets. To render the victory complete. Ma- 
son ordered their wigwams to be fired. The blaze 
soon spread in all directions, compelling the besieged 
to ascend the palisades ; from whence more than one 
hundred were shot down by the assailants who had 
then surrounded the fort. Others, attempting to break 
through the lines of the troops, were either shot or cut 
down, and several perished in the flames. The scene 
continued about an hour, when it was found that sev- 
enty wigwams had been destroyed, and that the ground 
was strewed with the bodies of between five and six 
hundred of the slain. Mason's loss was only two men 
killed and sixteen wounded. 

In August, ] 814, a bombardment of Stonington took 
place from a British 74, afrigate, a sloop of war and an 
armed brig; but with the aid of two 18 pounders and 
a four pounder, the inhabitants defended the place, pre- 
vented the landing of troops from barges, and finally 
compelled the enemy to haul oft', with his brig consid- 
erably shattered. 

NEW-LONDON 

Is 17 miles from Stonington, and is a city and port of 
entry. It has the best harbor in Connecticut, and is 
defended by Forts Trumbull and Griswold. The city 



NEW-LONDON. 433 

is on the west bank of the Thames, within 3 miles of 
its mouth, and contains a court house, two banks, six 
churches, and a population of about 4500 inhabitants. 
Many of the houses on the heights, back of the town, 
and a lew in the city, are handsome ; but the general 
appearance of the place is uninteresting. 

New-London, like Stonington, was once within the 
territory of the Pequot Indians, and was settled at the 
same time. About 4 miles east of the city, on what is 
called Fort Hill, this nation had their strongest fortress. 
But slight remains of it, however, are now to be seen. 

In September, 1781, after the treason of Arnold, an 
expedition was entrusted to his care against New-Lon- 
don. A strong detachment landed on both sides of the 
harbor at the mouth of the river. Arnold, who com- 
manded in person the troops which landed on the west 
side, immediately advanced against Fort Trumbull, an 
adjoining redoubt, and New-London. These posts be- 
ing untenable, were abandoned on his approach. Col. 
Eyere, who commanded the detachment which landed 
on the eastern side, proceeded to storm Fort Griswold, 
situate on Groton Hill. It was occupied by a garrison 
of 160 men, commanded by Col. Ledyard, apart of 
whom had just evacuated the works on the opposite 
side of the river. Ledyard defended the fort until the 
British succeeded in entering the embrasures with 
charged bayonets. Further resistance being useless, 
Ledyard surrendered his sword to the British colonel; 
"who, in defiance of every rule of civilized warfare, 
plunged it into the bosom of the conquered officer, and 
continued the carnage until the greater part of the gar- 
rison was destroyed. Eyere, however, lost his own life 



434 FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH. 

in the afiair, and 200 of his men were either killed or 
wounded. New-London was, at the same time, set on 
fire by the direction of Arnold, and most of its build- 
ings and all the public stores deposited in the place 
consumed in the conflagration. 

Forts Griswold and Trumbull are still in tolerable 
preservation ; and were garrisoned by the government 
during the late war with Great Britain. 

A steam boat leaves New-London three times a 
week for New- York, on the arrival of tiie Stonington 
stage. 

Stages also leave New-London on Tuesday, Thurs- 
day and Saturday at 8 A, M. and arrive at Hartford at 
5 P. M. passing through Waterville, Montville, Salem, 
Colchester, Hebron, Marlborough, Glastenbury and 
East Hartford. Distance 47 miles — fare $2. This is 
the most direct route; but the traveller will find it inter- 
esting to take a trip up the Thames to Norwich ; from 
whence a conveyance may be had to Hartford, as no- 
ticed hereafter. 

FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH, by steam-boat, 

14 miles. 
Previous to the settlement of New-London, in 1648, 
the Thames was called the Pequot river ; but at that 
period it received its present name. It rises in the 
Massapaeug pond in Union, 3 miles N. E. of Hartford, 
passes into Massachusetts, re-enters Connecticut, and 
pursues a southerly course till it falls into Long Island 
Sound. It is navigable for large vessels no farther than 
Norwich. During the late war, while New-London 
was blockaded, the U. S. ships Macedonian, United 



NORwrcir. 435 

States and Hornet, were moored in a cove above Mas- 
sapeaug Point, and a small battery erected for their 
protection. 

MoHEGAN is on the west bank of the Thames, four 
miles south of Norwich, and is the residence of about 
300 Mohegan Indians, the only remnant of that once 
powerful tnl)e, who formerly owned this section of coun- 
try. On Horlon''s Hill, not far from this place, the lines 
of an old Indian fort can still be traced. 

Trading Cove, about 1 mile farther, is a bay extend- 
ing a short distance into what was once the Indian 
country, and derived its name from the traffic which was 
here carried on between the colonists and the Mohegans. 
The residence of Uncas, their sachem, and early friend 
of the whites, was near this cove, now the centre of the 
Indian reservation. 

NORWICH 

Is an incorporated city. It contains three compact 
settlements ; of which Chelsea Landing, situate at the 
point of land between the Shetucket and Yantic rivers, 
is the principal. Its location is peculiarly romantic ; 
and it is a place of much enterprise and business. 
What is called the Tov/n is 2 miles northvvest of Chel- 
sea, containing the court house and some other public 
buildings ; and a third settlement is Bean Hill, in the 
western part of Norwich. The city contains a bank, 
4 or 5 churches, and several manufacturing establish- 
ments. The Yantic Falls, 1 mile from Chelsea, are 
handsome, and afford facihties for mills and manufac- 



436 NORWICH. 

tories. From a rock 70 or 80 feet in height, which 
overhangs the stream, tradition says a number of Nar- 
ragansets once precipitated themselves when pursued 
by the Mohegans. 

Settlements were commenced at Norwich as early 
as 1660. A part of the town was first conveyed to Thom- 
as Leffing^vell, a colonial militia officer, by the sachera 
Uncas, in consideration of services rendered him in a 
war with a neighboring tribe. A fort belonging to Un- 
cas, on the Pequot river, was closely besieged by the 
Narragansets j and the provisions being nearly ex- 
pended, it was reduced to the last extremity. In this 
situation, Uncas contrived to notify the English at Say- 
brook fort of his distressed condition. Lcffingwell, who 
commanded that fort, immediately conveyed to the be- 
sieged a supply of provisions ; which being soon known 
to the assailants, they were induced to raise the seige. 
For this generous conduct of Lcffingwell, Uncas con- 
veyed to him the land about the fort, and afterwards 
gave him a formal deed of a township, embracing most 
of the present town of Norwich. 

On an elevated bank north of what is called the Cove, 
and near the Yantic falls, is the burying ground of the 
royal family of the Mohegans, commonly called " the 
burying ground of the Uncases." Many of their graves 
are still designated by coarse stones, on some of which 
are English inscriptions. Uncas was buried here and 
many of his descendants; but his family is now nearly 
extinct. There are one or two living who claim a kin- 
dred, but who have very little of the magnanimity or 
valor for which he was so conspicuous. 



FROM NORWICH TO HARTFORD. 437 

The Plain near the burying ground was the summer 
residence of tiie Mohegans, and is a most delightful 
spot. 

FROM NORWICH TO HARTFORD. 

Stages leave Norwich in the morning, and arrive at 
Hartford at 8 P. M. Distance, 39 miles— fare $2,50. 
The intermediate distances and places are as follow : 



Mies. 

Bozrah,.. 5 

Lebanon, 4 

Coventry, 12 



Miles. 

Bolton, 4 

East Hartford, 13 

Hartford, 1 



East Hartford, is located on the east bank of the 
Connecticut river, directly opposite Hartford, with which 
it is connected by an elegant bridge, which, including 
the cause-way, is nearly a mile long. The village con- 
tains 4 churches, several manufacturing establishments? 
and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants. 

HARTFORD. 

A settlement was commenced by the English at this 
place in 1634. The Dutch, from New-Netherlands, 
had previously established a trading house and a port 
at the place, for the purpose of carrying on a commerce 
with the Indians, and were disposed to prevent the 
English from participating in the traffic. But finding 
that this could not be effected, without a bloody contest, 
they abandoned the design. 

The charter which was originally granted to the col- 
onists of Connecticut, having been demanded by the 
English monarch in 1686, through the medium of aa 



438 HARTFORD. 

agent, it was regularly surrendered by the colonial 
legislature. This took place in an evening ; and while 
it remained on a table in a room Avhcre an ag-ent and 
several British officers had assembled, the windows be- 
ing open, on a preconcerted signal, the candles were 
extinguished by persons in the street, and the charter 
seized by a citizen in the room, and conveyed to a tree ; 
in the cavity of which it remained for several years* 
This tree is still standing ; and is known by the name 
of the Charter Oak. It is located in the lower part of 
the town, in the street running east from the south 
church, and is directly in front of the ancient mansion 
of the Wyllis family. The charter is still preserved in 
the office of the secretary of state. 

Hartford is now the largest city in the state. It is lo- 
cated on the west bank of the Connecticut river, at the 
head of sloop navigation, and 50 miles from its mouth. 
The city is handsomely laid out, and contains a number 
of elegant buildings and private residences. Among 
its public buildings, are a state house, arsenal, 3 banks, 
a museum, an academy, a college, an asylum for the 
deaf and dumb, an asylum for the insane, and 12 church- 
es. Popolation about 14,000. 

TVashington College is in Main street, in the south part 
of the city. It was opened in 1824, and consists of two 
edifices; one of which is 150 feet long and 4 stories 
high, and contains the rooms of the students. In the 
other is the chapel, recitation rooms and library. 

The Deaf and Dumb ,^sylum is on Tower Hill, one 
mile west of the city ; and was the first institution of the 
kind established in the United States. The permanent 



HARTFORD. 439 

fund of the institution, including a donation of land by 
congress, amounts to $215,539, of which sum $80,000 
are available. The number of pupils is generally about 
70, many of whom are supported by pubhc and private 
charities. 

A visit to the institution is unusually interesting. 
The utmost order and decorum prevail ; and the stran- 
ger will be delighted with means here employed for 
enlightening and cultivating the minds of an unfortu- 
nate class of the community ; and with the rapid im- 
provement they make, not only in writing, but in a study 
of many of the sciences. Everything is communicat- 
ed by means of signs. Afrer being taught the mode 
of conveying the most necessary ideas, they proceed to 
study the alphabet employed at the institution ; theri 
the names of visible objects, and the order of the letters 
used in designating them ; and finally a knowledge of 
absent objects and abstract ideas, bymeans of ingenious 
devices and definitions. Many soon attain a knowL 
edge of writing correctly ; and some are enabled to 
communicate their ideas in chaste and even elegant lan- 
guage. 

The JVeto Exchange Buildings, on the corner of Mairj 
and State streets, are deserving of notice as a spccimer» 
of good taste, and as ornamental to the city. 

The JVeiu City Hall is an elegant structure, creditable 
to the taste and munificence of the inhabitants. 

The J^ew Episcopal Church, and the High School in 
Washington street, occupy a prominent place. The 
latter is delightfully situated on a commanding emi- 
nence, and ranks in spaciousness and beauty with the 
most favored establishments of the kind in other cities, 

NN 



440 HARTFORD. 

The Episcopal Church is a monument of Hberal public 
spirit guided by good taste, and is surpassed in design 
and execution by few, if any similar buildings in our 
country. 

The Hospital for the Insane, is a stone building, 150 
feet long and 50 wide, 4 stories high, with wings of 3 
stories. It is located a little south of the city. 

Hartford has undergone a surprising change within 
a few years. Its streets have been greatly improved ; 
many of its old buildings have given place to new and 
elegant dwellings, and the whole appearance of the 
city exhibits an unusual degree of enterprise and pros- 
perity. 

STEAM-BOATS. 

'^ A steam boat leaves Hartford for New- York daily at 
11 A. M. reaching New- York the next morning ; and 
leaves New- York daily at 4 P. M. reaching Hartford 
the next day at noon — fare 3,50. 

STAGES. 

To J^eio-Haven* and JVetu- York. — A stage leaves Hart- 
ford every morning, (Sundays excepted) wliich reaches 
New-Haven at noon, and New- York the next morning. 
Fare to New-Haven, 40 miles, $2 ; to New- York, 123 
miles, v$3,50. 

To Boston. — A stage leaves on Monday, Wednesday 
and Friday, at 12 M.and reaches Boston at 2 P. M. the 
next day. Distance, 136 miles — fare §5. 



* A rail road is now constructing between Hartford 
and New-Haven. 



FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN. 441 

To Litchfield, Ct.—A stcgc leaves Hartford daily at 
8 A. M, and arrives at Litchfield at 3 P. M .—Distance 
30 miles, fare ^2. 

Tg Hanover, JV. H. {up Connecticut river.)— A stage 
leaves Hartford daily, (except Sundays) arrives at 
Brattleborough, Vt. the first day, and Hanover, N. H. 
the second— passing through Windsor, Ct. Springfield, 
Northampton, Deerfield, and Greenfield, Mass. Brat- 
tleborough and Westminster, VtWalpole and Charles- 
town, N. H. Windsor and Hartford, Vt. to Hanover. 
[This line intersects the daily stage for Boston at 
Northampton, and the daily stage for Saratoga Springs 
at Charlestown.] Distance from Hartford to Hanover, 
152 miles — fare $7,25. 

To J^ew-London. — A stage leaves Hartford on Mon- 
day, Wednesday and Friday, at 7 A. M. and reaches 
New-London at 2 P. M.— Distance 47 miles— fare $2. 

To Jllhani). — A stage leaves Hartford and Albany ev- 
ery morning (Sundays excepted) at 2, and arrives at 
each place at 7 P. M. — Distance 96 miles— fare g5. 

FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN, 40 ITllleS. 

The intermediate places and distances are as follows : 

Miles 



Wethersfield, 4 

Rocky Hill, 3 

Middletown, 8 



Miles. 

Durham, 7 

Northford, 8 

New-Haven, 10 



Wethersfield is located on the west bank of the 
Connecticut river, 4 miles below Hartford. The soil, 
which is of the finest order, is principally devoted to the 
culture of onions ; of which large quantities are export- 



442 MIDDLETOWN. 

ed annually. The labor is principally performed by 
women and children. The new penitentiary of the 
state is erected at this place. 

Rocky Hill, 3 miles ; a parish in the town of Weth- 
ersfield, containing a lofty eminence, from which a rich 
and variegated prospect of the surrounding country is 
enjoyed. Six miles farther is a village, called Middle- 
town Upper Houses ; from which to the city of Middle- 
town is 2 miles. 

MIDDLETOWN 

Is a port of entry, and is handsomely located on the 
west bank of the Connecticut river, 31 miles from its 
mouth. Among its public buildings are a court house, 
jail, alms-house, 2 banks, 7 churches, and a university 
sustained by the Methodists. There are also several 
extensive manufactories of rifles, swords, buttons, ivo- 
ry combs, woollen and cotton goods, &c. The popula- 
tion of the cit}- is about 8000. 

The Wesleyan University, founded in 1831, is an insti- 
tution of great promise, under the patronage of the 
Methodist Episcopal church. Its buildings are eligibly 
situated, on a hill adjacent to the city, and command a 
fine view of the surroundins' country. It possesses a 
valuable library, cabinet of minerals, chemical and phi- 
losophical apparatus, &c. 

On the east bank of the Connecticut, opposite to 
Middletown, are several quarries of free stone, used for 
building. Immediately below the city, the river turns 
abruptly to the west ; and passes between two lofty 
hills, forming what are called the Narrows. Within 



MIDDLETOWN. 443 

these Narrows, on the south bank of the river, is a lead 
mine, which was used during the revolutionary war. 
It can be approached only in boats or by means of a 
foot path.* 

In proceeding on the stage route to New-Haven, the 
only object witnessed worthy of remark, is a natural 
ice hoxise in the parish of Northfield, 18 miles from 
Middletown, and 7 from New- Haven. It is on the de- 
cHvity of a trap ridge near the road, and contains ice 
throughout the year. 

A natural ice house of still greater extent is in the 
town of Meriden, on another route from Hartford to 
New-Haven, and nearly equi-distant from those places. 
It is in a country composing a part of the secondary 
trap region of Connecticut, and is marked by numer- 
ous distinct ridges of green stone, which present lofty 
mural precipices, and from their number, contiguity 
and parallelism, they often form narroAV precipitous de- 
files, filled more or less with fragments of rocks of va- 
rious sizes, from that of a hand-stone to that of a cot- 
tage. 



* Continuing a course down the river, the steam boat 
successively passes Middle Haddam, Haddam, East 
Haddam, Essex or Petti paug, and Saybrook, where the 
river enters Long Island Sound. The shores are gen- 
erally bold and rocky, and present but few objects of 
interest. Saybrook was the first town settled on the 
river ; at which time (1G35) a small fort was erected at 
the place. The town was originally granted to Lord 
Say and Seal, Lord Brook and others, and derived its 
name from these proprietors. Yale college was locat- 
ed here for a time, and afterwards removed to New- 
Haven. 

nn2 



444 NEW-HAVEN. 

It is in ihe cavities beneath these masses of rock that 
tlie ice is formed. The ground descends a httle to the 
south, and a small brook appears to have formed a 
channel among the rocks. The ice is thick and well 
consolidated, and its gradual melting, in the vjrarm sea- 
son, causes a stream of ice-cold water to issue from 
this defile. This fact has been known to the people of 
the vicinity for several generations, and the youth have, 
since the middle of the last century, been accustomed 
to resort to this place in parties for recreation, and to 
drink the waters of the cold flowing brook. 

NEW-HAVEN J 
Twenty-five miles from Middletown, is usually pro- 
nounced by travellers to be one of the handsomest 
towns in the Union. It is located around a harbor 
which sets up about 4 miles from Long Island Sound, 
and is the semi-capital of the state. The city is built 
on a large plain, encircled on all sides except those oc- 
cupied by the water, by hills and lofty mountains. It 
is divided into two parts, called the old and new town- 
ships, in each of which is an open square. The hou- 
ses are generally neat, and some are very elegant. To 
each dwelling there is generally attached a garden, and 
frequently a beautiful yard in front. Added to which 
several of the streets are adorned with lofty trees, giv- 
ing the whole a rural and most delightful appearance. 
Among the public buildings are a state house, the col- 
lege edifices, 6 churches, a court house, jail, 2 banks, a 
custcm house and 3 or 4 academies. The population 
is between 12 and 14,0U0. 



NEW-HAVEN. 



445 



The Public Square or Green, near ilie centre of the 
city, is an elegant spot, containing several acres, and 
is surrounded by stately elms. In the centre are three 
churches and the state house ; on the west side, the 
college buildings ; and on the east side, frontring the 
state house, the Tontine Coffee House. The space 
immediately in tiie rear of the churches, called the Up* 
per Green, was formerly used as a burying ground ; but 
in 1821 the monuments were removed to the new bu- 
rying ground, in the north-western part of the city. 
The ancient monument of Dixwell {see p. 352) is still 
to be seen, and it is believed by many that the other 
regicides, Goffe and Whalley, were also interred here ; 
but this opinion is unsupported by evidence. Goffo 
died at Hadlej', and was probably buried there ; and of 
Whalley no certain information was ever obtained af- 
ter he left Hadley. 

Yale College was founded in 1701, and was named 
after its early benefactor, Elihu Yale, governor of the 
East India Company. It was originally located at Kil- 
lingworth ; afterwards removed to Sa} brook, {seep, 
443 ;) and from thence, in 1717, to New-Haven. The 
faculty is composed of a president, 10 professors, a li- 
brarian and 8 tutors. The library consists of about 
10,000 volumes ; and the literary societies among the 
students have libraries amounting, collectively, to 5000 
more. The cabinet of minerals is very extensive, and 
by far the most valuable of any in the Union. The 
college buildings consist of four spacious edifices, each 
4 stories high, 104 feet long and 40 wide, and each con- 
taining 32 rooms for students ; two chapels, one con- 
taining a philosophical chamber ; a Lyceum, contain- 



446 WEST ROCK. 

ing the library and recitation rooms — all of brick ; and 
a handsome dining hall in the rear of the other build- 
ings, built of stone. Seven of these buildings stand in 
a line fronting the green, the Lyceum occupying a cen- 
tral position ; and the whole, with the charming scene- 
ry around, form a most enchanting and elegant land- 
scape. The medical institution fronting College street 
is connected with the college, and has a valuable ana- 
tomical museum. The number of students at Yale is 
generally from 450 to 500. The alumni of the institu- 
tion amounted, in 1S26, to upwards of 4000— of whom 
more than 2200 were then living. 

The JS''ew Burying Ground^ containing several acres, 
is divided into parallelograms, which are subdivided for 
families. The ground is planted with trees, mostly 
willows ; and the white monuments, several of Mhich 
are obelisks, seen through the foliage, with the taste 
and uniformity every where discovered, give to the 
whole a most impressive and solemn appearance. 

The Tontine Coffee House is one of the best establish- 
ments of the kind in the U. S. It is located directly in 
front of the state house and college edifices, the public 
square intervening, commanding from its upper or 
fourth story a beautiful and extensive view of the city 
and the surrounding country. The Tontine, which is 
built of brick, is 80 feet long, with a wing extending 
back 100 feet. It contains a spacious dining hall, co- 
tillion room, 8 private and pubiic parlours, and a suffi- 
cient number of lodging chambers to accommodate 
from 80 to 100 guests. 

West Rock is 2 miles north-west of New-Haven. It 
is the southern extremity of the east ridge of the Green 



FARMING TON CANAL. 447 

Mountains, and is a perpendicular bluHMVonting the 
south, 400 feet in height. The village of Hotchkiss- 
townisatits foot. The cave in which the regicide 
judges, Whalley & Goffe, secreted themselves for three 
or four years, [see p. 352,) is on the summit of the rock, 
about a mile north of the bluff. The cave is formed by 
the crevices between several large rocks, apparently 
thrown together by some convulsion, and is entirely 
above ground. Near the top of one of the rocks is this 
inscription : " Opposition to tyrants is obedience to 
God." During the continuance of the regicides at this 
place, they were furnished daily with food by a family 
who resided near the foot of the mountain. 

East Rock is 2 miles north-east of New-Haven, and 
is the southern termination of the Mount Tom range of 
mountains. It is 370 feet high, and from its top a fine 
view is had of New-Haven, its harbor, the Sound and 
Long Island. It was for some years the residence of a 
hermit, who was found dead in his habitation a few 
years since. 

The Farmington Canal, which was originally com- 
menced at the north line of the state, terminates at 
New-Haven— distance 58 miles, lockage 218 feet. This 
canal has since been extended to Northampton, Mass. 
between 20 and 30 miles farther ; and a branch has 
been constructed from Farmington up the Farming- 
ton river, to New-Hartford, 15 miles. 

The towns bordering on the Sound, near New- 
Haven, are visited in the summer months by numerous 
invalids for the benefit of the sea breeze and a salubri- 
ous climate. Among these towns, Guilford, 15 miles 
cast of New-Haven, is generally preferred. It has two 



448 FROM NEW-HAVEN TO NEW-YORK. 

harbors, is a place of considerable trade, and is con- 
stantly supplied with the best of oysters, lobsters and 
fish, taken in and near the habors. 

Steam Boats ply between New-Haven and N. York 
daily, leaving the former place at S P. M. and the latter 
at 7 A. M. The passage is generally performtd in S 
or 9 hours. Fare $2. 

Stages leave New-Haven daily for Hartford, Boston, 
Albany and New- York. Distance to Hartford 40 
miles ; to Boston, 136 miles; to Albany, 110 miles; 
to New- York, 86 miles. * 



* This route is usually performed in 12 or 14 hours, 
and the intervening places and distances are as fol- 
low : 



Miles. 

Stratford, 13 

Bridgeport, 3 

Fairfield, 5 

NorwalU, 10 



J\Iiles. 

Stamford, 11 

Greenwich, 6 

Harlaem, 30 

New-York, 8 



Bridgeport is handsomely situated on both banks 
of the Puohquonntick river. The village contains a 
bank and two churches. 

Fairfield is a port of entry on Long Island Sound, 
containing a court house, academy, several churches, 
and a population of about 2000. It was on a low lev- 
el piece of ground, which is seen on the left side of the 
road, about a mile and a half after leaving the village, 
that the remnant of the Pequot tribe of Indians, after 
the destruction of their fort by Capt. Mason at Mystic, 
(see ;j. 431,) were either killed or captured. The battle 
was severe and bloody, and some relics of arms used 



FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. 449 

FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. 

A stage leaves New-Haven daily for Litchfield, pass- 
ing through Waterbury and Watertown— distance 38 
miles. 

Passing West Rock, (see p. 446,) and proceeding 
from thence for a considerable distance in a northerly- 
direction, through a beautiful valley, having on its right 
a lofty rocky barrier, with rude perpendicular precipi- 
ces, Beacon Mountain is reached in travelling 14 miles 
from New-Haven. This mountain is a ridge of almost 
naked rocks stretching to the southwest. " The road, 
which is formed in the natural gap of the mountain, 
here winds through a bold gulf or defile, so narrow, 
that at one place only a single carriage can pass at 
once. On both sides, the clifls are lofty, particularly 
on the left ; and on the right, a little distance from the 



in the contest are at this day occasionally found by the 
inhabitants. 

NoRWALK is on the Sound, and is a pleasant village, 
containing an academy and 3 churches. 

West Chester County, which is entered in a few 
miles after leaving Greenwich, and which was " neu- 
tral ground" during the revolutionary war, was selected 
by Mr. Cooper, the novelist, as the principal scene of 
his " Spy." 

At Horseneck, 33 miles from N. York, the traveller 
is shown the steep, down M'hich Gen. Putnam descend- 
ed on horse-back during the revolution. 

At Harl.em, 8 miles from New- York, the road pass- 
es near the East river, affording the traveller a view of 
Hurl Gate. (See p. 124.) 



450 LITCHFIELD. 

road, tliey overhang in a frightful manner." Beyond 
this gap, the road turns more to the left, running along 
a rivulet ; and after three or four miles, on rising an 
eminence, the Naugatuck, a branch of the Housatonic 
river, is discovered. It runs through a deep and narrow 
(Tiilf, which is seen from the road, 

Watf.rtown, 26 miles from New-Haven, is on a 
commanding hill, and is a beautiful little village, con- 
taining two churches. 

Litchfield is on a handsome eminence, and is con- 
sidered one of the most pleasant villages in the state. 
The principal street extends more than a mile in length, 
and contains a collection of neat houses, adorned with 
gardens and court yards. Among the public buildings 
are a court house, jail, bank and two churches. There 
is also at this place a young ladies' school, which has 
obtained much celebrity ; and a distinguished law 
school, established in 1784, by the late Tapping Reeve, 
and now under the charge of the Hon. James Gould. 
The number of students educated at thi<? institution 
since its establishment is between 6 and 700. 

Mount Tom, near the south-west corner of this town 
is 700 feet above the river at its base, and affords from 
its top an extensive prospect. 

The Great Pond in Litchfield, comprises an area of 
about 900 acres, is the largest in the state, and is a 
beautiful sheet of water, affording at its outlet a num- 
ber of valuable mill sites. 

.i Chalybeate Spring has been discovered within a 
few years, on the east side of Mount Prospect, four 



FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 451 

miles west of the village of Litchfield. It issues from 
an extensive bed of sulphuret of iron, and is copious 
and perrennial, exhibiting in its course much oxide of 
iron, ochre, and a wliite deposit. 

Mount Prospect, is a rocky, wood clad, elevated ridge, 
of two miles extent. From its summit an interesting 
and diversified view is presented of villages and lakes, 
and of a well cultivated, healthy country. 

From Litchfield, a stage may be taken daily, passing 
through East Goshen, Norfolk, Canaan, Sheffield, Great 
Barrington, Vfest Stockbridge, Chatham, Nassau, Scho- 
dack and Greenbush to Albany, and reaching the latter 
place in about 24 hours. Distance 72 miles — fare %A. 
This is the most direct route, also, from Litchfield to 
Saratoga Springs ; but, to make the tour of New-Eng- 
land more complete, it is recommended to proceed from 
Litchfield to Hartford, and from thence up the beautiful 
valley of the Connecticut river, which is variegated with 
villages and country seats, and presents some of the 
finest scenery on the continent. 

FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 

A stage may be taken at Litchfield daily, except 
Sundays, at 4 A. M. passing through Harwinton, Bur- 
lington and Farmington, and reaching Hartford at 1 1 
A. M. Distance 30 miles— fare $2. 

Harwinton is a small village, 7 miles from Litch- 
field, on the Naugatuck river. 

Burlington, 7 miles. 

00 



452 ROUTE UP THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

Farmington, 6 miles. This is a pleasant village, 
located on the Farmington river, which, after leaving the 
viUa^Te, takes a northerly course for 15 miles, where it 
is joined by the^Salmon river. It then turns to the 
southeast, passing between lofty mountains, and de- 
scends a cataract of 150 feet; after which it is called 
the Windsor river, and joins the Connecticut 4 miles 
above Hartford. Farmington contains 3 churches and 
a population of between 2 and 3000. [For a notice of 
the Farmington canal, which passes through this place, 
see page 349.] 

Hartford, 10 miles. (See p. 437.) 

ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF THE CONNECTICUT 
RIVER. 

Stages run daily between Hartford, Conn, and Han- 
over N. H. up the Connecticut river, as noticed at page 
441.' Passing through East Hartford, (sec p. 437,) the 
first village reached is 

Windsor, 7 miles from Hartford, located on the 
west bank of the river. Settlements were commenced 
at this place as well as at Hartford, in 1633. 

Enfield, 9 miles. A canal has been constructed 
around the falls at this place, of sufficient dimensions 
to receive steam-boats ; and they now pass as far up 
as Sprincrfield without difficulty, and except in very 
low water, for a considerable distance above Windsor, 
Vt This canal commences at the head of the Falls, 



ENFIELD. 453 

by a wing dam 700 feet long, which reaches to the mid- 
dle of the river. From the lower end of the wing dam 
a pier extends down 200 feet parallel to and 100 feet 
from the west bank, and is raised above the river so as 
to form a basin and safe entrance to the guard lock. 
At right angles to this pier, a breast wail of solid ma- 
sonry, strengthened by buttresses, extends 70 feet 
towards the bank, and is thert united to the guard lock , 
This and the breast M'all are sixteen feet higher than 
the surface of the water in the canal, presenting a firm 
defence against the highest floods. The breast wall 
covers twelve sluices, with sliding gates, for the free 
admission of water for hydraulic purposes. The river 
banks are generally high and rocky, for about three 
miles below the guard lock, and the canal is formed by 
an embankment of earth raised in the bed of the river, 
and protected on the outside by a stone wall. Two 
miles below the guard lock. Mill brook crosses the line 
of the cancl, and is passed by an aqueduct 90 feet 
long- and 60 feet wide, having 6 piers and abutments of 
substantial masonry. The height of the artificial em- 
bankment increases gradually, as it passes down the 
river, until it rises to a perpendicular elevation of 25 
feet, when the high river bank retires to the west, and 
the canal is carried about two miles over land to its ter- 
mination below the falls. Here are three locks of ma- 
sonry of ten feet lift each. The locks are separated by 
pools 50 feet wide, in which ascending and descend- 
ing boats may pass each other, without the detention 
which is unavoidable where several locks are combined 
in a connected Ime. The dimensions of the locks are 
90 feet by 20 in the clear, and they are calculated to 



454 SUFFIELD — SPRINGFIELD. 

have four feet depth of water. The depth of the canal 
varies from four to twenty feet. The average width, at 
the surface of the water, is about seventy feet and the 
total length five and a half miles. 

SuFFiELD, 1 mile from Enfield, on the west bank of 
the river, is a beautiful town. The village, which is on 
an eminence about a mile west of the river road, is 
composed principally of one street, half a mile in ex- 
tent. The houses, with their handsome gardens and 
yards, present a picturesque and elegant appearance. 
A sulphur spring, a mile or two southwest of the village, 
is a place of some resort by invalids. 

West Springfield, 9 miles, is located on the west 
bank of the Connecticut river, and contains several 
handsome private dwellings. Abridge here crosses the 
river, connecting the place v*^ith 

Springfield, on the opposite side ; which is a large 
and handsome village. The houses are principally lo- 
cated at the foot of a hill ; on the west side of which are 
several elegant residences, and on the summit a U. S, 
arsenal. The village contains a court house, jail, five 
churches, and several manufactories. 

The buildings composing the arsenal on the heights, 
occupy a large square, and are surrounded by a high 
wall. They are mostly built of brick and present a 
magnificent appearance. About 13,000 muskets are 
manufactured here annually. The water works em- 
ployed for the purpose are on Mill river, a mile south 
of the arsenal. 



SPRINGFIELD. 455 

Springfield became the theatre of savage barbarity 
during Phihp's war in 1 675. The towns still further up 
the river had, for some time previous, suffered severely 
from repeated Indian incursions. But the Springfield 
tribe had thus far remained quiet ; and it was not till 
the month of October of this year, that Philip could 
succeed by his artifices to enlist them in his favor. On 
the night of the 4th, it was ascertained by means of 
a friendly Indian, that 300 of the tribe had suddenly and 
secretly assembled at a fort on Long Hill, about a mile 
below the village. This intelligence produced much 
consternation among the inhabitants ; and they imme- 
diately repaired to their fortified houses. No distur- 
bance, however, occurring in the night, hopes were en- 
tertained that hostilities were not intended on the part 
of the Indians. Lieut, Cooper, the commandant of the 
place, and another, accordingly resolved on repairing 
to the fort, for the purpose of dissipating the fears that 
still existed among the inhabitants. Having reached 
the small stream at the lower part of the village. Coop- 
er and his companions were shot by Indians who were 
concealed in the woods. This seemed to be a signal 
for attack ; as the whole body immediately rushed into 
the town with a horrid yell, and set fire to the unforti- 
fied dwellings and barns. The whole were soon en- 
veloped in flames and consumed. During this period, 
a fire was kept up from the fortified houses upon the 
Indians, and several killed ; but it was not till theyhad 
destroyed 32 dwellings and nearly as many barns, and 
plundered every thing within their reach, that they 
withdrew. A brick house standing at the time of this 
catastrophe, is still in tolerable preservation. 
oo2 



45G HATFIELD. 

During the rebellion of Shays, in 1786, the armory at 
this place was attacked by him ; but he was repulsed 
with the loss of a few men, and his followers subse- 
quently dispersed. 

Pursuing the course of the river on the west side, 
over a beautiful country, 

South Hadley Falls are reached in going 12 miles 
from Springfield. The river here descends in the dis- 
tance of two and a half miles, 52 feet ; and on the east 
side, commencing at South Hadley village, a canal has 
been constructed, corresponding in extent with these 
falls, through which lumber and the largest boats pass. 

Previous to reaching Northampton, the river, (in 
which there is an abrupt turn,) passes between Momit 
Tom on the south, and Mount Holyoke {see p. 349) on 
the north. North of the latter mountain, a most charm- 
ing and extensive plain is presented, embracing many 
elegant villages and country seats. 

Northampton, 5 miles from South Hadley. {See p. 
349.) 

Hadley, 2 miles east of Northampton. (See p. 350.) 

Hatfield, 5 miles north of Northampton, on the 
west side of the river, is a neat and venerable town, 
having been settled as early as 1658. In October, 1675, 
after the burning of Springfield, {see p. 455,) the Indi- 
ans under Philip, flushed with their repeated successes^ 
made an attack on Hatfield ; which was then defended 
by two companies, aided by a third, which came to 
their relief during the conflict. The Indians were about 



MUDDT BROOK. 457 

700 strong, and made a furious assault upon the town 
in various directions, pillaging and burning several of 
the houses. But they were defeated, and compelled to 
seek safety in a precipitate flight. 

On the 30th of May of the following year, another 
attack was made upon Hatfield by 600 Indians. Twelve 
unfortified buildings were immediately burnt ; but tho 
others, v.'hich were paUisaded, were defended by a few 
inhabitants. Part of the Indians then repaired to the 
fields, and attacked the men at their labor ; but 25 
young men crossed the river from Hadley, and rushing 
upon the enemy, killed several, and finally, with the 
aid of the inhabitants, dispersed them. 

Muddy Brook, 9 miles from Hatfield, is a small vil- 
lage, deriving its name from a stream which passes 
through the place, bordered by a narrow morass. The 
place in 1G75, and for some time subsequent, was call- 
ed Bloody Brook, in consequence of a battle which was 
fought with the Indians on the 18th of September of 
that year. Capt. Lothrop, who had been despatched 
with 80 men and several teams, to secure a quantity of 
wheat in Deerfield, two or three miles farther north, 
was surprised on his return through this place, by a 
party of 700 Indians, who had secretly watched his 
movements, and who lay in ambush awaiting his ar- 
rival. He had no sooner crossed the small stream 
above mentioned, than they rushed upon him, pouring 
in such a deadly fire as to produce complete discomfit- 
ure. Lothrop and his men fled ; but being pursued 
and overtaken at all points, they resolved to sell their 
lives in a vigorous struggle. They accordingly posted 



453 DEERFIELD. 

themselves behind the neighboring trees ; when the 
conflict became a trial of skill in sharp shooting. At 
length the struggle terminated in the annihilation of 
nearly the whole of the Englisli. Lothrop was killed 
in the early part of the action ; and his loss, including 
teamsters, amounted to ninety. The troops at Deer- 
field, under Captain Mosely, hearing the musketry, 
hastened to the scene of combat, and arrived soon af- 
ter its close. They found the Indians stripping the 
slain. Mosely improving the favorable opportunity, 
rushed upon them and cut them down in ^, all direc- 
tions, driving the remainder into the adjacent swamps. 
The next morning, it was found that a few Indians had 
returned to the field of battle for the purpose of plun- 
der ; but they were soon dispersed. 

Though the loss of the enemy on the previous day 
was estimated at about 100, the engagement was, nev- 
ertheless, more disastrous in its consequences to the 
English. The destruction of ninety valuable men, the 
flower of a thinly scattered population, was calculated 
to produce much despondency, and occasion the most 
serious apprehensions for the safety of the remaining 
colonists. 

The place where this battle M'as fought is near the 
centre of the village, about 30 rods south of the church. 
The bridge over the stream is located at the place where 
Lothrop crossed. Some remains of a coarse monument 
once erected here are still visible. 

Deerfield, 3 miles from Muddy Brook, and 17 
miles north of Northampton, is a handsome village on 



DEERFIELD. 459 

the west bank of the Connecticut river. It is in the 
midst of a very fertile and beautiful country, presenting 
a succession of rich and highly cultivated farms. The 
town was among the early settlements on the river ; 
and, more than any other place, was the theatre of In- 
dian warfare. In September, 1675, an attack was made 
on the place, one man killed, and several houses re- 
duced to ashes. For about 20 years subsequent to this, 
owing to repeated incursions of the savages, the inhab- 
itants were often compelled to abandon their dweUings 
and seek a temporary asylum in the neighboring towns. 
During the French wars under William and Anne, how- 
ever, they maintained their ground until 1704 ; made 
many improvements and enclosed the centre of the vil- 
lage by an extensive but imperfect pallisaded work. 
This fortification was attacked by about 350 French 
and Indians, in the month of February of that year. 
They had secretly taken a position two miles north of 
the village on the evening of the 9th ; from whence 
they cautiously proceeded to the fort the next morning 
before day. There being no sentinels posted, the for- 
tification was easily entered, and the work of destruc- 
tion commenced ere the inhabitants had aroused from 
their slumbers. A feeble resistance, only, could be 
made. All the houses, except one, within the pali- 
sades, were burnt ; between 40 and 50 of the inhabi- 
tants were killed, and 112, including women and chil- 
dren, made prisoners. In the drear of winter, with a 
scanty supply of provisions, and with little clothing, 
the unfortunate captives were compelled to take up 
their line of march for Canada. Mr. Williams, the 
clergyman of the place, and his family, were of the 



460 GREENFIELD. 

number. His wife* was murdered in two or three 
days after commencing the excursion ; and sixteen 
others either died or were massacred before reaching 
the Province. Most of those who survived, after re- 
maining in captivity for some time, were redeemed. A 
daughter of Mr. Williams, however, who had married 
an Indian chief, refused to return. She assumed the 
habihment of a savage, and died in Canada some 
years afterwards. Several of her descendants are still 
living there. 

The house which survived the conflagration at Deer- 
field is still standing, and is owned by Col. Elihu Hoyt. 
It is in a tolerable state of preservation, and exhibits 
to this day the perforation made in the door by toma- 
hawks, as well as the marks of balls in the interior. 
One of these marks is shown, as having been made by 
a ball which killed a female in the house ; and in one 
of the timbers a bullet is seen, which has never been 
extracted. 

Greenfield, 4 miles from Deerfield, is a large and 
pleasant village, on the w-est side of the river ; from 
which it is distant 2 miles. It contains a court house, 
jail, bank and 3 churches. It is a central position for 
the trade of the surrounding country, and is a place of 
wealth and enterprise. A young Ladies' Seminary at 
this place is beautifully located, and under excellent 
regulations. 



* She was afterwards, with her husband, interred in 
the church-yard at Deerfield, and marble slabs placed 
over their graves. 



turner's falls. 461 

Turner's Falls, on the Connecticut river, are 3 
miles from Greenfield, in a north-easterly direction. 
The road taken in visiting them is east of the ordinary 
stage route ; and it is customary, therefore, after an 
excursion to the falls, to return to Greenfield. The 
route is principally over the ground taken by Capt. 
Turner, in his attack on the Indians in 1676. The 
fall is between forty and fifty feet ; but by the erection 
of a dam for the accommodation of a canal, the cat- 
aract has lost much of its original wildness. 

The Indians, amounting to several hundreds, hav- 
ing taken a position on elevated ground, on the west 
bank of the river at the head of the fall, it was deemed 
important to disloge them. This service was under- 
taken by Capt. Turner, at the head of about 160 mount- 
ed troops. He left Hatfield on the 17th of May, 1676, 
and reached within half a mile of the Indian encamp- 
ment before day the next morning without discovery. 
Here his men left their horses, and by a rapid march, 
reached the camp before the Indians awoke from their 
slumbers. A deadly and destructive fire was immedi- 
ately commenced. Believing it to proceed from their 
ancient and powerful enemy the Mohawks, many of 
the Indians fled to the river, and leaped into their ca- 
noes ; but, in attempting to cross, they were mostly 
shot or precipitated over the cataract. Others fled to 
the rocks of the river bank, where they were cut down 
without resistance ; and few escaped the victorious 
arms of the assailants. One hundred were left dead on 
the field ; one hundred and forty were seen to descend 
the cataract ; and their whole loss was afterwards as- 
certained to have been 300. Turner lost but one mait. 



462 VERNON— BRATTLEBOUOUGH. 

In his retreat, he was less fortunate. He was at- 
tacked by other parties of Indians on the route — his 
men divided — himself killed ; and the loss of his par- 
ty, before they reached Hatfield, amounted to between 
30 and 40. Capt. T. is supposed to have fallen in 
what is called Greenfield Meadow, at the mouth of a 
small stream on which a mill now stands ; as his body 
was afterwards found at that place by a scouting party 
of the English. 

Bern ARDST OWN, 5 miles north of Greenfield. 

Vernon, 6 miles ; the first town reached in en-tering 
the state of Vermont. Fort Dummer, built to protect 
the inhabitants against the Indians, was located at this 
place. 

Guilford, 5 miles. Here are two slate quarries and 
several mills and manufactories. 

Brattleborough, 6 miles, a flourishing village, is 
located on the west bank of the Connecticut river ; 
over which there is a permanent bridge. White stone 
creek also passes through the place, affording a num- 
ber of good mill sites. The village contains a bank, 
the most extensive printing establishment in the state, 
and several manufactories. Stages pass daily between 
this place and Boston, Hartford, Albany and Hanoven 

DuMMERSTON, 5 milcs. 

Putney, 5 miles. 



WESTMINSTER — CHARLESTOWN. 463 

Westminster, 5 miles. The first newspaper print- 
ed in Vermont was issued from a press at this place ; 
though it was discontinued several years since for want 
of patronage. The village is located on a beautiful 
plain on the west bank of the Connecticut ; but it has 
not improved much within the last twenty years. 

Walpole, N. H. to which a bridge leads, is on the 
opposite side of the river, and is noticed at p. page 359, 

Bellows Falls, on the Vermont side, 4 miles from 
Walpole. {See p. 357.) Proceeding up the river over 
a beautiful plain, 

Charlestown, N.H. is reached in travelling 8 miles 
from Bellows Falls. It is handsomely located on the 
east side of the river, and is a neat village, containing 
a court house, jail and bank. 

A fort was built for the defence of this place in 1743, 
on rising ground south of the church, over which the 
present street passes. In March, 1747, while the fort 
was occupied by Capt. Stevens and thirty men, a furi- 
ous assault was made upon it by a large body of French 
and Indians, under the command of M. Debeline. The 
fort being composed of materials which were combus- 
tible, the enemy attempted its destruction by setting a 
log house and the fences to the windward on fire. To 
guard against a conflagration, the besieged, through 
great exertions, succeeded in making several subterra- 
nean passages under the parapet, with an opening at 
the top of each. From these passages, which were 
deep enough to protect the men from the enemy's shot, 
pp 



464 SPRINGFIELD — WEATHERSPIELD. 

water, taken from a well within the fort, was thrown 
upon the parapet, and the plan of the enemy frustrated. 
A sort of mantelet, loaded with dry faggots, set on fire, 
was then forced towards the fort, accompanied with 
flaming arrows ; but all to no purpose. Stevens main- 
tained his position, continued a fire upon the enemy 
whenever he presented himself, and refused all propo- 
sitions of a surrender. After an assault of three days, 
and suffering severely in the loss of his men, Debehne 
withdrew from the siege. None of Stevens' men were 
killed, and but two wounded. 

For this brave defence, Sir Charles Knowles, com- 
mandant of a naval force then in Boston harbor, sent 
Capt. Stevens an elegant sword. The town was sub- 
sequently named in honor of Sir Charles. 

From Charlestown a stage may be taken daily for 
Saratoga Springs, passing through Chester, Manches- 
ter, &c. ; or for Boston, passing through Walpole, 
Reene, &c. (See p. 356 to 362.) 

Springfield, Vt. on the west side of the river, 5 
miles from Charlestown. 

"Weathersfield, 6 miles ; a fine agricultural town- 
ship. Jarvis' farm, at what is termed Weathersfield 
Bow (a turn in the river) is considered one of the best 
in Vermont. 

Windsor, 7 miles. (See p. 366.) 

Hartland, 7 miles. 



HARTFORD — HANOVER. 465 

Hartford, 7 miles. jThere are two handsome villa- 
ges in this town ; one near the junction of the White 
river, and the other near the junction of the Glueechy 
river with the Connecticut. In both there are several 
mills and manufactories. From Hartford the river is 
crossed to 

Hanover, (noticed at p. 367,) from whence a stage 
may be taken daily for Burlington, Vt. or Boston, 



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